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      12-07-2023, 01:24 PM   #1
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I ran away from the dealer at lightning speed!

My wallet emitted a dollar-wrenching scream and I just had to make a speedily break for it.
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Last edited by musa; 12-07-2023 at 02:49 PM..
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      12-07-2023, 01:44 PM   #2
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The vehicle is tramlining like crazy and there's a thumping noise when I turn to the left on a gradient. I guess other than the struts and mounts, I should also replace the highlighted items, right? Vehicle mileage is 68k miles.
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Last edited by musa; 12-07-2023 at 02:34 PM..
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      12-07-2023, 02:09 PM   #3
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I would look at tire rods and your alignment first. That kind of noise could also be wheel bearings.
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      12-07-2023, 02:38 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pachieh View Post
I would look at tire rods and your alignment first. That kind of noise could also be wheel bearings.
Yes, tie rods too, thanks! I updated my above image. I will look at the mounts myself and see if indeed the diagnosis is correct. I had taken my vehicle in for brake fluid flash ( I hate doing it) and asked the dealer to take a look at the bad tramlining issue.
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      12-07-2023, 02:42 PM   #5
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Alignment is key. My tire rods froze and I had them replaced at 75k miles. Alignment immediately after and my tracking issues and toe issues were resolved. I’d do that before you go crazy replacing a ton of parts.

Also, for 8k, you should buy KW v3 too!
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      12-07-2023, 05:21 PM   #6
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Are you sure your up-optioned struts need to be replaced, too? I ask because on some BMWs (in the past)…sometimes the strut mount (in this case #10 in the diagram) is made of rubber, and it can fail/split where the rod & bolts (#11 & #12) at the top of the strut comes thru the mount & secures everything in place.

My experience with this was back in the late 80s/early 90s on my e30 325e. On that series…it was the rear strut mounts that would fail (as mentioned above) and you’d get this clunking as the strut would push up through the mount as you drove over certain road surfaces and conditions.

Look real close at the mount to see if it is split…you can even try bouncing the suspension to see if movement cause the split to become visible. If this is the case…again, you may only need to replace the failed mount…and nothing may be wrong with your (expensive) struts.
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      12-08-2023, 03:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musa View Post
My wallet emitted a dollar-wrenching scream and I just had to make a speedily break for it.
Had pretty much the same symptoms ..super hard to diagnose. I changed the sway bar link, tension strut, lower control arm in that order (2k in parts and i did my own labor)..noise still persisted. Was the dam strut. Bought a new one and noise is gone. Just bought the strut alone and no other parts, the top mount is mostly metal and really didn't have a failure point like the f15s.
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      12-08-2023, 11:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcm3 View Post
Had pretty much the same symptoms ..super hard to diagnose. I changed the sway bar link, tension strut, lower control arm in that order (2k in parts and i did my own labor)..noise still persisted. Was the dam strut. Bought a new one and noise is gone. Just bought the strut alone and no other parts, the top mount is mostly metal and really didn't have a failure point like the f15s.
Thank you. Did you also have bad tramlining issue other than the knocking noise?

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      12-10-2023, 07:00 PM   #9
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Got some work done this weekend on the front suspension left & right
My case was a clunking sound which happens mostly while accelerating from a dead stop and while vehicle is coming to a stop. Vehicle is 65k miles (105k km)

Upon inspection i noticed lower control arm (the smaller one) and stabilizer linkage were both worn out.
Its not an easy task, took more than 7hours also used the opportunity to change the brake pads

The thing is all the parts you highlighted cant go bad all at once for example a bad strut would be visibly leaking.
The linkage i replaced and control arm, their joints were so easy to move round but the new ones were hard and needed alot pressure.
So i ll advise u do more inspection before going all out on parts.
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      12-12-2023, 10:11 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pachieh View Post
Alignment is key. My tire rods froze and I had them replaced at 75k miles. Alignment immediately after and my tracking issues and toe issues were resolved. I’d do that before you go crazy replacing a ton of parts.

Also, for 8k, you should buy KW v3 too!
My tie rods froze at 44k, I got car used and after swapping rims/tires couldn’t even do alignment, so had to replace those
They had to be cut😳
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