06-20-2020, 08:47 PM | #1 |
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X5 Hitch & OEM Harness & Coding Installation Retrospective
Emboldened by posts on this forum, I set about installing a hitch onto my 2014 X5 50i this week and wanted to write up a retrospective with some notes that might be useful for others in the future since I found that a lot of the important information for pulling this off is spread across multiple posts and external resources.
Hitch Install: I chose the Draw-Tite 75600 since I didn't really care if the hitch was hidden and liked that it would let me keep the factory impact bar. Bonus points that a visible hitch will give my rear bumper some added protection from bump-n-parkers in NYC. I ordered the hitch from amazon for ~$180 and it came in a few days with some chipped paint from shipping that I spot-painted with rustoleum so it looked uniform. The installation itself was pretty straightforward. I followed a mix of the video instructions at e-trailer (https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hit...ite/75600.html) and the pdf instructions for stealth hitch (https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/21...f?v=1590006347). Notes:
Harness Install: I went with the OEM harness + Control unit. They're part #s 82-71-2-349-500 and 71-60-6-889-589 respectively. Combined these came out to ~$320. There's a lot of mixed opinions out there on using an aftermarket vs OEM harness and I decided to go with OEM because the net cost wasn't that much more than aftermarket and the upside seemed significant (read on for coding impact). For the install itself I used the stealth hitch instructions (linked above) and the BMW official instructions (https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...6&postcount=37). I was very slow and methodical with this. Notes:
Coding: Once the above was all done, I received a hitch electrical warning on my dash. I grabbed a copy of ESYS + psdzData LITE and an ENET cable from amazon. I found a ton of posts sprinkled throughout the forums about various individual lines to code for the hitch but the approach that looked most promising for 100% replicating what the dealer would do was:
Notes:
Impacted ECUs:
I also ran a diff on the specific codings that changed if anyone's interested. Conclusion Everything is now working wonderfully and I feel very confident in the install. Many thanks to all the people who posted about portions of this process since I relied heavily on other posts along the way. Hope this is helpful to others in the future. Last edited by TheMane; 09-21-2020 at 07:36 PM.. |
06-21-2020, 11:47 AM | #2 |
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Good write up. I just put a Curt 13077 on mine which is the same as the DrawTite minus some differences to the bracket to allow the crash bar to re-install. The Curt hitch is much stronger than the OEM crash bar so no worries about leaving it off.
Glad you got it all working. I'll be tackling this project later this year. But for now, all I care about is my bike rack. Haha. What do you plan on towing? |
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06-21-2020, 01:12 PM | #3 |
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Thanks! Yeah the impact bar reinstall hardly seems like a requirement because the hitch crossbars are so much beefier (the drawtite instructions from etrailer actually say to leave it off).
My original goal was also for a bike rack but now that it’s on there with the harness I’ve got family coming after me for all kinds of things (helping my brother in law move some things in a trailer this coming week, towing my dad’s boat). I also want to pick up something like this to expand trunk space for family trips: http://www.walmart.com/ip/MaxxHaul-7...x-20/891865821 Feel free to reach out if you eventually do the harness, this was my first electrical / coding effort with this car and I learned a ton about going from zero to one on the coding front especially. |
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06-22-2020, 08:42 PM | #5 | |
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Drives: 2014 X5 50i M Sport, M3(sold)
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06-24-2020, 09:26 AM | #6 |
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FWIW, the 4th port in the AAG is for the automated/power trailer hitch option available in Europe.
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06-24-2020, 11:16 AM | #8 |
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Thanks for the great write up. I just ordered a Curt hitch and didn't know which route to go on the wiring. I am now going to get the OEM wiring harness. I haven't done any coding but I am going to give it a shot.
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06-24-2020, 12:58 PM | #9 | |
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Maybe it means the bumper was pre-trimmed since I didn't have to do any fascia cutting? |
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07-22-2020, 08:58 PM | #10 | |
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07-27-2020, 08:27 PM | #11 | |
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All I can guess to check is whether the hitch icon appears when you’re in parking mode at all? It should always show up on the bottom of the stacked items to the left of the camera view even if nothing is connected to the electrical port (so you can manually select it for a hitch view even if you’re not using a powered trailer). If not it sounds like maybe the coding didn’t take or wasn’t executed correctly. You might also ask in the bigger coding megathread where some of the experts hang out. I believe there are some other documented approaches to hitch coding in that thread as well. Best of luck! |
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08-02-2020, 10:27 AM | #12 | |
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08-11-2020, 10:43 AM | #13 |
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I recently installed a curt hitch with the OEM wiring harness and control module. I found that the control module that you have listed is no longer being made and has been replace with part#63-11-9-463-372.
Also I am having trouble finding the R2*1B 24 pin socket casing that wires A7 and A8 plug into. Can you help in poiting me to where it is? |
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08-14-2020, 01:18 PM | #14 | |
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09-15-2020, 02:18 PM | #16 | |
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One question though - should you disconnect the battery before doing any of these changes with the OEM harness? If you do disconnect the battery (this is my first newer BMW) when I reconnect will anything not work? Radio/security codes I should locate first, or stuff like that? Thank you Last edited by steveg_nh; 09-15-2020 at 03:14 PM.. |
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09-17-2020, 09:06 AM | #17 | |
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I can't remember if it was from adding the camera or the hitch, but one of the connector housings was missing. It can be sourced from the dealer if you end up down that road. |
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09-21-2020, 01:13 PM | #18 | |
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As far as missing connector housings, as far as I can tell, I have everything I need. I found the Can bus 3 wire connector, and the rest of the wires are to the fuse panel, and the connector behind it. |
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09-21-2020, 07:38 PM | #19 |
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I updated the harness notes in the main post to reflect this but yes I disconnected the battery before doing the harness install— you’re poking around the fusebox, inserting wires, and disconnecting/reconnecting grounds. The last thing you want is to short something in the process while it’s energized.
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09-22-2020, 10:47 AM | #20 |
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Thanks. I did the wiring this morning, with the exception of plugging in the 3 wire CANbus connector, and the trailer module 3 connectors (module is arriving later today). Went super smooth once I saw what was in there. Pretty easy actually, just nerve racking digging into wiring in your new-to-you, and still under warranty, X5.
Thanks for this post, it was fantastic to help with the project. |
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09-25-2020, 09:48 AM | #21 |
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i guess you're lucky... i cant inject cafd in mine...
started a thread here https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1760775 |
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11-15-2020, 07:52 AM | #22 |
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Wiring harness testing
Hello, I have a 2016 F15. Has anyone been able to test the OEM wiring harness and plug successfully with a seven ping or four pin tester? I had the harness installed and coded by an independent shop but when I attach either tester, I see flashing LT, RT and RL. When probing with a meter, I see fluctuating voltage on the four pin. The seven pin tester does show 12v but again the RT, LT and RL are barely flashing more like a flicker. I am wondering if I need a trailer to properly test. Any suggestions? Thanks
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