F15 N63TU Crankcase Ventilation Assembly Replacement Guide

[NERO X]

Originally Posted by HydroStream6

Cheaper alternative for the smaller hose here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-BMW-Cra...f-6d699a064666

For the larger hose, get some heater hose or vacuum hose with the correct diameter and cut to length and use hose clamps. I did these two methods for mine and so far, so good.

FWIW I'd investigate and get the larger hose and the smaller hose above before you start working so you're prepared. You'll most likely break both when you repair the other.

Thanks for the advise.

My friendly neighborhood dealer said BMW won't cover my MY2014(out of warranty) hoses, but would give me a 30% discount and only charge me $950! LOL. Got love the Bimmer service costs. Also quoted 5.5 hrs. LOL to that too! Guess I'll be doing it myself.

[~ViO~]

Originally Posted by NERO X

Thanks for the advise.

My friendly neighborhood dealer said BMW won't cover my MY2014(out of warranty) hoses, but would give me a 30% discount and only charge me $950! LOL. Got love the Bimmer service costs. Also quoted 5.5 hrs. LOL to that too! Guess I'll be doing it myself.

I would call BMW of North America.. They have helped out other forum members when the dealership tries to stonewall warranty work.. This is a legit extended warranty issued by BMW and good for 10 years or 120miles.

[HydroStream6]

Originally Posted by ~ViO~

I would call BMW of North America.. They have helped out other forum members when the dealership tries to stonewall warranty work.. This is a legit extended warranty issued by BMW and good for 10 years or 120miles.

I called BOA as well and they told me to pound sand. Tried a couple different times as well.

[~ViO~]

Originally Posted by HydroStream6

I called BOA as well and they told me to pound sand. Tried a couple different times as well.

Really, and what was their excuse? Did your build date not fall within what was listed on the 10-year extended warranty? Just so i understand.... BMW issues a 10-year extended warranty and you meet all the criteria.... And they tell you to pound sand. . I would file a complaint.

*I would print the following and take it to the dealership;

https://testing-public.carmd.com/Tsb...0B01%2012%2018

[HydroStream6]

They said my vehicle was not built on a production line that was affected. They said even though it was the same vehicle model and same part number for the hoses, not all production lines were covered. Total bs of course, but it is what it is. I fixed it for less than $50 myself, and my time arguing with them is worth more to me than that.

[NERO X]

I also gave up on BOA; they told me that they would back whatever the dealer told me. Dealer wanted $130 to diagnose the broken hoses, but did give me a $1300 orig. quote reduced to $950 discounted rate for both hoses. Fixed them both myself for $300. Easy fix.

[Gkacmaz]

Guys my car started having subtle vibrations it's at 70k right now and I ordered plugs and coil packs from FCP Euro, while attempting to to change them I noticed the connecting hose for the crank case assembly is broken as well (car was also having like a whistle noise at idle). I bought a connecting hose and installed it with the new Coil packs and the plugs. The car still had a check engine light and rougher idle. Can a faulty crank case assembly cause this issue?

[AychShake]

Hi guys, long shot here but does anyone know if there is a similar warranty in Australia? I haven't been able to find a bulletin online and the dealerships don't even know what a crankcase ventilation line is (I kid you not).

[Stuka Mensch]

Thank you so much for this post my warranty was only going to cover the MAF sensors that got ruined by these leaking and I found this post and the dealership took responsibility and said they're covering it all.

[kiel9]

This write up was so helpful replacing the vent pipe in my 2014 50i X5.

I’d just like to add that a few of the fasteners were different than in the photos you showed. The screws shown in the 2nd photo were actually two torx screws and the one on the right was an external torx. For that one, I didn’t have the proper socket, but a regular 6mm (I think) socket did the trick. Also, that external torx couldn’t be removed on my car without first taking off a nearby electrical clip. I think the hardest part of the whole job was getting that clip off. It took me a while to figure out how to lever out the blue tab so it could be removed.

Also, the dealer wanted $188 for the vent pipe, so I chose this $50 version I found on Amazon. It clipped in great and seems to be working fine.

Oh, and my car didn’t qualify for the free fix from the dealer. I think that only applies to a small run of vehicles from a specific production line. It’s still worth a call to your dealer to see if yours does qualify though, they can look it up in 2 minutes.

Thx again for the write up.

Motiv8 Crankcase PCV Breather Hose Connecting Line for 2013-2018 BMW X5 X6 for 4.4L Engine - Crank Case Ventilation PCV Valve Emission Hose | 11158635842, 11157646724, 11158647298, EMH290 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086H4H89M...ing=UTF8&psc=1

[FirstBMWLA]

Anyone know if this applies to S63 as well?
I have a 2016 X5M. Thinking may have a leak here.
Does this leak trip 20E120 code "pcv vent faulty or disconnected"?

[MY15.50i]

Originally Posted by alphaod

Note (07/04/2019):
Went to dealer for service yesterday, found this little comment:


So there you have it, if you are within 10 years or 120,000 mi go to the dealer for a replacement. Don’t waste your hard earned monies doing this DIY.

F15 N63TU Crankcase Ventilation Assembly Replacement Guide

After reading about the problem with our ventilation hoses and mine had a small crack, I decided to replace mine and document the process. There is a DIY - 50i Spark Plugs guide by Maverik259 that you may want to follow if you wish to do your spark plugs service as well since both involve removing common parts.

I created this one to address some issues I encountered and to help future DIY fixers.

If you wish to only fix the commonly broken connection hose, stop at step #4.

Parts needed:
11-15-8-647-962 "Vent Pipe" (It's a big contraption with valves and everything)
11-15-8-647-298 "Connecting Line" (The part that commonly breaks first)

Tools needed:
3/8" Socket wrench
Torx T30 socket
8mm Hex Socket
Short socket wrench extension
Needlenose pliers

Safely precautions:
Safety glasses
Work gloves
Adequate lighting

Warning:
Because you are working inside the engine bay please ensure that your engine block is cooled down. Because many of the plastic parts used by BMW have become brittle (the reason we are replacing these hoses), it is very likely for the parts to break into small sharp pieces during removal process therefore use of eye protection and gloves are highly suggested.

Note:
In all directions of left and right are relative to you as you work from front of the car facing the engine. All screws are Torx T30 except when indicated.


Step 1:
Remove the rear engine cover.



Step 2:
First we start with the commonly broken connecting hose. As the left side expansion tank is covering the connecting hose plug, you need to move it out of the way. Start with left side and remove the screws shown. After the hex screw is removed you can lift up the expansion tank and move it out of the way as its hoses are all flexible.



Step 3:
Remove remaining screw holding the expansion tank bracket and lift the expansion tank adapter out of the way. You should now be able to see the connecting hose to the engine.



Step 4:
Follow this hose to see the engine side. The hose is held to the engine with two clips and looks the same on both ends. According to the design of the connector you are suppose to depress the two sides that are grooved to force the clips to move away so you can pull the connector off. I have found this is impossible because (1) the plastic is brittle (2) there isn’t much room to work with. For optional instruction, please go to Step X below.



Step 5:
Now we work on the ventilation valve assembly.



Step 6:
We now go the right side of the engine. We start by removing the screws.



Step 7:
To remove the valve assembly, first lift up the wire holder assembly and rotate the right side valve clock-wise approximately 30º; then lift up to remove. It is keyed so you need to rotate it and the holder is in the way. It will be very easy to remove when the key is in the notch in the engine. Do not forcibly remove; you do not want to try to retrieve broken plastic in your engine.



Step 8:
On the left side the steps are the same, except you need to rotate the connector approximately 30º counter-clockwise before you can pull the connector out.





Step 9:
Remove the connectors to the intake hoses. These are the same connectors as the connecting hose just bigger in size.



Step 10:
You have now removed the valve assembly and ready to installation of the replacement part. Follow this guide in the reverse.



Step X:
If you cannot remove these types of connector locks, you may need to employ the destructive method. WARNING: You cannot reuse the connector if you do this.



Before:



After:

Almost done replacing mine but hit a snag while connecting the new assembly to the intake hoses. The connectors won't snap into place no matter how hard I try to push. Any ideas?

[MY15.50i]

Originally Posted by MY15.50i

Almost done replacing mine but hit a snag while connecting the new assembly to the intake hoses. The connectors won't snap into place no matter how hard I try to push. Any ideas?

Turns out there's so much you can push them in and they just won't snap in place. I had to hammer the clips with a mallet to get them past the plastic notch to secure them. Drove until engine reached operating temperature and didn't experience any issues.

[bigshooter]

Originally Posted by alphaod

Note (07/04/2019):
Went to dealer for service yesterday, found this little comment:

So there you have it, if you are within 10 years or 120,000 mi go to the dealer for a replacement. Don't waste your hard earned monies doing this DIY.

[SIZE="4"]F15 N63TU Crankcase Ventilation Assembly Replacement Guide[/SIZE]
[SIZE="3"]
After reading about the problem with our ventilation hoses and mine had a small crack, I decided to replace mine and document the process. There is a DIY - 50i Spark Plugs guide by Maverik259 that you may want to follow if you wish to do your spark plugs service as well since both involve removing common parts.

I created this one to address some issues I encountered and to help future DIY fixers.

If you wish to only fix the commonly broken connection hose, stop at step #4.

Parts needed:
11-15-8-647-962 "Vent Pipe" (It's a big contraption with valves and everything)
11-15-8-647-298 "Connecting Line" (The part that commonly breaks first)

Tools needed:
3/8" Socket wrench
Torx T30 socket
8mm Hex Socket
Short socket wrench extension
Needlenose pliers

Safely precautions:
Safety glasses
Work gloves
Adequate lighting

Warning:
Because you are working inside the engine bay please ensure that your engine block is cooled down. Because many of the plastic parts used by BMW have become brittle (the reason we are replacing these hoses), it is very likely for the parts to break into small sharp pieces during removal process therefore use of eye protection and gloves are highly suggested.

Note:
In all directions of left and right are relative to you as you work from front of the car facing the engine. All screws are Torx T30 except when indicated.


Step 1:
Remove the rear engine cover.



Step 2:
First we start with the commonly broken connecting hose. As the left side expansion tank is covering the connecting hose plug, you need to move it out of the way. Start with left side and remove the screws shown. After the hex screw is removed you can lift up the expansion tank and move it out of the way as its hoses are all flexible.



Step 3:
Remove remaining screw holding the expansion tank bracket and lift the expansion tank adapter out of the way. You should now be able to see the connecting hose to the engine.



Step 4:
Follow this hose to see the engine side. The hose is held to the engine with two clips and looks the same on both ends. According to the design of the connector you are suppose to depress the two sides that are grooved to force the clips to move away so you can pull the connector off. I have found this is impossible because (1) the plastic is brittle (2) there isn't much room to work with. For optional instruction, please go to Step X below.



Step 5:
Now we work on the ventilation valve assembly.



Step 6:
We now go the right side of the engine. We start by removing the screws.



Step 7:
To remove the valve assembly, first lift up the wire holder assembly and rotate the right side valve clock-wise approximately 30º; then lift up to remove. It is keyed so you need to rotate it and the holder is in the way. It will be very easy to remove when the key is in the notch in the engine. Do not forcibly remove; you do not want to try to retrieve broken plastic in your engine.



Step 8:
On the left side the steps are the same, except you need to rotate the connector approximately 30º counter-clockwise before you can pull the connector out.





Step 9:
Remove the connectors to the intake hoses. These are the same connectors as the connecting hose just bigger in size.



Step 10:
You have now removed the valve assembly and ready to installation of the replacement part. Follow this guide in the reverse.



Step X:
If you cannot remove these types of connector locks, you may need to employ the destructive method. WARNING: You cannot reuse the connector if you do this.



Before:



After:

[/SIZE]

I don't see a leak though? Where does it usually leak to create the burning oil odor?

[Chilled]

Yep this the same for the S63, here is mine done.

The valve side is keyed, its a twist to unlock and a twist to lock. Clockwise to unlock from valve cover, and counter to lock back in. When you insert the PCV into the valve cover, it needs to sit flush prior to you turning. So the pipe need to be 90° to the valve cover, otherwise it wont go in correctly.

Notice the tabs on the pipe, and the valve cover. Also see the connector side, for what the clips look like.

[d_3vans]

why can't I see pictures

[bmwx5er]

alphaod - the pics are no longer available; any chance you can reupload them?

[ArthurMorgan]

One thing I would add to this write-up: be extremely careful when you remove and re-install the quick connect where it snaps onto the intake tube. That elbow is VERY poorly attached to the rest of the intake tube and it can very easily snap off. Replacing that intake tube is balls, so it's better to just not break it in the first place.

The write-up mentions "lifting up" the wire guide that runs on top of the engine. At least on my 2017 S63 (which do have different CCV tubes than the N63), that is not at all possible. You must remove the screws and push the wire guide back and out of the way.

Really easy job, just made annoying by BMW's typical paper mache underhood plastic. I do agree that this is a great time to change the plugs because you're down in the same area anyway.

[Dan_Q]

Question for those of you who've done this. I'm about to do plugs and coils on my '15 50i with 72k miles. I don't have any faults that would indicate I've got this issue, but it sounds like it may be wise to replace these preventatively at the same time. Also possible I'll break them in the process of doing the plugs & coils if they aren't broken already. GetBMWparts lists the pair of these at ~$380.

• Do the plugs & coils and replace these at the same time myself?
• Do the plugs and coils and if the CCV breaks in the process, bring it to the dealer for replacement?

[mertK]

Hi,

New here. Great post! Is there any way to recover the images to the post?

Thanks

[Bobby_Drake]

Originally Posted by Chilled

Yep this the same for the S63, here is mine done.

The valve side is keyed, its a twist to unlock and a twist to lock. Clockwise to unlock from valve cover, and counter to lock back in. When you insert the PCV into the valve cover, it needs to sit flush prior to you turning. So the pipe need to be 90° to the valve cover, otherwise it wont go in correctly.

Notice the tabs on the pipe, and the valve cover. Also see the connector side, for what the clips look like.

Do you have the part # for the F85 X5M?

[zeroping]

Originally Posted by Bobby_Drake

Do you have the part # for the F85 X5M?

BMW-11157848340 and BMW-11157848341