07-27-2019, 01:33 PM | #45 |
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So, did they upgrade the factory standard battery at some point for a given model year in order to avoid this issue? Or is this still in place regardless of model year?
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09-14-2019, 05:25 PM | #47 | |
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The positive terminal is under the red cap...and the negative terminal is usually a hex bolt (sometimes its a straight pin about the thickness of a pencil). See the two locations circled in the pic below. If you pop your hood open and it looks nothing like this...and you still can't figure it out by looking around the engine bay for something that looks similar (but could possibly be in a slightly different location)...then its time to open your owners manual.
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09-15-2019, 03:38 PM | #48 | ||
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09-16-2019, 02:16 PM | #49 | |
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12-05-2019, 08:12 AM | #50 |
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FYI, here's the latest SIB. Provided to me during the debate I had with dealer about giving us a new battery in the 2016 CPO we purchased.
F15 is off the list for every other oil change battery replacement.
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01-16-2020, 01:12 PM | #52 |
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Since Qsilver7 posted the image above, I thought I would relay a question and recent battery story:
Question: What do you all think about using the engine terminals to test the battery? Story: I accidentally left my radio on overnight in early December, which drained the battery down and the car would not start. After jumping it, I drove to O'Reilly Auto Parts, where they "tested" the battery using the terminals in QSilver7's image. Their tester said one or more cells were damaged, and it needed replacement. Seeking a 2nd opinion, I went to Autozone and they attached their tester directly to the battery (cargo area), saying that the engine terminals will give false readings. When they did this, the tester said the battery is fine. Since then, I've used a voltmeter to directly test the battery (cargo area), and it reliably reads 12.73-12.74. Below is a link to how I tested the battery and alternator: https://itstillruns.com/symptoms-dea...y-7362764.html |
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01-16-2020, 02:20 PM | #53 | |
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If only testing one battery...I can't think of a reason it can't be done directly to the battery's terminals...but ONLY if it is disconnected from the system. (I'm willing to be educated if I'm wrong...but don't just say I'm wrong...tell/explain why. ) And if any charge/charging is going to be done, then it does need to be done at the engine bay terminals so that the IBS (intelligent batttery sensor) is kept "in-the-loop". See the green highlighted text below.
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01-16-2020, 02:38 PM | #54 | ||
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I'm happy I have my trickle charger installed permanently in my X5 by dealer and don't have to worry when I have it parked for long period of time
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01-16-2020, 06:16 PM | #56 | |
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Dealer said computer gave no indication of external draw or lights/radio left on. Just battery failure. They replaced 105 ah battery Car is only 2 yrs old with low miles. Last edited by scootr; 01-16-2020 at 07:48 PM.. |
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01-16-2020, 09:09 PM | #57 | |
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For the record, I am not a diesel - the aux battery is apparently used for my rear seat heaters (and maybe AC?). Given the $250 aux battery cost, not including any labor/coding, I wish I only had one battery! Let my kid(s) freeze! It builds character!!! Re: trickle charge, I do this at the battery terminals - good to confirm that is correct. Last edited by triax37; 01-17-2020 at 09:56 AM.. Reason: ...joke in paragraph 2 |
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01-17-2020, 07:01 AM | #58 |
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Step1: Accept the engineer who designed the charging system for the X5 is an absolute Idiot...all of this hassle for 1 percent boost in mpg
Step2: Purchase a cigarette lighter voltmeter. Step3: Drive around and notice how your voltage is crazy low when just cruising and the alternator only activates when braking/coasting. This is by design...have to boost mpg by 1 percent...who cares if it costs you a new battery every year? Step4: Turn on your headlights and fog lights, watch as your voltage jumps to normal levels, turning on your headlights and fogs overrides the BS charging scheme and forces the alternator to stay on, charging your battery in the process (possibly adding performance too, higher voltage to the coils equals stronger spark which would make a difference at high boost levels....take note M drivers) Step5: Be amazed that your battery is no longer drained on short trips....Yes with the E70 and F15's, you drive with your lights on to charge your battery....Every manufacturer has people who have risen through the ranks by nepotism as their idiocy would have removed them long without it...guess which division they work at in BMW... |
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01-17-2020, 07:24 AM | #59 | |
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Last edited by scootr; 01-17-2020 at 07:41 AM.. |
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01-17-2020, 07:35 AM | #60 | |
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If you have a really Keen sense of hearing, put your fan to almost it's highest setting....notice how it blows a little harder and sounds a little louder when you brake/coast or when you turn on your lights? That's the boost in voltage from the alternator activating. |
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01-17-2020, 07:55 AM | #61 | |
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I wonder if fogs only would work too? I'd hate to shorten the life of $4000 xenon headlights to save a $300 battery. |
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01-17-2020, 10:52 AM | #63 |
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The bulbs are like $100 for two of them.
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01-17-2020, 10:58 AM | #64 | |
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If someone with a voltmeter could test. If that works that would be a great work around. Apologies in advance to all kids/family members that ride in the back during summer Last edited by Sophisticated Redneck; 01-17-2020 at 11:04 AM.. |
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01-17-2020, 11:24 AM | #65 |
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If in doubt about how any car system works, one can always refer to newtis.info.
Otherwise, of course can also read on the forum about how expensive the xenon bulbs are... |
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01-17-2020, 12:00 PM | #66 |
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I got curious and looked up the price, looks like the OE bulbs are now only 184 each and if you go aftermarket, you can get Phillips for 50 each. Rebuild kits for the servo motors are available too for around 60 dollars so it appears the prices for the bulbs have fallen drastically in the past year unless I am missing something.
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