Something Every 50i owner over 80K miles should check

[PGH_X5]

Finally had a chance to do this and glad I did! Mine wasn't ready to fall off tomorrow but it had way too much play. I'll estimate 3-4mm out of spec.

To gauge the 5mm spec on each side I found a standard #2 screwdriver shaft to be exactly 5mm across so hold one static next to the chain while you push it side to side with another screwdriver. It didn't take many turns to tighten it up.

I also found that 3M spray adhesive (good for basically any material) works really well to hold the gasket in place. The key is to clean the pan well and then spray evenly.. Wait one minute for it to set up per the instructions and then place the gasket on, pressing evenly and it won't move.

I don't know how you do this job without a power ratchet and lots more time. If you don't have one make this an excuse to pick up a Milwaukee M12 3/8 drive ratchet.

The DIY is great but it's handy to have the drain plug and filter housing torque specs handy.

Oil drain plug 25 N-m
Filter housing 30 N/m back off 180 degree then 40 N-m

[wyowolf]

Just did this, my chain was out of spec but not a huge amount.
1. dont really see the need for the TTY bolts, its hardly more than stiff sheet metal, not some kind of structural member I was expecting...I changed them because I bought them but if I did it again I wouldn't bother... hell they weren't even that tight to begin with!
2. definitely get a power ratchet!!
3. dont expect a typical oil filter wrench to fit in that tight space, even with the lower pan removed you can't really, it sits up inside the engine too much, you need the stupid specialty tool...
4. the drain plug and filter were stupid tight!!
5. if you dont have the 8mm long hex a T handle will work , its not turning anything that tight...

other than its pretty straightforward. but I can see why it could come off, mine wasn't super loose but it will defiantly get looser over time...

[zero2sixtyZ]

Ordered the parts from FCP and had a friend's shop perform this fix for my 50i. Reported definitely out of spec, lots of slack. There was definitely some chain noise previously, so I believe the slack was pretty severe. Unfortunately I could not capture any pictures or video.

I'm glad to have addressed this now and be back within spec at 83k.

[Dasky_spas]

How long does it take to swap out the lower oil pan in the n63tu ( n63b)? I'm thinking it would be ideal to swap in the s63 oil pan for the oil cooler hookup and dual oil pickup.

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by wyowolf

Just did this, my chain was out of spec but not a huge amount.
1. dont really see the need for the TTY bolts, its hardly more than stiff sheet metal, not some kind of structural member I was expecting...I changed them because I bought them but if I did it again I wouldn't bother... hell they weren't even that tight to begin with!
2. definitely get a power ratchet!!
3. dont expect a typical oil filter wrench to fit in that tight space, even with the lower pan removed you can't really, it sits up inside the engine too much, you need the stupid specialty tool...
4. the drain plug and filter were stupid tight!!
5. if you dont have the 8mm long hex a T handle will work , its not turning anything that tight...

other than its pretty straightforward. but I can see why it could come off, mine wasn't super loose but it will defiantly get looser over time...

Cmon man. You change the bolts because the bolts are stretched. Assuming you torqued them to spec. They are one time use when stretched. If you don’t know what that means it’s when you have a torque value of say 90 ft-lb + 90deg. That 90 deg is stretching the bolt. And yes that metal sheet is a structural stiffening plate. Will the car fall apart with it. Probably not. But clearly the engineers thought it would help the 2Ton beast not flex too bad while driving down the road.