[42pilot]

My car just clicked 5000 miles and since I own the car, I never let the oil change go past 5000 miles, regardless of what the manufacturer recommends. I remember Mercedes stated 15,000 was ok until engines failed and they pulled the recommendation back to 12 or 13,000 miles. I've built too many engines and seen the problems with extended change intervals. Anyway, this post is not to debate when you change your oil - it's your car, do what you think it best. This post is to show you how to do it, if you have an interest to do so.

The oil change is the easiest I have ever done. You need:

1. ramps to drive the front of the car up on
2. 17 mm socket to remove and tighten the drain plug
3. 27 mm socket to remove the filter cap
4. 7 quarts (or 6.5L) of approved diesel oil (I used the recommended Castrol oil from the dealer)
5. an oil filter

Drive the car to warm the oil. This helps drain the oil quicker and mixes any contaminants for easy removal. Now drive the car up on the ramp and set the parking brake. This gives a lot of room for you to work safely.

Open the hood of the car and remove the plastic engine cover and locate the oil filter cap (see the first pic below). Using the 27 mm socket, unscrew the cap but do not remove. You want the oil in the filter to drain into the pan.

Now, get under the car and find the oil drain plug cover (the next pic). Using your fingernail, if you like, squeeze the door spring and let the door open and drop down. I removed it to keep it safe.

Get a container that can hold at least 10 quarts of oil and place it under the oil drain plug (shown in the next pic). Using your 17mm socket, remove the drain plug and let the oil drain into container. Clean the drain plug looking for metal as the plug is magnetized. It should be clean with a possible layer of very fine metal, the consistency of paint clay (super-fine, and you should not feel any particles). Make sure all the oil is drained.

In the oil filter box will be the filter, an o-ring for the filter cap and a copper crush washer that will be used when replacing the drain plug (see next pic). A new washer ensures a good seal. Place the copper washer on the plug and reinstall, and torque to 12 ft lbs, or just very snug if you don't have a torque wrench. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.

In the engine compartment, remove the filter cap that you loosened earlier. The filter is press-fit into the cap (see next pic). Notice the anti-drain plug built into the filter and where it fits into the engine (see next pic). You will see a silver colored circle in the top right of the filter cavity - this is where the anti-drain plug fits when you reinstall. This keeps oil from draining when you turn off the car, so oil will be ready to circulate when you start the car.

Remove the filter from the cap by pulling it straight out, using a bit of muscle and slight twisting. I like to clean the inside of the cap, but that's up to you. When cleaned, I reinstall the new filter in the cap. Note the difference in color of the filter after only 5000 miles (see next pic of filters). In the filter's box, you will find a new o-ring for the cap. Remove the old o-ring and replace it with the new o-ring. For good measure, coat the new o-ring with a light layer of oil for proper sealing (see the next pic showing the o-ring being removed, over-lapping the threads).

Install the filter cap back into the engine, keeping the anti-drain plug lined up with the hole shown in the earlier pic. It's easy and will slip into place. Now, screw the filter cap back on and tighten just snug enough to stay in place. You will need to overcome the resistance of the new o-ring.

Now place a funnel (if you like) in the oil filler neck (next pic). Pour the new oil into the funnel (see next pic), using 6.5 liters, or roughly 7 quarts. I used all 7 quarts. Make sure you've replaced the oil drain door and replaced the plastic engine cover, and of course the oil filler cap. Start the engine and check for drips or leaks. It should start immediately and should not have any clicking or tapping noises.

If you think you shouldn't change your oil regularly, take a look at the next pic and see how black and dirty the oil was that was removed from this engine after the first 5000 miles. I have been working on engines since the late 70's and owned diesels for over 20 years, and have to say this is the blackest, dirtiest oil I have ever seen coming from a new, or any mileage engine - gas or diesel. Just wow....

I bought the oil from the dealer for $6.80 per quart and the filter was $22. It is also the smallest filter I have ever seen on a car of this displacement. In addition, it is paper and not fleece like other BMW or Merc motors. Given this is a diesel with high soot levels, I am very surprised there is not more oil (like 8 or 9 quarts for cooling) and the filter is not more "robust" for filtering. I use a 3 micron stainless steel mesh re-usable filter on my 05 Powerstroke and the oil removed from it is a very dark amber. Anyway, my oil change will be easy to remember - every 5,000 miles after the dealer changes it every 10,000 mile increment. When it's out of warranty, I will change to a real diesel oil such as Rotella T-6 synthetic. Even the API spec on the Castrol container is an obsolete spec which kind of cracks me up, knowing BMW endorses the oil. I think it's a sponsorship thing rather than a performance thing...

Good luck.