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      05-17-2022, 09:00 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by BimmerNewb79 View Post
I think I follow what you are saying. That makes sense on why I had to keep removing the charger and battery terminals to get the car to reset power so I could diagnose more.
The best way to diagnose this type of issues is ISTA Live Terminal measurement. You can lock the car and still watch the status of Terminals being slept or still Up. I have solved 10+ cars remotely with this!

But i am glad you sorted out.
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      05-17-2022, 09:41 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by SaNGRia View Post
The best way to diagnose this type of issues is ISTA Live Terminal measurement. You can lock the car and still watch the status of Terminals being slept or still Up. I have solved 10+ cars remotely with this!

But i am glad you sorted out.
Can this be used for like the Water pump/fan? To see if its still running past it's 10/15 minute window.

Last edited by Chilled; 05-17-2022 at 10:26 PM..
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      05-18-2022, 06:08 PM   #69
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Can this be used for like the Water pump/fan? To see if its still running past it's 10/15 minute window.
You need to find which terminal E-Waterpump/Fan connected to. I believe they re on Terminal 30 as well. It keeps running like 20 min I always do short trips and whenever i come from Publix or Walmart still running. Never had battery issue tho. I looked at my Battery History and always in mid 60-70 percentage in the history of charging stage.
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      05-18-2022, 08:26 PM   #70
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It more for the future. With all the electrics in this thing, especially with the things that stay alive, after turning off/locking the car. The question I have in the back of my mind, how do I diagnose all of this.

If I can connect a wifi dongle to the ODB port, ISTA and have it give out a live status on all the things using T15/T30/T30B, ect. On a per line/item basis. Awesome.

Or how would you diagnose these types of issues?
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      05-18-2022, 11:00 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chilled View Post
It more for the future. With all the electrics in this thing, especially with the things that stay alive, after turning off/locking the car. The question I have in the back of my mind, how do I diagnose all of this.

If I can connect a wifi dongle to the ODB port, ISTA and have it give out a live status on all the things using T15/T30/T30B, ect. On a per line/item basis. Awesome.

Or how would you diagnose these types of issues?
I always look for after market units first. Majortiy of people just tapping them without researching.

I will give example. I made 5AT retrofit as you all know. I was getting one error after turning of the car was ACC CAN BUS error even tho everything was working.

After making some diagnosing realize i put the ACC Radar 12V in a wrong place and that was not shutting the ACC OFF after car is turned off. The Fuse box under the glovebox designed very weird i looked at the hape of it when i was locating the proper fuse and the shape mislead me to tap on wrong fuse and it was Terminal 30. So when car was OFF ACC radar was on but ICM was off so car was complaining No can bus signal from ACC / ICM. I corrected error went away forever.

Second issue was i got myself Custom Steering wheek with sport Display. I tap the 12V in a wire which 99% do. And it was wrong. Cause that also connected to terminal 30. How i know it? Vattery Discharging faster than usual or something was popping up when i enter to car.

Then i first thought OBD Dongle was the issue since it was always plugged in. After making deep research i found out steering module actually also has Terminal 15 output. Once i switched from Terminal 30 to 15 errors all gone. OBD Dongle sleeps immediately after ignition is OFF.

Stuff like that always causes problem if you do not find the correct Terminal to Tap to.

My fav is always terminal 15 and very safe to use for any after market units.
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      05-22-2022, 05:55 PM   #72
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So........ it's not fixed. I hadn't gotten the car back together from last weekends troubleshooting, and I walk into the garage today and something burned up(module I'm guessing). Have to start all over again. Maybe I'm not cut out for the bimmer life.
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      05-23-2022, 12:15 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerNewb79 View Post
So........ it's not fixed. I hadn't gotten the car back together from last weekends troubleshooting, and I walk into the garage today and something burned up(module I'm guessing). Have to start all over again. Maybe I'm not cut out for the bimmer life.
Ohh, dude that suxs to hear. Did you smell it, or was she just not starting again?


I'm feeling the same, my situation is nowhere near as bad as yours. But I'm asking the same question.

Last edited by Chilled; 05-23-2022 at 12:23 AM..
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      05-23-2022, 05:02 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chilled View Post
Ohh, dude that suxs to hear. Did you smell it, or was she just not starting again?


I'm feeling the same, my situation is nowhere near as bad as yours. But I'm asking the same question.

It was just random. I had just come home from work and went into the garage for some tools and found it.
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      04-24-2024, 03:21 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck View Post
Have you checked all the ground straps? On previous gen getting a codes like this and no-start was common when the engine ground strap fried. On the F85 I don't think there is one by the front diff anymore and looks like they moved it back to the transmission area plus one by read diff and one on muffler. You can also add a ground cable to test the theory from any large bolt that goes to the body (front brace, struts, etc) to the engine and see if it makes a difference.

There are also multiple sub grounding locations to check, You can find their locations on BMW TIS. PM me if you need info on how to access if you dont have it it alraedy.
SR...2013 X6M - could you help me find the tranny ground strap...Also are there any braided straps etc on the engine to frame?

Thanks, BF
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