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      07-15-2014, 12:23 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Alan l. View Post
You might want to look into the Burgertuning tune for your V8. I have a 2014 550i with the same N63TU and supposedly the old 2011-2013 TMAP based tunes for the 550 doesn't work on the updated 2014 motor. Burgertuning switched it up and now the newer cars use a MAF based tune which takes me seconds (not exaggerating at all) to install and go back to stock since the sensors is right on top of the engine.

Usually with CEL's it doesn't impact the way the car drives. Not to the point where you say its shaking etc... I am suspecting that the tune A) wasn't installed correctly or B) its not right for the N63TU.
I can assure you the install was done correctly. Nonetheless, thanks for the information .

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Originally Posted by greentrbo95gst View Post
I saw the install and it's two TMAP plugs in front of your intercoolers.
I know 35i and 35d are different, but 50i seems to be the easiest out of all three for an install.
It is definitely not easy. The space where the two TMAP sensors are located is difficult to get into. My mechanic had to to remove the metal bar that covers it just to get in there and even then it was a tight space in front of the intercoolers. I'm always honest and upfront about everything I see or do. The worst part is, since its the latest X5, no one but BMW has the software using the OBD tablets to reset this stupid malfunction, which is all that needs to be done. It can't be done with the RaceChip tune sitting there all nice and cozy, lol. I spent 3K on extended warranty. I'm not going to void it - the whole point of buying this chip was because it was SUPPOSED TO BE a simple play n play for easy install/easy removal as to NOT VOID our warranty.
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      07-15-2014, 12:30 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by opasha View Post
I can assure you the install was done correctly. Nonetheless, thanks for teh information .



It is definitely not easy. The space where the two TMAP sensors are located is difficult to get into. My mechanic had to to remove the metal bar that covers it just to get in there and even then it was a tight space in front of the intercoolers. I'm always honest and upfront about everything I see or do. The worst part is, since its the latest X5, no one but BMW has the software using the OBD tablets to reset this stupid malfunction, which is all that needs to be done. It can't be done with the RaceChip tune sitting there all nice and cozy, lol. I spent 3K on extended warranty. I'm not going to void it - the whole point of buying this chip was because it was SUPPOSED TO BE a simple play n play for easy install/easy removal as to NOT VOID our warranty.

I just looked at your pictures. How come your mechanic removed the intakes?
Try going through few driving cycles and see if it goes away. It worked on my M5.
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      07-15-2014, 12:31 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by greentrbo95gst View Post
Did you have a Drivetrain malfunction before the tune? I thought I read something about that in one of the threads.

I have a F10 M5 with BMS tune and catless downpipes and had Drivetrain malfunction message at the top of 4th gear because of air/fuel mixtures. It takes few driving cycles and it goes away on its own.
Nope, no problems at all before the tune. I'm one of the most observant/OCD people when it comes to my possessions. Everything is taken care of and spotless from phones to computers to cars. I treat my cars really well. That's why my 2004 FX35 is still running like a champion after 130K miles. The BMW is rarely even used and never ever pushed to its limits. It's still under 2k miles.
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      07-15-2014, 12:35 PM   #48
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Nope, no problems at all before the tune. I'm one of the most observant/OCD people when it comes to my possessions. Everything is taken care of and spotless from phones to computers to cars. I treat my cars really well. That's why my 2004 FX35 is still running like a champion after 130K miles. The BMW is rarely even used and never ever pushed to its limits. It's still under 2k miles.
Join the OCD club. I have a 2005 Acura with almost 150k miles and not a single issue and the car still looks great.
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      07-15-2014, 01:07 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by greentrbo95gst View Post
Join the OCD club. I have a 2005 Acura with almost 150k miles and not a single issue and the car still looks great.
That's awesome! .

Again, thank you for the help and continued feedback, my friend. Yeah, I decided to take it to the shop tomorrow. If it doesn't correct itself after a few drives today, I'm taking it off even though I wish I could have seen what kind of difference it could have made.
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      07-15-2014, 01:14 PM   #50
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Have you looked into Bavarian Technic OBDII scanner tool? I hooked up to your laptop with their proprietary cable and it can read/clear codes for most Bmw's. I used this for my E90 335 and it also worked on my 2013 535 and 2014 550. They don't list it working for the F chassis cars yet but their beta software does work on my car with limited functions. I get a CEL time to time from rough idling and I just plug it into the car to scan/clear it.

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      07-15-2014, 01:36 PM   #51
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Your mechanic should be able to reset easily. I had a DT mal caused by a EGR on my 2014 and simple OBD2 scanner at a non BMW shop reset the fault.

I also believe he removed way too many things. I stuck my hand in there and helped my neighbor zip tie the wires without removing the metal bar. It actually took less time than my diesel and the diesel was 15min on the first try.
Honestly, drive around, turn off the car, turn it back on again and it will go away.
You also have a dummy plug that you can plug into chip and it will go back to stock without pulling everything off. I wish you were closer here so I can do it for you. I am not mechanically advanced, but I learned from other great forum members and now I feel comfortable working on my F10 m5.
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      07-15-2014, 01:44 PM   #52
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Hope this works from my cell.....
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      07-15-2014, 02:13 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greentrbo95gst View Post
Your mechanic should be able to reset easily. I had a DT mal caused by a EGR on my 2014 and simple OBD2 scanner at a non BMW shop reset the fault.

I also believe he removed way too many things. I stuck my hand in there and helped my neighbor zip tie the wires without removing the metal bar. It actually took less time than my diesel and the diesel was 15min on the first try.
Honestly, drive around, turn off the car, turn it back on again and it will go away.
You also have a dummy plug that you can plug into chip and it will go back to stock without pulling everything off. I wish you were closer here so I can do it for you. I am not mechanically advanced, but I learned from other great forum members and now I feel comfortable working on my F10 m5.
Yeah the OBD2 tablet plugged in. He did it in front of me twice when we installed. It didn't work both times. I'll try the dummy plug suggestion and see if that helps. Thanks for the info, buddy .
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      07-15-2014, 02:15 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan l. View Post
Have you looked into Bavarian Technic OBDII scanner tool? I hooked up to your laptop with their proprietary cable and it can read/clear codes for most Bmw's. I used this for my E90 335 and it also worked on my 2013 535 and 2014 550. They don't list it working for the F chassis cars yet but their beta software does work on my car with limited functions. I get a CEL time to time from rough idling and I just plug it into the car to scan/clear it.

Alan
I got my car remotely coded so I have an OBD2 cable. Where would I find this tool? Can anyone remotely clear this for me? Thanks
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      07-15-2014, 03:19 PM   #55
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I don't think you can use this remotely. It vin locks to your car once you use it for the first time.

http://www.burgertuning.com/scanner.html

I'm sure other vendors sells this too. good to have if you like to troubleshoot things yourself. I use it because i like to know whats going on with my cars.

Alan
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      07-15-2014, 03:38 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by Alan l. View Post
I don't think you can use this remotely. It vin locks to your car once you use it for the first time.

http://www.burgertuning.com/scanner.html

I'm sure other vendors sells this too. good to have if you like to troubleshoot things yourself. I use it because i like to know whats going on with my cars.

Alan
Thanks for the link, Alan. Seems like a handy tool. I'm just thinking if it's worth ordering. Do you know their refund policy?
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      07-15-2014, 03:47 PM   #57
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Dude, don't take this personally please, but all I did on mine was followed instructions that came with the box and it has pictures as well as step by step install. I myself don't even do oil changes but instructions were so easy that I did it myself in 20 mins without removing any of the parts your mechanic moved. I don't know him, but based on what you are saying and the pictures he does not have experience with bmws. It looked like you were getting ready for a full motor swap or something. I shoved my hands down there, unplugged the plugs, plugged the unit, zip tied the box and problem solved. The instruction manual comes with explanation how to set up the settings as well. Your frustration with this product made me so frustrated that I had to go outside and had a smoke. It's really easy dude. If the dummy plug doesn't work, then your mechanic screwed up on the install. The plug puts it back to factory settings. Once again, no disrespect.

Good Luck!
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      07-15-2014, 07:02 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by SF_E60 View Post
Dude, don't take this personally please, but all I did on mine was followed instructions that came with the box and it has pictures as well as step by step install. I myself don't even do oil changes but instructions were so easy that I did it myself in 20 mins without removing any of the parts your mechanic moved. I don't know him, but based on what you are saying and the pictures he does not have experience with bmws. It looked like you were getting ready for a full motor swap or something. I shoved my hands down there, unplugged the plugs, plugged the unit, zip tied the box and problem solved. The instruction manual comes with explanation how to set up the settings as well. Your frustration with this product made me so frustrated that I had to go outside and had a smoke. It's really easy dude. If the dummy plug doesn't work, then your mechanic screwed up on the install. The plug puts it back to factory settings. Once again, no disrespect.

Good Luck!
None taken at all. He has rather large hands and seems to like working with more space. I could fit my hands in there and probably wiggle the plugs if I tried. We just didn't know initially where the sensors were. He couldn't see them without removing the bar, so that's why he did it. From his perspective, I guess he wanted to be safe than sorry in case something snagged or got pulled...then he would be responsible. You make valid points. I'm going to try the dummy plug now and see if it helps. The instructions are straightforward; I actually followed them as I told him what it said and what we were looking for when we started. The 5.0i layout is just very different from the the 3.5 engines. Which color wire did you use? Did you use the same red striped wire? I was given two of them - a red one and a pink one. See my pics in the first page. Thanks for your post .

Also, regarding the DUMMY PLUG guys...I just plugged it in. Do I leave the car off? What should I do after I plug in the dummy plug? Do I remove it and then put that plug back into the TUNE CHIP?

Nevermind, tried both methods. Method 1) Car was off while I went out of town this afternoon. I came back home popped the hood, locked the car, removed the plug harness from the tune chip and plugged the dummy plug into the plug harness. Then removed it and plugged the harness back into the Tune Chip. Drivetrain Malfunction starts up with the engine. Method 2) I waited a few minutes, popped the hood, locked the car, and this time I put the dummy plug into the plug harness and kept it that way, turned on the engine, Drivetrain Malfunction still present, but the engine power sounded much less as if it was suffocating or powering down, so I immediately turned the engine off after 30 seconds of listening to it. I plugged the plug harness back into the tune chip and closed the hood. So basically, something is definitely screwed up.
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      07-15-2014, 08:20 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opasha View Post
None taken at all. He has rather large hands and seems to like working with more space. I could fit my hands in there and probably wiggle the plugs if I tried. We just didn't know initially where the sensors were. He couldn't see them without removing the bar, so that's why he did it. From his perspective, I guess he wanted to be safe than sorry in case something snagged or got pulled...then he would be responsible. You make valid points. I'm going to try the dummy plug now and see if it helps. The instructions are straightforward; I actually followed them as I told him what it said and what we were looking for when we started. The 5.0i layout is just very different from the the 3.5 engines. Which color wire did you use? Did you use the same red striped wire? I was given two of them - a red one and a pink one. See my pics in the first page. Thanks for your post .

Also, regarding the DUMMY PLUG guys...I just plugged it in. Do I leave the car off? What should I do after I plug in the dummy plug? Do I remove it and then put that plug back into the TUNE CHIP?

Nevermind, tried both methods. Method 1) Car was off while I went out of town this afternoon. I came back home popped the hood, locked the car, removed the plug harness from the tune chip and plugged the dummy plug into the plug harness. Then removed it and plugged the harness back into the Tune Chip. Drivetrain Malfunction starts up with the engine. Method 2) I waited a few minutes, popped the hood, locked the car, and this time I put the dummy plug into the plug harness and kept it that way, turned on the engine, Drivetrain Malfunction still present, but the engine power sounded much less as if it was suffocating or powering down, so I immediately turned the engine off after 30 seconds of listening to it. I plugged the plug harness back into the tune chip and closed the hood. So basically, something is definitely screwed up.
You would have to leave the dummy plug in the box when you start up the car. It overrides whatever the tune delivers.

They sent you two different harnesses because 50i and 35i use two different types of plugs on 2014 cars. I was chatting with a BMW engineer from Spartanburg about this. Apparently, the manufacturer of those plugs did not deliver the quality BMW wanted and they had to switch the source and type of plugs mid year.
Once you unplug your harness you will see what type is yours and you have to match it to either 4720 or the other one....I dont remember the number.
If your DT Mal does not go away with the dummy plug in then the install is wrong.
Take a picture of your box with the dummy plug in and make sure the plastic clip is all the way in.
I just tested it on my truck and it works fine.
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      07-15-2014, 08:57 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greentrbo95gst View Post
You would have to leave the dummy plug in the box when you start up the car. It overrides whatever the tune delivers.

They sent you two different harnesses because 50i and 35i use two different types of plugs on 2014 cars. I was chatting with a BMW engineer from Spartanburg about this. Apparently, the manufacturer of those plugs did not deliver the quality BMW wanted and they had to switch the source and type of plugs mid year.
Once you unplug your harness you will see what type is yours and you have to match it to either 4720 or the other one....I dont remember the number.
If your DT Mal does not go away with the dummy plug in then the install is wrong.
Take a picture of your box with the dummy plug in and make sure the plastic clip is all the way in.
I just tested it on my truck and it works fine.
Ok, I did that in method 2 above and it sounded like the car engine was trying to power down if that makes any sense. It didn't go away so it looks like something is not installed right. I'll get it all checked tomorrow when I go to my auto shop. Thanks for all the feedback, help, and details from everyone.
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      07-15-2014, 09:44 PM   #61
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Have you tried starting @ square 1. Remove everything and put it back to stock? I know you said it was 60 bucks, but I would think that after seeing it installed you can remove it. The practice wouldn't hurt either.

Maybe try it in stock config and see if you light will clear.?
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      07-15-2014, 09:52 PM   #62
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@opasha, I believe connecting the dummy plug is the same as unplugging the whole thing.
If I don't get it wrong, it is pretty much just rerouting the original signal to the original destination, not through any circuit.
You may want to drive the car with that dummy plug connected, and it should put away the Drivetrain malfunction error away after a few minutes.

Here is what on their website.

"The serial plug is for checking the proper installation and to set your vehicle back to its serial condition without having to remove the complete wire harness. Only connect the serial plug to the wire harness instead to the box. Now your vehicle is set back to its serial condition again."
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      07-15-2014, 10:38 PM   #63
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@opasha, I believe connecting the dummy plug is the same as unplugging the whole thing.
If I don't get it wrong, it is pretty much just rerouting the original signal to the original destination, not through any circuit.
You may want to drive the car with that dummy plug connected, and it should put away the Drivetrain malfunction error away after a few minutes.

Here is what on their website.

"The serial plug is for checking the proper installation and to set your vehicle back to its serial condition without having to remove the complete wire harness. Only connect the serial plug to the wire harness instead to the box. Now your vehicle is set back to its serial condition again."
This is the exact idea I was thinking, Ben. I did the dummy plug only while it was sitting in the garage started. I will drive it tonight with the dummy plug and see if this gets rid of it. Thanks.
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      07-15-2014, 10:42 PM   #64
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This is the exact idea I was thinking, Ben. I did the dummy plug only while it was sitting in the garage started. I will drive it tonight with the dummy plug and see if this gets rid of it. Thanks.
dude, you are making us sit on needles here. Go drive now.
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      07-15-2014, 10:58 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by greentrbo95gst View Post
dude, you are making us sit on needles here. Go drive now.
I just did after I wrote that. I plugged in the Dummy Plug into the plug harness, secured it next to the race tune chip a little below so it would not move and went driving. Drivetrain Malfunction present at engine start up still, but the car wasn't idling like earlier or shaking as I had mentioned before. I took it out of the garage and started in Comfort mode. Here's the issue, I drove around the neigborhood at varying speeds under 40mph and then went up to 60-65 on the main road and around another neighborhood at lower speeds and then back again on the main road and back home. Towards the end of the main road, I switched to Sport mode and drove home in my neighborhood in Sport mode. The problem is still there and I can tell the car isn't jumping like it usually does in Comfort mode - there is a real lag and inability to reach 0-60 as fast as it usually does almost like a slow uphill battle. Obviously, this changes in Sport Mode, it IS faster and more responsive but not the same as before. It's like it won't go past a certain RPM range if that makes sense. From what I saw it stayed below 3 despite flooring it. Throughout this whole drive and until I parked my car in the garage, the Orange Triangle of Death (Drivetrain Malfunction) and CEL (Check Engine Light) remained on my dashboard display . Right now, I'm just letting it sit overnight with the Dummy Plug. I will take it to the shop tomorrow morning and take it off completely to see if that changes anything, use their OBD equipment again to try to clear it if the Drivetrain Malfunction persists and then quickly try the other sensor wires (pink one with grey clips). The RaceChip guy said both CAN fit with enough muscle, but my mechanic showed me the ridges on the red one that supposedly fit securely/properly into the TMAP sensors. The pink one didn't have those ridges. Anyway, thank you again for this thread discussion and trying to help everyone. I hate being THAT guy that ends up scaring people away from something solid. Just bad luck I guess. I really was looking forward to the wonders this was going to do for my car especially after @42pilot said he liked his after his thorough testing in the diesel thread. I'll keep you posted tomorrow.
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      07-16-2014, 04:39 PM   #66
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