EGR Cooler Recall - cause DPF Clogging?

[mrrsharma@yahoo.com]

About 100 miles no codes or pending codes

[m4forum]

I will order the sensor and replace. Will share the results.
Please keep up update.

[m4forum]

Just noticed when I had the engine light on it took 3-4 runs for the engine light to turn off considering the delta temp between coolant and EGR coolant was below 40-50F

[mrrsharma@yahoo.com]

The light did come back on(same code). So I’ll hook it up to insta to see what’s next to check, the only part I haven’t changed is the aux pump… after that it would have to be the EGR cooler!

I’m not seeing any changes to the low temp coolant line, so I see the issue. Not sure if it is supposed to go up or down after the changeover process.

[m4forum]

My theory is that delta between coolant temp and egr coolant higher than 40-50F triggers code. The reason for low egr temp would be changeover valve.

Did you notice after replacing the changerover and egr sensor that egr coolant temp is getting far below coolant temp?

Typically my collant is around 195F and egr coolant 160-140F.

[mrrsharma@yahoo.com]

I just ran it thru insta, the changeover valve clicks.

I had to do a key word search, for ‘coolant’, and low temp EGR aux pump showed up. So I did the test procedure and there was no flow at all with the aux pump, and no noise.

I did a check on YouTube and you should be able to hear aux pumps running and see flow, sometimes right back at the top of the reservoir. I didn’t see any flow. So looks like my aux pump died. Looks to be easy to change out, 2 blind bolts that I can feel but can not see and 2 hose connectors and an electrical connector. The metal bracket also needs to be swapped over.

[m4forum]

Very interesting. You mentioned two topics I found very interesting.
first : where did you find the option to activate the changeover valve? under service?
second : never used the search. where did you go to execute the search?
Would like to run both procedures on my car also.
Always something to learn here.

[BlueYonder]

Originally Posted by BlueYonder

Got the car back after 2 months of troubleshooting. Pleased that BMW corporate decided to cover the costs. Dealer told me the repairs totaled more than $12000.00.

Hopefully this fixed the problem.

Check Engine Light for the changeover valve back on. Back to the dealer.

[m4forum]

I used the information search on ISTA .... it works!
Found test procedure for changeover .... just to recap I have engine light on and low temperature for EGR coolant .... the changeover valve is dead.
Also test auxiliary water pump ... works perfectly.
Plan to replace the changeover valve in a near future and hopefully fix the engine light.

@ mrrsharma@yahoo.com what is the error code on your case? do you have low EGR coolant temp?

[mrrsharma@yahoo.com]

2BD800 is the infamous code I get.

[mrrsharma@yahoo.com]

When you ran the test on the low temp EGR aux pump what did you get? Noise? Any flow in the coolant tank?

[mrrsharma@yahoo.com]

Also for the changeover valve this was the best place to get it…. It takes a solid 2 weeks, but is half the price

https://cars245.com/en/item/bosch-11...ve-air-intake/

You also will need 3 of the hose clamps because the current clamps are 1 time use. You can get them from eBay or Amazon or anywhere…

[m4forum]

Clearly can hear the pump. Noise comes from alternator area.
my code is different 2C2200.
did you drain all coolant for replacement of changeover?

[m4forum]

Clearly can hear the pump. Noise comes from alternator area.
my code is different 2C2200.
did you drain all coolant for replacement of changeover?

[m4forum]

tks for the tip .... got the changeover.
hopefully the pump replacement will fix the issue

[mrrsharma@yahoo.com]

I didn’t drain the coolant when I change the valve. I lost maybe 1/2 a gallon of coolant

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by mrrsharma@yahoo.com

I didn’t drain the coolant when I change the valve. I lost maybe 1/2 a gallon of coolant

I had the same experience when I changed our changeover valve.

Meaning, did not drain coolant, lost about 1/2 gallon (maybe slightly more).

[m4forum]

thank you. I have ordered the changeover part. It comes from EU but is 1/3 price from dealer. Thanks mrrsharma@yahoo.com for the suggestion.
will report here but will few some time.
other issue I am facing ... wrote on other post ... is about coolant consumption. my oil report shows coolant. My suspicious now is the oil cooler. I dont expect head gasket as no overheating, performance or smoke.

[mrrsharma@yahoo.com]

So I did change out the EGR aux pump. The thing is a bitch to change, without removing the oil filter housing. When I removed it (easy part) the bolts had resistance. I guess due to the ofh slightly leaking it gunk up the threads.

Reinstalling a new pump was a pain, I was able to spray some brake cleaner to the holes and that helped with threading in the screws. But the one forward behind the ac pump/ alternator would not thread. I’ll buy a thread chaser and do that one later.

But for now it’s good.

Weird part is when I removed the pump very little coolant came out from both hoses. After reinstalling the new pump I got an error (pending) stating pump was running dry, but after a few minutes that never returned.

I did notice at start up that the temp before EGR and coolant were very close. Once it got to operating temp, it was like 10*F off from each other. No codes so far, usually I get a pending code with it 2 days and check engine at 3-4. But it’s warmed up… I know this error show up most of the time when it’s cold outside (below 60)

I tried to get the pump I removed started but it was a no go.

Let’s hope this solves it

[Clifton]

mrrsharma@yahoo.com & m4forum appreciate you guys keep this story updated. If you have pictures or procedures, please post those as well.

I for one would appreciate seeing more detail on change over valve and aux pump as those seem to be frequent topics and possible good preventive maintenance topics.

[mrrsharma@yahoo.com]

Here some pictures. The bolts are m6x16 I think the part numbers for those are 07119904524.

One of the picture should have instructions one what to remove. So you can barely get your hand to the front bolt. The one picture that shows the bolt I struggle to install, will thread chase it this week, and get it back in.

To remove the coolant lines you need a small screw driver to pull the wire clip up and it comes out without a hitch.

The ground/power line in the corrugated cover and the transmission line to the cooler were in the way.

The last picture with the transmission cooler lines off was from eBay, I used it for reference, lol.

[mrrsharma@yahoo.com]

Going Good For the past 10 days, no error codes so looks like I solved the problem.

I was curious and decided to change the coolant temp sensor on the head it is less than $20 for a facet(Italian) temp sensor.

What a pain in the a$$! The sensor connector would not want to come out.
I could give up, but f-that, the actual connector part is ACDelco 25186240. I could not find the bmw part number, in any case that connector is crap. I found this connector that is a perfect fit, https://a.co/d/bGv6qef , it is a Audi/vw style, which is so much easier.

What I did was destroy the BMW connector until the plug portion was left. Then you slide the door and depress the pins to release them, same with the vw connector slid the door off (for both) and depress
The pins and you can reconnectorize the connector. Real simple. The pins are interchangeable.

Some weird things I noticed is the temp sensor I removed was scored black on one side, and when I removed it not a single drop of coolant came out, I added a few cups with a funnel but couldn’t tell if it was spilling, it never gushed out, so there is a bunch of air trapped in the system. One day I’ll have to drain and vacuum fill it, if it gives me issues.

Let’s hope the saga of error comes to an end.