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      01-14-2015, 12:34 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by omgboost View Post
Do you have launch control on your car?
How is the question for?
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      01-14-2015, 01:30 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by ROBNYC View Post
How many miles you spend on a setting before changing?
About a week (about 150 miles) if I am testing. Usually, a CEL will show itself within the first couple days if I drive into town (highway, city/stop n go).
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      01-14-2015, 01:39 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by CC23 View Post
Can you give us a comparison from your other settings.

S1 = 2
S2 = E

and other settings you have tried compared to S1 = 3 S2 = E.

Is S1 setting changing the fuel delivery timing which increases torque?

How far to push the S1 setting and not worry about any major damage?
I have tried over 20 different settings so far. I like settings that provide throttle response and mid-range torque improvement because that's where I spend most of the time driving - light city driving.

S1 = torque, which is fuel timing. Adjusting this setting, you should feel improved throttle response and low to mid-range pull. Tripping a CEL consistently with this setting could damage your engine over time. If the CEL trips, install the dummy plug, clear the CEL, reinstall the chip and back off the setting by one.

S2 = power, which is the amount of fuel being delivered to the cylinder. Tripping a CEL consistently with this setting could be high EGT's or emissions. It would be tough to damage an engine here with this tuner.

Since I am E3 now, my next step will be F3. I will be adding fuel.
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      01-14-2015, 01:59 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by 42pilot View Post
I have tried over 20 different settings so far. I like settings that provide throttle response and mid-range torque improvement because that's where I spend most of the time driving - light city driving.

S1 = torque, which is fuel timing. Adjusting this setting, you should feel improved throttle response and low to mid-range pull. Tripping a CEL consistently with this setting could damage your engine over time. If the CEL trips, install the dummy plug, clear the CEL, reinstall the chip and back off the setting by one.

S2 = power, which is the amount of fuel being delivered to the cylinder. Tripping a CEL consistently with this setting could be high EGT's or emissions. It would be tough to damage an engine here with this tuner.

Since I am E3 now, my next step will be F3. I will be adding fuel.
That's great, the injection system should no doubt be able to manage the extra fuel preussure
. Keep us posted! do you now if the 35d na spec has the DP filter? We have it in the EU spec 30d, thinking about removing it...maybe.. or mayby highflo mid cats.
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      01-14-2015, 05:05 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by paicapo View Post
That's great, the injection system should no doubt be able to manage the extra fuel preussure
. Keep us posted! do you now if the 35d na spec has the DP filter? We have it in the EU spec 30d, thinking about removing it...maybe.. or mayby highflo mid cats.
I been checking out the difference in the hardware of the fuel system and fuel delivery between the M50D and the 30D and there are none, both cars have the same parts witch indicates that you have rather good margin to play whitout breaking something in regards of fuel delivery whit S2 setting on racechip.

42pilot Do you think it will require any programing to the ECU if you just put in the M-performance air cooler in the car?
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      01-14-2015, 09:07 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paicapo View Post
I been checking out the difference in the hardware of the fuel system and fuel delivery between the M50D and the 30D and there are none, both cars have the same parts witch indicates that you have rather good margin to play whitout breaking something in regards of fuel delivery whit S2 setting on racechip.

42pilot Do you think it will require any programing to the ECU if you just put in the M-performance air cooler in the car?
You should look a little deeper than just the fuel delivery system if you want to compare engines and feel comfortable about safety margins.

M motors in the gas version are very different. You'll find bigger injectors, different exhaust, different turbo(s), cams, intakes and so on. I have no idea about the M diesel.

To be clear, I don't think the RC will damage the engine because the safety measures built into the BMW software. But that is my opinion based on owning this car for less than a year and speaking with RC in the US and Germany. Not very comprehensive. In any event, early timing of fuel injectors (S1) will produce higher compression chamber pressures and temperatures. If you use poor fuel (low cetane), you can also burn a hole in a piston, but this is an extreme example.

As for the "air cooler", do you mean intercooler? If you do, and as long as it's a bolt-in replacement, I don't think you need to do anything different. If it has a larger capacity (air volume), you might notice a bit of lag off idle as the turbo fills the IC then into the engine.
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      01-15-2015, 07:20 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by paicapo View Post
How is the question for?
Sorry, I wanted to know from the people who are providing times. I have the E70 35i and don't have launch control so I'm a little hestitant with the brake boosting.

Thanks.
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      01-15-2015, 08:19 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paicapo View Post
That's great, the injection system should no doubt be able to manage the extra fuel preussure
. Keep us posted! do you now if the 35d na spec has the DP filter? We have it in the EU spec 30d, thinking about removing it...maybe.. or mayby highflo mid cats.
Sorry, no I don't.
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      01-15-2015, 10:11 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by omgboost View Post
Sorry, I wanted to know from the people who are providing times. I have the E70 35i and don't have launch control so I'm a little hestitant with the brake boosting.

Thanks.
I used launch control in all the videos in the tread
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      01-15-2015, 10:13 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paicapo View Post
I used launch control in all the videos in the tread
How do you use LC on our cars?
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      01-15-2015, 10:28 AM   #55
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Originally Posted by greentrbo95gst View Post
How do you use LC on our cars?
You put the shifter in manual mode, turn of traction, press the brake very hard, apply full throttle on gas pedal, wait for the launch control message in the info screen in the cluster to say you’re ready to take off, let go of brake and away you go
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      01-15-2015, 01:44 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paicapo View Post
Will do. Yes I have the 30d
the car is fine but I haven't had the opportunity to really rew it out but so far it's holding up good and the power gain is noticeable. We got a guy here that tuned his 530d to about 380 hp whit stock turbo, modified ecu, cat delete, downpipe etc and that car held up great so I think the worst thing that can happen is that I get error code for exhaust or maybe a limp mode code witch is a easy fix. How is you E3 setting holding up?
An update please on the E/4 setting? have you tried to push it yet, higher speeds, or RPMS?
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      01-15-2015, 04:17 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by gatordent View Post
An update please on the E/4 setting? have you tried to push it yet, higher speeds, or RPMS?
Worked it quite a bit in sport+ the last two days on fairly dry roads and no problem at all, running the setting 6 days tomorrow. the power gain is very noticeable in both the lower and higher power band vs the E/2 setting id would say that whit just a couple of liters of gas in the thank and no exes weight in the trunk and i wouldn’t be surprised if it ran 0-60 in 5 sec or close
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      01-15-2015, 07:03 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paicapo View Post
gave it a shot got some exes wheigt out of the car witch I had last time, about 70-80 kg. I made to runs whit racechip and when i was upluging the connectors and stuff to try whitout it started snowing so id hade to abbort, its preety cold here but im gonna try to do a run if it dries upp but from to looks of things it could be a while, its to bad i realy wanted to be able to compare the engien whitout the tune, but the diesel whit raceship seems to love colder temps, hade about -9 celsius and the car hauld ass!
did 0-60 in 5,4 sec and 0-100 in 5,8 sec! thats impressive underated or not in my last run in october the outside temp was about +10 celsius
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paicapo View Post
Worked it quite a bit in sport+ the last two days on fairly dry roads and no problem at all, running the setting 6 days tomorrow. the power gain is very noticeable in both the lower and higher power band vs the E/2 setting id would say that whit just a couple of liters of gas in the thank and no exes weight in the trunk and i wouldn’t be surprised if it ran 0-60 in 5 sec or close
Impressive! Wow!
HP/TQ has increased with E/4 ?
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      01-15-2015, 07:14 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBNYC View Post
Impressive! Wow!
HP/TQ has increased with E/4 ?
Yes it has definitely increased whit E/4.
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      01-15-2015, 08:06 PM   #60
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I reduced mine from E3 to E2 today. After driving it aggressively today, I noticed it was running a bit warm on a 38 degree day. When I got home, the smell of something burnt filled the garage - exactly like the day I brought it home with 20 miles on it. The engine, when running up the RPM, around 3500, would sound like a small metal rattle was letting loose for just a moment. In a gas motor, you shut it down quickly as this is detonation (knocking).

I backed the E3 down to E2 and the rattling went away and the coolant temp dropped a bit, and there is no more smell - which I think was the catalytic converter really heating up. For my engine, I will not go higher than 2.
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      01-15-2015, 09:14 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by 42pilot View Post
I reduced mine from E3 to E2 today. After driving it aggressively today, I noticed it was running a bit warm on a 38 degree day. When I got home, the smell of something burnt filled the garage - exactly like the day I brought it home with 20 miles on it. The engine, when running up the RPM, around 3500, would sound like a small metal rattle was letting loose for just a moment. In a gas motor, you shut it down quickly as this is detonation (knocking).

I backed the E3 down to E2 and the rattling went away and the coolant temp dropped a bit, and there is no more smell - which I think was the catalytic converter really heating up. For my engine, I will not go higher than 2.
Better safe then sorry! what was your oiltemp?
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      01-15-2015, 09:47 PM   #62
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Better safe then sorry! what was your oiltemp?
236 was highest which was in steady traffic. I've not seen above 220 ever, which is also, almost average. I could understand the higher temp if in the throttle a lot and warmer day.
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      01-16-2015, 05:42 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 42pilot
Quote:
Originally Posted by paicapo View Post
Better safe then sorry! what was your oiltemp?
236 was highest which was in steady traffic. I've not seen above 220 ever, which is also, almost average. I could understand the higher temp if in the throttle a lot and warmer day.
Have you tried increasing S2 to F? Your temp increase may have been from running "too lean of peak"? Please excuse the aviation terminology
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      01-24-2015, 04:17 PM   #64
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Dash Command and Torque Pro have good monitoring of temps of all types of components in the car. You guys been noticing any change when increase or decreasing?
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      01-24-2015, 06:00 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gatordent View Post
Have you tried increasing S2 to F? Your temp increase may have been from running "too lean of peak"? Please excuse the aviation terminology
Diesels don't work that way. If you run less fuel (or mixture in pilot speak), you just get less power. The air fuel ratio can go to 40:1. If you run too rich, your EGT and cylinder head temps take off and things start melting. Yep, I'm a pilot too.
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      01-24-2015, 10:43 PM   #66
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I am all in on 03 based upon your rec. Thanks again for all of the info.
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