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      06-01-2020, 11:20 AM   #1
Jims M3
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Transmission Service on 50i

I bought a transmission service kit from FCP this last week and performed the service Saturday. It was straightforward and easy enough. I measured what I got out of the pan and it was right at 4 quarts. I put the new pan on, and began refilling it on level ground. The tranny only took 3 quarts of oil, so I heated up the tranny went through the gears even took it out for a drive. Car shifted perfectly no issues.

I then tried to top off the fluid again and the X5 wouldn't take any more fluid. So where the did the extra quart go??

Everything is shifting fine, not sure what is happening that it won't take more fluid.
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      06-01-2020, 11:52 AM   #2
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same 50i, i took out 5 liters and added about 5 liters.
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      06-01-2020, 11:58 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jims M3 View Post
I bought a transmission service kit from FCP this last week and performed the service Saturday. It was straightforward and easy enough. I measured what I got out of the pan and it was right at 4 quarts. I put the new pan on, and began refilling it on level ground. The tranny only took 3 quarts of oil, so I heated up the tranny went through the gears even took it out for a drive. Car shifted perfectly no issues.

I then tried to top off the fluid again and the X5 wouldn't take any more fluid. So where the did the extra quart go??

Everything is shifting fine, not sure what is happening that it won't take more fluid.
The procedure to refill is: drop in approx 3 quarts until it spills out the fill hole, start engine and rev to 2K for 30 seconds in park, shift to reverse and idle for 30 seconds, then 1st for 30 seconds, then 2nd for 30 seconds, put back in park and leave engine running and quickly run back under and stuff another quart or so in. Transmission temp needs to between 86 to 122f. Total fill will be 4 to 4.5 quarts give or take a little depending on the temp. If you put in just 3 you are in danger of the transmission losing pressure on steep declines which will give you a drivetrain error and force you into neutral, which is not fun on a steep downhill grade with a 5300lb truck. I learned this the hard way when I first got mine and the previous owner did not follow the correct fill procedure.

PROTIP: Pickup a cheap welding blanket from harbor freight to wrap your exhaust in next to the fill port to keep your flesh on your arms...

PROTIP 2 - Loosening the valve body (dont remove, just loosen) allows nearly 2 more quarts to drain from the transmission for around 6 total, allowing for a more complete oil change.

Last edited by Sophisticated Redneck; 06-01-2020 at 12:04 PM..
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      06-01-2020, 12:45 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
The procedure to refill is: drop in approx 3 quarts until it spills out the fill hole, start engine and rev to 2K for 30 seconds in park, shift to reverse and idle for 30 seconds, then 1st for 30 seconds, then 2nd for 30 seconds, put back in park and leave engine running and quickly run back under and stuff another quart or so in. Transmission temp needs to between 86 to 122f. Total fill will be 4 to 4.5 quarts give or take a little depending on the temp. If you put in just 3 you are in danger of the transmission losing pressure on steep declines which will give you a drivetrain error and force you into neutral, which is not fun on a steep downhill grade with a 5300lb truck. I learned this the hard way when I first got mine and the previous owner did not follow the correct fill procedure.

PROTIP: Pickup a cheap welding blanket from harbor freight to wrap your exhaust in next to the fill port to keep your flesh on your arms...

PROTIP 2 - Loosening the valve body (dont remove, just loosen) allows nearly 2 more quarts to drain from the transmission for around 6 total, allowing for a more complete oil change.
So you leave the motor running and add more fluid.
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      06-01-2020, 01:11 PM   #5
Jims M3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feven1026 View Post
same 50i, i took out 5 liters and added about 5 liters.
Any tips you have on getting the last quart in besides below?
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      06-01-2020, 01:13 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jims M3 View Post
Any tips you have on getting the last quart in besides below?
i did what the post said above , lets the engine ran until it reached the temperature and add rest.
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      06-01-2020, 01:34 PM   #7
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I didn't add oil while the motor was running it was shut off, I'll follow the procedure and see if that works.
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      06-01-2020, 04:13 PM   #8
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That did it got 5 quarts in, thanks all.
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      06-01-2020, 05:52 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jims M3 View Post
That did it got 5 quarts in, thanks all.
Ya its not alot of fun being underneath 5300lbs while its running but only way to get that last bit in as it drains from the torque converter as soon as its shut off.

To think all of this hassle could be solved by a transmission dipstick you could fill from....remember those?
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      06-15-2020, 01:31 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
The procedure to refill is: drop in approx 3 quarts until it spills out the fill hole, start engine and rev to 2K for 30 seconds in park, shift to reverse and idle for 30 seconds, then 1st for 30 seconds, then 2nd for 30 seconds, put back in park and leave engine running and quickly run back under and stuff another quart or so in. Transmission temp needs to between 86 to 122f. Total fill will be 4 to 4.5 quarts give or take a little depending on the temp. If you put in just 3 you are in danger of the transmission losing pressure on steep declines which will give you a drivetrain error and force you into neutral, which is not fun on a steep downhill grade with a 5300lb truck. I learned this the hard way when I first got mine and the previous owner did not follow the correct fill procedure.

PROTIP: Pickup a cheap welding blanket from harbor freight to wrap your exhaust in next to the fill port to keep your flesh on your arms...

PROTIP 2 - Loosening the valve body (dont remove, just loosen) allows nearly 2 more quarts to drain from the transmission for around 6 total, allowing for a more complete oil change.

Has anyone else done "PROTIP 2"? seems like a good idea, but haven't seen any other DIY's or instructions that explain this step in detail. Any risks with loosening/re-tightening all of those valve body/mechatronics asm bolts(something like 18 of them)?
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      06-15-2020, 01:34 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NERO X View Post
Has anyone else done "PROTIP 2"? seems like a good idea, but haven't seen any other DIY's or instructions that explain this step in detail. Any risks with loosening/re-tightening all of those valve body/mechatronics asm bolts(something like 18 of them)?
I'm not sure I like that idea. Unless you put a new seal /gasket.
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      06-15-2020, 09:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NERO X View Post
Has anyone else done "PROTIP 2"? seems like a good idea, but haven't seen any other DIY's or instructions that explain this step in detail. Any risks with loosening/re-tightening all of those valve body/mechatronics asm bolts(something like 18 of them)?
I scan in and post up the torque sequence and spec tomorrow (traveling right now). There is no risk as you tighten everything back up to spec. I have done it several times and at 154,000 miles now on orginal transmission
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      06-15-2020, 09:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboawd View Post
I'm not sure I like that idea. Unless you put a new seal /gasket.
No gasket from the valve body to transmission, there is a gasket between the valve body halves but the valve body itself will not be taken apart or loosened. When I post up the scanned image it will make it more clear. We are just loosening the bolts that hold the entire valve body to the transmission and just lowering it about 1/16th if an inch, no bolts are actually removed.
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      06-15-2020, 09:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
No gasket from the valve body to transmission, there is a gasket between the valve body halves but the valve body itself will not be taken apart or loosened. When I post up the scanned image it will make it more clear. We are just loosening the bolts that hold the entire valve body to the transmission and just lowering it about 1/16th if an inch, no bolts are actually removed.
No seal of any kind? Seems odd.
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      05-17-2022, 09:44 PM   #15
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Hi,

I am puzzled and can't decide what to do. I had a hard time to get the car perfectly leveled for the fluid (and pan) change.
First fill took ~4.5l. The car was on a slight slope. Front wheels up 2 deg and right side up 2deg.
I thought that, since the fill plug is on the back-right of the pan I could've under filled, so I decides to try to find another spot on my driveway and I was able to add about 0.5l extra to total of ~5l. On the second fill the front wheels were up 1deg and right side was up 3deg. That rose the fill plug location, which could promote overfilling. Now I am not sure if that was a good decision to pursue second fill. The shifting seems to be rougher at slow accelerations with 5l fluid vs 4.5l. (Or I may be paranoid)
What do you Guys think, chill and live with 5l or drain that 0.5l. Could 0.5l overfill be damaging for tranny?

Thanks!
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      05-19-2022, 11:51 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
I scan in and post up the torque sequence and spec tomorrow (traveling right now). There is no risk as you tighten everything back up to spec. I have done it several times and at 154,000 miles now on orginal transmission
How about a tranny with 112K miles on it? I took ownership at 50K miles and have yet to do a tranny fluid service. Others have stated given the amount of miles they wouldn't touch it.
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      05-21-2022, 07:28 PM   #17
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I did this service today (2015 X5 35d) and it was fairly straight forward if you're fairly comfortable working on cars. Not a newbie job IMO. I used 4 wheel ramps in the garage which is very secure and gives sufficient room to work (although still kinda tight). I didn't realize that the structural piece straddling the transfer case needed to be loosened to access the rear tranny cover screws - not a big deal but another step. I added most of a litre of new ZF fluid to the pan and filter before putting it on as I use a 250ml syringe arrangement so any saving of refills was welcome. Like others, I got about 3.5l in when cold and not running. I hooked up ISTA to monitor the fluid temp when I started the car - worked great but took a while as the wheels were on ramps and not spinning - I shifted from Park to Reverse to Drive a few times - temp rose consistently. ISTA tells you when you should do the final fill - two complications there - hot exhaust and darn slippery tranny plug with fluid dripping out at full. In any case, done now I hope for another 100,000 kms. Oh, and the stuff (tranny fluid) stinks - goodness…I'll take used motor oil any day over that! . Bottom line - listen to ZF, not BMW when it comes to the transmission fluid change. Thanks to everyone for the tips - very helpful.
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      06-03-2022, 02:05 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M302_imola View Post
How about a tranny with 112K miles on it? I took ownership at 50K miles and have yet to do a tranny fluid service. Others have stated given the amount of miles they wouldn't touch it.
Change it
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      06-03-2022, 02:55 AM   #19
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Is this service strictly based on mileage or is there a time component as well? I have 46k on my F15 2015. Was planning on doing it around 60k or so.
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      06-05-2022, 07:23 PM   #20
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I just did all the fluids on my wife's 17 x5 40e on Friday at 70k.
Definitely not the worse I have seen but definitely worth changing.
I might drain the trans again and just do a refill in the next few months. Fluid is definitely too dark for my liking.
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      06-05-2022, 08:20 PM   #21
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I did the diffs, tcase, and gearbox all at 40k. ZF recommends 40k on the gearbox so I did all of them preventatively. Not a bad idea if you decide to turn it up.
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      06-06-2022, 10:21 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sukhk527 View Post
I did the diffs, tcase, and gearbox all at 40k. ZF recommends 40k on the gearbox so I did all of them preventatively. Not a bad idea if you decide to turn it up.
By gear box do you mean transmission? If so, they don't recommend to even start thinking about it until about 50k miles but give a significant range and that's only under severe loads. Obviously perfectly fine you did that. Just don't want others to think they need to change transmission fluid at 40k miles. ZF even says it can last the lifetime of the car.

ZF states:

"It is recommended, in the event of severe operating conditions, such as:
- frequent highway driving in top speed range,
- offensive, sporty driving style,
- frequent trailer operation,
being above average, oil purification (oil change) on automatic transmissions is recommended between 80,000 km and 120,000 km, or 8 years, depending on the load."
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