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      04-09-2015, 09:23 PM   #1
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RaceChip CEL

Today has been the warmest day of the new year, and the warmest since I bought the RC ultimate - the dash indicated 90. I drove a mile to the post office and, pop - CEL. I had the DashCommand and wifi OBDII with me, and found the codes to be Fuel Rail Pressure Limit and code P26B1. I am running S2=0 S1=2. I connected the dummy plug and the fuel rail code went away. Now I have the P26B1 still tripping. Hmmmm...

With the 02 setting, I probably have 1000 miles on it. The only thing different today is higher ambient temp. If I can get the other code to drop, I'll drop the setting to F2 and see what happens.

Stay tuned... (sorry for the really bad pun)
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      04-10-2015, 02:09 PM   #2
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Thanks for the update - please keep us informed as to your solution
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      04-10-2015, 08:58 PM   #3
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The CEL is still lit with the dummy plug. I called RC and they said remove the complete harness and see if it goes out. If it does, the harness is faulty (from heat, moisture, vibrations, etc) and if needed, they would replace under warranty.

At the same time, I shared my setting with the rep and he said that was too high and not recommended. I've spoken to this rep in the past and discussed what could be done, but never heard him say a setting was too high and not recommended. He asked that I reduce S1 to 1 at least, and even better, back to stock - 0.

I asked if they ever followed the BMW forums and he said they did, but they no longer get involved in discussions - too many opinions and he said, as a manufacturer, they never prevail. Even though it's their product. He said therefore, the only official recommendation is the setting it shipped with. To which I said, then why the setting choices??

Anyway, I am more concerned about getting rid of the CEL right now.
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      04-11-2015, 06:53 AM   #4
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The setting was too high and not recommended for your D or for any engine? If it is not recommended then why would they allow the settings for potential problems I wonder.
I was thinking about getting RC but things like this sways me away from it.
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      04-11-2015, 09:09 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kzang View Post
The setting was too high and not recommended for your D or for any engine? If it is not recommended then why would they allow the settings for potential problems I wonder.
I was thinking about getting RC but things like this sways me away from it.
Per RaceChip, on the phone, they don't recommend any other setting than what it's shipped with. So I assume it's for any engine. When I asked why so many choices, they said it's for engines that perform poorly from the factory - not sure how you know that driving away from the dealer.

I deleted the code today and hooked it back up. The CEL hasn't returned, but I will probably turn it down anyway because there isn't that big of a performance difference - at least not that I can tell in normal driving. However the difference between stock and chipped is significant. I wouldn't discount getting this chip.
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      04-13-2015, 09:10 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 42pilot View Post
Per RaceChip, on the phone, they don't recommend any other setting than what it's shipped with. So I assume it's for any engine. When I asked why so many choices, they said it's for engines that perform poorly from the factory - not sure how you know that driving away from the dealer.

I deleted the code today and hooked it back up. The CEL hasn't returned, but I will probably turn it down anyway because there isn't that big of a performance difference - at least not that I can tell in normal driving. However the difference between stock and chipped is significant. I wouldn't discount getting this chip.
I have been running at 03 per your suggestion for the last 2500 miles. Did you see a big difference between 03 and F3? I have not run these settings in any hot temps yet and want to avoid CELs. F3 is the recommended Performance Level 2 setting in their manual so I was thinking of dropping to that to be safe but remember reading that you thought the throttle response was much better in the 0 setting. What do you think.
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      04-13-2015, 09:59 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojanlaw View Post
I have been running at 03 per your suggestion for the last 2500 miles. Did you see a big difference between 03 and F3? I have not run these settings in any hot temps yet and want to avoid CELs. F3 is the recommended Performance Level 2 setting in their manual so I was thinking of dropping to that to be safe but remember reading that you thought the throttle response was much better in the 0 setting. What do you think.
Hi

Two things here. First, I didn't like the sound of the engine at F3 as it was my opinion the fuel timing was too advanced and I was hearing the pinging of pre-ignition. When I turned it back, the noise went away.

As for the second point, I specifically asked Paul at RC customer service about the F3 recommendation and he said RC would never recommend that setting. I said I heard it was in writing and he said, not from RC - it may have come from a reseller, but not RC. Since I have never seen how this was written, I couldn't specifically speak to it. Do you have a copy of the recommendation? It would be interesting to send it to Paul for his opinion and get this cleared up.
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      04-13-2015, 12:30 PM   #8
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Well, usually the manufacturer always only recommend the default settings.
But, there is a writing in the installation guide that you can raise the power gain by adjusting the dial with 1.5% gain per click.
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      04-13-2015, 12:39 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r33_RGSport View Post
Well, usually the manufacturer always only recommend the default settings.
But, there is a writing in the installation guide that you can raise the power gain by adjusting the dial with 1.5% gain per click.
Hmm - but it doesn't say it is or is not recommended. Since the manual states there is a power gain to be had it leads us to believe they (Racechip) approve. Well now we know.- it is change the setting from stock as your own risk.
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      04-13-2015, 01:07 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjbender View Post
Hmm - but it doesn't say it is or is not recommended. Since the manual states there is a power gain to be had it leads us to believe they (Racechip) approve. Well now we know.- it is change the setting from stock as your own risk.
True. But, with the technology we have on our car, it will give you CEL or put the car into a limp mode when you have gone too far before it become damaging. Also, keep in mind that there are also other variables that may cause that CEL, such as; bad fuel, altitude change, ambience, etc.
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      04-13-2015, 02:13 PM   #11
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If I went with the BMS stage 1 tune would this reduce the issues triggering CEL since I am not able to adjust the power rating?
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      04-13-2015, 03:16 PM   #12
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42pilot, I've heard of several people using Dash Command getting CEL's with those codes and freaking out to the point of shutting the engine while moving on the freeway.
As soon as Dash Command was removed the car went back to normal. Can't confirm whether this is your issue, but just another idea.
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      04-13-2015, 04:39 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greentrbo95gst View Post
42pilot, I've heard of several people using Dash Command getting CEL's with those codes and freaking out to the point of shutting the engine while moving on the freeway.
As soon as Dash Command was removed the car went back to normal. Can't confirm whether this is your issue, but just another idea.
I guess anything is possible. After the car threw the CEL, I looked at it with DashCommand, then removed it from the OBD - short drive. After two days of looking at a CEL, I installed DC again and wiped the codes and the CEL went out. I lowered my setting to 01 and so far it's good.
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      04-13-2015, 05:32 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 42pilot View Post
Hi

Two things here. First, I didn't like the sound of the engine at F3 as it was my opinion the fuel timing was too advanced and I was hearing the pinging of pre-ignition. When I turned it back, the noise went away.

As for the second point, I specifically asked Paul at RC customer service about the F3 recommendation and he said RC would never recommend that setting. I said I heard it was in writing and he said, not from RC - it may have come from a reseller, but not RC. Since I have never seen how this was written, I couldn't specifically speak to it. Do you have a copy of the recommendation? It would be interesting to send it to Paul for his opinion and get this cleared up.
I have posted a picture of the actual page on one of my previous posts. It is definitely from RC.
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      04-13-2015, 07:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kzang
If I went with the BMS stage 1 tune would this reduce the issues triggering CEL since I am not able to adjust the power rating?
Correct.
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      04-13-2015, 08:41 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trojanlaw View Post
I have posted a picture of the actual page on one of my previous posts. It is definitely from RC.
Nice - I'll find it and call him on it. Bazinga....
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      04-13-2015, 10:36 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kzang View Post
If I went with the BMS stage 1 tune would this reduce the issues triggering CEL since I am not able to adjust the power rating?
Quote:
Originally Posted by r33_RGSport View Post
Correct.
My service advisor said the same....never seen a CEL with Burger.
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      04-14-2015, 09:02 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kzang View Post
If I went with the BMS stage 1 tune would this reduce the issues triggering CEL since I am not able to adjust the power rating?
Reduce? Not sure. But since there aren't any adjustments, if it does throw a CEL, you have only one choice - unplug it. Would you be ok with using that?
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      04-14-2015, 10:48 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 42pilot View Post
Reduce? Not sure. But since there aren't any adjustments, if it does throw a CEL, you have only one choice - unplug it. Would you be ok with using that?
Increasing the boost over the recommended setting with the RC and presumably the warmer weather is what has caused your CEL.. no?

With the BMS and only one setting ( no changes or possible variables in settings ) would likely reduce any issues with the check engine lights.. please correct me if I am wrong.

I have never had any experience with tune chips so I am just trying to decide on which one to get. One of the issues of preventing me from getting it is the CEL issues I have been reading about.

Thanks.

Last edited by Kzang; 04-14-2015 at 11:24 AM..
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      04-14-2015, 11:41 AM   #20
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42pilot Kzang let me clarify this.
Both RaceChip and BMS are good product.
Some user prefer a peace of mind with a simple power increase, I do suggest BMS Stage 1 since it is preset on the power gain. While with RaceChip, you can also do the same thing if you can refrain yourself from changing the dial and experiment with it.
Some user prefer ability to tweak the settings to gain more than the default setting, that's when RaceChip Ultimate and BMS JB4 come into place. While the JB4, have much more flexibility and control to the engine due to the extra data collected from the CAN bus.
It is similar on your computer preference. If you want something fix and you can just leave it alone, MS Windows is the best to have. While for you that like to customize and optimize your computer, then Linux or other OpenSource OS would be best since you can built your own kernel and customize the whole thing. The downside, you may kill your hardware if you did it wrong.
I hope this clears things up.
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      04-14-2015, 12:34 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 42pilot View Post
Hi

Two things here. First, I didn't like the sound of the engine at F3 as it was my opinion the fuel timing was too advanced and I was hearing the pinging of pre-ignition. When I turned it back, the noise went away.

As for the second point, I specifically asked Paul at RC customer service about the F3 recommendation and he said RC would never recommend that setting. I said I heard it was in writing and he said, not from RC - it may have come from a reseller, but not RC. Since I have never seen how this was written, I couldn't specifically speak to it. Do you have a copy of the recommendation? It would be interesting to send it to Paul for his opinion and get this cleared up.
Here is the page from the booklet that came with my RC. Since the factory settings were E0, the bottom grouping applies.
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      04-14-2015, 09:47 PM   #22
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Kzang my friend had JB4 and it melted his battery cables twice, he has Racechip now .. Like it has been said none of these piggyback are 100% they all react different on each engine. But the recommended is if you want less likely issues you can get a stage1 tune (aFe scorcher, racechip "stock setting", bms stage 1, etc)
My friend had BMS Stage1 and he was getting drivetrain malfunction at least 3-4x a week he was so tired of it and couldn't get a fix on the forum he sold it. Drivetrain malfunction happen with or without the tune, but seems for him it was cause of it.

I've tried my RC on my petrol engine on extreme levels in the winter and also in my last Dynojet but in warm temps I wouldn't increase mine above F since its already 3 ticks above stock. Also, 42pilot have you asked Racechip Germany?

So all in all the same way a certain map wont run as well for someone with JB4, same goes with RC setting. Trojanlaw I remember that pic
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