DIY: High Pressure Fuel Pumps (N63TU)

[Maverik259]

I'll link a couple videos I used but couldn't find anything worth my time on the forum. Plus I'll link the codes I got to start this. Basically HPFP, MAF #2, and cylinder 5 misfire. Didn't want to deal with injectors and I know there is a 10/120 extended warranty on them anyway so figured I'd start with the pumps. Then if needed the MAF and if still an issue let dealer tackle the injector.

There will also be some differences depending on what year you have. I am 2014 March build. So the HPFP had a new magneto and plug type which required splicing the wiring.

Ordered all from FCP Euro and thanks to them for all the parts I needed based on their system recommendations

2x Bosch HPFP 13518604232
2x camshaft followers 11327601233
4x T30 bolts 13517632572
2x wire harness 12518638006
2x rubber gaskets 11127588416


Tools:
Small pry tool
5mm hex
17mm wrench
T30

Video I followed:

[Maverik259]

1) remove rear engine bay cover. Just pulls up and out

2) you will both pumps readily available on either side just behind both intake tubes.

3) disconnect oxygen sensors from
Clip and if needed you can completely disconnect them and push to the side. I broke this clip on both sides. Lol so I zip tied them after.

4) use 5mm hex to unscrew both bolts on either side or pump. Try not to drop them. You won't reuse these. New bolts have thread sealant to prevent oil from seeping out and you will see some on threads.

5) use 17mm wrench to loosen both hard fuel lines. I just broke them loose and used my hand to further loosen until I could let them slide down the pipe away from the pump. Put rag or paper towels under tips as fuel will drip.

6) on driver side there is an additional flex fuel line with a yellow pressure ring that I used a pry tool to compress and then pulled off. Place tag or paper towels here and fuel will drip.

7) if you are like me and have to install new wire harnesses for new plug type then just use a pair of snips and cut the plug wires as close to the plug as possible. If not proceed to step 8. The wires were not very long and I wanted as much play as possible to crimp the new wires at the end. Don't toss them away yet as you need to know what color wire goes to which side of the plug. Either a 1 or 2 will be indicated on plug and this must correlate to new plug wires labeled 1 and 2. DONT just assume that same color scheme on wires means they attach together. For my passenger side the colors were literally opposite. Green and white was in plug 2 on original and plug 1 on new plug. Stupid.

8) carefully use a 90deg pick and release gray lock and then on the bottom of the plug slip in the pick and apply outward pressure and either tug slightly on wires or try and apply pressure with pick off plug. This was tough and I ended up breaking it. Good thing I didn't need it in the end.

9) attempt to remove the pumps. This was really tricky on the driver side for me. You are gonna have to be patient and use a pry tool apply pressure on the rigid fuel lines to get them out of the pump so you can lift it out. Took me some time. Had to use one hand to pry the line slightly and another to twist and pull on the pump. The drive side forward line gave me the most trouble. The passenger side aft line was the trouble there. Eventually once you can get them popped out of the pump the pump should pull straight out.

10) remove gasket and camshaft roller with a pick. Install new ones. Apply some oil on gasket like an oil filter.

11) install new pumps. Use that patience and pry tool to get the line tips to pop back into the new pump. Then gently thread on hard lines. Don't make full tight.

12) screw in T30s until secure. I hand tightened everything but the T30s take 15nm if I recall. Don't quote me.

13) hand tighten fuel lines.

14) reinsert plug.

15) if you are installing new plug and harness then before installing cut the new harness down to maybe 6". Up to you and what you're comfortable working with. I used some waterproof heat shrink style red butt connectors. Believe the wires are 18gauge. Installed on the new wire harness first. Then before connecting wires check to see which color wire goes to the 1 and 2 pug. Once you determine this then you can crimp oem wire harness into the butt connector. I doubled up the heat shrink with a big one that goes over both butt connectors and the oem wire loom plastic. I heated the butt connectors first then slid the shrink wrap over it all then heated that.

16) plug in new connectors. Reattach the flex fuel line with yellow locking ring tab on driver side. Reinstall oxygen sensors on both sides and if you didn't break the clips. Reclip or zip tie. Install engine bay cover.

17) clear codes with your preference of coder.

18) start it up and go for a ride. I couldn't erase all error codes. So it requires me to turn the car off and let it sit over night and this morning the CEL was gone.

[Maverik259]

Photos

[zero2sixtyZ]

Posting to say thanks for the DIY. 3/15 build

Proved to be very helpful after getting 11A002 codes for High Pressure Fuel - pressure too low, and multiple misfires. Ordered everything except the harnesses. Once installed, codes are gone and running smoothly. Took about two hours for me going slowly and including an air filter swap.

Side note, the markup is crazy on the OEM BMW vs Bosch. $1075.99 vs $137.99!

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by zero2sixtyZ

Posting to say thanks for the DIY. 3/15 build

Proved to be very helpful after getting 11A002 codes for High Pressure Fuel - pressure too low, and multiple misfires. Ordered everything except the harnesses. Once installed, codes are gone and running smoothly. Took about two hours for me going slowly and including an air filter swap.

Side note, the markup is crazy on the OEM BMW vs Bosch. $1075.99 vs $137.99!

Glad it helped man.

[millerm77]

Originally Posted by zero2sixtyZ

Posting to say thanks for the DIY. 3/15 build

Proved to be very helpful after getting 11A002 codes for High Pressure Fuel - pressure too low, and multiple misfires. Ordered everything except the harnesses. Once installed, codes are gone and running smoothly. Took about two hours for me going slowly and including an air filter swap.

Side note, the markup is crazy on the OEM BMW vs Bosch. $1075.99 vs $137.99!

Do you have to order two pumps to fix this error code? Is there a way to find out which one is bad?

[zero2sixtyZ]

Originally Posted by millerm77

Do you have to order two pumps to fix this error code? Is there a way to find out which one is bad?

Most likely didn't have to. The codes were bank specific IIRC, but I did both at the same time to be sure.

[New X5Bimmer]

amazing details and post, thanks a lot

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by New X5Bimmer

amazing details and post, thanks a lot

Happy to help