BMS Catch Can Install

[BulsaraF36]

I'm interested as well. Thanks!

[TTV8M]

Originally Posted by 9vapors

The right side was a bit more interesting. I was using my big boy muscles and torqued the intake elbow a bit too much, and although I saw other folks have done the same, I still broke off the elbow. In doing so, it allowed me to epoxy it back on in the opposite direction completely simplifying the right side install. I needed to trim the silicone hose to point in the right direction, then added the longer hose routed under the intake. Was a 30 minute detour.

How you liking that turbo blanket

[Autobacs]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

mstgeer, Autobacs, and MBoss_F86 - Will reach in a few weeks once I have solid testing of the new internal flap valve catch can. The BMW flap valve represents an interesting challenge as it has a very low opening and closing pressure and why many of the aftermarket one-way valves don't work so well or give drive train errors.

I have a particular valve design in mind that I believe will be superior to the original BMW. Real world testing in all scenarios (from stop and go traffic, to full blown back to back 1/4 mile runs and everything in between will be completed within the next 2-3 weeks.

What is the status of your tests on this?

[mstgeer]

[QUOTE=Sophisticated Redneck;30525966]mstgeer, Autobacs, and MBoss_F86 - Will reach in a few weeks once I have solid testing of the new internal flap valve catch can. The BMW flap valve represents an interesting challenge as it has a very low opening and closing pressure and why many of the aftermarket one-way valves don't work so well or give drive train errors.

I have a particular valve design in mind that I believe will be superior to the original BMW. Real world testing in all scenarios (from stop and go traffic, to full blown back to back 1/4 mile runs and everything in between will be completed within the next 2-3 weeks.

Sophisticated Redneck
Any news to report?

[tfunk88]

I just had to kind of do an emergency PCV delete on the passenger side on my 50i. I was pulling the valve out of the intake tube to measure what diameter hose I needed and the plastic elbow just broke apart in my hands 😳

To make it to the parts store I ghetto rigged it like the first two pics.


Then got to Advance Auto and bought Dorman 90-062CD diff plug, 6’ of 3/4” ID heater hose, and an oil vent filter. Now the hose runs from the PCV valve to the bottom of the car with the filter to keep anything from going back up the hose and it’s basically what I was going to do anyways. No catch cans for this guy! 😂.

[TTV8M]

Originally Posted by Chilled

Saw that, he only blocked off the lower hose, and yeah think that one was removed from our engine. He kept top one connected to the pre-turbo via catch-can. "The catch cans allow crankcase pressure to vent to the intake of the turbos,"

What Ideally I would like to do is zero connection back to the intake. Catch-can straight to valve cover. But it seems no one is doing that.

I'm working on venting to the exhaust. Found a Moroso PCV universal kit and will begin experimenting. The angle of the Moroso exhaust inserts supposedly creates a vacuum in from the angle of the insert and the 2nd hole from the exhaust flowing by/threw it

Take a look at Moroso 25900

https://www.moroso.com/crankcase-eva...n-system25900/

Obv don't need the oil separator that comes with the kit.

On the mfg site there's a video that I think they say you can get 5 to 6 inches of vacuum which works out to approx 2-3 psi. Too much or not enough?

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

Apologies for being MIA, had a major project to complete before I could come back to this. Now that it is done, I can start back up on this very soon. Next up is eliminating those Horrific looking plastic flap valves that have plagued every generation of this engine family by going internal with them in the catch can itself. I want nothing but super clean AN lines and zero plastic in this system as it should be.

Looking good man. Why the two piece design for the PCV connector (Just curious)?

For the valve, have you seen Levels design. Its not in the can tho.

https://1evel.ru/product/level-perfo...mplekt-karbon/

Curious how it works.

[tfunk88]

Sooo finished my PCV delete/reroute. Used a total of 12 feet of 3/4 ID heater hose, 2 of the Dorman 90-062CD diff plugs, two oil breather filters, and a couple zip ties. Total cost was about $65 after military discount at Advance Auto. Excited to not have oil vapors going into my intake now!

[tfunk88]

Originally Posted by Cbozz

I actually just installed my catch cans... curious to see how much oil it will actually catch but I did find a minimal oil around the inside of the turbo inlet so hopefully that will mitigate it!
I also added a vargas oil filler cap crankcase vent to air and that is noticeably keeping the engine temps lower.

Very interested in your Vargas Turbo Tech vented oil cap. I ordered one for my N63TU, but it doesn’t seem to want to fit…I’m guessing because of the ridge around the oil filler. Did you have to do anything to yours to make it fit? Thanks!

[DrVirz]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

I don't plan on making many of these, just a passion project for fun and for those that demand the very best. Will update again in a few weeks and start a thread specific for it.

Very interested if and when available!

[Chilled]

So I wanted to be like all the cool kids, with their catch cans. After my pcv hose and intake boots failed I decided something needs to be done.

I was hoping to be done by down but life keeps find a way to add scope creep and delays.

So decided to try the agile deployment thing and just send it. The main purpose of this setup was to test the PCV valve cover adapter and see if

1. If it actually fits
2. if it leeks oil
3. If there is any benefit to the stock mounting adapter.

So on bank 5-8 I am running my adapter, to a modified catch can. On bank 1-4 I am running the stock PCV hose, to the same style modified catch can.

The end game is to be running AN12 where possible as the internal diameter of the hose and fittings the same as the factory hose. I know its overkill, and AN10 would be more than enough.

The AN12 Valve cover adapter and the flapper valve connector (this is the temp style, better to come).


Bolts up perfect, will see how it holds.


The catch can, i JB welded in a aluminium pipe into the dirty side, so it runs past the baffle. Also added some stainless steel scourers. to both sides of the baffle. The clean (air intake) side pickup is via the bronze 40 micron filter.




I wasn't sure where to mount the cans and did not want to mess with the fender support mounting bracket. So on one side i mounted to the -negative terminal and the other side I zip tied it to said fender mounting bracket.

I did check for clearance with the bonnet.

[Chilled]

For those that did mess with the bolt for the fender mount.

• Does taking the bolts out mess with the fender gaps/mounting?
• Does the thread have enough length in it for like a 3mm mounting bar?
• Is the nut a part of the frame rail or does it fall out when you remove the bolt? Thus you need to remove the fender lining to get at it from underneath?

[dentprotony@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Chilled

For those that did mess with the bolt for the fender mount.

• Does taking the bolts out mess with the fender gaps/mounting?
• Does the thread have enough length in it for like a 3mm mounting bar?
• Is the nut a part of the frame rail or does it fall out when you remove the bolt? Thus you need to remove the fender lining to get at it from underneath?

If you considering similar to my mounting, then no issues with the gap, bolt length is enough, just take the stock bolt out and mount up your L shaped bracket, super easy and straightforward

[Chilled]

Cheers, Yeah I did see yours. Was going to do that, but then had a mild oh F** moment not knowing what would happen when I backed that bolt out.

Cheers.

[Trion_f85]

Originally Posted by Chilled

The main purpose of this setup was to test the PCV valve cover adapter

Congrats Chiled you finallly got to install the catch cans.
That is a nice fitting valve cover adapter would definitely want one if i can get the AN10. Lets see how it holds up on your setup. Did it need any modifications before fitment?

Also love how you isolated the clean air pipe away from the baffle filter.

The stock flapper valves are best in ensuring constant flow are you thinking of changing them later as mentioned?

[Djhumvee]

Where do you get the valve cover adaptors?

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by Djhumvee

Where do you get the valve cover adaptors?

Designed them and had them made.

Originally Posted by Trion_f85

Congrats Chiled you finallly got to install the catch cans.
That is a nice fitting valve cover adapter would definitely want one if i can get the AN10. Lets see how it holds up on your setup. Did it need any modifications before fitment?

Also love how you isolated the clean air pipe away from the baffle filter.

The stock flapper valves are best in ensuring constant flow are you thinking of changing them later as mentioned?

No issue in doing AN10, however SR's would probably be cheaper. All the stuff I had made are a 1 off prototype run and this is my first attempt at this thing. I have no contacts for this and I just went with the first shop where the $$ was somewhat reasonable and could get me the stuff the soonest. And then I let the order sit in a box 2, nearly 3 months.

I am working on a custom catch can. The initial idea was just a can that would accept AN12 ORB fittings. Then I had more scope creep. I decided to get rid of the flapper valve. Got a design model up, but then more scope creep.

The current issue I'm trying to guess/work out is the negative pressure bypass in the flapper valve. The OE flapper does not completely seal. It has a tiny 2mm-ish pinhole for air to rush back into engine.

That is the issue, integrate both the flapper valve and pressure valve if the vacuum/suction from the engine was greater than X psi. It would open and work as that pinhole bypass.

*EDIT* Oh yeah, no mods needed for fitment. It reuses the factory bolts and pattern.

[Chilled]

BTW, does anyone have a reliable source for AN fitting from AliExpress.

My local supplier didn't have any black AN12 hose ends, given the $$. I figured it worth trying AliExpress for both the hose end and a ORB to AN.

Two different shops, and both sent absolute junk.

The ORB turned out to be a double ended AN <-> AN male and I could not get the hose to go into the socket. I even tried placing the hose into the freeze for a couple of hours.

I could live with the fact that the fact that the external dimensions are not to AN spec and a wrench would slip. But the hose has to go in.

[Trion_f85]

Originally Posted by Chilled

BTW, does anyone have a reliable source for AN fitting from AliExpress.

I got mine from here; all good had no issues whatsoever

AN fittings
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrvyG6k

NPT thread to AN adapter (3/8 NPT male slides exactly into stock flapper valve 0.71in )
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLYAHMk

AN Hose
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mK1M62c

[Trion_f85]

Originally Posted by Chilled

I am working on a custom catch can. The initial idea was just a can that would accept AN12 ORB fittings. Then I had more scope creep. I decided to get rid of the flapper valve. Got a design model up, but then more scope creep.

The current issue I'm trying to guess/work out is the negative pressure bypass in the flapper valve. The OE flapper does not completely seal. It has a tiny 2mm-ish pinhole for air to rush back into engine.

Yea i understand your issue on the leakhole negative pressure thing, but how sure are we the engine can reach that amount of vacuum (X psi) while catch cans are installed.
In my case i tend to concentrate on how easy the valve would open and close and how fast the blow by gasses are routed out since im venting to air.

[Chilled]

It wouldn't be a high psi amount, maybe like 5-ish. Just enough so you are not sucking in the seals. Would that mean any significant performance boost, nope.

Its kinda on principle thing. If I'm going to all this effort, I kinda wanna see if I can improve on the current design. Or learn why the current design is the better approach.

For me it's not a commercial thing, its more of an excuse to play with 3D Modeling so I'm not looking at $$ viability. But because I'm new to this, even basic sub component sourcing is a PITA.

[Chilled]

No real update on the adapter and cans. Only manged to do 200-ish KM no far no leaks and nothing in either can. Only about 20 of that was on a private mountain pass. The rest was burbs and freeway.

I did have a moment to mess the other scope creep and thoughts? This isn't final, would like to remove the silicone reducer. Haven't taken for drive yet.

Too tight, not enough flex from intake to turbos?





There is unfortunate some rubbing on the alternator, +cable and the back of the oil filler.



The oil filler side was a massive PITA.


Yes the top cover thing does go back on.