DIY - Transfer Case Service

[Chilled]

All good, mines fine, just for future reference. Seen people reference pulling fuse, but no mention on which one.

[stocktree]

Originally Posted by BMW440I_FL

Quick update on my 2017 X5 after TC fluid change and recalibration. I have put 700 miles on it since I performed the work and still exactly right at 3100 rpm when pushing hard on it, it does that quick shudder, like it’s loosing traction. I then performed another recalibration with scanner, and still the first time and this second time it says 0.00 difference between last calibration. As the vehicle continues through rpm’s after that shudder at 3100 it really doesn’t do any other shudders after which is great. The truck drives extremely smooth and has zero problems even when turning slow in parking lot etc. as others have described.

Anyone have any other suggestions or tips ? Thanks so much!!

I thought I had transfer case issues. Turned out engine was misfiring under load, in higher gears . Replaced plugs and solved problem. Never threw a code either.

[kdad]

Just did the job the first time. Actual process was quick. May be 40 mins plus clean up. Couple of tips to share so you don't need to buy the "convenient" tools from FCP etc.

I hot glued the hex bit to a 14mm box wrench.

I got a plastic syringe suction thing. Heated the plastic tube to bend it to form a hook to make it easier to reach the bottom of the transfer case. Extracted the expected 600cc (give or take) with ease.

Used ISTAD to recalibrate the VTG. The new value is 10.4 degrees, a change of 0.3 degrees. Anyone know what the numbers mean? Drive great though

The new fluid stinks as hell 😭

[Warnd4]

Originally Posted by scotty339

The OAL of that 14mm 1/2 socket looks too long to me to be able to fit.
Its a tight space. Also, you'll need to bend the wrench or you won't have the clearance required.

I used this tool -
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/20...ug_wrench.html

I simply hammered the 14mm allen out of a 1/2 allen socket.
Works great. BTW fow all interested, follow this procedure exactly and you will enjoy good results; My 2014 X5 35d is running smoothe as a baby's @ass.

[Warnd4]

Originally Posted by scotty339

The OAL of that 14mm 1/2 socket looks too long to me to be able to fit.
Its a tight space. Also, you'll need to bend the wrench or you won't have the clearance required.

I used this tool -
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/20...ug_wrench.html

I simply used my vise to press the 14mm allen out of a 1/2 allen socket.
Works great. BTW fow all interested, follow this procedure exactly and you will enjoy good results; My 2014 X5 35d is running smoothe as a baby's @ass !!

[JamesInSJ]

Originally Posted by Warnd4

I simply hammered the 14mm allen out of a 1/2 allen socket.
Works great. BTW fow all interested, follow this procedure exactly and you will enjoy good results; My 2014 X5 35d is running smoothe as a baby's @ass.

This worked perfectly for me: https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...9&postcount=11

I originally bought a large 14mm allen I was going to cut instead of pressing one out of a 14mm, but the clearance was fine for my method I proposed above and then actually did on my car.

[x5d4me]

Does the rear diff use same oil? Similar process ?
I found these for the TC but not sure which you guys suggest

[kdad]

For the front and rear diffs I think any 75w90 gl5 compatible oil would be fine

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by x5d4me

Does the rear diff use same oil? Similar process ?
I found these for the TC but not sure which you guys suggest

Plenty of threads on the differential. This is the transfer case. Let’s not muddy the waters and please stay on topic.

[CMYACHTIE]

Originally Posted by JamesInSJ

This worked perfectly for me: https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...9&postcount=11

I originally bought a large 14mm allen I was going to cut instead of pressing one out of a 14mm, but the clearance was fine for my method I proposed above and then actually did on my car.

Knowing am late to this party, but after playing with several suggestions here of modding my existing tools found this on Amazon and used it and works best for me for only $8.95


CTA Tools 1136 Transmission Fill Plug Socket, 14MM Stubby - Compatible with Mercedes Benz/Jeep

[underp2]

Just to clarify...
Are you siphoning the fluid out?
Or using the fluid transfer pump to pump/suck the fluid out?
Or is the fluid transfer pump only used for refilling?

Thanks.

[Clifton]

Originally Posted by underp2

Just to clarify...
Are you siphoning the fluid out?
Or using the fluid transfer pump to pump/suck the fluid out?
Or is the fluid transfer pump only used for refilling?

Thanks.

I used an extraction pump to suck out the old fluid. It requires fiddling as you need to keep repositioning your hose get to the lowest parts of the case. There are internals that block you after you enter the fill plug.

The new fluid was slowly pumped into the fill as the case doesn't hold a lot of fluid.

[1004ron]

Originally Posted by Clifton

Lessons Learned:
1. Definitely an DIY job and difficulty drops to a 2 after you've done it once
2. 33K miles may have been early for a fluid change (see photo #5)
3. A candy cane shaped siphon would have reduced the hunt and seek siphon method
4. A ratcheting/14mm Hex combo (homemade) would have saved time threading drain bolt

I really appreciate your DIY - I used it yesterday.

I made the shepherds hook/candy cane with a wire coat hanger inside some silicone tubing, used with my BMW oil extractor.

I highly recommend the 14mm stubby with a 19mm ratcheting wrench.
CTA BMW - Transmission Fill Plug Socket - 14MM Stubby
Amazon 1136 - Jeep / BMW - Transmission Fill Plug Socket - 14MM Stubby

[tlow98]

Good call on the coat hanger inside the tube! Love that idea. Thanks for posting

[PGH_X5]

Just completed today. Great tips in this thread. That stubby hex makes things very easy and also very handy for the front diff fill plug.

I used a piece of flexible steel from a utility marking flag (very thin) stuffed inside the small diameter plastic tube from my fluid extractor to make the candy cane. I was able to get 0.7L in on the fill.

Used ISTA to recalibrate VGT and it came back -16.1 degree difference which is super high vs what I've seen others post. Never had any issues before and drives fine now so not sure what's up with that.

[No_Regerts]

So glad I found this. I've having the same issues and it was diagnosed by my local BMW shop. They gave me a $6000+ quote to replace the TC! OMG! And $700 to replace the fluid! I'm going to buy all the things listed here and do this within the next few days.

[No_Regerts]

Update: My wife's 2015 X5 50i XDRIVE with 105K mileage, starting doing the hesitation/slippage thing that many have reported, especially noticeable when accelerating up the hill leading to our driveway, or when noodling around town under 45mph. Anyway took it to our local BMW shop (not the dealership) that we have been using for normal maintenance on both our vehicles (mine is a 2013 328i XDRIVE) to diagnose. They confirmed it was an issue with the transfer case and quoted $6500 for a new transfer case and $3600 for a used one with a 1 year warranty. Needless to say, we were shocked and disheartened. I started googling and found this page (and another page on YouTube where the guy actually performs the procedure) and saw that many reported that it fixed the problem. So, not being very mechanically inclined, I called a different Euro shop and asked for a quote on a transfer case fluid change. $700.00!!!! So I watched the YouTube procedure a few more times and decided that it would be worth a shot to DIY. Keep in mind I am NOT a mechanic, and I'm probably the least dexterous person you'd ever meet.

Here's all the things I used/needed:
Foxwell NT530 scanner - $180 directly from their website
Redline 50604 70/75W GL-4 transfer case fluid - $23 1QT is more than enough - Amazon
Grip Clip Transfer Pump w1156 - $12 on Amazon
Lubrimatic 55-001 4CC Fluid Pump for quart sized bottles $9 on Amazon
CTA Tools 1136 Transmission Fill Plug Socket, 14mm Stubby - $12 on Amazon
I did not use the ratcheting type wrench as pictured in a previous post but I WILL BUY AND USE ONE IN THE FUTURE. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. I just used a regular 19" closed end wrench with the CTA Stubby and it was more of a hassle than it should have been due to the lack of space.
New drain plug. about $10 from Rock Auto. I used it since I bought it, but I feel it's unnecessary. The old one looked fine (identical to the new one).

Also, recommend a drain pan (a clean one so that you can measure how much fluid extracted)
A Shop light for obvious reasons
At least one 3-ton hydraulic jack (two would be better, one for the front and one for the back)
4 3-ton jack stands
Shop rags to wipe down the fluid from the area (it's a messy job)

Procedure:
Jack up the front and back using the jack, place jack stands under and release jack so car is resting on jack stands. Make sure you know where to place the jacks while jacking and where to place the jack stands. I would try to get two jacks and do both a little at a time if you can. Make sure it's pretty level when resting on jack stands.

Crawl under locate and remove the old drain plug using the CTA stubby and your wrench. I had to use my foot to break it, since it was so tight. Some fluid will come out so place the drain pan to catch it.

Using the Grip Clip transfer pump, bend the tubing into a hook shape and force it in to the drain plug hole. Make sure you get about 4" or so into the transfer case. Then extract the fluid out. I used a clean glass Cafe Bustelo instant coffee container so I could see how much I took out. Appropriately, it was a dark coffee color and smelled nasty, like you'd expect. I was able to extract approximately 600ml. I probably could have got a bit more but it started to not be worth the effort.

Then, using the Lubrimatic 55-001 4CC fluid pump placed directly into the opened bottle of Redline transfer case fluid, I inserted the tube of the pump in the transfer case and slowly started pumping fluid in, until it started leaking out.

This was the hardest part. I grabbed the new drain plug and tried to get it started in the hole by hand. Due to the lack of space this was very tricky. It wasn't until I found the best position, with palm facing towards the front of the vehicle that I was able to use my oil-soaked fingers to slowly turn the new drain plug and get it started. Yes, the new fluid was dripping out onto my hand and arm while this was happening.

Then, and this is where the ratcheting-style wrench would have been a savior (lesson learned, I will buy one for next time), I slowly inserted the CTA stubby into the new drain plug and millimeter by millimeter, was able to tighten it up. Then I gave it a good tight turn at the end and wiped everything down so I could spot any leaks. None.

I was feeling pretty joyous at this point. The hard part was done. So I hooked up the Foxwell scanner and performed the transfer case recalibration. I had rehearsed the steps previously on my car just so I knew what to do. Leave the car off, plug the scanner in, let it identify the VIN automatically, then under BMW--> Service--> Drive Train you will see the function to recalibrate. Just step through that with the F3, F2 buttons following the prompts and it will complete in a few minutes.

I fired up the willing engine, responding with a roar. My wife hopped in and rode shotgun as we backed the car out of the garage slowly, driving it gingerly for the first couple miles. During this test drive, we looked at each other several times, not knowing what to expect. It is 10 year-old BMW after all. Then we stopped at the local gas station and filled it up then I let the wifey drive it home. It's her car and she knows it better than I do. We still were uncertain at this point, but as we approached the road that swerves up the hill to our driveway, the beast was perfect. The hesitation was gone. I FIXED IT IN UNDER AN HOUR and with less than $300 worth of parts/tools/supplies! OMG WHAT A GREAT DAY!!!!

Thanks to everyone on this thread!

[stocktree]

That's great to hear!

[1004ron]

Originally Posted by No_Regerts

Redline 50604 70/75W GL-4 transfer case fluid - $23 1QT is more than enough - Amazon

Very well done !!!! Kudos to you.

I'm an engineer in the power generating industry, do all the wrenching on my vehicles, and still find these forums very helpful.

No doubt you'll be doing more of your own maintenance.

I seldom use OEM fluids, but did for my transfer case and transmission this time - what gave you the confidence to use Redline for the transfer case? - it's a top brand.

We haven't had my wife's 2015 X5 long - I've just got it all up to date on maintenance.

[No_Regerts]

Originally Posted by 1004ron

I seldom use OEM fluids, but did for my transfer case and transmission this time - what gave you the confidence to use Redline for the transfer case? - it's a top brand.
.

As far why I chose Redline? I just did a lot of research and googling and many people reported that it was good stuff. Worked for me too. I plan on changing the fluid again after 1000 miles just to ensure things work well for the foreseeable future.

[1004ron]

Originally Posted by No_Regerts

As far why I chose Redline? I just did a lot of research and googling and many people reported that it was good stuff. Worked for me too. I plan on changing the fluid again after 1000 miles just to insure things work well for the foreseeable future.

I see Redline's web site lists that for our transfer cases, and that's enough to give me confidence that it's good for the task.

I've got enough OEM fluid for one more change and then might look at Redline for future changes.

https://www.redlineoil.com/find-products-for-my-vehicle

[solvinod]

I was getting a jerking/tugging upon acceleration and I changed out the transfer case fluid which was black and this seems to have resolved the issue. This should be a routine maintenance procedure, but BMW does not mention this at all.