amsoil euro formula

[vympel777]

Hi everyone,

Since I'm in NYC I decided to change the oil right before cold weather kicked in. Did a lot of research and was advised to go with Amsoil 0w40 euro formula kinda pricey tho 10 $ per qt.
Now I feel like my car is under-powered. Its not rolling as it used to roll. Did anyone tried that oil? Engine sounds very smooth no buzzling clicking sound what so ever.

[Silververtu]

At $10/qt, wouldn't it be easier to use BMW 0W-30 genuine oil? It's $9.81/qt at dealership. Possibly able to get 10% off if you are a BMWCCA member.

[MN2///M]

You did not state what year your F15 is, whether it is gas or diesel or what specific AMSOIL product code you used.

Based on the information you provided, I am assuming your's is either a 2014 or 2015 gas motor and you used AMSOIL product code EFOQT-EA.

I consider oil to be a critical component of the engine and as such tend to stick with what the manufacturer recommends/uses and agree with Silververtu; why not just use the BMW oil given the cost?

Assuming that the previous oil was of manufacturer specification and was a 0W (winter) weight, then the viscosity should be pretty much the same and certainly not of a significant difference that you would feel it in performance or rolling resistance.

I know you stated that you did your research and I'm not trying to be an , but only offering an opinion in an effort to help you and others that may read this thread. If your vehicle is a >2016, then this oil does not meet current specifications.

This is the product information I found for AMSOIL 0W40 European Formula, product code EFOQT-EA here:
https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g3395.pdf


The AMSOIL 0W40 carries "API SN/SM" and "BMW Longlife-01" approvals which is not the same approval as "BMW Longlife-01 FE" according to the BMW manual after 2016. The only "suitable engine oil types" approved by BMW will have "BMW Longlife-01 FE" approval for gas motors and "BMW Longlife 12 FE" approval for diesel motors.

This is further supported by the AMSOIL website when you search for a 2016 or later F15 X5:
https://www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-a...rbo/us-volume/




For motors >2016, the AMSOIL oil does meet the listed "alternative engine oil types", but the manual also states that only 1 quart should be added. Many would say it does not make any real difference and you may agree; my opinion differs. For my money, I would stick with an oil that has the specific approval and for similar cost, would just buy the BMW branded product.

[vympel777]

You got it right my F15 is 2015 gas. As we all know BMW uses castrol oil but nowdays they signed up for a new contract with shell. What concerns 01FE Amsoil tend to be a small company and as i heard 01FE costs a lot of money to obtain.

I went to local dealership and they use 5w30 for 3.0 gas vehicles. In a new bottle so i'm guessing that's shell. Ill do more research on a new bmw oil this weekend.

[DuSh]

Does anyone know what oil BMW uses currently for 50i (n63tu). Shell or still Castrol or something else? The reason I ask is that I changed oil recently at dealership and so far oil stays on max level, while previously my 50i ate oil steadily while I used "aftermarket" oil (mostly used Castrol). Just trying to find out what viscosity and brand BMW uses right now for V8 engines

[mikeson]

Oh boy,..
You guys don't have to be that serious.
I have used Mobil 1 0-40 for all my BMW from 1999~ now and never had a single problem.
And also I use Mobil 1 0-40 on my Porsche 997 too and never had a single problem.

Key is how often you change your oil.
just my 2cent.

[yewlock]

I asked two dealership about what oil that they used. They both said that 5w30 for 2015 f15 n55.

[MN2///M]

Originally Posted by mikeson

Oh boy,..
You guys don't have to be that serious.
I have used Mobil 1 0-40 for all my BMW from 1999~ now and never had a single problem.
And also I use Mobil 1 0-40 on my Porsche 997 too and never had a single problem.

Key is how often you change your oil.
just my 2cent.

I agree, Mobil 1 is a great product. Many of us on this forum are slightly anal though when it comes to specifics. As I stated in my previous post, many would feel that it really does not make any difference; you are in that camp; I disagree.

Some would say it's all about marketing and making a buck; maybe.

I think we all agree that BMW makes some of the most technology advanced motors on the market. Given the resources BMW has; if they say there is a difference, I'll trust them and spend the couple of extra dollars to obtain what they have approved or specified.

I also think that given the resources a company like Mobil has, that if they manufactured an oil that meets the BMW specifications, that they would obtain the approval. Unlike AMSOIL, they do not have any oil that meets BMW's specifications for the gas F15; not even for model years 2014 & 2015.







Mobil does have an oil that meets BMW's specifications for the 2014 & 2015 diesel, but not the 2016, so one can't argue that they just did not want to make the effort to obtain or meet approval. Something changed. What I don't know, but without being able to answer that question, I'll spend the few extra dollars for the right stuff.

[vympel777]

I used to have mobil 1 0w40 in my E70 2012. Great oil but engine began leaking after a few years of use. I like to experiment with different things. Castrol burns out quicker than anything else. The optimum solution was 5W30 mobil 1 provided smooth engine sound and no oil burn. Also, I noticed that viscosity grades specified on bottles are complete nonsense. I used to have mercedes and they use mobil 1 0w40 and 5w30 in their dealership in NY. Also, if you have a fairly new car it does not matter which oil to use most of the time you ll feel no difference. However, preowned cars 50k miles + are more sensitive to oil changes.

Once again bmw is all about marketing and sucking big bucks. Don't get me wrong I like bmws but the way they run business is brutal.. back in 90's it was called a speculation. Again this only applies to preowned cars. If leasing a vehicle you are covered bumper to bumper and you won't feel a difference.

My initial post was not to blame AMSOIL but to see if anyone used that product in the past. I ll go back to bmw genuine 5W30 somewhere in march (and see if that would make a difference in performance) but for now Ill keep rolling on 0w40 due to cold weather.

Independent lab test

[Maverik259]

What about the engines changed from 2015-2016 to require a different approved oil? Stuff like that is what makes me question it to say the same engine is good to use a certain oil one year and then change it up the next. And yes you better believe car manufacturers (one of the largest users of oil products) and the oil manufacturers themselves are in bed together. That's a no brainer. Hell the Germans already proved last year they're in bed with each other to defraud the public. All any business cares about is the bottom line, no matter what "for profit" cooperation it is. That's just life.

[vympel777]

Originally Posted by Maverik259

"car manufacturers (one of the largest users of oil products) and the oil manufacturers themselves are in bed together.".

Then why switching to shell? Keep follow the manufacturers bs and keep changing the oil every 10k and don't forget to get extended warranty cuz you will need it. Can't comment on a new shell oil yet.

So hard to schedule an appt at our BMW "life quality" dealership its always booked and has no loaners available. NJ seems to have pretty decent service centers however, bmws are not that popular in that area. 70k miles+ on cold start you will hear lifters clicking. I have seen bmw engines 150+ miles running like 50k. Good oil is fetal for the engine and regular changes lets say 5-7k max depending on your driving style but no way I'm letting my car run for 10k miles without a single oil change.

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by vympel777

Then why switching to shell? Keep follow the manufacturers bs and keep changing the oil every 10k and don't forget to get extended warranty cuz you will need it. Can't comment on a new shell oil yet.

So hard to schedule an appt at our BMW "life quality" dealership its always booked and has no loaners available. NJ seems to have pretty decent service centers however, bmws are not that popular in that area. 70k miles+ on cold start you will hear lifters clicking. I have seen bmw engines 150+ miles running like 50k. Good oil is fetal for the engine and regular changes lets say 5-7k max depending on your driving style but no way I'm letting my car run for 10k miles without a single oil change.

Totally agree on that part for sure. 10k is insane but that is what even the oil makers are saying. But still 5-7k for me until someone proves otherwise. And yes runnin the 50i means I auto bought the warranty till 85k mikes (at 25k now)

[fosterelli]

I use Liqui Moly's Leichtlauf 5W40 on our MB and BMW, which is BMW LL-01 and MB 229.5 approved. I've also used German Castrol, Mobil 1 Euro, etc. depending on our vehicles, what's on my shelf, and what is approved for the OEM.

BMW FE is for fuel efficiency properties of the oil...all about CAFE these days. Spec an oil with slightly less resistance, increase FE a very small percentage per vehicle, but more significantly over the entire fleet sold, helps to meet EPA's CAFE mandates.

Another thing to consider is the FE may have specs for helping with LSPI (low speed pre-ignition)...a major problem with small gasoline engines w/ direct injection and turbochargers. OEMs are pushing ILSAC GF-5 Plus as an emergency release, prior to launch of the delayed GF-6, to lower engine failures and problems associated with LSPI...and oil manufacturers are scrambling to accommodate. Warranty costs are very high with some manufacturers of small turbo gas DI engines...high pressures, carbon/deposit build-ups, etc. equating to major costs for OEMs right now.

Now, for the OP...all API ACEA ILSAC 0W-40 oils will be extremely similar in viscosity adherence across the multi-grade oil. I've never used Amsoil but can only assume their 0W-40 is no different in regard to viscosity.

0W is for the winter rating (cold start up, regardless of ambient temperature). Once engine warms up, the viscosity is the 40, and the 0W is ignored.

For example, all 0W-40, 5W-40, 10W-40, and 15W-40 oils are the same viscosity at normal operating temperature of the engine, which is typically 195°F to 220°F...regardless of if you're in Alaska with below zero weather, or Arizona with 100+ degree weather...your engine temp should be in that range when warmed up...and your oil will be the same viscosity.

Now, for the winter rating, 0W will help you with cold starts, faster flow, etc. More protection at start-up.

So if you're noticing a lack of power after changing engine oils, I'd conduct an oil change to something else with the same viscosity and see what you notice. It's a relatively inexpensive experiment...hit your store and grab another good 0W-40 oil, don't even change the filter...just drain and refill.

Another consideration, be sure you don't overfill. Was any other service done (plugs, etc.)? Additives added? Anything different other than oil and oil filter? Just trying to help troubleshoot for you. Typically it would be very difficult for an oil change, even with a viscosity change, to reduce engine power output.

[fosterelli]

Originally Posted by Maverik259

Totally agree on that part for sure. 10k is insane but that is what even the oil makers are saying. But still 5-7k for me until someone proves otherwise. And yes runnin the 50i means I auto bought the warranty till 85k mikes (at 25k now)

You can prove yourself otherwise.

Y'all should run UOA if you don't believe high quality synthetics run 10K without problems. Get a kit from Blackstone. Run samples at 3K, 5K, 7500, 10K...compare your results...cheap to do and it's very informative. You'll see good oils can go very far. Plenty of big rigs running 40K+ between oil changes for this very reason and they have all sorts of problems we typically don't face (fuel dilution, very long idles, lot's of stop/go, heavy hauls, etc.).

I've run samples on plenty of vehicles, I finally just stopped altogether once I became a believer across several brands.

My Super Duty, Range Rover Supercharged, Yukon XL Denali, etc. all went crazy long. Extending OCI with UOA is fun for nerds like me I guess. They measure EVERYTHING...so you know you're protected. Shit I had my Tundra shop truck at 15K with Castrol Edge and Blackstone said I could push further, but I couldn't trust a filter any further...even though it definitely wasn't in bypass yet.

Buy good oils & filters, approved by OEM, and worry not!

[turboawd]

Originally Posted by fosterelli

You can prove yourself otherwise.

Y'all should run UOA if you don't believe high quality synthetics run 10K without problems. Get a kit from Blackstone. Run samples at 3K, 5K, 7500, 10K...compare your results...cheap to do and it's very informative. You'll see good oils can go very far. Plenty of big rigs running 40K+ between oil changes for this very reason and they have all sorts of problems we typically don't face (fuel dilution, very long idles, lot's of stop/go, heavy hauls, etc.).

I've run samples on plenty of vehicles, I finally just stopped altogether once I became a believer across several brands.

My Super Duty, Range Rover Supercharged, Yukon XL Denali, etc. all went crazy long. Extending OCI with UOA is fun for nerds like me I guess. They measure EVERYTHING...so you know you're protected. Shit I had my Tundra shop truck at 15K with Castrol Edge and Blackstone said I could push further, but I couldn't trust a filter any further...even though it definitely wasn't in bypass yet.

Buy good oils & filters, approved by OEM, and worry not!

does your oil analysis measure how much soot is in the oil? soot is a byproduct of combustion, and is really small and the filter dont catch it. soot is a big reason your oil turns black. soot is also an abrasive and is a big cause for engine wear. and since bmws are known for valve stem seal failures, one reason could be accelerated seal wear from sooty(abrasive) oil. oil analysis dont measure soot or rubber wear. so i'll change my oil sooner to not have too much soot in my oil.

[alphaod]

Why would you pay $10/qt for Amsoil when you get the factory stuff for $7-8/L...? And you don't end up with half bottles after a change.

[turboawd]

Originally Posted by alphaod

Why would you pay $10/qt for Amsoil when you get the factory stuff for $7-8/L...? And you don't end up with half bottles after a change.

amsoil buys their oil from a Mobile refinery and just add their "special" additives. sounds like snake oil to me, yet people buy into their marketing.

[vympel777]

Originally Posted by fosterelli

Another consideration, be sure you don't overfill. Was any other service done (plugs, etc.)? Additives added? Anything different other than oil and oil filter? Just trying to help troubleshoot for you. Typically it would be very difficult for an oil change, even with a viscosity change, to reduce engine power output.

Nothing was change on my vehicle. The filter came from a local dealer and new drain plug. However, the engine running very smooth, I can tell by the sound and by the slight steering vibration that I was getting before - now vibration is gone. I ordered new cabin/engine air filters will swap on monday and do a tranny reset.

[P1]

Go to dealership

Tell them to change the oil

Have a coffee and a chocolate chip cookie

Pay

Go home

[fosterelli]

Originally Posted by turboawd

does your oil analysis measure how much soot is in the oil? soot is a byproduct of combustion, and is really small and the filter dont catch it. soot is a big reason your oil turns black. soot is also an abrasive and is a big cause for engine wear. and since bmws are known for valve stem seal failures, one reason could be accelerated seal wear from sooty(abrasive) oil. oil analysis dont measure soot or rubber wear. so i'll change my oil sooner to not have too much soot in my oil.

Incorrect, oil analysis can measure soot if you elect. Soot testing is nothing new, and certainly should be performed at the higher ends of your UOA drain interval verifications.

Our analysis for clients includes TGA (thermal gravimetric analysis), which is an ASTM standard method for soot detection and measurement. It's highly accurate and is the same method used by million-mile fleets and very expensive, mission-critical equipment (such as oil rig deepwater drill ships, which can have $1MM per day downtime costs).

But hey, change it whenever you want! To each their own, just like the choice of your oil brand, it's a personal decision for everyone.

Scientifically though, if you do everything properly and verify with UOA at the proper intervals, your engine cannot be harmed and you have the data to prove it. Soot, wear metals, contaminants, viscosity, TBN, TAN, additives, silicon, insolubles, flashpoint, performance of your filter, etc. can all be monitored, compared against a virgin sample of your oil, and tracked with trending and alerts before you have any detrimental or long term effects on your engine.

[Mitch567]

Originally Posted by Maverik259

What about the engines changed from 2015-2016 to require a different approved oil? Stuff like that is what makes me question it to say the same engine is good to use a certain oil one year and then change it up the next. And yes you better believe car manufacturers (one of the largest users of oil products) and the oil manufacturers themselves are in bed together. That's a no brainer. Hell the Germans already proved last year they're in bed with each other to defraud the public. All any business cares about is the bottom line, no matter what "for profit" cooperation it is. That's just life.

I wondered the same thing myself. I did some digging and found that often times the engines are identical, but the recommended oil switches midcycle to satisfy increasingly stringent fuel economy standards etc. Often sacrificing engine protection over MPG's/emissions.

Chances are, OP had a very thin "girly man oil" before he filled with Amsoil.
Changing to a stouter oil will produce the side effects he noted in the first post.
Whether you agree with their marketing/sales tactics, Amsoil UOA's speak for themselves. They make excellent products.

[Silververtu]

Originally Posted by turboawd

amsoil buys their oil from a Mobile refinery and just add their "special" additives. sounds like snake oil to me, yet people buy into their marketing.

Most lubricant companies around the world buy base oils from different base oil supplier, Mobil, Yubase, Chevron, etc. and add their additive packages into it. What set them apart is the quality of the additive packages they use into their products, and of course their branding and marketing. Therefore, it's not just AMSOIL, but all lubricant companies.

There are lubricant companies that have really high quality engine oil products, better than well known, proven brands, but selling at a much cheaper price because they don't have the brands nor the marketing budget to promote themselves. Also there are well known brands/products and genuine oil that are asking for a premium but barely meet the specification or even fail in tests.

If the OP really wants the best available product that fits our N63TU engine, use the BMW genuine oil with BMW-LL-01FE for now and wait for API SN Plus (not formalized yet but products are available in the market) with BMW-LL-01 FE approval when such products are out in the market. SN Plus is a specification that addresses many issues occurs in TGDI engines, such as low speed pre-ignition (LSPI), extreme high working temperature, oil burning, etc. which many OEMs across the world acknowledge the issue and push for updating the specification.