Advice: What Else to Replace with Valve Cover?

[nszzya]

2016 35i 100k miles with valve cover gasket leak. Will replace entire cover. Should I replace plugs and coils? Thanks.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by nszzya

2016 35i 100k miles with valve cover gasket leak. Will replace entire cover. Should I replace plugs and coils? Thanks.

When was the last time they were done? If greater than >60k I would.

[Tomcat_F15_STL]

Replacing Plugs is a wise move. I've only ever needed to replace a single coil in 140k miles - so, I would not do that, myself.

Clean the vanos solenoids and new o-rings. New valvetronic seal. New Crankcase Vent Pipe Hose.

Oil Filter Housing Gaskets (OFHG) would be a good choice since you are in the area, too.

[kanchis]

Originally Posted by nszzya

2016 35i 100k miles with valve cover gasket leak. Will replace entire cover. Should I replace plugs and coils? Thanks.

Just got done doing mine. It took a lot longer than anticipated as I didn't have full days to work on it and some of the bolts are just so hard to reach (I'm 5' 6" and can't reach the back of the cover standing). I literally had to lie down on top of the engine to reach the back left bolts!)
I did replace the coils and the spark plugs. FCP Euro has a Kit that includes both.

Here's what I got from FCP Euro:
1. BMW Crankcase Vent Hose (BMW-11127584128) x 1 [$48.69]
2. BMW Valvetronic Actuator Seal Mounting Screw (BMW-11367609963) x 2 [$0.99x2]
3. BMW Engine Cover Ball Pin (BMW-11127593207) x 2 [$4.53x2]
4. BMW Valvetronic Actuator Seal (BMW-11377502022) x 1 [$12.37]
5. BMW Ignition Service Kit (KIT-12138616153KT5) [$195.48]
6. BMW N55 Valve Cover (BMW-11127570292) [$525.99]
Total $793.57

Local BWM shop wanted $2055.96 for this repair. (only for the valve cover replacement, no idea how much the coil pack and spark plugs would cost)
Watch this video if you are going to DIY it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ctdCtvKC6dE

Happy to answer any questions you have since it's still fresh in my memory. I still need to put the plastic covers back but the car started and runs fine

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by Tomcat_F15_STL

Replacing Plugs is a wise move. I've only ever needed to replace a single coil in 140k miles - so, I would not do that, myself.

Clean the vanos solenoids and new o-rings. New valvetronic seal. New Crankcase Vent Pipe Hose.

Oil Filter Housing Gaskets (OFHG) would be a good choice since you are in the area, too.

These are great suggestions, however, I’d prolly avoid the OFHG unless it’s actually leaking. Due to the oiling passage ways in the n55 that are prone to aeration and resulting rod bearing issues I only like to open the oiling system when I absolutely have to.

If you do open the system, it’s critical that you do the BMW recommended TSB for oil priming. Technically, you shouldn’t have any issues after that, but it doesn’t exactly give me warm fuzzies.

[stocktree]

Originally Posted by tlow98

These are great suggestions, however, I’d prolly avoid the OFHG unless it’s actually leaking. Due to the oiling passage ways in the n55 that are prone to aeration and resulting rod bearing issues I only like to open the oiling system when I absolutely have to.

If you do open the system, it’s critical that you do the BMW recommended TSB for oil priming. Technically, you shouldn’t have any issues after that, but it doesn’t exactly give me warm fuzzies.

I think you're making it a bigger deal than it actually is. Removing the housing is not much more than removing the filter that goes in it.

[Tomcat_F15_STL]

Originally Posted by stocktree

I think you're making it a bigger deal than it actually is. Removing the housing is not much more than removing the filter that goes in it.

Respectfully, I believe spun bearings from breaking the oil circuit is a thing to pay attention to. I have followed the TSB Priming procedure when doing the OFHG job. I altered it to make it easier, however - instead of disconnecting all six injectors at the injectors, I pull the plug from the DME. This is about two minutes of extra effort.

Additionally, when doing oil filter changes, I immediately rev to 2k rpm and hold it there for ten seconds to guarantee a good prime off an empty filter housing start.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by stocktree

I think you're making it a bigger deal than it actually is. Removing the housing is not much more than removing the filter that goes in it.

The n55 has different oil passage ways in the engine vs say the n52 and n54. The n55 has serious issues self bleeding once the system has been opened. BMW wrote the TSB because of the bearing failures due to dealership work on the n55 specifically. Not some random report from an astranged do it yourself person. There’s a one way valve in the housing body, and this is what’s different than just a filter change. You’re draining the system once that one way valve is opened. It needs to be primed.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by Tomcat_F15_STL

Additionally, when doing oil filter changes, I immediately rev to 2k rpm and hold it there for ten seconds to guarantee a good prime off an empty filter housing start.

Oh, good call. I did this when I rebuilt my s54, but I’ll start doing it in this case too. Thanks!