Maintenance @200k miles

[11_335D]

UPDATE: Bilstein B6 Driving impressions

Before I give my quick impression, I believe some background info about my vehicle needs to be stated that will affect the performance and feel between models’ viewers should consider:

2014 X35D (s35i 46xx lbs., 35i 47xx lbs., 35d 49xx lbs., 50i 51xx lbs.)
M-sport with standard suspension
ventilated seats
20in 451 wheels
active steering
full size spare
upgraded stock rear sway bar(22.5mm) to 23mm (found on 3rd row equipped x5's)

Okay so I've always felt my vehicle had a rather plush and floaty/boat like ride and perhaps that was attributed to the blown shock absorbers for some time. I'm not entirely sure how long but all I knew was I didn't have the nicer Adaptive M or DHP suspension. I upgraded the rear sway bar this past summer and it helped the cornering aspect of the vehicle by a good margin. I highly recommend this cheap upgrade (paid $101shipped from a salvage yard) if you are into the handling aspects of your vehicle.

So fast forward today I’ve put roughly 400 miles since the install and I have to say WOW what a difference! The ride is much firmer. Traveling at speeds below 45mph, sharp bumps were a little abrupt. I could tell there was very little suspension travel taking place. I do have 20in oem wheels so my tire side walls won’t absorb like an oem 19in tire size would. Also, I have vented seats which has less cushioning in the seat of your pants compared to my wife’s non-vented seats. I really enjoy the direct energy transfer feel from a dead stop to mild acceleration. There is barely lift up front or squatting in the rear, just squeeze the pedal and the forward motion takes over. Once getting into highway speeds small bumps are dampen well, larger bumps maybe considered harsh. Audible noise inside the cabin from road bumps is more noticeable.

I spend my daily commute (~70 miles) on the highway (~90%) and my biggest complaint were the weight shifts, this thing is nearly flat on highway on/off ramps at >45mph now. Take note I did upgrade the rear swaybar. Around the corners the vehicle handles amazingly well. The vehicle feels nibble and planted. The steering feel is more precise and confidence inspiring now. I would dare say these could be an entry level track suspension as the vehicle no longer feels like an SAV/SUV but more sports car(tuned) like feel. Usually when I wanted a more direct feel, I would put it in sport mode which tightens up the steering ratio (active steering) now I don’t even have to.

Overall, I LIKE the feel of the vehicle now and that may be because this is still very new to me. It did however catch me off guard how much performance I was going to receive from these. There was a time in my life when I was all about performance so it brings back those memories but this my daily driver/family hauler/tow vehicle. I knew I didn’t want to go back to a standard suspension and wanted something close to if not the same performance level of an Adaptive M or DHP but perhaps got a little more? I feel these were valved just a tad on the higher side of my preference. I’m not sure but I’m guessing Bilstein test mule when developing these was the heavier variant 50i with non-vented comfort seats and 19-inch wheels? With nearly 4-5xx lb. difference between the lightest to heaviest x5, I feel these shocks should have been an adjustable dampening shock (like my good old Koni yellows) vs fixed. My recommendation is that anyone looking for comfort or close to OEM ride quality, do not purchase these. Stick with the B4s or stay OEM. These are definitely close to if not an entry level track-oriented shock/strut. If I had to do this all over again, would I still get them? Hard to say right now but I would love to give the B4s a try.

[P1]

One of my rear shocks is leaking. Worth getting both rear replaced with B6s?

[11_335D]

Originally Posted by P1

One of my rear shocks is leaking. Worth getting both rear replaced with B6s?

Have you ever driven a F250/350, 2500/3500 series truck unloaded? That's what it would feel like. I didn't mention it in my post above but I drive a week with just the rears installed and its bad. I mean the rears were so stiff I felt the energy transfer to my spine on bumps. Having the fronts on now balanced the vehicle out. If your rears are leaking I wouldn't doubt the fronts are along the way. My fronts didn't leak until I removed and flipped them upside down.

[P1]

Originally Posted by 11_335D

Have you ever driven a F250/350, 2500/3500 series truck unloaded? That's what it would feel like. I didn't mention it in my post above but I drive a week with just the rears installed and its bad. I mean the rears were so stiff I felt the energy transfer to my spine on bumps. Having the fronts on now balanced the vehicle out. If your rears are leaking I wouldn't doubt the fronts are along the way. My fronts didn't leak until I removed and flipped them upside down.

I have a 3/4 ton Chevy diesel and my X5 certainly doesn't drive like that. Last time I had my X5 in, the tech just mentioned one of my rear shocks was leaking and he suggested I replace them both. The X5 drives perfectly fine, so I've held off. But once the time comes, wondering if I should replace both rear with the Bilstein's.

[11_335D]

Well I have to say I've never driven a Chevy but the new 2022 fords and Rams work trucks I've driven are very stiff unloaded. Anyhow what I was trying to get at is, the ride will not be pleasant but then again take my words with a grain of salt as its just my opinion. Yes I'd do both rather than one strut at a time.

[tlow98]

Thanks for the review @11-335d. This feels pretty in line with most every Bilstein ‘HD’ series strut I’ve ever tested or heard about.

Also, I second your sentiments about the Koni Yellows, and boy do I wish they made them for sport utility vehicles in general and more specifically this platform.

I went with the b4s and have been pretty happy with them in the front this far. They feel perfectly adequate and not much else. Retired the ride @80k miles. The rears aren’t so much fun to install with the rear seats, sadly! So, hopefully those will go in soon enough.

[hritz]

Originally Posted by XxBBVTMxX

My 2014 35d just hit 104k, and it suddenly has some nasty shakes under 1k revs. I have diagnosed everything from injectors, fuel, glow plugs, and even cleaned out all sensors, but all test come back in compliance and since there is no CEL I cannot pinpoint.

I checked the Harmonic Balancer and it is fine as well. I ran tests on my motor mounts via ISTA & pressures and they are activating the vacuum valve and holding pressures yet it is the same feeling so I do believe my mounts are shot.

Gonna go in tomorrow and attempt changing them myself. I have everything I need, I just hope I can do it in less than 8 hours 🙄

Did you ever figure this out? Mine has developed a vibration at idle but goes away as soon as you give it some throttle.

[XxBBVTMxX]

Originally Posted by hritz

Did you ever figure this out? Mine has developed a vibration at idle but goes away as soon as you give it some throttle.

I do believe it's my engine mounts.

Changed out the passenger side, but the drivers side came broken. Just received a replacement and doing it tomorrow. The vibration was reduced a lot. Hoping when the drivers side is done, it's gone.

If not, my next to hit is the O2 Sensor before the DPF. It's the only thing I have not truly checked.

[XxBBVTMxX]

Motor mount is in. Vehicle is smooth 🙌🏽

[M_Bimmer]

Originally Posted by Keithwand

I’m catching up. 2016 with 45k miles as of last night.

Love this thread....but will never catch up....9,533 miles as of yesterday on my 01/2018....and it took me 15 years to get to 145,000 on my last X5, E53.....

[jomoj]

congrats on 200k!!

[M302_imola]

OP, have you had any clunking coming from the rear? I'm at 120K miles. I've already upgraded the front control arms so it appears my rears are going bad. Haven't seen much on here about rear control arms.

[Clifton]

Originally Posted by M302_imola

OP, have you had any clunking coming from the rear?

Assume you’ve ruled out the sway bar end links?

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by M302_imola

OP, have you had any clunking coming from the rear? I'm at 120K miles. I've already upgraded the front control arms so it appears my rears are going bad. Haven't seen much on here about rear control arms.

There’s an FCP Euro DIY video on this repair. Apparently, pretty common on these platforms.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by XxBBVTMxX

I do believe it's my engine mounts.

Changed out the passenger side, but the drivers side came broken. Just received a replacement and doing it tomorrow. The vibration was reduced a lot. Hoping when the drivers side is done, it's gone.

If not, my next to hit is the O2 Sensor before the DPF. It's the only thing I have not truly checked.

My mounts gave out around 86k miles. Was the first repair I’ve paid to do in 15 years. With the x-drive just didn’t strike me as much fun. I didn’t have a way to support the engine that I trusted.

Car was much smoother after.

[M302_imola]

Originally Posted by Clifton

Assume you’ve ruled out the sway bar end links?

No sir, I have not ruled out sway bar links. That's something I'll investigate as well. It just started occurring, and is only heard at very slow speeds. Much like the behavior of my front control arms when they went bad.

Any tale tale signs that would differentiate swar bar end links from rear trailer arms?

There's rough pavement at the entrance to the parking garage at work, and that's where I hear it the most pronounced. Clunking, almost as if the strut is toast, but I did coilovers last year so I'm pretty sure it's not a strut. Plus at highway speeds when I run over deviations in the road I don't hear or feel it. So to me that rules out a strut.

Also to note, I'm getting more vibration than usual at highway speeds (~70mph).

[M302_imola]

Originally Posted by tlow98

My mounts gave out around 86k miles. Was the first repair I’ve paid to do in 15 years. With the x-drive just didn’t strike me as much fun. I didn’t have a way to support the engine that I trusted.

Car was much smoother after.

What were the indicators your mounts were bad?

[Clifton]

Originally Posted by M302_imola

Any tale tale signs that would differentiate swar bar end links from rear trailer arms?

When sway bar links go bad they can make clunking/tapping sounds and are a common culprit of suspension noises. They are a cheap easy replacement too. Worth a shot.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by M302_imola

What were the indicators your mounts were bad?

Engine vibrations at idle. It was a pretty stark contrast. The mounts were partially collapsed upon removal. Felt normal whole driving. Engine was not banging around or anything like that.

Idle in gear was most noticeable. In my experience on fresh mounts there are no vibrations with the n55. When the mounts go it’s a different story.