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      02-20-2017, 10:13 AM   #1
MrTookies
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DYI Brakes replacement F15?

Hello,

I just passed my 50k mile mark and getting close to needing new brakes...The Dealership tries to sell me on another 1year 25k maintenance plan which would run me about $1400, and at my driving....good for another 7months or so... They said if I would bring it in without the plan it will run me about $3500... now the questions...

Has anybody done their own brakes, pads/disc repalcement...and if so where did you get the parts? Can the mile indicator be reset without running ISTA, not that that would be a problem...Brake Fluid drain...OEM...Aftermarket...
Did anybody maybe even find a step by step instruction... I have done brake replacement on older cars but not quite sure if there might be something that needs to be considered...electronics ect...

Thanks for your input!

Also does anybody know if there is anything additional or different to the E70?

Last edited by MrTookies; 02-20-2017 at 10:40 AM..
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      02-20-2017, 10:53 AM   #2
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Have you physically checked the life on the pads? I reset my service indicator twice before I did the MPBK on my F15, still had lots of life left on the pads. For sourcing the parts when the time comes, all depends if you want to go OEM or aftermarket. getbmwparts.com is a good place to start. I have a good relationship with my local dealer and the Parts Manager gives me good prices, so I buy local when needed. After you do the brakes, you'll just need to reset the service indicator.
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      02-20-2017, 10:59 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stewy604 View Post
Have you physically checked the life on the pads? I reset my service indicator twice before I did the MPBK on my F15, still had lots of life left on the pads. For sourcing the parts when the time comes, all depends if you want to go OEM or aftermarket. getbmwparts.com is a good place to start. I have a good relationship with my local dealer and the Parts Manager gives me good prices, so I buy local when needed. After you do the brakes, you'll just need to reset the service indicator.
Thanks for your post! I have checked them and I still got some left ... IMO another 5k in the back and 10k in the front, so it's a questions if I should do the extended maintenance plan... Looking at OEM parts it does not seem too expensive...considering if I'd do the labor. Can you reset the service indicator without connecting to the car in a way you used to with older models?

Is OEM the best way to go here? I know sometimes aftermarket have benefits as well.
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      02-20-2017, 01:36 PM   #4
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Here ya go. I did the DIY on my last car (535i GT) and it's pretty simple. It's pretty much the same for all BMW's. Stick with BMW rotors. They're 2 piece and much lighter than aftermarket cast ones. You can go with EBC, Akebono, Brembo pads if you're looking for something different.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=932538

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=934641
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      02-20-2017, 01:57 PM   #5
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I just did the rear brakes and rotors on my 2014 X5. Used akebono euro pads and Zimmerman zcoat rotors. Easier than expected, I was worried about the e-brake not allowing the piston to be retracted. Turns out the parking brakes on the F15 are the inner drum type. The ebrake actuates them and not the actual regular disc brake so you can compress the piston in just like any other vehicle. Also learned how to reset the brake pad wear indicator. turn the vehicle to on but do not start. hold odometer reset switch until display appears, select appropriate pads reset(35000 kms). Hope that helps.
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      02-20-2017, 03:11 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndinh View Post
Here ya go. I did the DIY on my last car (535i GT) and it's pretty simple. It's pretty much the same for all BMW's. Stick with BMW rotors. They're 2 piece and much lighter than aftermarket cast ones. You can go with EBC, Akebono, Brembo pads if you're looking for something different.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=932538

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=934641
Thanks, why would you use different pads, what's the benefit, besides using something different?
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      02-20-2017, 03:12 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TallTrees View Post
I just did the rear brakes and rotors on my 2014 X5. Used akebono euro pads and Zimmerman zcoat rotors. Easier than expected, I was worried about the e-brake not allowing the piston to be retracted. Turns out the parking brakes on the F15 are the inner drum type. The ebrake actuates them and not the actual regular disc brake so you can compress the piston in just like any other vehicle. Also learned how to reset the brake pad wear indicator. turn the vehicle to on but do not start. hold odometer reset switch until display appears, select appropriate pads reset(35000 kms). Hope that helps.
Much appreciated! What made you choose different than OEM, price?
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      02-21-2017, 07:00 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlayTookies View Post
Much appreciated! What made you choose different than OEM, price?
The oem pads were toast at 57000Km. That is not good for rears. On every vehicle I have ever owned the rears last twice as long as the fronts. I asked the service why the rears are worn out so early and the fronts are still good, he said because of the dynamic AWD system. It applies the brakes in turns even when you aren't on the brake pedal...lol I call BS as that being the reason they are worn. I think they must have stuck a bit OR more likely they are just below average pads. I also wanted to make sure to have minimal brake dust, the akebono euro do not give off much at all. Didn't save any money VS OEM high quality aftermarket parts are not cheaper.
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      02-21-2017, 11:29 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlayTookies View Post
Thanks, why would you use different pads, what's the benefit, besides using something different?
On almost every BMW (at least with the 5,6,7,X series cars), you'll end up going through around 2 sets of rears for every 1 set of front pads, both with RWD and AWD. I went with Akebono pads mainly because of brake dust. I have aftermarket wheels and with the OE pads, the wheels were constantly dirty. After installing the Akebono pads, there was hardly any brake dust.....like my wheels looked clean even 2 weeks after washing. The downside, at least in my experience, is that I felt the braking power was, somewhat, sacrificed. It didn't have the bite like the OE ones, especially, for such a heavy vehicle. I went with Zimmerman rotors also and they were fine. Rotors are rotors. The Zimmerman ones are German made, 1 piece cast so you'll add about 3-5 lbs per wheel compared to BMW's OE ones. If I were to do it again on my current car, I'd go with drilled rotors (for looks mainly) and EBC red pads for stopping power.
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      02-22-2017, 05:48 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndinh View Post
On almost every BMW (at least with the 5,6,7,X series cars), you'll end up going through around 2 sets of rears for every 1 set of front pads, both with RWD and AWD.
Correct for the newer cars (past 15 years or so)
E39 and back used fronts up first
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      03-27-2018, 11:49 AM   #11
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Has anyone tried to change rear brake pads on F15 or F16 (2015 and above models). Are there any instructions? It seems that the Electric Parking Brake system is a bit different on the newer models.
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      03-27-2018, 11:52 AM   #12
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You need to put the parking brake into service mode, using either ISTA or Carly.
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      03-27-2018, 01:58 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jigwar View Post
Has anyone tried to change rear brake pads on F15 or F16 (2015 and above models). Are there any instructions? It seems that the Electric Parking Brake system is a bit different on the newer models.
AFAIK, it is traditional, because the Electronic E-Brake is a drum brake system.
It is not like the 5/6/7 series where it uses the rear brake system itself for the E-Brake.
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      03-27-2018, 03:54 PM   #14
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Perfect thanks, ,, and would you know if I have to change the brake sensors along with the brake pads? or can I re-use the sensors?
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      03-27-2018, 03:55 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jigwar View Post
Perfect thanks, ,, and would you know if I have to change the brake sensors along with the brake pads? or can I re-use the sensors?
My local mechanic kept the sensors.
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      03-27-2018, 04:47 PM   #16
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Get new sensors.
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      03-27-2018, 08:49 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jigwar View Post
Perfect thanks, ,, and would you know if I have to change the brake sensors along with the brake pads? or can I re-use the sensors?
If you trip the sensor, then you'll need to replace it.
It is a simple closed loop sensor. When the end that sitting inside the brake pads shaved off and break the loop, that's when the light indicator will turn on.
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      03-27-2018, 09:27 PM   #18
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The sensors are screwable.. Mechanic had to turn the wheel to find the threads.. Very primitive stuff. Shouldn't need help for this!
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      03-28-2018, 04:00 PM   #19
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Thanks to all, I will give it a try this weekend hopefully. Thanks,
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      02-09-2019, 11:16 AM   #20
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Sorry... old topic but is replacing the rotors a must? Can you just do the pads? My warning is stating 120 miles for the front brakes.
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      02-09-2019, 11:45 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mindcontrollerone View Post
Sorry... old topic but is replacing the rotors a must? Can you just do the pads? My warning is stating 120 miles for the front brakes.
I think it would depend on the rotor thickness, but most dealers will replace the rotors or they won't warranty the work. If you have any pulsating when braking I would say you'd want to replace them. I usually just replace them as it's not worth bedding in a new set of pads and then getting a pulsation from the rotors. BUT I've seen some dealership when they CPO a car will just replace the pads and put it out on the line for sale.
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      02-09-2019, 11:50 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mindcontrollerone View Post
Sorry... old topic but is replacing the rotors a must? Can you just do the pads? My warning is stating 120 miles for the front brakes.
You should check the rotor minimum thickness using a brake rotor caliper gauge or a regular caliper with needle extensions.

*X5 50i with rotor size 365x36 mm Min thickness 34.4 mm (-1.6mm)
*X5 35i with rotor size 348x30 mm Min thickness 28.4 mm (-1.6mm)

The Rotors must not have any deviations ie warping or scoring on its surface this is done by sampling 8 diffrent sections on the rotors Also you should run your finger vertically on the braking surface to check for scoring if any you should replace it.

*On all X5 max allowed is deviation 0.01 mm

If your running metal on metal with your brakes just replace the rotors.

most rotors these days are throwaway as they dont have much metal on them in the first place, added that we have extended brake service intervals (50k-60k) by the time its due for brake service the rotors has already worn down for replacement.

Min spec Source
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...kes/1VnYNU7dPi
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