Engine Mounts DIY?

[stocktree]

Originally Posted by jsbaker

Vibration is not in the steering wheel it's on the floor. Tires are brand new and have been switched for another set and balanced multiple times. Wheels have been replaced with a known good used set. Shop inspected car and supposedly only found one leaking strut so both fronts were replaced but keep in mind I replaced both bad mounts so they missed those. Vibration is normally the worst around 75.

Sorry to hijack the thread :-(

Usually an engine at speed is smooth, unless it's not firing right. I doubt mounts are your high speed issue.
Does your tire shop dynamically balance the wheels?

[lonestar22]

Originally Posted by jsbaker

Vibration is not in the steering wheel it's on the floor. Tires are brand new and have been switched for another set and balanced multiple times. Wheels have been replaced with a known good used set. Shop inspected car and supposedly only found one leaking strut so both fronts were replaced but keep in mind I replaced both bad mounts so they missed those. Vibration is normally the worst around 75.

Sorry to hijack the thread :-(

Floor vibration = rear wheels
Steering vibrations = front wheels

[bigfwop]

Originally Posted by jsbaker

Vibration is not in the steering wheel it's on the floor. Tires are brand new and have been switched for another set and balanced multiple times. Wheels have been replaced with a known good used set. Shop inspected car and supposedly only found one leaking strut so both fronts were replaced but keep in mind I replaced both bad mounts so they missed those. Vibration is normally the worst around 75.

Sorry to hijack the thread :-(

This is actually a route I'm taking to rectify a slight vibration in the rear seats (Less than 10 Mph) . I have an x35i m sport with 3rd row and air suspension in the rear. Initially I got my wheels balanced out. This didn't work so I purchased new set of 4 tires (also needed replacing) and still have the issue. checked transfer case bushing which is good. front drive shaft has slight play but It wouldn't appear to be enough cause for concern. Center support bearing is also good. I'm at 100k now and Engine mounts need replacing anyway. I'm considering posting an entire thread on this really annoying issue since I've found very little on this being an issue. If anyone would like me to elaborate I'd be more than happy to.

[bigfwop]

Quick update as I'm working through this: The mounting arm is covered by a heat shield with small t25 torx bolts all over it. Removing is tediuous but required to gain access to one of the mount arm bolts. The bottom left is impossible to remove without disconnecting the axle shaft case. This design is comically bad and I'm convinced done on purpose to force you to take it in for service.

[Maverik259]

Lol this all sounds insanely not worth it. Anyone get a quote from the dealer or an Indy?

[randrews15]

Originally Posted by bigfwop

Quick update as I'm working through this: The mounting arm is covered by a heat shield with small t25 torx bolts all over it. Removing is tediuous but required to gain access to one of the mount arm bolts. The bottom left is impossible to remove without disconnecting the axle shaft case. This design is comically bad and I'm convinced done on purpose to force you to take it in for service.

I did mention in my earlier post that the axle shaft on x drive would need to be removed to get the passenger side mount out. It's definitely not service friendly, but you can do it with the right tools and patience. I did my old X5 in about 3 hours beginning to end. That also included doing the tension struts as well.

[bigfwop]

X on Jack stands.
Engine Support method highly advised via engine hoist and not jackstand to oil pan although that may work

[bigfwop]

Prior to getting to this point in this photo you would have needed to

1.Support engine

2.Disconnect O2 sensors,
-Drop exhaust down and back several inches. ( I recommend soaking bolts/nuts via liquid wrench and using high impact drill with a LOT of torque.)
I spent 1+ hour getting DP out of exhuast because of the tolerance and carbon build up. I recommend spraying liquid wrench in between to help slide it out
(Will need to renew DP to turbo gasket and clamp)

3. Remove passenger wheel, Brake disc, caliper, Caliper bracket, Upper wishbone/Pivot bearing lower control arm and swaybar link. I discovered plenty of buildup on bolt/nut for wishbone, Required heat gun and air impact hammer to push pivot bearing up and out. (Can be purchased at harbor freight for cheap)

At this point the axle shaft is held in the support bearing bracket with snap pin. In the blue you will need to leverage block of wood or large flat head screwdriver and bump the axle shaft out of the support bearing in the direction where the arrow shows. (Installation is reverse)

[bigfwop]

Once suspension dissambly has enough clearance you can remove to a certain extent

[bigfwop]

As you can see highlighted in Yellow, Clearance is now accessible to the bottom E16 bolt.
You will then need to slide axle out of the wheel bearing drop and pull as the axle shaft is really long. (You don't need to move axle completely out of the strut.

once the axle shaft makes clearance for the bracket you can remove the support bracket and put to the side. (Some diff fluid may leak)


I'm tired. More write up coming tmro

[Haroulli]

Wondering if anyone has a DIY guide to replace the engine mounts on a 35i? I have SDrive, I just did the transmission mount and it was a bit of PITA. Had to get the BMW pull/press tool to remove it.

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by bigfwop

As you can see highlighted in Yellow, Clearance is now accessible to the bottom E16 bolt.
You will then need to slide axle out of the wheel bearing drop and pull as the axle shaft is really long. (You don't need to move axle completely out of the strut.

once the axle shaft makes clearance for the bracket you can remove the support bracket and put to the side. (Some diff fluid may leak)


I'm tired. More write up coming tmro

This sounds awful