X5 2017 stuck in park

[kodpkd]

There was a snowy muddy mess under the car, lots of road grim. After shoveling it out, it was hard to see the oil, thanks. From my research this is one of the only thing that will keep it from shifting into D or R from park.
The crack wasn't that noticeable until it was at the dealer and on the lift.

[Clifton]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

Ditto…i have a screen capture from the owners manual in my pic stash…see below.

I checked my 2017 and at that same location there is a hole covered by rubber grommet. Anyone else? Did the quick release move?

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by Clifton

I checked my 2017 and at that same location there is a hole covered by rubber grommet. Anyone else? Did the quick release move?

Post 2016(i think) they removed the pull hoop. You have to cut (bolt cutters) the handbrake lines.

*edit* Here is the diagram.

Originally Posted by kodpkd

There was a snowy muddy mess under the car, lots of road grim. After shoveling it out, it was hard to see the oil, thanks. From my research this is one of the only thing that will keep it from shifting into D or R from park.
The crack wasn't that noticeable until it was at the dealer and on the lift.

There are allot of things than can stop it from doing into D/R from Park. Lack of oil is one of those.

Since you were already at the dealer, I'm surprised they didn't go through all of this with you and fix it. If you left, go back to the dealer/BMW specialist as if needed. A transmission install does require specialty tools.

Like I said, if you are lucky. You didn't sux any dirt and debris into the gearbox. The only thing that would still be spinning would be the Torque Converter and the oil pump. So assuming you didn't run it like this for long and/or didn't go lead foot. There maybe a chance it didn't tear itself apart.


So if you are here looking for advice, go back to the dealer/BMW Specialist and do what they recommend.

[kodpkd]

Once the car was at the dealer, they did explain what caused the issue. My post did say it was only run for about 10 seconds with the issue. So, what are the other things that will cause the trans to be stuck in park?

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by kodpkd

Once the car was at the dealer, they did explain what caused the issue. My post did say it was only run for about 10 seconds with the issue. So, what are the other things that will cause the trans to be stuck in park?

I'm not sure I understand what you are trying to achieve or get out of asking this question. If the gearbox has already been replaced, then go have fun. Keep driving. Just don't beach it again.


If you have a cracked pan, the likely options why you have no gears.

1. You have no oil, and as mentioned. This is needed to change gears. No oil = No changing of any gears. ALL operations, gear changes, etc. in this gearbox are done via OIL pressure.
2. You broke the mechatronic unit (the computer that is protected by the plastic pan. This is the thing that changes gears.) thus, you cannot change gears.
3. You ingested debris into the oil whilst beached and ground the internals to failure.
4. You ran the unit without oil, ground internals to failure.

As far as all other possible things that could be causing gear selection failure.
Here is an exploded diagram of a ZF's 8HP. Pick any single thing.

[kodpkd]

I'm looking to understand this car. I sure hope all they need to do is replace the oil pan, not the entire trans or even the shift mechanism.
I understand now, there are lots of things that mess up the shifting, but only one thing that keeps it locked in park.

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by kodpkd

I'm looking to understand this car. I sure hope all they need to do is replace the oil pan, not the entire trans or even the shift mechanism.
I understand now, there are lots of things that mess up the shifting, but only one thing that keeps it locked in park.

i'm always eager to learn, what is this only thing that will keep it locked in P?

[kodpkd]

When your oil is low or empty in the transmission, it will not shift out of park.
I need a little WD-40 for my rear,,,,,,,, $2000 to change the oil pan. WTF!

[brianhinton77]

Originally Posted by kodpkd

When your oil is low or empty in the transmission, it will not shift out of park.
I need a little WD-40 for my rear,,,,,,,, $2000 to change the oil pan. WTF!

Transmission pan and 7 liter of fluid only cost $300 from FCP. The whole job takes about an hour….dealer charging you $2000??? I take my parts from FCP to my local dealer and they charge me $279 to do the trans oil change and oil balance procedure….so about $600 total….just saying…its might be worth asking for a breakdown on services

[kodpkd]

I priced just the oil pan directly from BMW,,,, $200. I will get the paper work from them.
Maybe their hourly rate is $1000/hr.
I also found out that the oil pan/filter is a service item. When the trans oil and filter are replaced they change the pan. That's why it's plastic. It's the same as an engine oil filter. Change it and throw it away.

[kodpkd]

WOW,,,,, did I get screwed? A trans oil pan that I can get from the BMW web site for $80, they charged $330, what! One quart of fluid that I can get for $20 they charged $90, 7 quarts for $630. Can you really get 7 quarts in the trans? Then $730 for labor. Does it take 4 hrs to do a trans oil service, or is the labor rate $300/hr? Is this normal?
I think I need more WD-40 to lube my rear.

[Chilled]

Don't think of it as getting screwed. Think of it as the cost to participate, in an education seminar on the limitations of your X5.

[brianhinton77]

Originally Posted by kodpkd

WOW,,,,, did I get screwed? A trans oil pan that I can get from the BMW web site for $80, they charged $330, what! One quart of fluid that I can get for $20 they charged $90, 7 quarts for $630. Can you really get 7 quarts in the trans? Then $730 for labor. Does it take 4 hrs to do a trans oil service, or is the labor rate $300/hr? Is this normal?
I think I need more WD-40 to lube my rear.

Yes, IMO, you took one….

[kodpkd]

Originally Posted by Chilled

Don't think of it as getting screwed. Think of it as the cost to participate, in an education seminar on the limitations of your X5.

I am actually thinking this is criminal activity. Fraud.

[Smonkbmw]

Originally Posted by kodpkd

I am actually thinking this is criminal activity. Fraud.

or the cost of running a dealership?

Dealers don't make money to stay open and pay their employees off selling the actual cars, it comes from service and parts. If you weren't happy with the cost why didn't you take it to a independent? I don't know a dealership that wouldn't have given a quote or estimate ahead of time.

[kodpkd]

I have done business with many dealers,,,,, none have been this egregious. 500% markup on parts & oil. Charges for oil they didn't use. Double charges. This is way beyond normal dealer charges.
I will not be going to the Boulder BMW again.


I

[BigStan2000]

Hi All, have the same problem with my 2016 740i with 82k miles on it, posted it in 7 series with no replies yet. Code is 420641 Parking lock: Incorrectly applied. My car was not stuck anywhere and did not ran over anything. One morning 3 weeks ago just doing normal start, waiting till rpm drop to start driving, put in reverse, feel the gear engage, side mirror go down as supposed to and then immediately go into park by self. Do not see anything leaking on ground but did not remove protective cover yet. To by pass this, if I open the door and put it in gear it seems to engage and drive normally, shifts normally. When this is happening, the gears defiantly engage at first, verified by scanner, but goes into park by self in 2 seconds. Any suggestions, I will check fluid level over weekend and for leaks, but I really do not think its a problem, I replaced fluid at 60K, but just fluid, not pan. Any one else has suggestions or experience what else could it be? This is happening only intermittently and from cold start.

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by BigStan2000

Hi All, have the same problem with my 2016 740i with 82k miles on it, posted it in 7 series with no replies yet. Code is 420641 Parking lock: Incorrectly applied. My car was not stuck anywhere and did not ran over anything. One morning 3 weeks ago just doing normal start, waiting till rpm drop to start driving, put in reverse, feel the gear engage, side mirror go down as supposed to and then immediately go into park by self. Do not see anything leaking on ground but did not remove protective cover yet. To by pass this, if I open the door and put it in gear it seems to engage and drive normally, shifts normally. When this is happening, the gears defiantly engage at first, verified by scanner, but goes into park by self in 2 seconds. Any suggestions, I will check fluid level over weekend and for leaks, but I really do not think its a problem, I replaced fluid at 60K, but just fluid, not pan. Any one else has suggestions or experience what else could it be? This is happening only intermittently and from cold start.

When you say it "defiantly" engages gear do you mean definitely or defiantly(eventually)?

When you say it engages gear when the door is open is the 1st(moving fwd) or just revers? Can you engage 1st gear and move forward or does it engage and instantly fail back into park? If you can move forward, can you engage 4th gear?

When you say it only happens when its cold. So if the trans is at temp, can you go in and out of gears(fwd,revers) no issues?

Have you tried to use a thicker oil? See thread.
https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...1680599&page=5

You mentioned that you did the oil change, but did not replace the pan. The pan is the oil filter. That needs to be replaced.

[BigStan2000]

Originally Posted by Chilled

When you say it "defiantly" engages gear do you mean definitely or defiantly(eventually)?

When you say it engages gear when the door is open is the 1st(moving fwd) or just revers? Can you engage 1st gear and move forward or does it engage and instantly fail back into park? If you can move forward, can you engage 4th gear?

When you say it only happens when its cold. So if the trans is at temp, can you go in and out of gears(fwd,revers) no issues?

Have you tried to use a thicker oil? See thread.
https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...1680599&page=5

You mentioned that you did the oil change, but did not replace the pan. The pan is the oil filter. That needs to be replaced.

Thank you for reply. When engaging gear, I can feel the load change, I can see on scanner selected gear, but it instantly switches to park before i can let go of brake pedal and give throttle. After about 5-10 min warm up it would stay in gear and shift normally. Never I had it not engage gear after driving on same day, only on cold start ups. I did drain and fill only, no pan or filter, about 5 qrts of ZF8 white/blue bottle fluid.

[Clifton]

Originally Posted by BigStan2000

Thank you for reply. When engaging gear, I can feel the load change, I can see on scanner selected gear, but it instantly switches to park before i can let go of brake pedal and give throttle. After about 5-10 min warm up it would stay in gear and shift normally. Never I had it not engage gear after driving on same day, only on cold start ups. I did drain and fill only, no pan or filter, about 5 qrts of ZF8 white/blue bottle fluid.

5 quarts sounds pretty FULL especially without a pan & filter change. Many DYIs claim to expect only 4L / 4.2qts even though the ZF8 holds 7L. Is it possible that it was overfilled while cold and the trans self-protects until the fluid is warm/thin enough to lower the internal pressure. Or possible that is it was drained after a drive/operating temp and the oil was drained from oil cooler and there is too little fluid?

Questions to consider:

1. How shortly after the fluid change did your issue begin?
2. If it was delayed, did the issue surface as the weather got colder?
3. Was the car drained overnight cold or after a drive?
4. Was the amount of oil drained, measured?
5. Was the re-fill procedures followed to the exact letter?
   
   Specifically:
   
   cold fill --> wait for overfill to become slow drip --> snug fill plug --> start car --> run through each gear --> use scan tool to confirm trans Oil to 40-50* C --> check/fill fluid again while running --> final fill top off
   

If it were me, I'd double check the fill-level and possibly consider doing another service w/pan and be very anal about following the critical steps.

[BigStan2000]

Originally Posted by Clifton

5 quarts sounds pretty FULL especially without a pan & filter change. Many DYIs claim to expect only 4L / 4.2qts even though the ZF8 holds 7L. Is it possible that it was overfilled while cold and the trans self-protects until the fluid is warm/thin enough to lower the internal pressure. Or possible that is it was drained after a drive/operating temp and the oil was drained from oil cooler and there is too little fluid?

Questions for to consider:

1. How shortly after the fluid change did your issue begin?
2. If it was delayed, did the issue surface as the weather got colder?
3. Was the car drained overnight cold or after a drive?
4. Was the amount of oil drained, measured?
5. Was the re-fill procedures followed to the exact letter?
   
   Specifically:
   
   cold fill --> wait for overfill to become slow drip --> snug fill plug --> start car --> run through each gear --> use scan tool to confirm trans Oil to 40-50* C --> check/fill fluid again while running --> final fill top off
   

If it were me, I'd double check the fill-level and possibly consider doing another service w/pan and be very anal about following the critical steps.

I drove about 22K miles since oil change about 2 years ago with no issues. Only started happening recently, and not all the time. To me if feels like parking pawl would not disengage when asked or not enough pressure when trying to engage selected gear. Yesterday I was stuck at work trying leave, after about 5 min I got it to engage D by pressing accelerator quickly and it was not a smooth gear engagement/parking lock disengagement. Also when trying to just shift into N for a sec, it seems like the car is still locked in parking as I don't feel any movement for that brief second when I select Neutral. The code is 420641 Parking Lock: Incorrectly Applied.

[Clifton]

Originally Posted by BigStan2000

I drove about 22K miles since oil change about 2 years ago with no issues. Only started happening recently, and not all the time. To me if feels like parking pawl would not disengage when asked or not enough pressure when trying to engage selected gear. Yesterday I was stuck at work trying leave, after about 5 min I got it to engage D by pressing accelerator quickly and it was not a smooth gear engagement/parking lock disengagement. Also when trying to just shift into N for a sec, it seems like the car is still locked in parking as I don't feel any movement for that brief second when I select Neutral. The code is 420641 Parking Lock: Incorrectly Applied.

That code provided helps a little. This is what comes back for it.

Fault Description: "A fault occurs if the setpoint value of the parking lock sensor (engaged) does not match the driver's choice (disengaged).
The parking lock is engaged although the driver's choice is R, N or D."

Service Plan:

• Possible measure: correct transmission oil level
• Possible fault cause is a fault in the mechatronics.
• A faulty transmission may be the potential fault cause.