S63TU engine seized - rebuid, replace, or relinquish?

[I Luv BMW]

Yeah I can see that. If it was old oil, not really sure what to make of that given an oil change was done 7,000 km prior. But hearing now that maybe even that was 2,000 km too late. And then all the damage done over the first 5 years of its life at 20,000km oil changes.

[Chilled]

Yeah, its sad how BMW and most manufacturers are seemingly trying to kill their engines/ cars so people have to buy new.


FYI. BMW US changing service interval to 10,000Mile from 15,000. The even sadder thing is that even if US changes it, it doesn't apply here.
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=868293

*edit* there is probably a better source of info, but its the first one that popped up on a quick google.

[I Luv BMW]

Interesting. M5/M6 replace engine oil and filter every 10,000 miles, which is approx. 16,000km. But even that is arguably too long, no?

I guess these cars were never meant to be driven 5 years. Drive 3 years or so and trade in for the new model once warranty period ends. Then new model continues to be serviced at BMW dealership to preserve warranty etc., then the cycle goes on.

I want to hold onto the car because - how many more V8s are going to be made in the future, and obviously I don't have the means to buy an F95/F96.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

If you are planning on keeping it and never plan on tracking it, what about the idea of replacing the short block with a new n63 replacement engine from BMW which are on sale right now at 4200 dollars? (with core charge it will be about 6500) The internal differences between the n63 & s63 are the s63 has additional oil sprayers, forged pistons, crank has additional balancing, additional coolant passages in the heads. The previous gen used to have different exhaust cams but looking at the parts list on the TU, both the n63 & s63 cams show the same part numbers now. Your turbos and manifolds all will bolt right up to the n63 short block.

All of these mods are centered around making the engine hold up to track abuse. Replacing it with a n63 short block will diminish the resale value but again if you plan on keeping it for the long haul and don't plan on tracking it, this might be an option. If you consider it, I would just confirm with some engine builders that this is possible and I am not missing anything. Kind of a last resort idea but something to think about if otherwise you are looking at walking away at a massive loss.

https://parts.bmwnorthwest.com/p/BMW...002420727.html

[I Luv BMW]

Thanks for the suggestion Redneck...but don't think they do international shipping! Damn Aus so isolated from the rest of the world lol

[ArthurMorgan]

Originally Posted by I Luv BMW

I guess these cars were never meant to be driven 5 years. Drive 3 years or so and trade in for the new model once warranty period ends. Then new model continues to be serviced at BMW dealership to preserve warranty etc., then the cycle goes on.

That's definitely part of it. I really like my X5 M, but it's very obvious that BMWs in general are not built to last, nor intended to be easily repairable (and borderline on being hostile against DIY) - extraordinarily cheap underhood plastics such as the intake and CCV tubes, awful gaskets, copious use of one-time use clamps, etc.

The second, and biggest problem, seems to the be fuel efficiency and environmental regulations pushing for ever extended OCIs with increasingly thinner oil. A 10-15k mile OCI is probably acceptable in a commuter shitbox with a more basic I4/I6/V6 or even NA V8. To me though, 10k miles in a high strung hot-V TT V8 is just asking an awful lot of your oil. How sending low mile wrecked engines and cars to the junkyard is more gooder for the environment is beyond me, but I also don't get paid millions of dollars to lobby for such insanity.

Even worse when the car is in a hot climate and experiences a lot of stop-and-go driving. I originally decided to do 7500mi OCIs when I first got the X5 to match how I maintain my other cars, but given that I'm in Texas, the summers are brutal, and I do hit traffic fairly often, I'm considering dropping that down to 5K. I don't drive a lot, and the shorter interval won't cost me that much in the long run.

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by I Luv BMW

Thanks for the suggestion Redneck...but don't think they do international shipping! Damn Aus so isolated from the rest of the world lol

Just reach out to the local BMW parts dep. I found that, as long as its a valid P/N and the part actually exists. They get it shipped for free from Germany. I've never tried with an entire engine.

My question would be is how would they handle seen a S63 returned.

Interestingly enough our BMW part site has the 4.4 LB(full price) and the block+piston parts up. Can't find the just the 50iX


Sophisticated Redneck Hey, just looking at realoem. What the difference between the 50ix, and the 50ix 4.4? They have different P/N for the LB but just the block+piston P/N are the same.

[I Luv BMW]

Originally Posted by ArthurMorgan

That's definitely part of it. I really like my X5 M, but it's very obvious that BMWs in general are not built to last, nor intended to be easily repairable (and borderline on being hostile against DIY) - extraordinarily cheap underhood plastics such as the intake and CCV tubes, awful gaskets, copious use of one-time use clamps, etc.

The second, and biggest problem, seems to the be fuel efficiency and environmental regulations pushing for ever extended OCIs with increasingly thinner oil. A 10-15k mile OCI is probably acceptable in a commuter shitbox with a more basic I4/I6/V6 or even NA V8. To me though, 10k miles in a high strung hot-V TT V8 is just asking an awful lot of your oil. How sending low mile wrecked engines and cars to the junkyard is more gooder for the environment is beyond me, but I also don't get paid millions of dollars to lobby for such insanity.

Even worse when the car is in a hot climate and experiences a lot of stop-and-go driving. I originally decided to do 7500mi OCIs when I first got the X5 to match how I maintain my other cars, but given that I'm in Texas, the summers are brutal, and I do hit traffic fairly often, I'm considering dropping that down to 5K. I don't drive a lot, and the shorter interval won't cost me that much in the long run.

Thanks for your thoughts, Arthur Morgan. Interesting. In your opinion, would an S63TU engine refurbished with upgraded internals, correct oil, shorter oil change intervals, warm up/cool down phase (in short, correct maintenance) prolong the engine's life, or are these just destined to blow up around 100k km regardless?

[I Luv BMW]

Originally Posted by Chilled

Just reach out to the local BMW parts dep. I found that, as long as its a valid P/N and the part actually exists. They get it shipped for free from Germany. I've never tried with an entire engine.

My question would be is how would they handle seen a S63 returned.

Interestingly enough our BMW part site has the 4.4 LB(full price) and the block+piston parts up. Can't find the just the 50iX


Sophisticated Redneck Hey, just looking at realoem. What the difference between the 50ix, and the 50ix 4.4? They have different P/N for the LB but just the block+piston P/N are the same.

The last quote that I got from BMW was just under $60K for a new LB. I asked about refurbished LBs but they were pretty cagey about it and wanted to pull apart the engine first.

[Chilled]

Were you going through the Parts guys or the service reps? You may get 2 diff answers.

Maybe just a blind call to the parts guy simply via a P/N. But again, if the refuse to take that S63 as a return for the N63. So if going blind order via parts guy, I would want it in writing that they will take a S63 core. The full $$ is around $54k for a N63, the S63 is $58K.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by I Luv BMW

Thanks for the suggestion Redneck...but don't think they do international shipping! Damn Aus so isolated from the rest of the world lol

As Chilled mentioned, you should be able to take that part number to your local BMW dealer and get it for a similar price. Have the indy shop that is doing the work for you call the dealer with part #: 11002420727. They might even have it in stock if you are lucky or at the very least order it in for you with minimum freight charge.

Part numbers are everything when it comes to BMW, the reason why this part number is so cheap and no 50K is because of the class action lawsuit BMW lost on the n63 valve stem seals (same vale stem seals on used on the S63, but like the previous gen lawsuit, the s63 was not included in the lawsuit.

I doubt they will take the s63 back as a core but it doesn't hurt to ask, Even with the core charge you are looking at under 7K for a 50k engine...

The only kink I could see in this is if the US engine block wont work in your M (I think AUS has right side steering wheels correct?) as I believe the discount engines only applies to the US flavor and I believe the engine mounts are different to make room for the steering rack on right hand drive. Something you will have to confirm before proceeding and make sure there are no show stoppers between the US version and the AUS version of the engine block.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by ArthurMorgan

That's definitely part of it. I really like my X5 M, but it's very obvious that BMWs in general are not built to last, nor intended to be easily repairable (and borderline on being hostile against DIY) - extraordinarily cheap underhood plastics such as the intake and CCV tubes, awful gaskets, copious use of one-time use clamps, etc.

The second, and biggest problem, seems to the be fuel efficiency and environmental regulations pushing for ever extended OCIs with increasingly thinner oil. A 10-15k mile OCI is probably acceptable in a commuter shitbox with a more basic I4/I6/V6 or even NA V8. To me though, 10k miles in a high strung hot-V TT V8 is just asking an awful lot of your oil. How sending low mile wrecked engines and cars to the junkyard is more gooder for the environment is beyond me, but I also don't get paid millions of dollars to lobby for such insanity.

Even worse when the car is in a hot climate and experiences a lot of stop-and-go driving. I originally decided to do 7500mi OCIs when I first got the X5 to match how I maintain my other cars, but given that I'm in Texas, the summers are brutal, and I do hit traffic fairly often, I'm considering dropping that down to 5K. I don't drive a lot, and the shorter interval won't cost me that much in the long run.

BMW could do more to ensure they make it past the 100k mile mark even with the thin BS oil but getting everyone to come back every 5 years for a new ride keeps the cash flowing and the execs mistresses happy and thus why such brilliant engineered machines have stupid plastic connections on critical parts that fail just outside of warranty...

You can make them last to 200K miles though, run a good 5-40, use LM Mos2 additive and change every 5k miles. Open you hood when you park in secured areas (sounds mundane but this makes such a huge difference) and let the heat out. I am at 189K miles now on the original 11 year old engine and still pushing 600hp. This platform is amazing when properly maintained. Just gotta keep an eye on those silly plastic bits and use the right oil and change every 5k, especially with the stock CCV system.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by Chilled

Just reach out to the local BMW parts dep. I found that, as long as its a valid P/N and the part actually exists. They get it shipped for free from Germany. I've never tried with an entire engine.

My question would be is how would they handle seen a S63 returned.

Interestingly enough our BMW part site has the 4.4 LB(full price) and the block+piston parts up. Can't find the just the 50iX


Sophisticated Redneck Hey, just looking at realoem. What the difference between the 50ix, and the 50ix 4.4? They have different P/N for the LB but just the block+piston P/N are the same.

From what I understand, there are 3 flavors of the engine - Euro Spec, US Spec, and a smaller 4 liter version with a reduced stroke for the Asian markets. Most likely due to differences in right and left hand drive on the US & Euro spec but I am not 100% certain

[I Luv BMW]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

As Chilled mentioned, you should be able to take that part number to your local BMW dealer and get it for a similar price. Have the indy shop that is doing the work for you call the dealer with part #: 11002420727. They might even have it in stock if you are lucky or at the very least order it in for you with minimum freight charge.

Thanks SR, I will give them a try. It is a long weekend now here in Aus so will have to wait till next week.

Apologies in advance for the rookie question - assuming I can fit an N63 in place of an S63, will it have the same performance as the S63? Also, I assume the existing ECU will need to be retained, so I'm guessing some coding will need to be done to make sure it communicates with the N63?

[I Luv BMW]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

You can make them last to 200K miles though, run a good 5-40, use LM Mos2 additive and change every 5k miles. Open you hood when you park in secured areas (sounds mundane but this makes such a huge difference) and let the heat out. I am at 189K miles now on the original 11 year old engine and still pushing 600hp. This platform is amazing when properly maintained. Just gotta keep an eye on those silly plastic bits and use the right oil and change every 5k, especially with the stock CCV system.

This gives me more hope/confidence!

RK Autowerks also got back to me - they can ship to Aus. Including the core charge I expect will cost approx USD20K inclusive of shipping. Might be worth considering. This will be a tough choice! Been looking at the M340i LCI and part of me also wouldn't mind just a fresh start with a new-ish car altogether either.

[bmwx5er]

There’s someone local here in the Seattle area parting out a ‘16 X6M, asking $7k for the engine with 62k miles. It may not be cost-effective to ship it overseas, but FYI if you’re interested. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...ibextid=6ojiHh

[I Luv BMW]

Thanks everyone for their suggestions. I have just about decided on a RK Autowerks stock rebuilt long block with ACL rod bearings replacement. I am confirming some final details with my mechanic and will look to make an order in next 24 hours.

Key reasons for this decision are:
- The cost of the RK engine including shipping, core charge, and FX, is only slightly more expensive than a wrecker/junkyard engine with high mileage.
- The cost to purchase a wrecker/junkyard engine and inspect/replace components will likely cost the same as the RK engine which is straight drop in.
- Installing the RK long block would probably take the same, if not a shorter, amount of time than the above option.
- I would get a much superior product via RK than the junkyard option.
- My correspondence with RK gives me a lot of confidence. Very responsive and direct, and answered my many questions. Not sure if I was corresponding with RK himself, but emails were signed off as “R”.

The question I now have is - what are some other components I can look to replace to take advantage of the engine being out? Injectors? CCV? Any others which would be worth replacing given the car is 100k KM?

[Chilled]

Good to see they are responding.

In the RK rebuild is +/- the same as a unknown junker. RK sounds like an awesome option. Keeping within a budget, did you think about maybe throwing in some upgraded rods, trade the stock ones in?

Did you ask them about the Left Hand vs Right Hand drive? Are there any compatibility issues or parts that you will need to transfer?

[I Luv BMW]

An RK stock rebuild (with only rod bearings upgraded) will cost slightly more than:
- The flooded junkyard engine with 60Kish KMs
- A wreck junkyard engine with 90K+ KMs with internal components upgraded.

Upgrading the rods on the RK engine will push the budget more than I am willing.

RK confirms the LB is direct drop in based on my VIN, but obviously I will need to use existing manifolds, turbos, etc. No LH or RH compatibility issues mentioned.

I figure that the RK build (even with mainly stock components) is likely to be of a superior quality than any "rebuild" I can get here, since this is RK's business.

I was just about sold on the RK option but the only thing which has me hesitant at the moment is that there is only ability to pay via wire transfer, no Paypal or credit card. I understand their concern (fraud, etc), and not trying to throw shade on anyone, but it has me spooked from my perspective, as practically I have very little recourse if for whatever reason the engine doesn't turn up (although the shipping will ensure it).

And reading some of the negative reviews on these boards (of which there aren't many) is not helping either. I may need to dwell on this one a bit more.

[Chilled]

hmm, the payment bit suxs. I would be hesitant to drop $30K, into a hole without a way to get it back if substances hit fan.

Would they be willing to do like a 50/50 via wire/cc or even a Aus bank escrow?

[I Luv BMW]

Yeah for sure. I am trying to find out. Seems every time I think I land on a good option, there are some pretty significant hurdles. Is it all worth it? Guess I will soon find out. RK tells me that they have shipped several S63TU engines to Australia - I just wish I could speak to some of these owners.

[Autobacs]

Originally Posted by I Luv BMW

Yeah for sure. I am trying to find out. Seems every time I think I land on a good option, there are some pretty significant hurdles. Is it all worth it? Guess I will soon find out. RK tells me that they have shipped several S63TU engines to Australia - I just wish I could speak to some of these owners.

Ask them who they are. They know why you want to know and they should not have a problem with you querying them. I would expect they should be more than willing to have their customers vouch for them.