Custom Subwoofer Enclosure X5 - Build

[Twin Peaks]

3/25/2019 - Work In Progress

So I finally decided to upgrade the bass in ye old X5. I want to do it in the most Plug and Play way possible. This is a work in progress and as things are shipped to me, I'll post updates/step by step with links and Q/A (that I can answer). Here is just a list for now, I do have some pictures queued up with the box fitted/cutting and bending some metal just a pinch and sanding some of the box down. Please dont go buying the stuff I bought till I learn for you guys . If any of you have advice or suggestions, let me know.

Current Options
X5 (F15) with S4UBA 3rd seat row / S2VMA ADAPTIVES FAHRWERKSPAKET COMFORT / S2VPA ADAPTIVES FAHRWERKSPAKET DYNAMIC / S6F2A BangOlufsen High End Surround Sound

Originally Posted by Current Shopping List

1. $219.00 - BMW X5 F15 Fit-Box subwoofer enclosure Custom fit MDF 8" Bass Box Sub enclosure | From Poland, 4-6 days to US East Coast. Notes: It only comes in black and listed in one size. I asked seller to add "extender ring" to accompany my speaker and it bare (no fabric) since I have the ivory white interior. The box will also require a little bit of sanding to accommodate the speaker.
   
2. $50.00 - Logic7/HK/EPS/Individual Audio/Bang & Olufsen/Bowers & Wilkins add-a-sub T-Harness | From Florida - Priority Mail | Notes: Plug and play at its finest. This will power on the amp & feed LOC audio signal for sub directly from factory.
   
3. $119.95 - Massive Audio Hippo84-8 Inch Car Audio 1,000 Watt Hippo Series Competition Subwoofer, Dual 4 Ohm, 2.5 Inch V.C Notes: Dual 4 ohm - I plan to run @ 2 ohm (500 ish watts).
   
4. $59.99 - KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit
   
5. $71.99 - AudioControl LC2i 2 Channel Line Out Converter Wwith AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control Notes: This will take the audio and remote to turn on the amp.
   
6. $126.99 - Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier Notes: Document rated @ 623 watts when I got it.
   
7. $35 - Fairfield PF-10 The Original Poly-Fil Premium 100% Fiber Fill Box, White, 10 lb Notes: I got more than I needed (other projects around the house), you should not use more than maybe a pound? Do more research, have it nowhere near contacting the subwoofer!
   
8. $13.99 - GS Power's 8 inch Bar Grille for Car Audio Subwoofer and Speaker. Matte Black Finish (1 pc) Notes: I will have things in the rear, so I need to protect the exposed speaker!
   
9. $8.87 - 10 Pack - EPAuto ATC/ATO 10 Gauge 30 AMP In-Line Fuse Holder Notes: I only need one, but I like to buy in bulk in case friends/family need a hand with misc projects.
   
10. $16.99 - Second Skin Butyl Sealant Tape – Sound Deadening and Multi-purpose Butyl Rope for All Vehicles (Car, RV, Marine) – 3/8" x 15' – Made in the USA
    
11. $48.95 - Stinger SGP32 200 AMP Battery Relay Isolator and Relay Notes: Called manufacturer | It was suggested to not use the LOC power/remote out/on for the relay 12v ignition. I can tap into rear 12v ignition on using a fuse tap. I will use a 100 amp fuse between primary battery and second.
    
12. $10.85 - InstallGear 0/2/4 Gauge AWG In-Line ANL Fuse Holder with 150 Amp Fuse
    
13. $4.99 x 2 - Absolute ANL100-2, 2 Pack ANL Fuses 100 Amp Gold Plated
    
14. $34.99 - Mighty Max Battery Viper VP-600 600 Watt Car Audio Battery for Phoenix Gold 400.2 Brand Product Notes: I don't have this yet, I hope it fits near the existing battery or amp. It should all fit, I'll find out very soon.
    

Electrical Stuff (Work In Progress)

Fuses!
Fuse Tap #159 from rear fuse panel (5amp) -> Battery Isolator Relay. This should allow the isolator to flow 12v power to secondary battery when the head unit/B&O amp turns on.
100 amp in line fuse between Main -> Secondary Battery
100 amp in line fuse between Secondary Battery -> Aftermarket Amp
1 amp in line fuse between Secondary Battery -> LC2i LOC


VSD Diagram (Work In Progress)

[TOPEC]

i was toying with the idea of adding a sub as well, but since u have 3rd row seating i assume u dont have the empty space (spare tire well) in the trunk? it has abt 9in of depth to it so fitting an 8in sub with box shouldnt be an issue. im planning to add an 11" sub. good choice on the audiocontrol n nice find on the harness.

[duercos]

Originally Posted by Twin Peaks

[SIZE="4"]3/25/2019 - Work In Progress[/SIZE]

So I finally decided to upgrade the bass in ye old X5. I want to do it in the most Plug and Play way possible. This is a work in progress and as things are shipped to me, I'll post updates/step by step with links and Q/A (that I can answer). Here is just a list for now, I do have some pictures queued up with the box fitted/cutting and bending some metal just a pinch and sanding some of the box down. Please dont go buying the stuff I bought till I learn for you guys . If any of you have advice or suggestions, let me know.

Current Options
X5 (F15) with S4UBA 3rd seat row / S2VMA ADAPTIVES FAHRWERKSPAKET COMFORT / S2VPA ADAPTIVES FAHRWERKSPAKET DYNAMIC / S6F2A BangOlufsen High End Surround Sound

Electrical Stuff (Work In Progress)

Fuses!
Fuse Tap #159 from rear fuse panel (5amp) -> Battery Isolator Relay. This should allow the isolator to flow 12v power to secondary battery when the head unit/B&O amp turns on.
100 amp in line fuse between Main -> Secondary Battery
100 amp in line fuse between Secondary Battery -> Aftermarket Amp
1 amp in line fuse between Secondary Battery -> LC2i LOC


VSD Diagram (Work In Progress)

I am sorry to point it out, but
1 - you made a mistake by going with 8" sub/subs. Are you adding 1 or 2 of them?
2 - don't think those subs will fit in the custom box you ordered, which is a shallow mount box...

[duercos]

And don't think you really needed that relay and the battery, again I am no pro audio master, but have done a few sub upgrades on all my cars lol

[TOPEC]

Originally Posted by duercos

2 - don't think those subs will fit in the custom box you ordered, which is a shallow mount box...

the sub mounting depth is 5.04in according to the manual. the subbox allows 130mm depth subs which means 5.11in, just barely fits.

[Twin Peaks]

Originally Posted by TOPEC

the sub mounting depth is 5.04in according to the manual. the subbox allows 130mm depth subs which means 5.11in, just barely fits.

[QUOTE=duercos;24567467]

Originally Posted by Twin Peaks

3/25/2019 - Work In Progress

I am sorry to point it out, but
1 - you made a mistake by going with 8" sub/subs. Are you adding 1 or 2 of them?
2 - don't think those subs will fit in the custom box you ordered, which is a shallow mount box...

Originally Posted by duercos

And don't think you really needed that relay and the battery, again I am no pro audio master, but have done a few sub upgrades on all my cars lol

Originally Posted by TOPEC

the sub mounting depth is 5.04in according to the manual. the subbox allows 130mm depth subs which means 5.11in, just barely fits.

No need to be sorry. Crutchfield, Sonicelectronic, and Stinger agree that this will work the way I want it to. (I'll find out soon enough)

1. No mistake on the sub 500ish watts rms is enough for me and literally pushing the limits of this enclosure/space available, just 1.
2. Hence me asking for an extension ring to be added when they manufactured it. Even the cu ft is off by a bit but the polyfill will offset it. Fits perfectly, 1/4 inch "ish" of space under the magnet.
3. Relay; You may be right... but my f15 has every option except m sport. I would rather not have a ghost in my electrical or any extra "draw". I've followed the forums long enough now to know that electrical can be a game of cat and mouse hence completely separating it.

[fantaxp7]

Thanks for the info here. I have a similar X5 with the third row so it's interesting to see should I ever get motivated to do the same.

Very interested to see your thoughts on the overall improvement.

[bmwx1sq]

Nice setup!

Still working on mine. Still need to make the cover panels.

[duercos]

[QUOTE=Twin Peaks;24568849]

Originally Posted by TOPEC

the sub mounting depth is 5.04in according to the manual. the subbox allows 130mm depth subs which means 5.11in, just barely fits.

Originally Posted by duercos

No need to be sorry. Crutchfield, Sonicelectronic, and Stinger agree that this will work the way I want it to. (I'll find out soon enough)

1. No mistake on the sub 500ish watts rms is enough for me and literally pushing the limits of this enclosure/space available, just 1.
2. Hence me asking for an extension ring to be added when they manufactured it. Even the cu ft is off by a bit but the polyfill will offset it. Fits perfectly, 1/4 inch "ish" of space under the magnet.
3. Relay; You may be right... but my f15 has every option except m sport. I would rather not have a ghost in my electrical or any extra "draw". I've followed the forums long enough now to know that electrical can be a game of cat and mouse hence completely separating it.

Let us know how you like it when it's all done
I've installed 2 10" JLs and the bass is barely deep enough for me lol

[duercos]

[QUOTE=duercos;24571393]

Originally Posted by Twin Peaks

Let us know how you like it when it's all done
I've installed 2 10" JLs and the bass is barely deep enough for me lol

I too struggled with the fitment too much
Ordered 3 different sub boxes, had to get shallow mount subs instead of regular ones (which I sell in the classifieds ) then I had to make cutouts bugger in these current boxes as they claimed to be 10" holes, but they were too narrow for my JL TW3s..

[TOPEC]

Originally Posted by duercos

Let us know how you like it when it's all done
I've installed 2 10" JLs and the bass is barely deep enough for me lol

what model r these subs? trying to get an idea of the box i need to build. and if u could, dimensions of the box? much appreciated.

[duercos]

Originally Posted by TOPEC

what model r these subs? trying to get an idea of the box i need to build. and if u could, dimensions of the box? much appreciated.

You can look them up on ebay
Like I said, I had to manually make the cutouts larger by cutting them with a knife first and then sanding them down

[Twin Peaks]

[QUOTE=duercos;24571393]

Originally Posted by Twin Peaks

Let us know how you like it when it's all done
I've installed 2 10" JLs and the bass is barely deep enough for me lol

There are many factors that would attribute to the lack of bass, i.e. speakers themselves, amp, cu ft requirements of the space vs sub requirements, whether you have a sealed subwoofer concealed under another panel, how you tapped into the factory audio, etc etc.

Bass isn't just the "lows/boom", its more so the frequency of the sound and your picture shows me that your speakers are concealed... let them breath!

Can you share a video of them with a bass heavy song on and all opened up? I would love to see the excursion of them both. Can you also show a video from the driver seat with them turned up and everything closed/normal?

[duercos]

[QUOTE=Twin Peaks;24579976]

Originally Posted by duercos

There are many factors that would attribute to the lack of bass, i.e. speakers themselves, amp, cu ft requirements of the space vs sub requirements, whether you have a sealed subwoofer concealed under another panel, how you tapped into the factory audio, etc etc.

Bass isn't just the "lows/boom", its more so the frequency of the sound and your picture shows me that your speakers are concealed... let them breath!

Can you share a video of them with a bass heavy song on and all opened up? I would love to see the excursion of them both. Can you also show a video from the driver seat with them turned up and everything closed/normal?

I am very pleased with the sound, don't get me wrong. I agree that it's not the best location for mounting subs in the car, but I also need a full trunk space having a toddler and his "luggage" on board frequently. So the spare tire compartment was the only option for me. The boxes are ported and have a bit space in front of the outlets, and the floor cover lets the sound travel through at an acceptable rate. I am afraid there is no recording device out there that would let you record loud music with the bass and pass it on to the listeners keeping the SQ on par

[Twin Peaks]

[QUOTE=duercos;24580277]

Originally Posted by Twin Peaks

I am very pleased with the sound, don't get me wrong. I agree that it's not the best location for mounting subs in the car, but I also need a full trunk space having a toddler and his "luggage" on board frequently. So the spare tire compartment was the only option for me. The boxes are ported and have a bit space in front of the outlets, and the floor cover lets the sound travel through at an acceptable rate. I am afraid there is no recording device out there that would let you record loud music with the bass and pass it on to the listeners keeping the SQ on par

Oh I know about the sound, I want to see excursion. I didn't realize they were shallow mounted till you posted the picture and now I am more interested than before if you can get a video.

Also, I have the same stuff going on with family/space requirements hence the tiny box near the fuse panel.

[duercos]

[QUOTE=Twin Peaks;24581835]

Originally Posted by duercos

Oh I know about the sound, I want to see excursion. I didn't realize they were shallow mounted till you posted the picture and now I am more interested than before if you can get a video.

Also, I have the same stuff going on with family/space requirements hence the tiny box near the fuse panel.

Send me your email, I'll make a video. I meant to say that a video from a driver's seat wouldn't be anything interesting

[Twin Peaks]

90% install done (video up top), I still need to put matching carpet on the box, tune the amp, and figure out why my lc2i isn't powering on when the amp turns on like I wired it to (the battery isolator turns on via 12v on the b&o amp on signal). There is a major difference and when the weather gets better I am going to show more of it.

[TOPEC]

can u show a picture of how the harness plugs in between the oem amp and oem wiring?

[Twin Peaks]

Originally Posted by TOPEC

can u show a picture of how the harness plugs in between the oem amp and oem wiring?

The red and black plug "do not" get plugged in. They are listed as "N/A" in the pdf that the owner of technicpnp sent me (even though they are labeled 12v and ground).

[JakeRadden]

Thanks for posting! I am really underwhelmed by the mid-lows and lower in the F15 HK system, and this really looks like the easiest plug and play solution.

[bmwx1sq]

Originally Posted by JakeRadden

Thanks for posting! I am really underwhelmed by the mid-lows and lower in the F15 HK system, and this really looks like the easiest plug and play solution.

Just make sure you get the right harness.

[Robg11197]

Originally Posted by Twin Peaks

[SIZE="4"]3/25/2019 - Work In Progress[/SIZE]

So I finally decided to upgrade the bass in ye old X5. I want to do it in the most Plug and Play way possible. This is a work in progress and as things are shipped to me, I'll post updates/step by step with links and Q/A (that I can answer). Here is just a list for now, I do have some pictures queued up with the box fitted/cutting and bending some metal just a pinch and sanding some of the box down. Please dont go buying the stuff I bought till I learn for you guys . If any of you have advice or suggestions, let me know.

Current Options
X5 (F15) with S4UBA 3rd seat row / S2VMA ADAPTIVES FAHRWERKSPAKET COMFORT / S2VPA ADAPTIVES FAHRWERKSPAKET DYNAMIC / S6F2A BangOlufsen High End Surround Sound

Electrical Stuff (Work In Progress)

Fuses!
Fuse Tap #159 from rear fuse panel (5amp) -> Battery Isolator Relay. This should allow the isolator to flow 12v power to secondary battery when the head unit/B&O amp turns on.
100 amp in line fuse between Main -> Secondary Battery
100 amp in line fuse between Secondary Battery -> Aftermarket Amp
1 amp in line fuse between Secondary Battery -> LC2i LOC


VSD Diagram (Work In Progress)

Originally Posted by Twin Peaks

[SIZE="4"]3/25/2019 - Work In Progress[/SIZE]

So I finally decided to upgrade the bass in ye old X5. I want to do it in the most Plug and Play way possible. This is a work in progress and as things are shipped to me, I'll post updates/step by step with links and Q/A (that I can answer). Here is just a list for now, I do have some pictures queued up with the box fitted/cutting and bending some metal just a pinch and sanding some of the box down. Please dont go buying the stuff I bought till I learn for you guys . If any of you have advice or suggestions, let me know.

Current Options
X5 (F15) with S4UBA 3rd seat row / S2VMA ADAPTIVES FAHRWERKSPAKET COMFORT / S2VPA ADAPTIVES FAHRWERKSPAKET DYNAMIC / S6F2A BangOlufsen High End Surround Sound

Electrical Stuff (Work In Progress)

Fuses!
Fuse Tap #159 from rear fuse panel (5amp) -> Battery Isolator Relay. This should allow the isolator to flow 12v power to secondary battery when the head unit/B&O amp turns on.
100 amp in line fuse between Main -> Secondary Battery
100 amp in line fuse between Secondary Battery -> Aftermarket Amp
1 amp in line fuse between Secondary Battery -> LC2i LOC


VSD Diagram (Work In Progress)

Any updates on the subwoofer in such a small enclosure? I'm thinking of getting the same subwoofer box but just wanna know if you were pleased with the sound