GFB Diverter Valve

t04d · 06-07-2019, 12:12 PM

Hey Guys,

As some of you may know from my other thread I had to get my turbo rebuilt recently and I decided since it was going to be off of the vehicle I may as well go ahead and upgrade the diverter valve. Went with the Go Fast Bits valve and went to pick up the vehicle yesterday from my local indy shop that I trust and once everything was buttoned back up the truck was throwing a low boost pressure code and when they took it for a test drive it went immediately into limp mode and wouldn't allow any boost to build.

Now, I've done quite a bit of homework on these diverter valves and have seen in some cases the stiffer spring on the valve causing a soft code to throw or even the CEL. But this was different. We called the guys at Pure who built the turbo and he said there is a leak somewhere, but the mechanic at my shop insists there is no leak. Jimmy at Pure asked if we had pressure tested and they told him yes they had. Jimmy asked how much pressure had been tested and they said 3-4 pounds, to which he replied that we should run the target boost pressure and only then would we find the leak. The owner of the shop said he didn't feel comfortable doing that and that he firmly believes there is no leak. So the plan was to replace the stock diverter valve as that's really the only thing that's changed here.

I went home pretty disappointed, but didn't want to give up completely so I started researching and found a thread on 1addicts where a guy with a 135i N55 had the exact same situation and he was going to take the car into the dealer and uninstalled his jb4 and intake and re-installed the stock air box and voila car runs perfectly and no issues. This just seems too good to be true in my case, but was wondering what some of you guys' thoughts are. I should also mention that I have a RaceChip and not a jb4. The only reason I'm typing this up instead of just doing it right now is that I left the car at the indy shop and they locked it inside and aren't open today and are closed for the weekend too. So I won't be able to test this out until Monday morning.

Thanks in advance for any input.

Best,
Justin

t04d · 06-13-2019, 03:49 PM

UPDATE: After many hours of troubleshooting, pressure testing, banging our heads against a wall it seems that the RaceChip for whatever reason is not cooperating with the additional airflow from the larger turbine on the re-built turbo. When the chip is disabled the car runs fine and when it's turned on we get a drivetrain error as soon as the vehicle goes into boost. It's pretty strange, but as long as the chip is disabled the car runs just fine (albeit a hell of a lot slower).

So the decision now sounds like it will be between a jb4 or the bm3 flash. Flash sounds like the way to go at this point.

RED_Y_ · 06-13-2019, 06:29 PM

This kind of makes sense since Race Chip is built and configured for stock turbo and stock parameters of the airflow, turbine etc. Do the flash.

TOPEC · 06-13-2019, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t04d

UPDATE: After many hours of troubleshooting, pressure testing, banging our heads against a wall it seems that the RaceChip for whatever reason is not cooperating with the additional airflow from the larger turbine on the re-built turbo. When the chip is disabled the car runs fine and when it's turned on we get a drivetrain error as soon as the vehicle goes into boost. It's pretty strange, but as long as the chip is disabled the car runs just fine (albeit a hell of a lot slower).

So the decision now sounds like it will be between a jb4 or the bm3 flash. Flash sounds like the way to go at this point.

a flash tune is always better than a piggy back tune.

r33_RGSport · 06-13-2019, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t04d

UPDATE: After many hours of troubleshooting, pressure testing, banging our heads against a wall it seems that the RaceChip for whatever reason is not cooperating with the additional airflow from the larger turbine on the re-built turbo. When the chip is disabled the car runs fine and when it's turned on we get a drivetrain error as soon as the vehicle goes into boost. It's pretty strange, but as long as the chip is disabled the car runs just fine (albeit a hell of a lot slower).

So the decision now sounds like it will be between a jb4 or the bm3 flash. Flash sounds like the way to go at this point.

Hmm, I doubt it is the RaceChip.
If the DV can't hold up to the increases boost, then there is something wrong with the DV.
It kept on releasing boost pressure before it hit the target

You can look at piggyback tuning as a boost controller.

Now you have upgraded Turbo which have higher boost and it was running fine before the DV.

In theory, swapping to JB4 or Flash Tune won't help you.
But, I may be wrong.

I will keep an eye of this thread, and I'll help as much as I can.

Keep us updated and good luck.

TOPEC · 06-13-2019, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by r33_RGSport

Hmm, I doubt it is the RaceChip.

In theory, swapping to JB4 or Flash Tune won't help you.
But, I may be wrong.

ben, i understand u try very hard to stand behind the products u sell, but u cant just turn a blind eye and ignore the facts and point fingers else where when OP already states that disabling the racechip solves the issue. U r partly correct tho that a JB4 or BM3 wont help as those tunes usually come with maps meant for stock hardware. So unless OP decides to do a custom dyno tune, a JB4/BM3 may or may not run into similar issues and will definitely not be fully taking advantage of the larger compressor/turbine.

Now if i recall from long ago, JB4 had an adaptive mode where it will try and learn the parameters of ur set up, but of course, there is only so much it can learn by itself without a dyno tune telling it what its supposed to see. So OP, unless there is a OTS map for that particular turbo out there, u'll have to get a custom dyno tune for it. Ur next step should be looking for tunes that allows u to load a custom map.

r33_RGSport · 06-13-2019, 11:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TOPEC

Quote:

Originally Posted by r33_RGSport

Hmm, I doubt it is the RaceChip.

In theory, swapping to JB4 or Flash Tune won't help you.
But, I may be wrong.

ben, i understand u try very hard to stand behind the products u sell, but u cant just turn a blind eye and ignore the facts and point fingers else where when OP already states that disabling the racechip solves the issue. U r partly correct tho that a JB4 or BM3 wont help as those tunes usually come with maps meant for stock hardware. So unless OP decides to do a custom dyno tune, a JB4/BM3 may or may not run into similar issues and will definitely not be fully taking advantage of the larger compressor/turbine.

Now if i recall from long ago, JB4 had an adaptive mode where it will try and learn the parameters of ur set up, but of course, there is only so much it can learn by itself without a dyno tune telling it what its supposed to see. So OP, unless there is a OTS map for that particular turbo out there, u'll have to get a custom dyno tune for it. Ur next step should be looking for tunes that allows u to load a custom map.

Sorry if I offend you.
It doesn't matter who's product it is.
I am consumer first, vendor second.

So, if you think that I just purely in this forum just to sell.
Why would I even bother replying to his or yours post.
I could just skim the thread and ignore it.
Who give a damn about someone using the product that I sell and spoke highly of, and currently having a problem. Right??

But, noooo, I have to jumped in and help and understand and educate as much as possible.
I am in this industry since 1993 not just for the money. It is for the love of the industry.

So, let me know if I should walk away or help?

t04d · 06-13-2019, 11:49 PM

Update: Well at this point I'm pretty much at a loss on what exactly to think. So the shop removed the DV+ and put the stock one back on. That didn't fix this issue. Next was removal of the intake. That didn't fix anything. Then they unplugged the RaceChip. That didn't fix it. Then we replaced the chargepipe with the stock pipe and finally the truck showed signs of life. They tested it with a few pulls and all seemed fine so they plugged the RaceChip back in and I went to pick it up. Drove home and didn't push it and it seemed fine, but of course after getting home I decided I should go for a spin and push it a bit.

Take it out on the feeder and pull a couple 30-60ish goes and it seems fine, but admittedly a bit unsure of itself (wish I could describe it better then that). So I turn the chip on and almost immediately as I get over 3k rpm's I get the drivetrain error. So I pull over and restart the vehicle and take it back out and try again to get it to go over 3k rpm's and am unable as it throws the drivetrain warning at me again. So at this point I'm pissed off wondering why this thing is acting like a spoiled princess $%^&*. I drive home and I don't know why but I was just like F it I'm putting the intake back on just to see what happens. Take it back out with the intake and just keep getting the same results. At this point it didn't seem to matter whether the chip was on or not, it just didn't want to run. Then later in the evening I disable the chip and am able to get it to make some pulls again.

So this morning I take it back to the shop and the owner who is a BMW Master Technician asks me if I have time to take it for a spin. We go out and he romps on it probably 4-5 times with the chip disabled and it pulls great. Then we enable the chip and bam almost immediately we get the drivetrain error. We pull over and restart and try again and same thing happens. Then we disable the chip and again we make 4-5 pulls with no issue. So I'm sure you guys can imagine what we decide at this point. The damn chip is causing the issue. So he says man I don't know why, but it seems to be the problem so just leave it disabled and/or remove it. So I'm like damn that stinks, but okay good plan.

Well later in the day I start getting curious again and I had told my wife that I just couldn't believe that the chip would be the problem. At this point she's had enough and is like I swear to God if you keep messing with that car I'm going to make you sleep in it (she's pregnant). So I wait until she goes upstairs to take a bath and I sneak out into the garage and put the aftermarket chargepipe back on. Start up the truck and everything seems good so I go for a spin and it drives great. So now I'm like okay let's try enabling the RaceChip one more time and low and behold it worked!! Finally I dropped the throttle all the way down and it just pulled like a freight train. Before the re-built turbo the power really felt like it was dying off as it approached redline. Not anymore. The truck just seems to hold boost a lot better and it shows in the acceleration. I wouldn't say it's immensely faster than it was before, but without question it is noticeably faster and it just feels like it's pushing me into my seat all the way to redline. It is so incredibly fun to drive!

Here's what I will say in regards to the chip. I can't quite put my finger on it, but it's almost like it's still trying to figure itself out. If I give it too much throttle at the wrong time the truck bucks and shudders quite a bit. I guess the right way to describe it is that the power delivery is choppy at times. When I give it throttle while in boost or right after it shifts up into a new gear the thing takes off like a bat out of hell and the power delivery is perfectly fine. I would guess that a custom tune with bm3 would offer a much smoother power delivery, but I do wonder how much more power I could expect to gain. I could see myself being interested in the bm3 at some point specifically for smoother power, but at the moment I couldn't be happier with the RaceChip and my initial impressions when I installed the RaceChip were very good and I've really enjoyed it along with the MPPK.

Hope this is helpful guys and thanks for your input!!!

t04d · 06-14-2019, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by r33_RGSport

Sorry if I offend you.
It doesn't matter who's product it is.
I am consumer first, vendor second.

So, if you think that I just purely in this forum just to sell.
Why would I even bother replying to his or yours post.
I could just skim the thread and ignore it.
Who give a damn about someone using the product that I sell and spoke highly of, and currently having a problem. Right??

But, noooo, I have to jumped in and help and understand and educate as much as possible.
I am in this industry since 1993 not just for the money. It is for the love of the industry.

So, let me know if I should walk away or help?

I can say first hand that Ben has been one of the most helpful individuals on this forum since we've owned our x5. He is always fast to respond and always has been extremely knowledgeable and honest with me in regards to mods and these vehicles. Sure he wants people to spend their money with him, but the help and support that he's provided even when it comes to products that he doesn't sell is in my opinion above and beyond what most vendors are willing to do. Thanks for everything, Ben!

TOPEC · 06-14-2019, 01:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by r33_RGSport

Sorry if I offend you.
It doesn't matter who's product it is.
I am consumer first, vendor second.

no offence taken by me, but u seem pretty offended. when OP already stated the facts that the racechip seems to be the culprit of the problem from his testing yet the very first thing u say is its not the racechip that is causing the issue, yeahhh it def sounds like ur defending ur product.

Quote:

Originally Posted by t04d

but I do wonder how much more power I could expect to gain. I could see myself being interested in the bm3 at some point specifically for smoother power, but at the moment I couldn't be happier with the RaceChip and my initial impressions when I installed the RaceChip were very good and I've really enjoyed it along with the MPPK.

a custom dyno tune will not net u too much more power but will definitely smooth out the power delivery as the map will be tailored made to your specific engine re: condition of your engine, the gas u use, the temperature/elevation ur car sees in ur area etc etc.

r33_RGSport · 06-14-2019, 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TOPEC

Quote:

Originally Posted by r33_RGSport

Sorry if I offend you.
It doesn't matter who's product it is.
I am consumer first, vendor second.

no offence taken by me, but u seem pretty offended. when OP already stated the facts that the racechip seems to be the culprit of the problem from his testing yet the very first thing u say is its not the racechip that is causing the issue, yeahhh it def sounds like ur defending ur product.

yes master.

artem123 · 06-15-2019, 08:36 AM

Thank you for being here r33_RGSport
Ben definitely makes it a better place))
Sorry OP)

ComasF15 · 06-15-2019, 02:38 PM

Did I read that the new compressor is not the stock equivalent? I don't find it on this thread.
Maybe on the other thread?

The oem map and the race chip are all based on the stock compressor map. The new map is critical to making it all work together as mass flow is different. I'm going to assume the compressor was matched within the stock turbine, otherwise it needs to be. What has been done so far can be improved on by a custom dyno tune. Did you retain the stock case on the compressor side? In any case plan on taking the new map to a tuner to see what he can do.

IMHO

t04d · 06-15-2019, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ComasF15

Did I read that the new compressor is not the stock equivalent? I don't find it on this thread.
Maybe on the other thread?

The oem map and the race chip are all based on the stock compressor map. The new map is critical to making it all work together as mass flow is different. I'm going to assume the compressor was matched within the stock turbine, otherwise it needs to be. What has been done so far can be improved on by a custom dyno tune. Did you retain the stock case on the compressor side? In any case plan on taking the new map to a tuner to see what he can do.

IMHO

Sorry for the confusion. So PURE rebuilt the turbo using their stage one kit. So it's a larger compressor wheel with a machined housing and modified turbine. It utilizes the stock housing, however. I don't know how much more air it flows exactly, but since the truck seems to have settled and the RaceChip enabled is no longer throwing the drivetrain malfunction I can say that it pulls very strong all the way to redline, whereas before the power seemed to kind of begin to drop off when approaching redline.

r33_RGSport · 06-15-2019, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t04d

Sorry for the confusion. So PURE rebuilt the turbo using their stage one kit. So it's a larger compressor wheel with a machined housing and modified turbine. It utilizes the stock housing, however. I don't know how much more air it flows exactly, but since the truck seems to have settled and the RaceChip enabled is no longer throwing the drivetrain malfunction I can say that it pulls very strong all the way to redline, whereas before the power seemed to kind of begin to drop off when approaching redline.

Hmmpphhh. Can't reply. The master will be all over my ass if I do.

:

TOPEC · 06-16-2019, 01:37 AM

man u really r butthurt, just shows how mature u r lol

spacegray_f15 · 06-17-2019, 11:07 PM

are you goin to throw the gfb diverter valve back on there? Ive been thinking bout putting one on mine, Im only stg2 right now but a few of my friends with other N55 cars swear by these DVs

t04d · 06-18-2019, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spacegray_f15

are you goin to throw the gfb diverter valve back on there? Ive been thinking bout putting one on mine, Im only stg2 right now but a few of my friends with other N55 cars swear by these DVs

I think I will be putting it back on at some point. I'm a bit disappointed they took it off in the first place, but understand that troubleshooting needed to be done. For now I'm planning to leave it the way it is, simply because we've spent quite a bit just getting it back up and running. Would only be a couple more hours in labor to re-install, but my wife might kill me if I tell her it has to go back to the shop anytime soon.

I have also heard that these valves are excellent and work very well. Super curious to see how it would perform with it on there. Plus there is a guy who has a pretty decent video online after installing his (granted it's a different model vehicle, but has the same motor) and it sounds really awesome. No power would be added, but the idea of it holding boost thru redline even better than it does now sounds pretty neat.

spacegray_f15 · 06-29-2019, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t04d

I think I will be putting it back on at some point. I'm a bit disappointed they took it off in the first place, but understand that troubleshooting needed to be done. For now I'm planning to leave it the way it is, simply because we've spent quite a bit just getting it back up and running. Would only be a couple more hours in labor to re-install, but my wife might kill me if I tell her it has to go back to the shop anytime soon.

I have also heard that these valves are excellent and work very well. Super curious to see how it would perform with it on there. Plus there is a guy who has a pretty decent video online after installing his (granted it's a different model vehicle, but has the same motor) and it sounds really awesome. No power would be added, but the idea of it holding boost thru redline even better than it does now sounds pretty neat.

How much of a pain was the install? I'm very interested in doing this to mine but am a little skeptical about going into it blind.

t04d · 06-30-2019, 11:59 PM

The indy shop I work with installed the valve and they installed it while the turbo was off of the vehicle. When we started having issues they uninstalled it and re-installed the stock valve and I didn't ask many questions about how this was done, but I've researched quite a bit around the install and have seen that it's possible to install without actually removing the turbo. From my understanding it requires certain tools and A LOT of patience.

I asked the owner of the shop how long it takes and he said no more than a few hours, but it's probably not something I would attempt on my own. There is almost not space down where the turbo sits, so I can't even imagine how someone could install this thing with the turbo on the car, but it sounds like it's possible.

06-07-2019, 12:12 PM	#1
t04d Private 95 Rep 60 Posts Drives: Subaru Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: TX iTrader: (0)	GFB Diverter Valve Hey Guys, As some of you may know from my other thread I had to get my turbo rebuilt recently and I decided since it was going to be off of the vehicle I may as well go ahead and upgrade the diverter valve. Went with the Go Fast Bits valve and went to pick up the vehicle yesterday from my local indy shop that I trust and once everything was buttoned back up the truck was throwing a low boost pressure code and when they took it for a test drive it went immediately into limp mode and wouldn't allow any boost to build. Now, I've done quite a bit of homework on these diverter valves and have seen in some cases the stiffer spring on the valve causing a soft code to throw or even the CEL. But this was different. We called the guys at Pure who built the turbo and he said there is a leak somewhere, but the mechanic at my shop insists there is no leak. Jimmy at Pure asked if we had pressure tested and they told him yes they had. Jimmy asked how much pressure had been tested and they said 3-4 pounds, to which he replied that we should run the target boost pressure and only then would we find the leak. The owner of the shop said he didn't feel comfortable doing that and that he firmly believes there is no leak. So the plan was to replace the stock diverter valve as that's really the only thing that's changed here. I went home pretty disappointed, but didn't want to give up completely so I started researching and found a thread on 1addicts where a guy with a 135i N55 had the exact same situation and he was going to take the car into the dealer and uninstalled his jb4 and intake and re-installed the stock air box and voila car runs perfectly and no issues. This just seems too good to be true in my case, but was wondering what some of you guys' thoughts are. I should also mention that I have a RaceChip and not a jb4. The only reason I'm typing this up instead of just doing it right now is that I left the car at the indy shop and they locked it inside and aren't open today and are closed for the weekend too. So I won't be able to test this out until Monday morning. Thanks in advance for any input. Best, Justin Last edited by t04d; 06-07-2019 at 12:56 PM..
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06-13-2019, 03:49 PM	#2
t04d Private 95 Rep 60 Posts Drives: Subaru Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: TX iTrader: (0)	UPDATE: After many hours of troubleshooting, pressure testing, banging our heads against a wall it seems that the RaceChip for whatever reason is not cooperating with the additional airflow from the larger turbine on the re-built turbo. When the chip is disabled the car runs fine and when it's turned on we get a drivetrain error as soon as the vehicle goes into boost. It's pretty strange, but as long as the chip is disabled the car runs just fine (albeit a hell of a lot slower). So the decision now sounds like it will be between a jb4 or the bm3 flash. Flash sounds like the way to go at this point.
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06-13-2019, 06:29 PM	#3
RED_Y_ Colonel 1059 Rep 2,511 Posts Drives: 2014 X5 3.5d Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: SF Bay Area iTrader: (0)	This kind of makes sense since Race Chip is built and configured for stock turbo and stock parameters of the airflow, turbine etc. Do the flash.
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06-13-2019, 11:49 PM	#8
t04d Private 95 Rep 60 Posts Drives: Subaru Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: TX iTrader: (0)	Update: Well at this point I'm pretty much at a loss on what exactly to think. So the shop removed the DV+ and put the stock one back on. That didn't fix this issue. Next was removal of the intake. That didn't fix anything. Then they unplugged the RaceChip. That didn't fix it. Then we replaced the chargepipe with the stock pipe and finally the truck showed signs of life. They tested it with a few pulls and all seemed fine so they plugged the RaceChip back in and I went to pick it up. Drove home and didn't push it and it seemed fine, but of course after getting home I decided I should go for a spin and push it a bit. Take it out on the feeder and pull a couple 30-60ish goes and it seems fine, but admittedly a bit unsure of itself (wish I could describe it better then that). So I turn the chip on and almost immediately as I get over 3k rpm's I get the drivetrain error. So I pull over and restart the vehicle and take it back out and try again to get it to go over 3k rpm's and am unable as it throws the drivetrain warning at me again. So at this point I'm pissed off wondering why this thing is acting like a spoiled princess $%^&*. I drive home and I don't know why but I was just like F it I'm putting the intake back on just to see what happens. Take it back out with the intake and just keep getting the same results. At this point it didn't seem to matter whether the chip was on or not, it just didn't want to run. Then later in the evening I disable the chip and am able to get it to make some pulls again. So this morning I take it back to the shop and the owner who is a BMW Master Technician asks me if I have time to take it for a spin. We go out and he romps on it probably 4-5 times with the chip disabled and it pulls great. Then we enable the chip and bam almost immediately we get the drivetrain error. We pull over and restart and try again and same thing happens. Then we disable the chip and again we make 4-5 pulls with no issue. So I'm sure you guys can imagine what we decide at this point. The damn chip is causing the issue. So he says man I don't know why, but it seems to be the problem so just leave it disabled and/or remove it. So I'm like damn that stinks, but okay good plan. Well later in the day I start getting curious again and I had told my wife that I just couldn't believe that the chip would be the problem. At this point she's had enough and is like I swear to God if you keep messing with that car I'm going to make you sleep in it (she's pregnant). So I wait until she goes upstairs to take a bath and I sneak out into the garage and put the aftermarket chargepipe back on. Start up the truck and everything seems good so I go for a spin and it drives great. So now I'm like okay let's try enabling the RaceChip one more time and low and behold it worked!! Finally I dropped the throttle all the way down and it just pulled like a freight train. Before the re-built turbo the power really felt like it was dying off as it approached redline. Not anymore. The truck just seems to hold boost a lot better and it shows in the acceleration. I wouldn't say it's immensely faster than it was before, but without question it is noticeably faster and it just feels like it's pushing me into my seat all the way to redline. It is so incredibly fun to drive! Here's what I will say in regards to the chip. I can't quite put my finger on it, but it's almost like it's still trying to figure itself out. If I give it too much throttle at the wrong time the truck bucks and shudders quite a bit. I guess the right way to describe it is that the power delivery is choppy at times. When I give it throttle while in boost or right after it shifts up into a new gear the thing takes off like a bat out of hell and the power delivery is perfectly fine. I would guess that a custom tune with bm3 would offer a much smoother power delivery, but I do wonder how much more power I could expect to gain. I could see myself being interested in the bm3 at some point specifically for smoother power, but at the moment I couldn't be happier with the RaceChip and my initial impressions when I installed the RaceChip were very good and I've really enjoyed it along with the MPPK. Hope this is helpful guys and thanks for your input!!!
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06-15-2019, 08:36 AM	#12
artem123 Captain 250 Rep 748 Posts Drives: G30 Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Philly Burbs iTrader: (0)	Thank you for being here r33_RGSport Ben definitely makes it a better place)) Sorry OP) __________________ Ones drove a Reliant Robin. )))
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GFB Diverter Valve

06-15-2019, 02:38 PM	#13
ComasF15 Private First Class 54 Rep 174 Posts Drives: Silver Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: Emerald Coast iTrader: (0)	Did I read that the new compressor is not the stock equivalent? I don't find it on this thread. Maybe on the other thread? The oem map and the race chip are all based on the stock compressor map. The new map is critical to making it all work together as mass flow is different. I'm going to assume the compressor was matched within the stock turbine, otherwise it needs to be. What has been done so far can be improved on by a custom dyno tune. Did you retain the stock case on the compressor side? In any case plan on taking the new map to a tuner to see what he can do. IMHO
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06-16-2019, 01:37 AM	#16
TOPEC <3 Flat Four 217 Rep 754 Posts Drives: 335is LM Blue Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Richmond B.C. iTrader: (0)	man u really r butthurt, just shows how mature u r lol __________________ 2011 335is Le Mans Blue 2016 X5 xdrive 35i Alpine White
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06-17-2019, 11:07 PM	#17
spacegray_f15 Second Lieutenant 169 Rep 231 Posts Drives: 2014 N55 M sport Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Orlando Florida iTrader: (0)	are you goin to throw the gfb diverter valve back on there? Ive been thinking bout putting one on mine, Im only stg2 right now but a few of my friends with other N55 cars swear by these DVs
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06-30-2019, 11:59 PM	#20
t04d Private 95 Rep 60 Posts Drives: Subaru Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: TX iTrader: (0)	The indy shop I work with installed the valve and they installed it while the turbo was off of the vehicle. When we started having issues they uninstalled it and re-installed the stock valve and I didn't ask many questions about how this was done, but I've researched quite a bit around the install and have seen that it's possible to install without actually removing the turbo. From my understanding it requires certain tools and A LOT of patience. I asked the owner of the shop how long it takes and he said no more than a few hours, but it's probably not something I would attempt on my own. There is almost not space down where the turbo sits, so I can't even imagine how someone could install this thing with the turbo on the car, but it sounds like it's possible.
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