Post Your F15 Issues Here..........

[oem.plus_440gc]

Just dropped of my wife's 2015 X5 35i to (i believe) get the oil filter housing/oil cooler thermostat replaced. It was just flowing coolant out of it. They're going to do their own diag on it tomorrow so i'll update with their diagnosis and cost to fix/replace.

Edit: It just passed 101,000 miles on it and from what i've ready this is somewhat common on the N55.

Edit 2: Just got the car back yesterday. It was indeed the OFHG and that was replaced. $200 diag, $750ish repair. When they completed the repair, they took it for a test drive and a drivetrain error and CEL popped up. Since the car was in their hands when this happened, they diagnosed and fixed the issue (which i believe was a cam position sensor) for free. Glad that happened while they had the car so i didnt' have to cough up another few hundred $$...

[Harv]

2018 F15 X5 35d 86,000 miles original owner.

Excellent maintenance and all recalls up to date including the egr cooler and hp fuel pump.

A few weeks ago I departed Cleveland for Asheville towing my 69 2002 on an aluminum trailer. Myself and this X5 are not new to towing, I also tow a 23’ Airstream. The night before I left the temp dropped to 38f and about 70 miles into the trip I got a low coolant level indication. Keeping an eye on the temp gauge I pressed on (bad idea I know) thinking the fluctuation of outdoor temp may have had something to do with it. About 120 miles later (and right by an exit) I got a high engine temp indication. I pulled off, let it cool, topped off the coolant level, burped the system the best I could and continued to Asheville without issue. When I got to “The Vintage” I dropped the X5 off at Asheville BMW for a look over. They reset the coolant level and vac bleed the system. No faults, no leaks, no codes of any kind. After the weekend I loaded up Sunday am and started for Cleveland. I made it up and over the mountains and down into TN. Stopped for fuel and back on the road again. 10 miles later it overheated again. Stopped immediately had it towed to a dealer about 30 miles away. They looked at it Monday and said it needs a thermostat and mechanical water pump. Sounds reasonable and correct. On my way Tuesday (had to wait for parts) and it happened again 120 miles away. Cooled, topped off, burped and I made it back to the dealer. They were embarrassed. Vac bleed the system again and all is normal. This time I made it 200(somewhat) miles away and it did it again. Got towed to Charleston WV where I stayed overnight. A buddy of mine drove down with his Sprinter Van. 2002 off the trailer and X5 on. I followed in the 2002 4 hours home.

I’m not coming up with any similar issues with all my searching. At best it’s something like the egr cooler (but no codes). After that it goes down hill fast head gasket, head, block? I seams to me air (boost?) is getting in the cooling system. Air bubble manifests in the pump and it overheats. Rad hoses are cool to Luke warm (they should burn you) the heater hoses go cold too.

Anything?

Buler?

I might X post this.

John

[FALKLAN]

2015 x5 35d
pdf of Diagnostics Report is attached

I'm more of a MB guy is why I'm here asking for help with my accountant's bimmer. IDK what started all this but I recorded the report and cleared.

None of those DTCs returned during my test drive of a little more than 30 minutes; however, she says it's still running as if it's missing. After driving this SUV, you would swear that it's missing pretty bad. I have not seen the first DTC for an engine misfire. It cuts out just for a moment, just like it's a misfire.

I'm going to attempt to meet her tomorrow and scan it again before she takes it to the indie Thursday.

I'm really not sure what tripped all those DTCs.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

[FALKLAN]

Originally Posted by FALKLAN

I'm really not sure what tripped all those DTCs.

I believe this has something to do with the exhaust fluid stuff. I really have no idea concerning that stuff. Something about chemically induced exchange of something? yeah I really don't want to go there.

I also attempted to recreate the EGR code without success. At first I thought the EGR fault was the cause but it's functioning properly.

Well, you all know the drill I believe. It's called a service manual right? Wrong! My MB "service manual" is provided as a VM (virtual machine). Off I go to get another "service manual" where the UI is an atrocity on my PC due to it's resolution. No I "don't need" a magnifying glass to read the UI of the "service manual" VM. I need a FN microscope! Yes I edit the system font to increase it's size to maximum; which, in turn, works for everything else in the OS (Win 7 Ult.) but the "service manual." I'm even uncertain if it can help troubleshoot this dilemma.

[BigStan76]

I am trying to find the location of the power control module for 2014 F15 sdrive

[RED_Y_]

Originally Posted by BigStan76

I am trying to find the location of the power control module for 2014 F15 sdrive

https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1938950

[Hotflare]

Originally Posted by Bmm34

Hello, I'm a new member to the forum. I'm on my 2nd BMW. First was a 2009 335I and now I have a 2018 x5 35d.

About two months ago I started to have some rough idle issues mostly on a cold start but sometimes even when it was warm. The RPMs would fluctuate when I first start it up. It's progressively gotten worse and in the last month it has actually stalled a few times and the rough idle is more severe when it happens. I've noticed it happens more often when I back out of my driveway vs driving out, but it doesn't do it on every cold start.

I've had the steering module replaced under warranty and was told by the BMW dealership that that could potentially rectify the issue. They didn't see any other faults when doing a diagnostics.

Unfortunately the rough idle has persisted and so I was hopeful it might be the EGR causing the issue. I had a new one on order to be replaced under warranty. The EGR was replaced today and after I got it home and it sat for a bit, I took it out and it the rough idle happened again. The dealership can not replicate the issue.

Any advice would be appreciated. If I'm leaving out pertinent information, please let me know.

62,000km

Thanks

Mine is doing this too. Ever find the problem?

[FREE100KSECRET]

Greetings,

I am curious on issues related to codes for Drive Malfunctions. I had several codes which all related to low voltage. I have 2016 and when I checked battery which died, it did charge back up, but given it is near 7 years old, I changed it out with a new one. Problem is I get same codes and engine starts and then stops instantly. EDrive battery is near depleted, but all I want is engine to run at this point and it won't start.

I know I need to register battery, so does anyone have the INSTA download to avoid having it towed to stealership service just to get battery registered for a couple hundred dollars given the $190 labor rate now. Crazy. The codes are all related to low voltage, P1ACF, P1ADI, P123B, P18FD, P1ACF, Example of code description below.

The diagnosis monitors the reception of a control signal from the EGS.
The fault is detected if the EME receives a control signal from the EGS requesting the deactivation of the electrical machine (zero torque).

Anyone had to deal with this issue before? I am new to the 40e technology.

Thanks,

[KNRESQ]

Hey I’m in NY but I took mine to a wheel repair shop, my rims are two toned and they did a great job making them like new

[M_Bimmer]

My neighbor's '16 X5 3.5i has been leaking oil for some time now, and is no longer under warranty. With 55K miles, and an estimate of $2,500 for a gasket replacement on the valve cover by the shop, I went ahead and dug in for him, after he bought a $60 BMW gasket.

Well, we ended up needed some other seals, but I decided, since the firewall parts and the air inlet parts were already off, I'd check the M6 cover bolts.

Front end of the N55 engine M6's (8.5 Nm torque) were really tight, and as I got to the rear, some required a quarter turn, but the bolt under the O2 sensor harnesses, required over 6 full turns before it even was finger tight.

Doubt that this screw was even installed from the factory....

His wife is not really happy that she's been inhaling emissions leaking from the head cover for so long.....

The PCV is bod, so waiting for the new BMW valve cover to come in and new BMW AGM battery.....but not looking forward to doing this valve cover job in whole. A few places were a pain the ass.

[50iXman]

new forum member I posted my concern in the main forum. Is this a better place?

Looking forward to all of the advice!

[Mando]

Hello guys, I am stomped . Can’t find what is caused a CEL. I get this code
:
160504 Crankcase ventilation heating, activation: Line disconnection

I changed the vent on top of the intake, new batteries, oil change, and can’t get rid of it. Clear codes and rescan

Anyone? Thank you

[bsuciu2023]

I just replaced my battery 1200$ and this sign shows my battery level if is indeed my battery level. is this correct?

[Tomcat_F15_STL]

Originally Posted by bsuciu2023

I just replaced my battery 1200$ and this sign shows my battery level if is indeed my battery level. is this correct?

Full disclosure, I don't own one, but I see the X5 40e plug-in hybrid has a few modes you can choose from - each affecting how the lithium battery is used & charged.

Plugging it in, "BMW estimates that a full charge using the X5 xDrive45e’s 3.7 kW charger takes just over five hours. This is based on using a capable 240-volt, Level 2 home charging station, such as the JuiceBox 32."

Further, "The eDrive button allows the driver to choose between three eDrive modes: the standard AUTO eDRIVE mode, the purely electric MAX eDRIVE mode and the SAVE BATTERY mode, which maintains the charging status at a constant level."

Maybe you should ask your local service advisor to check your settings to better understand if you have a real problem or have a driving style not conducive to the operating mode you have selected.

[EnzoCali]

Originally Posted by cc3

Rattle from tailgate driving me mad despite visit to dealer

Nav and radio turned off while driving then re booted itself after a couple of miles.

rattle comes from the gate latch. very easy to fix. stuff with grease or replace.

[mindhealer]

Good morning all. I was messing around with my setting the other day and how, I don't know but I became a magician and made the fuel range indicator (the little gas tank disappear LOL) I've been through numerous posts and read through even more directions but I can't find out how to turn it back it back on. Hopefully it's something simple, which I imagine it is and someone out there in Bimmerpost world knows how to help me turn it back. I know it sounds silly but it gave me a sense of comfort having it on and I'm a creature of change lol

Here's a picture of the fuel indicater below so you all know what I'm referring to. Thanks so very much for alll your help and hope everyone has a great day. Oh....it's a 2017 BMW X5 xdrive35 (F15 style)

[beats]

Originally Posted by mindhealer

Good morning all. I was messing around with my setting the other day and how, I don't know but I became a magician and made the fuel range indicator (the little gas tank disappear LOL) I've been through numerous posts and read through even more directions but I can't find out how to turn it back it back on. Hopefully it's something simple, which I imagine it is and someone out there in Bimmerpost world knows how to help me turn it back. I know it sounds silly but it gave me a sense of comfort having it on and I'm a creature of change lol

Here's a picture of the fuel indicater below so you all know what I'm referring to. Thanks so very much for alll your help and hope everyone has a great day. Oh....it's a 2017 BMW X5 xdrive35 (F15 style)


Attachment 3296262

If you are referring to the white dot the arrows are pointing to, I thought that was the amount of gas the car estimated would be left when you reached your destination using NAV? The range in terms of total distance can be toggled on by using the BC button on the end of the stalk.

[JRgully]

Any one have a fix for replacing the stock fog light with LED and not getting fog light errors? Or maybe another option I haven't thought of before??

[MartindaleX5]

Originally Posted by JRgully

Any one have a fix for replacing the stock fog light with LED and not getting fog light errors? Or maybe another option I haven't thought of before??

Assuming you’re replacing the OEM bulb with an LED bulb, you’ll need to code so you don’t throw an error. You can easily do this via Bimmercode. If you do a search on the forum you’ll find plenty of info. Best of luck.

[Jbi]

I'm having an 2014 X5 with N55 engine, recently I realized that when the car is about to stop, there is whistling noise from the front, and if I turn off the auto start/stop, the noise is gone, does anyone had same issue? and how it was solved. thanks.

[DaveM1949]

My 2016 X5's steering wheel stopped telescoping in and out. Doesn't retract when car is shut off and column switch just clicks when pushed or pulled up. The tilt works fine. I've heard that some people have found metal bits from the gears inside the column. Also have read that the motor can seize up and a couple of guys got it working by just banging hard on the wheel several times. The dealer wants to replace the steering column for $4,000! The position is fine for me where it froze. I'd just like to find a better way to get it working again for less than 4K! Anyone have any comments?

[ocbrad1]

2016 X5 x-drive 35i with the standard HID lights. Just before I rolled it over 100k miles, I noticed a lot of oncoming drivers flashing their high-beams at me. I had turned off the high-beams, verified by the fog lights coming back on. Unfortunately, whatever the mechanism is that adjusts the single HID bulb between low and high-beams (just give us the separate high-beam bulbs in the otherwise vacant inboard locations) is sticking on the driver's side. The passenger side "rotates down" (or whatever the actual function is, a filter?) but the driver's side stays in the high-beam position. But because it thinks that it's gone back to low-beams, the fog lights do come back on. Unfortunately, the driver's side lights (closest to oncoming traffic, natch) stay in the high-beam position. I can get out of the car with the headlights on, hit the top of the light housing with my fist, and it will rotate into the low-beam position. I don't know what the mechanism is that makes the shift between low and high, but presumably it is some sort of actual mechanical function that is sticking. I went to my dealer in the hopes that they would be able to find the right hinge or whatever to lubricate and I'd be on my way, only down a few hundred bucks. Nope. They said that it's broken, can't be fixed, and a new housing will only set me back $3200 or something ridiculous like that.

There has to be something mechanical that actuates the shift between low and high beams, because I can look at the light beam projected on my garage door when I hit the light housing, and I watch the beam literally angle down into the low-beam position. I don't know if there's some visor or something that normally sits over the top quarter of the projection that rotates up when high-beams are activated, or if the actual socket/housing that the bulbs are situated in itself rotates up or down based on whether high-beams are turned on or off. It seems weird enough that it's probably a common problem. Any thoughts out there?