Tired to fight against the issue. (2016 X5 50i)

[oojnah]

I was picked up 2016 x5 50i at last October. and here's history of my service visit.

Feb, was recalled for engine software update
Feb, was in service for HUD not working
Mar, was in service for engine oil top up
June, was in service for DriveTrain Malfunction
Aug, was in service for engine oil change

and I still have vibration on my car, and TailGate rattle noise. The service CAN NOT verified the issue. When I bring the TailGate Noise issue to in front of them, they just said "It's normal. even if you fix it now, it will come again." What? WTF...

These are the issues for last 10month.
I am totally tired with these issues and it's wasting of my time.

The car is for family daily use and I drive gently. Compare with my previous car, I am very disappointed.

I am seriously want to change another car. it's so stressful.

Is anyone on same boat?

Thanks,

[wifesbimmer]

I bought my wife the X5 4 months ago and I have to say that we are very happy with the vehicle so far. The only problem we've come across was the HUD that sometimes never came on. I have my fingers crossed..

[Gilly1964]

Originally Posted by oojnah

it's so stressful

First world problem?

[jugdish]

Originally Posted by Gilly1964

First world problem?

I get his griping... While I've not had an issue with my X5 35d, if I did, I'd be just as upset as the OP. $75k for a vehicle with that many service issues is ridiculous... especially considering I've got a $20k Kia Soul that's been stellar since day one. When Kia trumps a Lux category vehicle in reliability, that's a bit of a black eye...

[IvanLZ]

Sorry to hear about your issues. The 50i seem to have more problems than the 35i. My X5 just turned 1 year and everything is still fine except for the HUD turning off at times.

[P1]

That's aggrevating to say the least. The time we waste on this gets annoying, and when you have kids, you need something reliable.

[alphaod]

I've done some top up now my car has more miles. I got a drivetrain malfunction error, but after ripping out my RaceChip, it never came back.

I'm not sure why you would have a grievance for the DME update; you can refuse that if you wanted or scheduled it to coincide with your service.

As for vibration, perhaps your tires need rebalancing? Mine is perfectly fine. I had once a vibration that I felt, and it turns out one of the wheel weights fell off, so perhaps have that looked at.

I guess the tailgate rattles a bit on mine when I hit a bump or run on uneven ground; I mean the hood also flexes when I drive really fast. Seems normal to me.


Anyways the more complicated the car is, the more likely it will have problems. The BMW is doing quite well actually. We have some other vehicles. Our Porsche seems to need expensive parts all the time not to mention it seems to need an oil top up every other fill up. Our Land Rover has these minor things like the moonroof cover derailing. We have this Audi where the instrument panel will just go blank (all the gauges will stop working)—happened many times; and the engine wouldn't start at higher altitude. A buddy with a Mercedes has problem with his seats all the time; the dealer has replaced the active seat bolsters three times already and replaced this driver seat as well for just breaking. Friends of mine with exotic cars have it way worse.

[UnhappySwede]

Yes I am in the same boat. I'm up to about 20 repair shop visits since january. 4 times for glass, a couple of times for engine failures, endless balancing issues with the runflats and so on. The thermostath and EGR valve each failed 5 months after delivery, things that usually last a lifetime. Left me with "drivetrain malfunction" on a roadtrip.

And the repair shop always need a day for looking up whats wrong, and then another day or two for ordering the parts. And I always have to arrange for people picking me up and driving me back.

Yes Im bitter too.

[Bahn360Photo]

rattles are never ever fixed by the dealer, in my experience.

i had a slight rattle in the dash and i found a clip lose, when i was at the dealer two techs looked for the cause for an hour and said it was just me. (they are mechanics with mechanical breakdown knowledge, everything else is not worth wasting your time)

my friend had an m3 that had creaks and squeaks like a 20 year old ford and dealer said its normal (he changed his car to m4 because he couldn't take it)

[stewy604]

OP, which dealer in Vancouver are you dealing with? Through all the issues I've had with my F15 (bought & serviced at Brian Jessel BMW), they've really stepped up and took care of me. That said, it's still very frustrating to have a vehicle in this class spend so much time in the shop.

To your service history, in 10 months of ownership you've had 5 trips to the dealer, really not that bad in all honesty compared to some (myself included). The software update I assume was proactive, not a result of failure? The engine oil top up and oil change are standard service items. So really, not to discount your post, but you've had 2 warranty repairs in 10 months (outside of the tailgate issue). What is the vibration you speak of?

[Cavman]

Stumbled across your post and noticed you mentioned "tailgate rattle".

I have also had this "rattle/creaking" on my 2015 X5 35 and when I took it in to the dealer the technician immediately knew what the issue was. He went and got a torx wrench and started adjusting a torx screw in the tailgate. I couldn't see exactly what he was doing but when I got back in the car, there was no more rattle and no more creaking. He said they discovered this common problem with the previous X5 (e70) and it still happens in the F15.

Unfortunately, two weeks later, the rattle/creaking came back, albeit not as bad as before, so I scanned the web and found the following from a guy with an older X5 (e70 or maybe e53) that seemed to be very similar to what the technician was working on on my F15.

So I am copying a post from another site (BH-if that's not ok then feel free to take it down) but the gist is that there's a 1" diameter, circular rubber bumper with a Torx screw in the center, on each side of the tailgate. By adjusting the torx screw and the rubber bumper, this owner was able to eliminate the rattle/creaking.

"I'll try to get pics later. In the meantime, if you open the hatch, you will see a small round bumper on each side of the opening. It's about 1"diameter with a torx screw in the middle. Loosen the screw and turn the rubber bumper clockwise until it bottoms out and you hear a ratcheting sound. then retighten the torx screw. This allows the tailgate latch mechanism, which is "V" shaped to fully seat in the lower hatch and prevent side movement which causes the rattle. I haven't had any more problem since i made the adjustment a few weeks ago."

Am going to try it myself tonight. Worth a shot if you have a torx screwdriver handy and are willing to try to make an adjustment yourself.

Hopefully this can cross one of the problems off your list.

Good luck.

[pokerface]

Originally Posted by stewy604

To your service history, in 10 months of ownership you've had 5 trips to the dealer, really not that bad in all honesty compared to some (myself included). The software update I assume was proactive, not a result of failure? The engine oil top up and oil change are standard service items. So really, not to discount your post, but you've had 2 warranty repairs in 10 months (outside of the tailgate issue). What is the vibration you speak of?

+1

drivetrain malfunction could be a result of low battery charge too.

These cars tend to need a bit more finicky

[oojnah]

Originally Posted by alphaod

I've done some top up now my car has more miles. I got a drivetrain malfunction error, but after ripping out my RaceChip, it never came back.

I'm not sure why you would have a grievance for the DME update; you can refuse that if you wanted or scheduled it to coincide with your service.

As for vibration, perhaps your tires need rebalancing? Mine is perfectly fine. I had once a vibration that I felt, and it turns out one of the wheel weights fell off, so perhaps have that looked at.

I guess the tailgate rattles a bit on mine when I hit a bump or run on uneven ground; I mean the hood also flexes when I drive really fast. Seems normal to me.


Anyways the more complicated the car is, the more likely it will have problems. The BMW is doing quite well actually. We have some other vehicles. Our Porsche seems to need expensive parts all the time not to mention it seems to need an oil top up every other fill up. Our Land Rover has these minor things like the moonroof cover derailing. We have this Audi where the instrument panel will just go blank (all the gauges will stop working)—happened many times; and the engine wouldn't start at higher altitude. A buddy with a Mercedes has problem with his seats all the time; the dealer has replaced the active seat bolsters three times already and replaced this driver seat as well for just breaking. Friends of mine with exotic cars have it way worse.

Thank you for the comment.

It's tempting but I didn't do any tuning on my X5.
For s/w update, The Service recommend to commence to get better engine performance. not sure but they just said new s/w have more precise control.

As for vibration, when the DriveTrain issue was happened, the car was in Service for 1week. The Service did every test what they could(road test, engine check up, tire, software ...) but the answer was "Not Sure" they just conclude for bad gas. To be honest, I can not buy this answer. Because I filled 91-octane all the times for any gas station but why only my car complaint about it? In addition, they also asked to go Shell all the time.

I know BMW car is very complicate machine but it takes my effort and time too much.

[oojnah]

Originally Posted by UnhappySwede

Yes I am in the same boat. I'm up to about 20 repair shop visits since january. 4 times for glass, a couple of times for engine failures, endless balancing issues with the runflats and so on. The thermostath and EGR valve each failed 5 months after delivery, things that usually last a lifetime. Left me with "drivetrain malfunction" on a roadtrip.

And the repair shop always need a day for looking up whats wrong, and then another day or two for ordering the parts. And I always have to arrange for people picking me up and driving me back.

Yes Im bitter too.

I am sorry to hear.

Yes if any issue arise, It always takes 1 day minimum so I have to rent a alternative car(The Service provide only 1 day + require extra payment for insurance) and have to leave early from work... I just got tired

[oojnah]

Originally Posted by Bahn360Photo

rattles are never ever fixed by the dealer, in my experience.

i had a slight rattle in the dash and i found a clip lose, when i was at the dealer two techs looked for the cause for an hour and said it was just me. (they are mechanics with mechanical breakdown knowledge, everything else is not worth wasting your time)

my friend had an m3 that had creaks and squeaks like a 20 year old ford and dealer said its normal (he changed his car to m4 because he couldn't take it)

yes I agree. I am not expecting they can fixed.

When they say "It's normal", that was quiet embarrassing. I was upset with their attitude. they treat me as picky pet peeve.
If I drive the car couple of years, I can take that since the car is getting old too. But nobody want to have the issue for new 90K dollar car.

[oojnah]

Originally Posted by stewy604

OP, which dealer in Vancouver are you dealing with? Through all the issues I've had with my F15 (bought & serviced at Brian Jessel BMW), they've really stepped up and took care of me. That said, it's still very frustrating to have a vehicle in this class spend so much time in the shop.

To your service history, in 10 months of ownership you've had 5 trips to the dealer, really not that bad in all honesty compared to some (myself included). The software update I assume was proactive, not a result of failure? The engine oil top up and oil change are standard service items. So really, not to discount your post, but you've had 2 warranty repairs in 10 months (outside of the tailgate issue). What is the vibration you speak of?

I am at same dealership with yours.
s/w update was voluntary but what I want to say, I have to set aside a day for every visit. I am okay with regular checkup but afraid what will coming up next.

for the vibration, I had DriveTrain Malfunction about two month ago. after that I clearly feel the vibration around tail but the service could not verified it. they just turned out bad gas and ask me to go Shell. For now, I asked them to test drive another 50i to compare and I am waiting the car available.

[oojnah]

Originally Posted by Cavman

Stumbled across your post and noticed you mentioned "tailgate rattle".

I have also had this "rattle/creaking" on my 2015 X5 35 and when I took it in to the dealer the technician immediately knew what the issue was. He went and got a torx wrench and started adjusting a torx screw in the tailgate. I couldn't see exactly what he was doing but when I got back in the car, there was no more rattle and no more creaking. He said they discovered this common problem with the previous X5 (e70) and it still happens in the F15.

Unfortunately, two weeks later, the rattle/creaking came back, albeit not as bad as before, so I scanned the web and found the following from a guy with an older X5 (e70 or maybe e53) that seemed to be very similar to what the technician was working on on my F15.

So I am copying a post from another site (BH-if that's not ok then feel free to take it down) but the gist is that there's a 1" diameter, circular rubber bumper with a Torx screw in the center, on each side of the tailgate. By adjusting the torx screw and the rubber bumper, this owner was able to eliminate the rattle/creaking.

"I'll try to get pics later. In the meantime, if you open the hatch, you will see a small round bumper on each side of the opening. It's about 1"diameter with a torx screw in the middle. Loosen the screw and turn the rubber bumper clockwise until it bottoms out and you hear a ratcheting sound. then retighten the torx screw. This allows the tailgate latch mechanism, which is "V" shaped to fully seat in the lower hatch and prevent side movement which causes the rattle. I haven't had any more problem since i made the adjustment a few weeks ago."

Am going to try it myself tonight. Worth a shot if you have a torx screwdriver handy and are willing to try to make an adjustment yourself.

Hopefully this can cross one of the problems off your list.

Good luck.

Thank you for the detailed information.
I haven't look at my tale gate closely but I am appreciated if I can see any photo.

[alphaod]

Originally Posted by oojnah

Thank you for the comment.

It's tempting but I didn't do any tuning on my X5.
For s/w update, The Service recommend to commence to get better engine performance. not sure but they just said new s/w have more precise control.

As for vibration, when the DriveTrain issue was happened, the car was in Service for 1week. The Service did every test what they could(road test, engine check up, tire, software ...) but the answer was "Not Sure" they just conclude for bad gas. To be honest, I can not buy this answer. Because I filled 91-octane all the times for any gas station but why only my car complaint about it? In addition, they also asked to go Shell all the time.

I know BMW car is very complicate machine but it takes my effort and time too much.

Sorry you're having all these issues. I remember when the weather was cooler my seats would rattle (especially with my comfort second row seats). Recently it's been getting cooler again I'm hearing the rattles. *sigh*

[iconoclast]

Originally Posted by pokerface

drivetrain malfunction could be a result of low battery charge too.

There recently has been a tsb for battery maintenance and having it swapped out:

SI B61 30 14
General Electrical Systems January 2015
Technical Service
This Service Information bulletin supersedes SI B61 30 14 dated December 2014.

SUBJECT
BMW Maintenance Program: 12-Volt Battery Replacement Measure

MODEL
E70 (X5)
Produced from 4/2010 to 6/2013
With the N63 engine

E71 (X6)
Produced from 4/2010 to 6/2013
With the N63 engine

F01 (7 Series Sedan)
Produced from 3/2010 to 6/2012
With the N63 engine

F02 (7 Series Sedan LWB)
Produced from 3/2010 to 6/2012
With the N63 engine

F07 (5 Series Gran Turismo)
Produced from 9/2010 to 6/2012
With the N63 engine

F10 (5 Series Sedan)
Produced from 3/2010 to 6/2013
With the N63 engine

F12 (6 Series Convertible)
Produced from 3/2011 to 7/2012
With the N63 engine

F13 (6 Series Coupe)
Produced from 3/2011 to 7/2012
With the N63 engine

E71 (X6)
Produced from 7/2013
With the N55 or S63 engine

F01 (7 Series Sedan)
Produced from 7/2013
With the N55 or N63T engine

F02 (7 Series Sedan)
Produced from 7/2013
With the N55, N63T, or N74 engine

F06 (6 Series Gran Coupe)
Produced from 3/2013
With the N55, N63T, or S63 engine

F07 (5 Series Gran Turismo)
Produced from 9/2013
With the N55 or N63T engine

F10 (5 Series Sedan)
Produced from 7/2013
With the N55, N57, N63T, or S63 engine

F12 (6 Series Convertible)
Produced from 3/2013
With the N55, N63T, or S63 engine

F13 (6 Series Coupe)
Produced from 3/2013
With the N55, N63T, or S63 engine

F15 (X5)
Produced from 8/2013
With the N55, N57, or N63T engine

INFORMATION
This bulletin outlines a customer satisfaction measure that has been designed exclusively for the BMW vehicles listed above. It involves the replacement of the 12-volt battery as a preventive maintenance measure.

This 12-volt battery replacement measure is:

Effective with repairs dated on or after January 1, 2015.
Applicable to vehicles that are still covered by the BMW Maintenance Program. This program is valid for 4 years or 50,000 miles, whichever occurs first.

If the battery was replaced previously within the last 12 months, then the battery replacement outlined below (combined with performing the engine oil service) is not necessary.

Please check the warranty claim history for the specific vehicle in the DCSnet Warranty Vehicle Inquiry to confirm if a battery was replaced in the previous 12 months.

Vehicles with an N63 Engine

Vehicles with N63 engines require additional cooling capacity, and the activation of the various cooling system components places additional demands on the battery.

Several enhancements have been made to the power management system on such vehicles. However, in a quest to ensure total customer satisfaction, please replace the 12-volt battery on a preventive maintenance basis at every engine oil service (engine oil service counter # 1, # 2, # 3, etc.), unless the battery was replaced within the last 12 months.

Note: The Key Reader/ISPA Light application will not show a “combined” battery replacement with engine oil service counter # 1 and # 3. Disregard this and replace the battery while performing the engine oil service.

Vehicles with an N55, N57, N63T, S63, or N74 Engine

To ensure total customer satisfaction, please replace the12-volt battery on such vehicles at the second engine oil service (with the engine oil service at counter # 2) only, unless the battery was replaced within the last 12 months.

CORRECTION
Replace and register the new battery; and for the models indicated below, upgrade the battery to the higher capacity.

Select and complete one of the procedures listed below, based on the vehicle’s engine variant.

VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AN N63 ENGINE ONLY
This procedure only pertains to the models and production ranges listed above that are equipped with an N63 engine.

At every engine oil service covered under the 4 year/50,000 miles BMW Maintenance Program:

Perform a Key Read on the vehicle and check to see if an engine oil service is “Recommended” or “Due” by miles or will be required in the next 60 days or less.
Confirm the battery was not replaced previously during the last 12 months.
If the conditions described in steps 1 and 2 are satisfied, replace the battery simultaneously with the performance of the engine oil service.

Important note: Do not perform an energy diagnosis for this battery replacement.

Replace the battery with a 105 Ah battery (this is an upgrade from the originally fitted 90 Ah battery). Refer to ISTA Repair Instruction 61 21 010, “Remove and install or replace battery” and proceed to step 5b. The following exceptions apply:

If the vehicle is an E70 or E71 and was produced prior to 10/2011, replace the battery with the 90Ah battery and proceed to step 5a (these vehicles cannot accept a battery upgrade to 105 Ah).

If the battery installed in the vehicle is already a 105 AH battery, replace it with a 105 Ah battery and proceed to step 5a.

Important note: F06, F07, F10, F12, and F13 vehicles will require an additional hold-down clamp (P/N 61 21 7 592 923), only if upgrading from a 90 Ah battery to a 105 Ah battery.

Register the new battery using ISTA. Refer to SI B61 15 12.

a. Select “Enter battery replacement: same capacity” if the same size battery was installed. The replacement is finished. No further steps are needed.

b. Select “Enter battery replacement: higher/lower capacity” if the higher capacity 105 Ah battery was installed in place of the 90Ah battery. Proceed to the next step.

Start an ISTA/P session using the latest version of ISTA/P.
Select “Conversions/Retrofits” and select “Retrofit, 105 Ah AGM Battery” for the first replacement/upgrade only. Note that ISTA/P will automatically reprogram and code all programmable control modules that do not have the latest software.
After the programming is finished, the battery replacement is finished.

Always connect a BMW approved battery charger/power supply (SI B04 23 10).

VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AN N55, N57, N63T, S63, OR N74 ENGINE
This procedure only pertains to the models listed in the attachment (based on the production date) that are equipped with an N55, N57, N63T, and N74 engine.

At engine oil service “counter # 2” only, covered under the 4 year/50,000 miles BMW Maintenance Program:

Perform a Key Read on the vehicle and check to see if an engine oil service is “Recommended” or “Due” by miles or will be required in the next 60 days or less.
Confirm the battery was not replaced previously during the last 12 months.
If the results of steps 1 and 2 allow, replace the battery together with performing the engine oil service.

Important note: Do not perform an energy diagnosis for this battery replacement.


Refer to ISTA Repair Instruction 61 21 010, “Remove and install or replace battery.”
Register the new battery using ISTA. Refer to SI B61 15 12. Select the “Enter battery replacement: same capacity,” and then the replacement is finished.


PARTS INFORMATION
Part Number Description Quantity
61 21 2 353 812 90/92 AH battery (if equipped) 1
61 21 2 353 814 105 AH (if equipped or for upgrade) 1
61 21 7 592 923 Battery Clamp Rail (only if needed for F06, F07, F10, F12, F13) 1

WARRANTY INFORMATION
Covered under the terms of an “active” BMW Maintenance Program period, up to 4 years or 50,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
Defect Code: 85 10 02 56 MP

Labor Operation: Labor Allowance: Description:
61 21 517 Refer to KSD2 Replacing battery, with registering battery replacement

And, if necessary:

Retrofit Programming: Upgrade Battery from a 90 Ah to 105 Ah

Labor Operation: Labor Allowance: Description:
00 00 556 Refer to KSD2 Performing “vehicle test” (with vehicle diagnosis system – checking faults)

61 00 730 Refer to KSD2 Retrofit programming of vehicle for upgrade of battery from 90 Ah to 105 Ah
And if necessary, also
61 21 528 Refer to KSD2 Connect an approved battery charger/power supply (indicated in KSD2 as “Charging battery”)

Refer to KSD2 for the corresponding flat rate unit (FRU) allowance. Enter the Chassis Number, which consists of the last 7 digits of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). Click on the “Search” button, and then enter the applicable flat rate labor operation in the FR code field.

If a control module or component was working properly and/or had no related faults stored prior to vehicle programming and it fails to program correctly or requires initialization, this additional work must be claimed with separate labor operations under the defect code listed above; refer to KSD2.

Repairs to control modules and components with pre-existing conditions are not eligible to be claimed under the defect code listed in this bulletin
.

[knepsterd]

Hey you could be an M6 or M5 owner and have your drivetrain fracture and have your car rollaway from a dead stop...impeccable QC...2015 models were not welded properly...

[artem123]

Wrapping some black electric tape got rid of the rattle ones and for all. 5 trips to dealer were fruitless

[iconoclast]

i do not have have the issue and have no idea what that piece does but would removing it solve the problem or does it serve some sort of function?