No start No codes

[dentprotony@gmail.com]

Negative/grounding cable maybe ?

[GrayX5D]

Originally Posted by Clifton

If you're using ISTA, there should be fuel filter prime task you can run. My Foxwell NT530 has that option and it primed the new filter without any cranking delay or codes thrown.

Yes I used this feature after I installed the fuel filter. I've now dove into.cleaning the intake and tops of the valves. I'm also.having a shop clean and test my injectors but I can't get one of them out. I'm beginning to hate this vehicle

[GrayX5D]

Originally Posted by dentprotony@gmail.com

Negative/grounding cable maybe ?

I thought of that but I would think that if it were the case that the car wouldn't even try to start and wouldn't I get some kind of code?

[GrayX5D]

UPDATE

Removed all 6 injectors and had them tested. 3 were good, 2 had no fuel at idle, and 1 had no fuel at all. I just replaced those 3 and coded them in using ISTA. Cleaned the intake and around the valves whilst also replacing the glow plugs. Ran the ISTA fuel bleeding and tried to start. Nothing!! Wtf, I'm so done with this thing

[GrayX5D]

So after all this time I finally pulled the engine to do the timing chain since it's at the mileage for it anyway and found the pictured broken bolt off of one of the cam sprockets as you can also see in the picture. I'm guessing that let the engine go slightly out of time causing the sputtering when trying to start. Thank God the other two held on and the chain didn't snap or things would have been catastrophic. Now I get to replace the timing chain and hopefully everything will be good. Has anyone ever seen this before?

[mrrsharma@yahoo.com]

Chain still looks tight. Anyway to remove
The bad bolt and change each bolt for both cams? Might save a ton of time and cost.

Does everything rotate when the engine turns?

[mrrsharma@yahoo.com]

If the engines pulled.. do as much as possible, seals and parts are relatively cheap

[GrayX5D]

Originally Posted by mrrsharma@yahoo.com

If the engines pulled.. do as much as possible, seals and parts are relatively cheap

Yeah I plan on doing the timing chain and was going to ask what people though about replacing the bearing since the oil pan is going to be off anyway. Yeah it all rotates and the chain appears tight like you say but I'm away till Wednesday before I can dive in. Apparently from doing research, cam sprocket bolts backing out in f15's is a known issue. Just gotta hope no spall fragments make their way around the engine

[mrrsharma@yahoo.com]

Change the oil pump it’s like $300 or so. Bearing set is cheap.

The front main and rear main seals are questionable. Cause you don’t want to
Mess the installs on those.

Check the harmonic damper, those are known to crack and fail.

Hope the valves are good, otherwise you are looking at a head rebuild.

[GrayX5D]

Thanks for the info, I'm pretty sure the valves are good but amight.be worth checking since the engine is out. So you think I should do the bearings?

Originally Posted by mrrsharma@yahoo.com

Change the oil pump it’s like $300 or so. Bearing set is cheap.

The front main and rear main seals are questionable. Cause you don’t want to
Mess the installs on those.

Check the harmonic damper, those are known to crack and fail.

Hope the valves are good, otherwise you are looking at a head rebuild.

[mrrsharma@yahoo.com]

Yah, for sure, the lower journals. Maybe leave the crankshaft in place.

The top bearing won’t see as much wear.

You can check the intake/exhaust valves by inspecting the ports too and maybe doing a liquid leak down check. (oil not water)