DIY - Transfer Case Service

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by shimmy23

i have bimmerlink. i didn't see a response in here if that all will work to reset VTG. i'll do some searching

Nope, you will need something else.

[F15_SGM]

Originally Posted by Djhumvee

Did that happen to you personally? Just seems odd that it gets calibrated when its brand new with new fluid, the fluid gets old and somehow going back to new fluid again throws it off?

Yes, After changing mine it was fine until soon after a couple thousand miles it started acting up. I than used ista + to calibrate it and after that it fixed it.

[Djhumvee]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Bc it learns as it goes and adjusts to old fluid. You need to tell it when a big change happens so it can start the learning process again. This is the correct way.

Will it work otherwise? Maybe. But $140 tool to save a $4k part seems prudent.

ok I didn't realize it learned and adjusted as time goes on, makes sense now..

[beattiecj]

Did this yesterday about an hour or less pretty straightforward, write up was very good.

Tools:
- 14mm drain plug wrench from FCP euro forget Part#
- 200ml fluid extractor from amazon
- 1L of BMW fluid as described
- New Drain plug
- Foxwell NT530 scanner for VTG reset

Removed ~500ml and refilled the same amount and then used the VTG reset for a .44 degree re-calibration to 9.69 degrees.

Original fluid looked pretty good for 65k miles, probably could have given it a bit more time, but more for peace of mind.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by beattiecj

Did this yesterday about an hour or less pretty straightforward, write up was very good.

Tools:
- 14mm drain plug wrench from FCP euro forget Part#
- 200ml fluid extractor from amazon
- 1L of BMW fluid as described
- New Drain plug
- Foxwell NT530 scanner for VTG reset

Removed ~500ml and refilled the same amount and then used the VTG reset for a .44 degree re-calibration to 9.69 degrees.

Original fluid looked pretty good for 65k miles, probably could have given it a bit more time, but more for peace of mind.

Good to hear about the mileage. Mine was at 72k miles and looked pretty rough. Interesting. For Meg next round I’m going to do it at 30k and see if that’s too early

[Clifton]

Originally Posted by tlow98

For Meg next round I’m going to do it at 30k and see if that’s too early

As mentioned at the start of the tread, I changed mine at 33K from new (see pics). The interval seemed early and my fluid didn't look too bad; about like cola in color. What ultimately pushed me to change the fluid was a set of new tires and learning the small volume of oil in the Xfer case. I also had symptoms of the dreaded "stutter" with any type of road jolt, e.g., bridge expansion joints. With the install of new tires, new fluid, and re-calibration, the frequency of stutters reduced.

Since the case only holds oil equal to that of small lawnmower, I'll most likely stick with short 30K-36K intervals mainly to hedge my bets. It also aligns well with my current tire replacement.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by Clifton

As mentioned at the start of the tread, I changed mine at 33K from new (see pics). The interval seemed early and my fluid didn't look too bad; about like cola in color. What ultimately pushed me to change the fluid was a set of new tires and learning the small volume of oil in the Xfer case. I also had symptoms of the dreaded "stutter" with any type of road jolt, e.g., bridge expansion joints. With the install of new tires, new fluid, and re-calibration, the frequency of stutters reduced.

Since the case only holds oil equal to that of small lawnmower, I'll most likely stick with short 30K-36K intervals mainly to hedge my bets. It also aligns well with my current tire replacement.

Completely agree on the volume of the fluid - it's practically nothing.

BTW, thanks for creating this thread. You gave me the initial push to DIY the TC, and your directions were spot on - much appreciated Clifton.

[caio123]

Does Foxwell 630 Plus can calibrate the transfer case ? Thanks.

[BMW440I_FL]

A big Thank You to Clifton for the very detailed post on this topic, it was extremely helpful and much appreciated!!

I changed my TC fluid yesterday on my 2017 X5 50i which is currently at 70K.

My question is after I did the recalibration with the Foxwell NT530 scanner, it said it said a calibration value after the calibration is 11.67 and has been stored. It also said a Difference compared to the previous calibrate value is 0.00 degrees. Does that seem odd ??

I read also it could take up to 125 miles for new fluid to saturate into internal components and should continually improve.

All seems good, no weird light on dash etc.

Vehicle feels much smoother but still a slight presence of shudder or skipping feeling still after 3100 RPMs. More so when moving in 5 or 6 gear and push down on throttle as speed. Mf rpm climb. I will continue to monitor as I put more miles on it.

Thanks again for the great post and feedback, extremely helpful!!

[kdad]

Curious what Clifton manual suggests in the instructions? Fluid change without removing the holder bracket that blocks the fill/drain hole and snake an extraction tube in?
Or does it suggest the more elaborate "correct" method to remove the bracket?

Thanks!

[Clifton]

Originally Posted by BMW440I_FL

My question is after I did the recalibration with the Foxwell NT530 scanner, it said it said a calibration value after the calibration is 11.67 and has been stored. It also said a Difference compared to the previous calibrate value is 0.00 degrees. Does that seem odd ??

I would think that 0.00 degrees just means no adjustment was needed.

Originally Posted by BMW440I_FL

Vehicle feels much smoother but still a slight presence of shudder or skipping feeling still after 3100 RPMs. More so when moving in 5 or 6 gear and push down on throttle as speed. Mf rpm climb. I will continue to monitor as I put more miles on it.

The shudder on mine got better after the fluid change and recalibration, but there are cases where it still happens, i.e., expansion joints on bridges or pavement transitions. My workaround has been a slight lift on the gas pedal just before the jolt then I don't get a shudder.

[BMW440I_FL]

I didn’t remove the bracket and it really was not bad at all to be honest. I purchased the wrench with the hex end already attached and it was pretty easy to loosen and remove drain plug. Did this all while laying on ground as well, but truck was on jack stands supported accordingly. Thanks !

[Clifton]

Originally Posted by kdad

Curious what Clifton manual suggests in the instructions? Fluid change without removing the holder bracket that blocks the fill/drain hole and snake an extraction tube in?
Or does it suggest the more elaborate "correct" method to remove the bracket?

Thanks!

Removing the bracket provides more room for removing the fill bolt - that's about it. More work to save work didn't make sense to me.

As far as snaking the extraction tube, removing the cross member doesn't add much value or additional angle of attack in my opinion. The main challenge is getting the suction tube all the way to the bottom of the Xfer case. There are a lot of internals (chain, gears etc) that cause interference getting down to the very bottom where the fluid pools.

[BMW440I_FL]

Thanks Clifton for the added feedback and support, much appreciated!!

I should add that a week ago I was able to get the plug disconnected in the transfer case and then immediately test drove. I immediately saw zero shudder through all different rpm’s and throttle measures. It was amazing how much smoother and cleaner the pulls were. I live in Florida and would love to just leave unplugged except I had a few lights lit up on the dash that I was expecting.

I will continue to monitor the progress as the bulletin I read online says it can take up to 125 miles for the oil to really soak into all the components in the TC.


Only at about 50 miles since changing the fluid on Saturday.

Thanks !!

[CMYACHTIE]

Can anyone tell me if it’s ok to use Liqui Molly hypoid gear oil GL5 (75W140) in both differentials AND transfer case in my 2018 M sport F15 x35i?
Thx

[Tomcat_F15_STL]

Originally Posted by CMYACHTIE

Can anyone tell me if it’s ok to use Liqui Molly hypoid gear oil GL5 (75W140) in both differentials AND transfer case in my 2018 M sport F15 x35i?
Thx

Horrible idea. Use BMW fluids in front diff and & TC, especially. The rear end is just an open gear and will not be super critical.


TC: 1L. BMW p/n 83-22-2-409-710 DTF1
Front Diff: 1L. BMW G2 (75W-85) or Redline p/n 50104 (75W-85) - 60Nm / 44ft.Lb drain/fill plugs
Rear Diff: 1L. BMW G3 (70W-80) or Redline p/n 57904 (75W-90) - 60Nm / 44ft.Lb drain/fill plugs

[CMYACHTIE]

Ok, thx
You sure that’s the right partnumber for the Redline 70W80?
57904 is a W90 oil, there’s only the MTL 75W80 and that’s partnumber 50204?

[Tomcat_F15_STL]

Originally Posted by CMYACHTIE

Ok, thx
You sure that’s the right partnumber for the Redline 70W80?
57904 is a W90 oil, there’s only the MTL 75W80 and that’s partnumber 50204?

These are good numbers to use. As I mentioned, the rear-end is a simple open-gear arrangement... viscosity is not nearly critical.

I made an edit to clarify.

Cheers.

[BMW440I_FL]

Quick update on my 2017 X5 after TC fluid change and recalibration. I have put 700 miles on it since I performed the work and still exactly right at 3100 rpm when pushing hard on it, it does that quick shudder, like it’s loosing traction. I then performed another recalibration with scanner, and still the first time and this second time it says 0.00 difference between last calibration. As the vehicle continues through rpm’s after that shudder at 3100 it really doesn’t do any other shudders after which is great. The truck drives extremely smooth and has zero problems even when turning slow in parking lot etc. as others have described.

Anyone have any other suggestions or tips ? Thanks so much!!

[tlow98]

You try unplugging the transfer case and seeing if the studded is still there?

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by tlow98

You try unplugging the transfer case and seeing if the studded is still there?

Do you know which fuse it actually is? I had a quick look and found 2x that were labeled for the TC.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by Chilled

Do you know which fuse it actually is? I had a quick look and found 2x that were labeled for the TC.

Just unplug the physical connector that is at the transfer case unit. Easy and you know exactly what the result of the change will be.