Quote:
Originally Posted by 42pilot
Quote:
Originally Posted by MattBianco
I am trying to figure out why some go 100k miles and other 10k before getting this clogged. My guess as to what the factors may be:
Fuel quality
Driving pattern (short trips, long trips)
Driving style
Use of aftermarket piggy back chips
What else would cause this component to clog early?
BTW, lots of YouTubes on DYI cleaning of this component (on different BMW engines, but same concept).
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You nailed it. The EGR to keep emissions in check gets clogged due to soot from the exhaust then sudden cooling from the engine coolant system - the fuel is not being burned completely just like gasoline cars running rich and leaving carbon in the exhaust. I removed the EGR from my pickup but that's not an option here. The only options are, high quality fuel, correct air fuel mixture, reduce time idling and turn down the fueling on the chip.
The EGR is not programmed to work full time however, and normally kicks in when the engine is at operating temperature. This is to reduce fouling. I haven't found an additive that improves the condition yet and you'll notice none of the additives mention EGR benefits.
Once you get the CEL stating EGR failure, it has to be replaced since nothing can un-clog it. People who will have better luck are those who drive longer distances so exhaust temps will stay high and soot will burn more completely. City driving, stop and go, will accelerate the problem. Gas engines see something similar with carbon fouling in the combustion chamber and exhaust valves, so no engine is immune to modern emissions controls. |
Okay... so I just been trough the whole replacement deal with the EGR... EGR Valve and cooler replaced along with injector and another pressure valve behind the EGR Cooler... my check engine light is still coming back after not even 100miles... dealer says they need to replace the intake next... Could you not just either unplug the EGR Valve and code it in a way that it won't trigger into the memory or insert a piece of metal after the valve that will "plug" the line and won't let the gases recirculate, go back into the intake as soot it dirty? Or is there another flow sensor afterwards? What is the reason for you saying that it is not an option to remove it? If the valve no longer lets burned fuel gas recirculate... what does that do to the performance, fuel mileage... and will this potentially clog up the cat converter sooner?
I drive a lot of miles at 80k now after 22months... I am not planing on spending 10k every 2 years on repairs... especially where in Texas Diesel are Emission testing exempt....
I'm really trying to find a solution even if that's not optimal and means extra work...