Painting Exhaust Tips - Arch Nemesis Mod

[classic_erik]

Apologies for the new thread. I felt my pain and suffering warranted a new analysis on where things can go wrong. I want your feedback...

Spent Saturday re-doing my exhaust tips for the 3rd time in 1 year. I had spent countless hours researching the perfect prep work and recipe for success. I am truly anal about any mod and felt I finally did it right until my project folded like a lawn chair. For such a trivial task I can't fathom what I am doing wrong...I honestly feel like less of a man.

1) After proper cleaning, sanded with 320 grit

2) Masked up the bumper with newspaper and painters tape (this is always the most labor-some part)

3) Applied primer, paint and clear coat. Let the primer dry 2 hours before moving forward with the paint and clear coat. All applications of paint were completed 10 minutes apart.
a) 2 coats of VHT Self-Etching Primer
b) 4 coats of VHT Black Engine Enamel
c) 3 coats of VHT Clear Coat

4) Let dry for 24 hours - Boom! Everything was perfect. Now on to the recommended curing process for "on-vehicle". I can't decide if this was done too soon, executed poorly or completely unnecessary.

5) Started curing process as directed by VHT
a) Idle for 10 min
b) Cool for 20 min
c) Idle for 20 min
d) Cool for 20 min
e) Drive for 30 min - this is was literally the last step and where everything fell apart like a Greek tragedy...See last photo for disaster...

My initial thoughts for where this may have gone wrong. Either one of two things happened...

1) Too much condensation remained in the tailpipes after washing the car. During the curing process that may have been executed too soon, moisture built up in the finish that wasn't actually dried (even after 24 hours). When I drove the car in step 5e, I pushed the car thinking I needed to get the tips hot where it essentially steamed the moisture and boiled off the paint...
2) I'm a tool and can't do a damn thing right...

[e1000]

In the last pic did it just flake off or is there a hole there? Wouldn't it just soot over anyway, not sure you really need to fret over it.

Otherwise, I think it looks pretty good! For some reason I also like the look of the matte primer.

[classic_erik]

Originally Posted by e1000

In the last pic did it just flake off or is there a hole there? Wouldn't it just soot over anyway, not sure you really need to fret over it.

Otherwise, I think it looks pretty good! For some reason I also like the look of the matte primer.

The paint literally melted back...

[scootr]

I hate when something like this goes like this

Is it possible that that spot is the low spot and too much material ended up there for too thick a coat of something?
Am I just not seeing it or is the primer not heat resistant rated?

[classic_erik]

Originally Posted by scootr

I hate when something like this goes like this

Is it possible that that spot is the low spot and too much material ended up there for too thick a coat of something?
Am I just not seeing it or is the primer not heat resistant rated?

Yes I suppose that's quite possible. Pretty strange to be honest.

I assume the primer is heat rated since it is a VHT product but I could be wrong.

[Alos]

It might be the paint itself. I used the roll bar and chassis paint as below. It's rated lower temp than yours. Also I did not prime or sand. Been on for over a year without issues through car washes etc.
-this paint is also a primer corrosion and weather resistant which I see on your bottles don't say that. So hopefully that's a quick solution

[r33_RGSport]

I have been using the roll bar & chassis VHT paint.
None of my customers been having issue with them.

But it could also because you didn't let it fully cure and you drive the car already.
When I paint them, I let it sit 24 hours before shipping or installation.

[1norseman]

I'm casting a vote blaming the primer. Workmanship looks top notch otherwise.

Just because it is a VHT product, doesn't mean it is heat rated, ...anymore.
Brand started out with only high heat products, but the primer is part of their "Specialty Products" line that also includes vinyl and fiberglass paint, it's not part of the "High Temperature" line.

Looks to me like primer started melting, likely bubbling, putting pressure on the harder "high temperature" paint, leaving it looking like a chunk of paint broke off.

I would sand down the damaged area, and paint it with the high heat paint only, see it it sticks for a while. (or contact VHT customer support and ask them for advice)
Good luck!

[classic_erik]

Originally Posted by 1norseman

I'm casting a vote blaming the primer. Workmanship looks top notch otherwise.

Just because it is a VHT product, doesn't mean it is heat rated, ...anymore.
Brand started out with only high heat products, but the primer is part of their "Specialty Products" line that also includes vinyl and fiberglass paint, it's not part of the "High Temperature" line.

Looks to me like primer started melting, likely bubbling, putting pressure on the harder "high temperature" paint, leaving it looking like a chunk of paint broke off.

I would sand down the damaged area, and paint it with the high heat paint only, see it it sticks for a while. (or contact VHT customer support and ask them for advice)
Good luck!

I think you're right. I just sanded down most of the bubbled up olive colored area that would appear to be the primer that melted back from the bare spot. It was pretty flaky and sitting on top of the black paint as you can see. I'll repaint the inside only with a few coats of paint and clear coat and see if it holds! Thanks!

[classic_erik]

Ok I'm coming back off the ledge. Doesn't look too bad after all.

[MK2018]

Mod complete, will see how long it's gonna last lol

[classic_erik]

Originally Posted by MK2018

Mod complete, will see how long it's gonna last lol

Looks great!!!!

[djrabbi]

Should have just powder coated them at this point. I learned from my mistakes. Never paint high wear and tear items

[classic_erik]

Originally Posted by djrabbi

Should have just powder coated them at this point. I learned from my mistakes. Never paint high wear and tear items

Wish I could my friend. 50i owner here.

[MK2018]

Originally Posted by djrabbi

Should have just powder coated them at this point. I learned from my mistakes. Never paint high wear and tear items

That would be the best but unfortunately they are not removable.

[menelaos]

Originally Posted by MK2018

That would be the best but unfortunately they are not removable.

You could cut and reweld.
That's how I did my Porsche-like double quad tips.

[MK2018]

Originally Posted by menelaos

You could cut and reweld.
That's how I did my Porsche-like double quad tips.

That's for sure the option but if I cut those I would probably weld back quad exhaust.

[parthpatel1]

Does anyone who has done this DIY have an update on how this is holding up?

[classic_erik]

Originally Posted by parthpatel1

Does anyone who has done this DIY have an update on how this is holding up?

Pro-tip: run!

[parthpatel1]

Originally Posted by classic_erik

Pro-tip: run!

Thanks for the heads up! Powdercoat it is.

Anyone know if minimal driving without the muffler tips on will cause any harm besides the excessive sound?

[classic_erik]

Originally Posted by parthpatel1

Thanks for the heads up! Powdercoat it is.

Anyone know if minimal driving without the muffler tips on will cause any harm besides the excessive sound?

Zero issues driving without the tips.

[classic_erik]

I can not escape this cold dark hell.

Take a look at this gloss black powdercoat finish. Less than 1 year and it's failed.

I spoke with another speciality powdercoat shop in Allston who says they can chemically strip down back to chrome and re-powdercoat in a satin black ceramic that will resist the high temps that most likely caused this issue. I suppose this is the reason you see satin black finishes on tips from most exhaust manufacturers…live and learn.

The saga continues. Will report back…