12-08-2022, 02:44 PM | #45 |
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Poor F15 has been getting neglected while the other Bimmers have been getting attention. So got it in to get some work done as the rear pads were indicating low life left on iDrive. They were about 5mm and had not tripped the sensor yet. Took a long time to finish due to the painting, but whatever. We love the look of the VHT Burnt Copper. Brakes would be a 2.5hr job otherwise.
11/11 - 11/19/2022 - Oil change Pentosin HiPo II 5w40 - PEN-8042206 $44.39 - Oil filter change Mahle - MAH-OX404DECO $15.29 - Replaced front and rear brakes, rotors/pads/clips. Reused sensors as neither had tripped. I did buy sensors just in case I damaged them though. I used the same brand I always use, Brakemotive. I suspect these are just rebranded Powerstops as the ceramic pads carry Powerstop part numbers. At any rate, they perform well and the price is unbeatable. - BM9987004458-E70 $224.92 - Painted brake calipers and anti rattle clips (new with BM kit). Had paint on hand from previous brake jobs (all our Bimmers get this setup) so did not have any costs associated. But we really enjoy the added flare it gives the vehicle. - $0 Last edited by crystalworks; 10-08-2023 at 02:27 PM.. |
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12-08-2022, 02:47 PM | #46 |
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Drives: BMW X5 XDrive35i
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great color choice for the calipers!
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crystalworks521.50 |
12-08-2022, 04:22 PM | #47 |
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crystalworks - Appreciate that you are continuing to update this thread. I enjoy watching your journey.
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12-08-2022, 04:48 PM | #48 |
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Thanks, the wife and I are hooked on it. I wish I could have gone with a BBK in that color... but want to expand the garage and have a solar install planned for this next year. Priorities.
I try to. Get behind on it sometimes, and sometimes the F15 just flat out behaves itself compared to the others. With an E30, E36, E53, E60, (x2) E61, E70, and the F15... the garage gets plenty of use. |
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12-09-2022, 10:53 AM | #50 |
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Hah! I have the same thing planned with the E60 (bought wrecked, but drives) and one of the E61s. Going to put a 550i drivetrain into a 535xi (bought w/ blown motor). Should be a hoot. You know, when I finish it in 2040. That's the reason for the garage expansion. Want them both in the garage at the same time for the swap. Going to turn our 2 car into a 3 car. Separating what we have now in 60/40 (garage/laundry) and adding 2 bays in front. That's the plan anyway.
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12-09-2022, 07:46 PM | #51 | |
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I’m stripping an e46 m3 vert right now. The recipient of the entire drivetrain will be and e46 sedan. Keeping the narrow body, 17” wheels etc. Lightweight sleeper is the goal. 2040 sounds about right for me too. Back on topic - you didn’t want to put on the dual piston x50i brakes? Kidding, at least that’s what the e70 people do. I’m not sure if this chassis has that option. |
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12-10-2022, 09:28 AM | #52 |
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Great content! I just picked up a 2018 x35d and thought it was just going to be a car for a few months being I came from a truck but it’s growing on me..
Any engine mods in the near future? Ie. Deleting it and all that stuff. It’s my first bimmer and diesel vehicle all at once so been researching a bit. Glad to hear your in San Antonio as well. I’m from further South Texas and out here for work. |
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12-11-2022, 07:24 PM | #53 |
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great posts man. I'm getting myself prepared to a driveline flush on my 50i. Was thinking of doing the rear diff, TC, and tranny. Can I do them all from home without diagnostic tools?
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12-12-2022, 09:02 AM | #54 | |
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You will need a scanner for the transmission service. You have to monitor the temperatures during the fill procedure. The rest you can do without one unless you want to reset the transfer case adaptations. Some ppl do and some don't when changing fluid. |
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12-12-2022, 09:05 AM | #55 | |
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No engine mods planned. Still have 19000 miles left on the extended emissions warranties and high pressure fuel pump. Not going to do anything to jeopardize those. Already had 2 NOX sensors replaced under it. Besides, the wife would not like the extra emissions smell and noise. It's her car really so if she's happy... I'm happy. |
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07-12-2023, 02:48 PM | #56 |
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Greetings, I'm 5 months into new ownership of my very-well-taken-care-of
2014 X5 35d; 75,000 miles currently The original owner had dealer maintenance every time. I began to school-up on the X5 35d, and quickly came up to speed on all the standard issues, and maintenance practices. I too will do my transmission with the kit in the next couple of weeks. I am writing this reply to share with you, a transmission suggestion from another thread that I think may work for your status: Wait about 15,000 miles, and then change you transmission oil AGAIN. This time do not replace pan or filter, simply drain and replace oil, but this time make sure to go through the torque converter run-up, and cycle through all the gears. This will give you the cleanest, freshest possible oil fill. |
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07-12-2023, 04:55 PM | #57 | |
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Agreed on the trans service. Thanks for reminding me. I am at 18k since the first service so might just do that. It's been driving great despite the EGR codes. I have some service to update this thread with and will do so when I have some time... oil change, front driveshaft, and DEF transfer pump. |
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07-23-2023, 02:51 PM | #59 |
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crystalworks hey man! How's the F15 35d compared to the E70 35d? I may be in the market for another X5. I've owned (3) E70 35d's: one great, one bad and one meh. I told myself I would never get into another diesel BMW again. Just curious if the newer gen has similar issues like the previous ones.
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08-14-2023, 10:53 AM | #60 | |
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I need to update this thread with some recent maintenance, but we might be looking to sell ours soon. The wife is still unsure. She loves it but has been driving our E61 wagon lately and enjoys that too. We'll see. |
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08-14-2023, 10:55 AM | #61 |
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Good to know that regardless of gen, BMW diesels are BMW diesels. So I'll be staying away haha.
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09-24-2023, 12:45 PM | #63 |
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Thank you.
Let me try to bring this up to date. Done a bit of maintenance. We're not sure what we are going to do with the vehicle as we are starting to need something with 3 rows (kids + parents). Might actually list it on CarsandBids just for S's and G's. Seems like a cool experience and we wish we would have done it with our last diesel X5. 06/16/23 - Oil change with Liqui Moly Top Tec 4600 and Mahle Filter. KIT-11428507683KT4 $90.41 06/29 - 07/05/2023 - Replace front driveshaft with Febi unit and single use bolts, job took longer because I failed to order bolts which are crazy marked up at the dealer! x4 torx bolts 26117529387 $15.25 & Febi driveshaft 174103 $309.60 PSA!!! BTW, these driveshafts have dropped in price dramatically. Bought mine for $310 and they are now $182. Replace them as part of preventative maintenance! If you are in a salty area, I'd do 80k miles (maybe less). In the south where I am @ 108k miles the shaft was rusty and u-joints were loose. DO NOT PLAY around with front driveshaft as easy and cheap as this is to replace. Driveshaft failure can be dangerous and is always expensive. And here is a comparison shot of the OE shaft vs. the Febi. I made a replacement video and this is a screenshot from it. We've put 2000+ miles on this shaft and it has been great. It could be placebo but both the wife and I feel the X5 drives slightly smoother with the new shaft. Could be our imagination... - Replaced DEF secondary tank transfer pump. BMW wanted $2800 for this! Took about 3 hours. TIS instructs to drop the exhaust. DO NOT drop the exhaust unless you are just anal about bending heat shields. I got my shields bent back to 99% factory look and it saved crazy time. 16197354384 $487.00 09/23/2023 - Replaced coolant changeover valve to cure CEL 2C2200. Fairly easy job. Would have been easier if I had bought replacement Otiker clamps. Side note, I've gotten good at reshaping and reusing Otiker clamps. You will lose about 1.2 gallons of coolant during procedure unless you block off the ports. I did not. 1Gal BMW Coolant 82141467704 $25.69 & BMW Changeover Valve 11538572508 $292.99 Note: Bleeding is easy, don't follow special tool nonsense shown in TIS. Simply top coolant off after finishing the job. Leave reservoir cap open, start engine and allow to reach operative temperature. Rev engine every so often to move air bubbles around. Took about 20 minutes to get most bubbles out. Then go for a drive and monitor coolant temp. Likely you will not see it move from normal as most bubbles were removed before drive. Allow engine to cool and recheck level. Top up (took maybe .1 gallon to top up). Check your coolant level for a week or two as the remaining air bubbles make their way to the reservoir. Easy peasy. Last edited by crystalworks; 10-10-2023 at 02:12 PM.. |
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09-24-2023, 01:51 PM | #64 |
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Appreciate those driveshaft notes. Mine isn’t a spot of rust and 102k. Cali water free life. I could tell a little play in the spline. Did yours have any play in the spline with the new shaft?
Last edited by tlow98; 09-24-2023 at 02:26 PM.. |
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09-25-2023, 10:22 AM | #65 |
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Honestly, you can't tell the condition of the shaft until you drop it. Our original had slight play in it as well. I don't recall tugging on the new one to see if it had the same "play" though. But once I took the old one off the U-joints were very loose. Not clicking or binding yet, but I wasn't going to take any chances. We were about to put 1000+ miles on the X over the next week.
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09-25-2023, 10:37 AM | #66 |
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Thanks for the posts - where did you find the Febi prop shaft for $182? Worth the preventative at that price. Lots of cheap ones on fleabay but I'm always concerned about quality with those.
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