(100%) SA5AT ACC w/ SA5AR TJA Retrofit DIY

[SaNGRia]

Originally Posted by Wekma

Awesome job, thank you for all work you have put into this.

My pleasure buddy. Enjoy and please ask if you need any help. I am willing to help the community 🔥

[SaNGRia]

Originally Posted by blue dragon

So this is for coding the buttons on the wheel, interesting

Yes. You need to find correct version to activated not all values accepted

[SaNGRia]

Additional Info : If you look at the ICM CAFD on ur vehicle which includes ACC option, check this code : C_Abstandsstufe_init it is default coded with stufe_4 (stufe=steps) so i will change this to stufe_2 and see. If that default starts my ACC with 2 bar, then i am not touching my M button configuration and will be the happiest F85 owner since it will launch the ACC with 2 bar an no need to adjust for me anymore so i can keep both M buttons and ACC functionality. But i am not sure how TJA will be activated.

[SaNGRia]

I was able to install the HOD emulator today and activate the 5AR. Everything works perfect.

Here is the things you want to know :

1- TJA made for highway driving in the traffic for a reason. Lanes are not interrupted like regular streets. And while you are following a car in highway up to 35 mph steerin wheel icon pops up after TJA activated on HUD and because the KAFAS2 seeing the lanes very clearly, keeps the steering wheel in autonomous mode. Thats the reason you should drive on highway.

I overwrote 2 values.

1- I can drive with TJA in any road
2- I can drive up to 63mph instead of 35mph

The downside driving the ACC TJA in the street is, when you pass the traffic lights in between the intersection area there is no road lanes, and it cancels the TJA whenever lanes are disappears with a warning noise. And you will see a warning on Kombi and HUD saying that Lanes are too narrow or not detected.

Other than that i have a great news. I can manage the Distance and TJA activation with M button without changing the buttons configuration.

Originally M2 button is the one activates TJA. My M2 button configured with MDM and SportPlus modes. So whenever i click the M2 it was always asking the DSC will be OFF do you confirm. So because it needs confirmation i have to click 2 times everytime i wanna use my M2 button as you guys know.

So when i press that button like 2 sec it asks me confirmation while activating the TJA So M2 not engaged cause i didnt click 2 times and TJA activated. So works like a charm for me. And if i click the M1 button i can actually adjust the distance immediately. But i configured the distance 2 bar by coding so i dont even need to touch the M1 anymore. 2 bar is great for me.

And the regular cruise control buttons constantly activates ACC without pushing anything else. So now i have both World

Thread also updated!
Enjoy :

[SaNGRia]

I would like to point another important point for you ALL. When i scan the car with ISTA+ I only get 1 error, it is related to my ACC. The reason after looking at the possible solutions is the ACC i am currently using came from 2012 750 and probly the ishipment is 2011. So in 2011 ICM was quiet different than what we re using now. And as you guys remember 5AT wasnt exist. So is still BE2 Gen2 radar but made for 5DF ACC Stop & Go. And with the older ICM as you guys see on the picture, Pin 15 and Pin 16 was the S CAN communication point. So the HWEL and SW of this radar still looking for ICM 15 and 16 to communicate in the BMW system since the software written that way, But the current connection made to Pin 32 and pin33 which still sends the correct info and it works without an issue, but software cant find pin 15 16 and makes communication error even tho it is connected.

So since this is still the correct module for the 5AT, there is 2 solution :

1- Flash the Radar to correct car with correct version and it will remove the error
2- Use a module that came from at least 2014 or 2017 vehicle which made for newer ICM and SW will adopt to this application without a flash.

In the mean time i cant find the correct ishipment for the radar so HWEL always Blue, and cant flash it. But i will swap with my 2016 X6 radar and see the results.

[blue dragon]

Thanks for all the posts. Way more helpful that than Benvo who wouldn't answer a simple cabling question. The only thing he seemed to help was himself to people's money with quote of over 3k in parts and labour for this.

[SaNGRia]

Originally Posted by blue dragon

Thanks for all the posts. Way more helpful that than Benvo who wouldn't answer a simple cabling question. The only thing he seemed to help was himself to people's money with quote of over 3k in parts and labour for this.

My pleasure buddy. As i said before, everyone is free to perform anything they wanna do. I respect his perspective as well. But no one smarter than another, it is just a matter of how much time and energy you want to put on stuffs like this and share with people.

[skoold2003]

Originally Posted by SaNGRia

My pleasure buddy. As i said before, everyone is free to perform anything they wanna do. I respect his perspective as well. But no one smarter than another, it is just a matter of how much time and energy you want to put on stuffs like this and share with people.

Agreed, thank you for being so forthcoming with your experience!

[hecklestan]

Originally Posted by SaNGRia

I was able to install the HOD emulator today and activate the 5AR. Everything works perfect.

Here is the things you want to know :

1- TJA made for highway driving in the traffic for a reason. Lanes are not interrupted like regular streets. And while you are following a car in highway up to 35 mph steerin wheel icon pops up after TJA activated on HUD and because the KAFAS2 seeing the lanes very clearly, keeps the steering wheel in autonomous mode. Thats the reason you should drive on highway.

I overwrote 2 values.

1- I can drive with TJA in any road
2- I can drive up to 63mph instead of 35mph

The downside driving the ACC TJA in the street is, when you pass the traffic lights in between the intersection area there is no road lanes, and it cancels the TJA whenever lanes are disappears with a warning noise. And you will see a warning on Kombi and HUD saying that Lanes are too narrow or not detected.

Other than that i have a great news. I can manage the Distance and TJA activation with M button without changing the buttons configuration.

Originally M2 button is the one activates TJA. My M2 button configured with MDM and SportPlus modes. So whenever i click the M2 it was always asking the DSC will be OFF do you confirm. So because it needs confirmation i have to click 2 times everytime i wanna use my M2 button as you guys know.

So when i press that button like 2 sec it asks me confirmation while activating the TJA So M2 not engaged cause i didnt click 2 times and TJA activated. So works like a charm for me. And if i click the M1 button i can actually adjust the distance immediately. But i configured the distance 2 bar by coding so i dont even need to touch the M1 anymore. 2 bar is great for me.

And the regular cruise control buttons constantly activates ACC without pushing anything else. So now i have both World

Thread also updated!
Enjoy :

Appreciate for the sharing! Now I see how M2 button works. One question on the M1 button. Is M1 button still works for activate M1 setting? Or only works as distance adjustment? Thanks!

[SaNGRia]

Here is a quick look of how Original Steering wheel buttons operates the ACC + TJA feature :

[SaNGRia]

I posted a video for this to show you guys how it actually works before seen your question above M buttons now has double task. As soon as you click Cruise Control icon and set your existing speed, it turns on the ACC without TJA. I set the start distance 2 bar so i dont touch the M1 button, but if u do touch, M1 settings turns on and distance getting adjusted at the same time.

As you see on the video, M2 asks confirmation while activates the TJA which works great for me And if you click the Cruise control icon again, It turns off the Cruise and ACC and M buttons acts as normal. But i think when i click the M2 still activates the TJA.

Originally Posted by hecklestan

Appreciate for the sharing! Now I see how M2 button works. One question on the M1 button. Is M1 button still works for activate M1 setting? Or only works as distance adjustment? Thanks!

[SaNGRia]

A little Update here. After default coding the REMALI and REMARE units which is the seat belt reeling modules for Driver and Passenger side, 5AT with TJA codes being on the VO somehow disabled couple options on the Seat Belt such as making tightener after taking off was OFF. So i used my old CAFD file and FDL code the units then Both unit came with same error. I dig the issue and solved the problem. Problem actually comes from KAFAS not the Seat Belt modules.

After KAFAS also Default Coded with the New VO, It disabled the options PRE_CRASH_ON_OFF,SEND_FCW_VISIBILITY, FCW_ON_OFF, SEND_STATUS_IBRAKE, SEND_PARAM_IBRAKE.

KAFAS is the transmitter of Pre Crash Sensor, and it is connected with Flexray. So KAFAS turning of the transmitting such as GateWay, blocks the communication with the sensor and throws error.

Once values are coded back to normal, Seat Belt Reel working again.

Another good thing is, After adding the 5AT and 5AR to VO also updated the Owner's Manual with ACC and TJA options which i am 99.9% sure wasn't there because i have looked at after watching BMW Youtube videos regarding to 5AT feature and tried to find on mine, it wasn't there. Now they are also there. So it became totaly like a built in option.

Hope it helps!

[SupersixM]

🙌

[M3HNGRY]

So much want!

[SaNGRia]

Originally Posted by M3HNGRY

So much want!

Get the parts and keep going, Everything is documented. And crystal clear

[blue dragon]

I still need to finish mine. I've been at my cottage and have been in leisure mode

[SaNGRia]

Originally Posted by blue dragon

I still need to finish mine. I've been at my cottage and have been in leisure mode

That's Okay buddy. You will be so happy after DONE!

[Wekma]

I want to start by thanking SaNGRia, he was amazing throughout this process. Not only did he write the guide for this in which I followed completely, he assisted me throughout the installation process. I am not a BMW Technician and not quite as handy in this arena so I found a local BMW Technician that would take this job on. He was very apprehensive about the programming portion, he is not well versed in this space. So I decided to reach out to the very guide maker himself, SaNGRia. Immediately I was met with amazing support. I am all in at this point, I have bought the parts and located my local Technician, so gaining SaNGRia's support was imperative to the overall success and completion of this project. More to come on that.
I explained that the programming was the last hurdle, SaNGRia offered to remote into program the vehicle. This was a phenomenal solution from my point of view because it offered the best chance for success as he had the appropriate software and files needed to successfully implement both the ACC and TJA. Through the project we did hit a snag in completing this first shot out of the gate. The Technician installed everything correctly from what SaNGRia and I could determine. However, we kept hitting an error the ACC sensor. It was sharing the ACC Sensor was misaligned. We attempted to move the sensor physically multiple times, each time the angle values never changed. We determined that the ACC Sensor was faulty. SaNGRia to the rescue again.
Luckily I was blessed that SaNGRia is relentless in his project pursuits as well AND had an extra ACC Radar Sensor that fit my year make and model perfectly. The decision was easy, we were this far in. SaNGRia overnight shipped the sensor. The Technician installed the very next day and VOILA no issues and everything worked correctly. My vehicle now has a working and tested ACC radar sensor with TJA! I cannot share enough that this would not have been possible without SaNGRia's support and persistence to stick with me in completing this project. Timing was a challenge in coordinating the Technician and SaNGRia with a 3 hour time difference and multiple conflicting priorities and jobs. SaNGRia again was outstanding. I purchased the parts as listed in the guide.

Thank you, the car works amazingly with the intended new features! Car is safer and more comfortable. For my liking, it is much cooler as well!

Originally Posted by SaNGRia

Hello Guys,

I would like to start the thread of my ACC + TJA retrofit and will share all the steps here so we can have a nice DIY for this retrofit.

Project :

1) SA5AT Active Driving Assistant Plus :

a) Camera-based cruise control with braking
function (Video-ACC)
Part of SA5AT
− BMW: Selectable speed between 0 and 140 km/h,
braking to a full stop.
− Distance to a vehicle in front is maintained
(within system limits).

b) Camera-based front collision warning
Part of SA5AV, SA5AT, SA5AS
− System warns about a collision with a vehicle in front.
− With an imminent warning, the braking system is
pre-pressurized.
− Speeds above 60 km/h / 35 mph.
c) Camera-based city braking function
Part of SA5AV, SA5AT, SA5AS
− System warns about a vehicle ahead and brakes, after a
audible warning alert, autonomously with 4m/s² for 1.5
seconds.
− Only within speed range 5 - 60 km/h / 3 – 35 mph.
d) Camera-based person detection with city braking
function
Part of SA5AT, SA5AS
− System warns, at sufficient brightness, as from approx.
10 - 60 km/h / 6 - 35 mph about a probable collision with
pedestrians and supports the driver via brake
interventions (4m/s² for 1.5 seconds) shortly before a
collision.

SA5AT also includes 5DF and 5AS option so when you do the coding 5AS and/or 5DF has to be removed from the VO after 5AT is added to VO.

5AT uses FRR-01 Short Range Radar sensor unlike the new 5AU (Active Driving Assistant Professional) with FRR-02 Long Range.

So when you search on Ebay, you can actually buy any part number with FRR-01 which came from 2013+ vehicles and you can Flash the unit after installation. It will work without an issue. Do not look for the P/N on realoem for fitment. just look for the label for FRR-01 and BE2. The most important thing you need to actually look is the other label. It has to say ARS-3B which is GEN2 FRR-01. ARS-3A is GEN1 which made for 5DF not 5AT! So this will work without an issue!

What we need to accomplish this retrofit on F85/86?

1- FRR-01 Radar
2- Bracket for the sensor (66316851998)
3- 8 pin Radar Sensor Plug (61138364624 or 61138364620) or you can search 8Pin 4F0 972 708 Auto ACC Radar module plug connector,2-1534229-2 8P car sensor plug . I bought one OEM plug one aftermarket. The reason i bought the after market was, it comes with the silicone plugs that goes behind the holes to protect from water damage.
Attachment 2598001
4- If you buy the OEM plug, it will not come with the pins so you will need female pins x 4: 61131383776
5- Male pins x 4 : 61131393703
6- Ground Connector : 61138353763
7- Screws for the Radar Bracket : 07146777838 and 07146973023
8- 10 Meter CanBus Cable
9- Electrical Wire
10- 25 Ft Wire Loom Tube
11- Wiring Tape
12- Soldering Machine to add Canbus Cables to ICM and KAFAS2 Module or you can use M Connector
13- ACC Steering Buttons : 61319229485 ( I will try to run this differently and will not change the M1 and M2 buttons on the steering
14- HOD Emulator for TJA
15- Pin for the Fuse Box : 61136937069

I am still waiting couple of parts and they are somehow delayed ALOT. Sensor sitting in the same location more than 7 days. I had a bad luck with the Ebay shipping lately. But i was able to do the wiring harness today. I might just run the cable in to the cabin and do the wiring first then can remove the bumper and install the sensor and program the vehicle after.

Here is the homemade ACC Wiring Harness :





HOD :




Pin Out for the ACC Radar Plug + ICM + KAFAS2

ACC
Pin no 1 - plus F45 - fuses passenger side - Z7*1B pin no 4
Pin no 3 - S-CAN H - ICM Module A78*1B pin no 32 + KAFAS module - 12pin black A56*1B pin no 3
Pin no 6 - S-CAN L - ICM Module A78*1B pin no 33 KAFAS module - 12pin black A56*1B pin no 4
Pin no 8 - earth - earthing point next to hood's right hinge - Z10*6B

1- Bumper Removal and Radar Installation :

There are T30 bolts on the top under the hood that needs to be removed. All the 10mm bolts around the wheel arch and under the bumper needs to be removed. After that remove the wheel trims half way to access to 2 hidden T25 bolts under the wheel arch on each side which is pain in the butt to access if you are not removing the wheels like me. And it is alot harder to put them back. But what i find out easy to do is, First put all the bolts back under the bumper then it will keep the bumper connection points in place while you are trying to screw the bolts back on!

The right and left side of the bumper has wiring harness both has to be removed before drop the bumper. Also Fog light need to be removed from the harness. NIVI stays in the bumper and no need to remove the harness if you have the option like i do!

Bumper came with Accident Protection bar that already predrilled for the ACC Radar. 4 Bolts needs to be installed. 2 on the surface , 2 under the bar. The plastic cover around the ACC Radar bracket needs to be trimmed in order to install the bracket. I used dremell to cut the piece. It was pretty easy to install.

I also route the wires properly. Check out the pictures. Took me about 3 hours to do this by myself. Since i removed the bumper if you notice the left side of the radiator is silver while the right side has black plastic cover, which always bothered me. Since i was there i did paint the right side and left side with the same high temp paint to paint match. Looks great now!

One thing i noticed is i do not have SRSNVR and SRSNVL on the front. Which is short range side radars. I do have them at the rear bumper. And my vehicle equipped with SA5AS which is including Blind Spot Detection, Lane Departure Warning, Frontal Collision Warning, Pedestrian Warning with Braking, City Collision Mitigation with braking and Rear Cross Traffic Alert. Park Distance Control. So i dont think i will have any issue to activate the SA5AT with this.



2- Wiring Through Firewall

• Route the wiring harness from FRR Radar to Driver side Firewall
• Remove the Driver Footwell trim (3xT20)
• Remove the bonnet release handle with the trim behind it. (1 phillips screw)
• Lift the carpet and you will see the wiring grommet which has 2 precut area over there. Drill or use whatever will open a hole. This will be the access point of your wiring harness.
• The negative cable of the module will be installed on the ground point right before the grommet on the side of the engine bay. You wont miss it.
• KAFAS module right over OBD port area as well. With this step you will be done about 50% of the project.

The most annoying part was i couldn't remove the OBD port from the trim and that footwell trim is really on the way of everything!



KAFAS Wiring : There is 2 module side by side there. The one closer the wall is KAFAS2. A56*1B Blue 12 pin Plug. S High goes to Pin 3 and S Low goes to Pin 4



3- Arm Rest Console Removal and ICM Wiring :

You will need T20-T25-T30 and 10mm socket for this part.

• Remove the plastic trim all the way back after opening the arm rest divided console. Remove the screws. Remove the bottom part rear VENT by pulling it then remove the bolts on the bottom then remove the AC controller on the rear. Disconnect all the plugs. You will see another 2 torx bolts and pull the bottom side leather trim that goes all the way front middle console. Remove the single torx screw of the frontcarpet trim all the way footwell area on each side then slide toward to front and pull since there is 2 clips which engages with the plastic of the middle console plus some rivets holding it. Engagement happens where the other carpet piece (rear). Then slide bottom rear carpet trims of the middle console toward to front they will slide and come off.
• Remove the Hex headed 10mm bolts on each side. Has several of them including in between seat to trim and at the very back next to the rear ac controller area. Also you will see T30 torx bolts that hold the armrest cabin in place on the side. Total of 4 of them (Each side has 2) Then pull up the armrest . If you have Phone charger like me the left side of the arm rest leather piece attached with clips and comes off. When you remove the leather trim you will see 2 connection one fakra one plug. Remove them!

• When you are removing the arm rest console the Cigarette lighter and USB trim might come off , simply remove the wiring and put the arm rest away.

• Remove the NBT Controller trim by pullin from the chrome trim and remove the 2 plug one for the controller one for the Side buttons.

• Remove the Shift adjustment plug (3 bar) then unscrew the PARK button trim and remove the plug, put away.

• Remove the DCT shift bolts and remove the plug (Long plug), Put away.

• Remove the bolts for the cup holder and side Top Leather trim. Leather trim comes of then you will remove the 2 piece that is under the Leather trim so you can remove the cup holder from the place. Cup holder also holds cigarette lighter and there is a plug on the passenger side. Remove it also remove the plug from its place by twisting. This will allow you to pull that connector cable from the tiny hole so you can remove the cup holder. And put away!

• There is a T30 bolt right under the front AC panel that holds the middle console construction plastic piece. Remove it and also the cable that routed for NBT controller knob and DCT and all other remove from the rivets and push them under the plastic trim so when you slide the big plastic of the middle console they will not get damage.

• You re Done with 90% if you came to this point. Then you will see plastic tubes for the rear AC Plastic Tubes. DO NOT remove anything anymore

• Use 10mm wrench and remove the ICM 4 nuts. The driver side front nut is the tricky point here since there is another module on the top. So nuts can easly comes out but when you wanna remove the ICM you will see that the bolt and the other module on the top will cause ICM to stuck. So pull the ICM up evenly from all 4 corner and push up. It will come loose.

• Remove the plug and add the S High to 32 and S Low to 33. Plug back. Install everything the way you remove.

• I routed the Canbus cables to ICM then the power cable to passenger footwell area. Then route the power cable to F43 on the fuse box since it was empty.



4- Positive cable to Fuse Box :

I had to remove the Front Fuse Box and installed the Positive cable on F42 since it was empty and came with 5amp fuse already in it. The fuse panel pin i listed with the part number did NOT fit in this fuse box. Luckily i had Fuse Box panel from E9x series. I simply removed from the fuse box and that worked well.

Removing the Fuse panel :

• Before start the process disconnect the battery negative cable.
• Remove the carbon/wood trim by pulling closer from passenger side air vent. It comes out very easy. I did not remove completely it gave me access to all bolts/screws over there. You need 7mm with T15.
• Remove the air vent. (There is a trim on the side corner on top of the air vent needs to be removed first in order to access the vent screws)
• Remove the Foot well trim by turning the 3 knobs.
• Remove the airbag bar by removing 2 T30 bolts on the side
• Remove all the bolts that is holding the glove box behind that airbag trim
• Remove the side plastic cover right next to airvent to access the plugs which connects to glove box and unplug them before attempt to remove the glove box.
• There is a T30 bolt inside of the glove box. This will be the last bolt and you are able to remove the Glove box
• You will see 3 T30 bolt holding the fuse box. Remove it
• Now you are able to access the fuse box. Add the positive cable. If your F42 is taken just tap the wire on the existing cable of F45.
• Put everything back. Then push the start button once and go to front radar sensor and listen, If you are hearing weird noises, it is working



5- TJA HOD Installation







Programming :

1- Connect vehicle with Esys, Go to Expert/Coding, read vehicle FA, save FA to File FA5AT.xlm, Edit FA5AT add 5AT and 5AR to FA and save and Activate FA (No need to write the new FA to the vehicle)
2- SVT Actual - Read ECU and save as 5AT ist.xlm
3- KIS/SVT Target and click Calculate.
4- You should now see FRR on the module tree if your wiring done correctly.
5- CODE the DSC2,EMA (4d,4e), EPS, FRR, ICM, ICM-V, KAFAS2, BDC BODY with the new FA
6- Open ISTA+ , Read the car, Delete Fault codes. It should be all set. No need Flashing. At least i didnt flash anything and ACC is accepted with F85 5AT,5AR. Just make sure if you have 5AS and 5DF, delete them and add 5AR and 5AT.
7- After that if you wanna do calibration on the FRR then you should go to ISTA+

8- I have bunch of custom codes on BDC_BODY so i did FDL Code with this :

LRE_VERBAUT ==> aktiv
HOD_VERBAUT ==> aktiv
PERSONEN_WARNUNG_STA ==> aktiv (this value was always active before 5AT and 5AR on mine)

Make sure on ICM :

C_STA_Einschraenkung : On

C_Gateway_Application ==> aktiv
C_Gateway_Diagnose ==> aktiv
C_Gateway_NetworkManagement ==> aktiv

ASCM:

Zentralsensor_Rollover_y-z_low_g ==> aktiv (It was always active on mine before 5AT&5AR)


Overwritting Speed limit :

ICM/3000/C_QalcgRel_v_Tacho_aktiv_kmh (I have Km Cluster wert value : 63 makes 99km)
ICM/3000/C_QalcgRel_v_Tacho_aktiv_mph (for the US , wert value : 3F makes 63mph)

Overwriting only Highway use to any road :

ICM/ C_STA_Einschraenkung :

keine Einschraenkung = 00

FDL coded the following parameters:
BDC : PERSONEN_WARNUNG_STA --> aktiv
ACSM: Zentralsensor_Rollover_y-z_low_g --> aktiv
ICM: C_Stauerkennung_on --> on
ICM: C_Stauassistent_Vorhanden --> aktiv
NBT EVO : ACC_SGN --> aktiv

9- If you get a new steering wheel buttons for the ACC then go to BDC_BODY or if you have SZL CAFD and edit the steering button with the option you got under : LIN_VARIANTE_MFL

Attachment 2626715


Info for the steering buttons :

SLD=LIM
STA=TJA

Attachment 2626671


10- If you want to start the ACC with certain distance adjust the distance from ICM : C_Abstandsstufe_init and change the default Stufe_4 to desired option.

11- For the ACC Alignment you can use a Mirror that is 100cm ≈ 40 inch from the ACC sensor. Vertically at 90 degrees. And in horizontally parallel to the car. In begin of the procedure it will ask to put a tool on wheels and measure distance. Majority of us dont have this so put on the 4 measures asked 150-180 (mm).

Then go to ISTA+ / Vehicle Management / Service Functions / Driver Assistant / Active Cruise Control / Make the Calibration. It should do the trick without using the Pro Calibration Tools!

Additionally , If you wanna activate ACC/DCC function which switches ACC to DCC anytime you want by pressing 3 sec M1 Button, code this out:

C_Umschaltung_ACC_DCC ==> zugelassen

And If you want your SET button to become LIM :

ICM/ C_SLD_Funktion" ==> "aktiv"

KOMBI/ SLD_ENABLE ==> "aktiv"

And The "Res" button is now cruise control speed Set and Resume.

If you have REMALI and REMARE modules which is seat belt reeling system, You will also code this parameters on KAFAS not to get any errors regarding to pre crash sensor :

Make them all available. Some wert values shows 00, Gotta be 01.

PRE_CRASH_ON_OFF
SEND_FCW_VISIBILITY
FCW_ON_OFF
SEND_STATUS_IBRAKE
SEND_PARAM_IBRAKE

Thanks to my buddy Nguyễn for his continuous support!

I have done alot of custom flashings, programmings before come to this conclusions. At the end i realized that F85 actually accepts the ACC TJA by nature without needing F15 FA values!

Attachment 2630518

This project is completed with 100% success and dedicated for the forum members!

Onur

[SaNGRia]

Thank you so much Matt. It was pleasure to working with you. I really appreciated taking time and writing a very detailed review about the retrofit. I am so happy the project ended succesfully. Another F16 spoiled Enjoy.

Originally Posted by Wekma

I want to start by thanking SaNGRia, he was amazing throughout this process. Not only did he write the guide for this in which I followed completely, he assisted me throughout the installation process. I am not a BMW Technician and not quite as handy in this arena so I found a local BMW Technician that would take this job on. He was very apprehensive about the programming portion, he is not well versed in this space. So I decided to reach out to the very guide maker himself, SaNGRia. Immediately I was met with amazing support. I am all in at this point, I have bought the parts and located my local Technician, so gaining SaNGRia's support was imperative to the overall success and completion of this project. More to come on that.
I explained that the programming was the last hurdle, SaNGRia offered to remote into program the vehicle. This was a phenomenal solution from my point of view because it offered the best chance for success as he had the appropriate software and files needed to successfully implement both the ACC and TJA. Through the project we did hit a snag in completing this first shot out of the gate. The Technician installed everything correctly from what SaNGRia and I could determine. However, we kept hitting an error the ACC sensor. It was sharing the ACC Sensor was misaligned. We attempted to move the sensor physically multiple times, each time the angle values never changed. We determined that the ACC Sensor was faulty. SaNGRia to the rescue again.
Luckily I was blessed that SaNGRia is relentless in his project pursuits as well AND had an extra ACC Radar Sensor that fit my year make and model perfectly. The decision was easy, we were this far in. SaNGRia overnight shipped the sensor. The Technician installed the very next day and VOILA no issues and everything worked correctly. My vehicle now has a working and tested ACC radar sensor with TJA! I cannot share enough that this would not have been possible without SaNGRia's support and persistence to stick with me in completing this project. Timing was a challenge in coordinating the Technician and SaNGRia with a 3 hour time difference and multiple conflicting priorities and jobs. SaNGRia again was outstanding. I purchased the parts as listed in the guide.

Thank you, the car works amazingly with the intended new features! Car is safer and more comfortable. For my liking, it is much cooler as well!

[ruben356]

Awesome write up. I am heavily interested in tackling this on my F10 M5, i was wondering about the M1/M2 buttons but you just cleared that up. My biggest concern was other people having to change the DSC module, but i believe based on your process this might not be needed. I am going to do some digging in the F10 coding and ISTA and see if i might be able to replicate your steps on that platform. Thanks for all the input.

[skoold2003]

Originally Posted by ruben356

Awesome write up. I am heavily interested in tackling this on my F10 M5, i was wondering about the M1/M2 buttons but you just cleared that up. My biggest concern was other people having to change the DSC module, but i believe based on your process this might not be needed. I am going to do some digging in the F10 coding and ISTA and see if i might be able to replicate your steps on that platform. Thanks for all the input.

You can just look at your DSC module to see if it will work. If it doesn't say ACC then you need to replace it.

[ruben356]

Originally Posted by skoold2003

You can just look at your DSC module to see if it will work. If it doesn't say ACC then you need to replace it.

Thanks, i will take a look, i do have all the driver assistance packages on my M5, just doesn't auto brake because of being an M, i am hoping it is similar situation as SaNGRia.