Something Every X5M owner should check every 80-100k miles.

[Cbozz]

Originally Posted by dentprotony@gmail.com

I have a chain-like noise mostly when taking off or idle, i wonder if this might be it. It sounds like chain i am 98% positive 😳

Mine actually got quieter after I did that… I had a similar noise.

[Oliver Queen]

Anyone know a good shop in/near NY that is also aware of this? Would rather have them do it than my butter hands lol

[dentprotony@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Cbozz

Mine actually got quieter after I did that… I had a similar noise.

I will definitely do that on my next oil change, what did you actually do to tighten it ? Thanks

[musa]

Originally Posted by Cbozz

It’s a skid plate plus it works as a stiffening tool for the chassis.

It's part of the front suspension and the vehicle must never be driven without it. It's been there from the first generation X5 (E53 1998-2006). I bought the bolts from FCPEuro and never need to spend money again with their lifetime replacement guarantee. The bolts are stretch bolts and need to be replaced after use. Do not re-use them lest you compromise the integrity of your front suspension when the chasis is under stress.

[Cbozz]

Originally Posted by dentprotony@gmail.com

I will definitely do that on my next oil change, what did you actually do to tighten it ? Thanks

You have to unscrew one of the bolts holding the oil pump in place and go thought the hole of that bolt with your allen bit and tighten the tensioner bolt that's underneath... it's in the video showing very clearly... just tighten until you have very little slack in the chain left... it's super easy to do... just have to remember not to over tighten it..

[dentprotony@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Cbozz

You have to unscrew one of the bolts holding the oil pump in place and go thought the hole of that bolt with your allen bit and tighten the tensioner bolt that's underneath... it's in the video showing very clearly... just tighten until you have very little slack in the chain left... it's super easy to do... just have to remember not to over tighten it..

Ok will do on my next oil change, thanks man 👍👍👍

[dentprotony@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Cbozz

You have to unscrew one of the bolts holding the oil pump in place and go thought the hole of that bolt with your allen bit and tighten the tensioner bolt that's underneath... it's in the video showing very clearly... just tighten until you have very little slack in the chain left... it's super easy to do... just have to remember not to over tighten it..

PS i think the chain noise that i currently hear is directly related to that slack. Strange cause i only got 60k miles 😳

[slow_roll]

Think you can post a short video of that chain noise? This chain tensioning item will def be on my 50K interval maintenance check list.

[Cbozz]

Originally Posted by dentprotony@gmail.com

PS i think the chain noise that i currently hear is directly related to that slack. Strange cause i only got 60k miles 😳

mine definitely was, it only really rattled when cold starting the car... now the rattle is completely gone.... I thought it was the waste gates when I installed my downpipes but dps are HFC so shouldn't make much difference... it was the chain after all

[musa]

I'm curious what the chain noise sounds like. Is it like an obviously, plainly a chain noise, like a rattling noise, tap-tap metal on metal? I'll try to record a cold start in my garage and post it here. That noise should be amplified in that environment if it's there. I've been hearing some noise but I've never been alarmed by it as I think it's always been there since I got the vehicle CPO at 23k miles. In any case, I'm buying the parts for this project since it sounds so easy to fix for a DIY'fer. The vehicle is now at 61k miles. Or maybe I'm just gradually got used to the noise and think it's normal.

[Chilled]

oh btw, for anyone wandering what they are actually doing to tighten the chain. I found this vid for a M62, so the pump housing is different but it shows how the threaded hex works.

[My135i]

Originally Posted by Cbozz

Ok I did it! I was changing my oil today and decided to take the pan off, I had the pan gasket. I also reused the pan bolts with loctite, I also reused the reinforcement bolts- I’ve taken that shield off a bunch of times always reusing the bolts and never had any issues.

Well after taking it all off I discovered a loose chain- not as loose as in OP video but pretty bad. Mind you I’m at 87k miles now. I ended up tightening the chain and cleaned up the oil pan..
One good tip for when you’re putting the pan back on with the gasket:
Instead of using the gasket tack I used zip ties. Keeps it in perfect position and nothing will move it, no mess and simply cut off and slides out!! Here are some pics and videos!

Before:

And after:

I've tightened mine but not as tight as yours! I thought each side should have 5mm slack! I'll probably need to open it again and retighten it!

[Cbozz]

Originally Posted by My135i

I've tightened mine but not as tight as yours! I thought each side should have 5mm slack! I'll probably need to open it again and retighten it!

you're going to need a new gasket.. I would probably just wait if I were you... you already know it's not too loose so may as well wait 30k miles and do it then..

[musa]

I ordered the parts and I'm going to do this in my next oil change in a couple of months or just do an early oil change instead of waiting. My F86 is at 55k miles.

[musa]

Was at the dealer for brake fluid flash. Asked shop foreman about oil pan gasket change and tightening oil pump chain if necessary - quoted $600 for labor alone. Kept my mouth shut and walked away slowly.

[Bobby_Drake]

Originally Posted by musa

Was at the dealer for brake fluid flash. Asked shop foreman about oil pan gasket change and tightening oil pump chain if necessary - quoted $600 for labor alone. Kept my mouth shut and walked away slowly.

It's unfortunate that people take advantage of others just because. But TBH, if you want things done right, gotta DIY (within reason of course). No one cares about your stuff like you do.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by musa

Was at the dealer for brake fluid flash. Asked shop foreman about oil pan gasket change and tightening oil pump chain if necessary - quoted $600 for labor alone. Kept my mouth shut and walked away slowly.

Sounds about right

Parts - 50
1 hour Labor - 150
///M tax - 400

Edit: Just realized you said Labor alone....Wow.... Would be interesting to see if they would quote a different rate on a E70 or F15, see how much of a difference the ///M tax really is

[Chilled]

As much as I love bashing the dealer for their joke pricing. That parts price list seems a little off do to by the book.

Looking closer to $250 retails for the parts, so with that $150 labour. You are still been bent over, but at least they are giving you some hope in giving you a pillow to bite down on.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by Chilled

As much as I love bashing the dealer for their joke pricing. That parts price list seems a little off do to by the book.

Looking closer to $250 retails for the parts, so with that $150 labour. You are still been bent over, but at least they are giving you some hope in giving you a pillow to bite down on.

I was assuming he would be doing the same time it as an oil change and use loctite so 50 dollars is close to what this costs you in addition to a standard oil change. In his post however he said the 600 was labor alone. From what I have seen the dealers try to charge for parts, safe bet would be to double the internet part prices, then add in that 600 labor for final cost from this dealer. Dealer won't use loctie So 850-900ish then minus whatever the dealer charges for an oil change.

If his dealer is an accurate sample of what all dealers would charge for this service, final cost estimate of around 750-800 dollars excluding oil change costs.

Thinking about this more, I wonder if his dealer made a mistake on the cost estimate and included the upper pan gasket too? That would explain the insane labor cost.

[Franktea1$]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

Thanks! Ya I think it was a flaw not to include a dynamic tensioner but wow that video kinda rips on these engines and that is the first gen N63, the S63TU in the in the F85 has variable valve lift and even more parts then previous gen, his mind would have melted...Yes they are complicated but I am at 171K miles original engine , and still knocking out 3.8 0-60 and low 12's in a near 10 year old 5500lb tank.....Can't complain.

Does the 2016 X5M Motor have the same timing chain guides shown in this video? Did mine on my e39 540, not looking to do this again on this beast.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by Franktea1$

Does the 2016 X5M Motor have the same timing chain guides shown in this video? Did mine on my e39 540, not looking to do this again on this beast.

The motor in that video was the original n63, BMW tweaked the design for the n63/s63TU so the guides you have in the 2016 will look slightly different. I don't think timing chain guides are a issue on this platform though. When I had mine apart at 138k they looked great, at 176k now so I think If you are using good oil and doing changes around 5k they should last until 200k.

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

600 was labor alone.

Lol, I missed that its only labour. Well i guess there is no pillow, and they probably wont call you after.

I would love to hear their explanation as to why it takes 4 hours to do that job @150 p/h.