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      09-06-2023, 08:36 AM   #67
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Is it possible to get a copy of that PDF? I have the F85/86 one and mine doesn't have that diagram in it.
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      09-06-2023, 12:32 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chilled View Post
I think it maybe possible to bypass the separator unit, without removing it. I looked inside whilst I was doing the PCV hose and It looks like that o-ring seals the vent pipe to the separator unit. Insuring that only the air/pressure that went through the separator unit makes its way into the intake.
So maybe an adapter that simply does not go in but bolts to the valve cover and lets all air/pressure out would be a good solution. Thoughts??

Just to be clear the pcv hose that had more oil, was it the same one u replaced? and also same bank with the intake hose that was cracked?

If you can get an adapter (preferably AN fitting) that will be a perfect fit on the valve cover the system will work perfect, but the risks of it not fitting perfectly will lead to dirt from the engine bay directly into your cylinder heads also leaks same u had when the oring failed.

Then you will also have to attach a hose from the adapter that will route the gasses back into the intake or do u plan on installing catch cans?
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      09-06-2023, 12:44 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chilled View Post
Is it possible to get a copy of that PDF? I have the F85/86 one and mine doesn't have that diagram in it.

Check your PM
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      09-06-2023, 06:54 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by Trion_f85 View Post
Just to be clear the pcv hose that had more oil, was it the same one u replaced? and also same bank with the intake hose that was cracked?

Then you will also have to attach a hose from the adapter that will route the gasses back into the intake or do u plan on installing catch cans?
The old one is the one with more oil in it. The first photo uploaded, with the darker plastic colour. Both the intake boots were cracked. I first noticed that the boot on the new PCV was cracked after I put my hand on it and it moved around allot. After removing it, I checked the other side and yep both are cracked at the seam/where the are glued to the mounting bracket.


Yeh, if bypassing the internal separator, some form of separation/filtration would be needed. So a plumbed back (to create the vacuum) catch can would be a must.
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      09-06-2023, 11:27 PM   #71
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Hi, a bit late to the party, but in relation to the OP's comment about there not being a specific kit made for the F85/F86, would this "complete" kid from ECS tuning include everything needed for the install with no additional peripheral components?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-turner-m...798tms01-09kt/
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      09-07-2023, 07:27 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I Luv BMW View Post
Hi, a bit late to the party, but in relation to the OP's comment about there not being a specific kit made for the F85/F86, would this "complete" kid from ECS tuning include everything needed for the install with no additional peripheral components?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-turner-m...798tms01-09kt/
That's a universal, It will still need customizing of the plugs and you need 2x of that kit.

Grossly overpriced.

You can get a universal kit from Amazon for like $50 USD.
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      09-07-2023, 07:52 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chilled View Post
That's a universal, It will still need customizing of the plugs and you need 2x of that kit.

Grossly overpriced.

You can get a universal kit from Amazon for like $50 USD.
Yep what he said ^^^^^
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      09-07-2023, 08:25 PM   #74
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So, from what I can gather running hose to a catch can and then back to the intake (or to the exhaust as Sophisticated Redneck might make a kit for) is best due to still having vacuum pull. Some vent their catch can to atmosphere and plug the intake pcv ports, so no vacuum.

On my 6.0 diesel excursion my CCV is just straight to atmosphere, no catch can, hose running down to a low point underneath. Is that not feasible to do with the N63/S63?
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      09-07-2023, 08:33 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chilled View Post
The old one is the one with more oil in it. The first photo uploaded, with the darker plastic colour. Both the intake boots were cracked. I first noticed that the boot on the new PCV was cracked after I put my hand on it and it moved around allot. After removing it, I checked the other side and yep both are cracked at the seam/where the are glued to the mounting bracket.


Yeh, if bypassing the internal separator, some form of separation/filtration would be needed. So a plumbed back (to create the vacuum) catch can would be a must.

Ohkay i understand, you should have probably changed them both at once. So what are you going to do about the intake boot? If the crack isnt that bad they're some special adhesives that can work, would save you cost of 2 intake boots.
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      09-07-2023, 08:44 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfunk88 View Post
So, from what I can gather running hose to a catch can and then back to the intake (or to the exhaust as Sophisticated Redneck might make a kit for) is best due to still having vacuum pull. Some vent their catch can to atmosphere and plug the intake pcv ports, so no vacuum.

On my 6.0 diesel excursion my CCV is just straight to atmosphere, no catch can, hose running down to a low point underneath. Is that not feasible to do with the N63/S63?

Yes ideally with the vacuum pull will just make the process faster, I run catch can to atmostphere setup, it works fine (even better i will say) because there is 0 chance of oil entering the intake.

the flapper valve that opens inside the PCV hose is very light, literally a small amount of pressure flowing into the hose will push it wide open. I tried blowing air into the pipe and the flapper valve opened with little effort.
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      09-08-2023, 10:40 AM   #77
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So I’d be good with just straight hose ending at the lower reinforcement plate, no catch can?
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      09-08-2023, 02:44 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfunk88 View Post
So I’d be good with just straight hose ending at the lower reinforcement plate, no catch can?
Yes and No, the system is a bit complicated yet very simple lol

Yes but if you can have a non return valve at the other end of the hose, then gasses flow directly into the hose and into your engine bay but nothing will go back coz of the non return valve. (with catch can & filter u avoid a straight hose dangling in your engine bay)

The reason for the non return valve is that during idle & deceleration the throttle body is closed so there is vacuum in the intake manifold, this vacuum will pull the gasses straight into your intake manifold through holes in the cylinder heads. (also check diagrams in previous page)
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Now in my case i chose to still use the stock adapter attachment to the valve cover because i couldn't find any that will sit perfectly. (Chilled was suggesting to use another adapter and this and will be good idea if u find a perfect fit that will screw on the valve cover)
And stock non- return valve coz its light & does not need too much pressure to open and also due to the leak hole as mentioned in the picture above.
But eliminated the plastic hose with an AN10 hose.

AN-10 FITTING SITS PERFECTLY ON THE STOCK COMPONENTS with a little bit of sanding

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      09-08-2023, 05:44 PM   #79
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So I’d need another “flapper valve” at the end of the hose I run in addition to the stock valves? I was thinking the stock valve would close under idle/deceleration.

Basically what I was planning to do was extend the hoses already there that go from the stock valves into the intake tubes just before the turbos and run that hose down to the bottom of the car. Any oil most will just go out the bottom in my mind. And plug the ports just before the turbo, of course.

I apologize if I’m just not understanding…hopefully I’ll have an “Ah HA!” moment soon lol
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      09-08-2023, 09:07 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfunk88 View Post
So I’d need another “flapper valve” at the end of the hose I run in addition to the stock valves? I was thinking the stock valve would close under idle/deceleration.

Basically what I was planning to do was extend the hoses already there that go from the stock valves into the intake tubes just before the turbos and run that hose down to the bottom of the car. Any oil most will just go out the bottom in my mind. And plug the ports just before the turbo, of course.
Since you’re extending from already existing hose you dont need another valve but u will need a sort of air filter material at the end of the hose to prevent debris in the new extended hose. Also need to make sure the hose is not squeezed in a tight angle to prevent free flow.

I will still recommend the hose routed to catch can then exit from filter makes it safer and neater, there are pretty cheap universal catch cans out there on ebay, amazon, aliexpress.

I bought mine here (2pcs)
https://a.aliexpress.com/_msNX10q

AN Fittings
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mK2vJto
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      09-09-2023, 05:34 AM   #81
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Got it, and I understand now

Thanks for the links!
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      09-25-2023, 05:55 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mstgeer View Post
Sophisticated Redneck
Any update on your catch can setup?
Apologies for being MIA, had a major project to complete before I could come back to this. Now that it is done, I can start back up on this very soon. Next up is eliminating those Horrific looking plastic flap valves that have plagued every generation of this engine family by going internal with them in the catch can itself. I want nothing but super clean AN lines and zero plastic in this system as it should be.

Attached are pics of its current state installed on a F02. The F85 flavor does not need the 3 port and will actually be cheaper in cost. As I get closer to production I will be looking for a F85 owner in Arizona for final fitment and prototyping (you will receive a free Catch can kit for the hassle).

Anodizing color and beauty cap logo can be customized by request.

I don't plan on making many of these, just a passion project for fun and for those that demand the very best. Will update again in a few weeks and start a thread specific for it.
Attached Images
              

Last edited by Sophisticated Redneck; 09-25-2023 at 06:27 AM..
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      09-25-2023, 08:54 AM   #83
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That is awesome! How adaptable would the kit be for N63TU?
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      09-25-2023, 06:35 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mstgeer View Post
Sophisticated Redneck
Thank you for the update, count me in for one.
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      09-25-2023, 11:53 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
I don't plan on making many of these, just a passion project for fun and for those that demand the very best. Will update again in a few weeks and start a thread specific for it.
Interested as well.
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      09-27-2023, 01:54 PM   #86
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Interested as well
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      09-28-2023, 03:34 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfunk88 View Post
That is awesome! How adaptable would the kit be for N63TU?
Thanks and very adaptable as the n63tu & s63tu share so many common parts. Will jump into the F15 forums as I get closer to release to update.
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      09-28-2023, 03:42 AM   #88
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mstgeer, Autobacs, and MBoss_F86 - Will reach in a few weeks once I have solid testing of the new internal flap valve catch can. The BMW flap valve represents an interesting challenge as it has a very low opening and closing pressure and why many of the aftermarket one-way valves don't work so well or give drive train errors.

I have a particular valve design in mind that I believe will be superior to the original BMW. Real world testing in all scenarios (from stop and go traffic, to full blown back to back 1/4 mile runs and everything in between will be completed within the next 2-3 weeks.
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