F15 X5 35d fuel filter change DIY Guide

[wallycycle]

Purchased a 2015 35d a few months ago with 30K miles. This DIY and associated comments/suggestions were very helpful in getting the job done. The OP primed the filter with the exit open and of course it worked. I have read postings of owners priming with the filter hoses all attached and that's what I did.

I purchased a Foxwell NT 530 (with BMW software) to actuate the electric fuel pump for priming. When I first connected the Foxwell and went into the Service menu to familiarize myself with the unit, there were two options under electronic fuel pump: 20 sec and 200 sec run. I then did the work under the car, reconnected everything except for the large cover panel and reconnected the scanner. This time the menu was a bit different: Service-Powertrain-Digital Diesel Electronics-Fuel System Bleeding. I selected this function and it gave a message: Following systems will be activated: Electronic Fuel Pump, Fuel Quantity Control Valve and Rail Pressure Regulating Valve. System will run for 200 sec. Ensure at least 1/4 tank fuel capacity. I Executed the command and could immediately hear a gurgling sound coming from the fuel filter area. It was obviously being filled and the sound I heard was probably the air purging. That sound lasted about 20-30 seconds. During this process the scanner said Pls wait, reading data. After 200 seconds or so I expected a message telling me the process was complete. I waited a full 6-7 minutes and it was stuck on that page. I disconnected and started the car. Was not immediate as usual. Took about 5 seconds. Drove the car for about 15 minutes. All worked well. Subsequently did a diagnosis scan and under the Digital Diesel Electronics there was a code: Rail Pressure Too Low on Engine Start. I cleared it.

[Clifton]

Bumping this thread to the top because I just performed this service and wanted to thank the OP for his write up. Gave me the intel I needed to feel good about doing the job without drama. Thumbs up OP!!

Lessons Learned:

• Change the filter more frequently than you think; 15k-20K intervals (see image of yellow catch pan with "beach sand")
• Removal of the under paneling is the most time consuming part of job
• The fuel line doesn't slide off easily. To help break free, hold the hose and twist the cartridge like your revving a motorcycle throttle on/off.
• For future ref. use the inspection window to write date/mileage after service (see image)
• While you are there inspect the front U-joint for excessive rust; bad things happen if that on seizes (see image)

System Bleeding:

• The internet says it's not required, but I opted to do it yielding a fast crank and no fault codes
• The Foxwell NT530 scan tool with latest software will bleed the system
• You do not need to bleed with the system open (fuel line/filter separated)
• Make sure you have more than a 1/4 tank to use scan tool to bleed or no bleed for you! Apparently you need 20Ls.

[Exclusivs]

Originally Posted by happydude

Just completed this for the 2nd time. First time I did not prime and engine cranked a few times before starting and I had a drivetrain malfunction prompt on dash. This time I was going to prime but my ISTA+ did not seem to have the function for activating the fuel pump. I instead did as WVUBMWX5 and just used a Harbor Freight transfer pump and manually pumped diesel through the filter. Car started up as normal and no codes.

1st time (non primed) car started 1.5 sec crank ran for 10 seconds died. Tried cranking 4-5 secs and stopped.

Code
“Rail pressure too low during engine starting”

Got transfer pump- removed filter today (there was fuel in it and the lines. Filled filter all the way and reinstalled - no fire up. Same code keeps appearing. And I keep clearing.


What’s a “long crank?”

Probably being too gentle - stopping after 3-5 seconds. FWIW even tried hooked to NOCO- as I do think bettery may be discharged too

Thanks in advance

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by Exclusivs

1st time (non primed) car started 1.5 sec crank ran for 10 seconds died. Tried cranking 4-5 secs and stopped.

Code
“Rail pressure too low during engine starting”

Got transfer pump- removed filter today (there was fuel in it and the lines. Filled filter all the way and reinstalled - no fire up. Same code keeps appearing. And I keep clearing.


What’s a “long crank?”

Probably being too gentle - stopping after 3-5 seconds. FWIW even tried hooked to NOCO- as I do think bettery may be discharged too

Thanks in advance

Just keep trying. Long crank is 10+ seconds when I did our fuel filter.

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by Clifton

System Bleeding:

• The internet says it's not required, but I opted to do it yielding a fast crank and no fault codes
  
• The Foxwell NT530 scan tool with latest software will bleed the system
• You do not need to bleed with the system open (fuel line/filter separated)
• Make sure you have more than a 1/4 tank to use scan tool to bleed or no bleed for you! Apparently you need 20Ls.

Good tips.

When I used my NT530 it froze up during the bleed procedure and ran the pump for a long time, don't remember how long, but long enough that I was concerned. X5 wouldn't fire up after disconnecting the Foxwell. So I cycled the ignition once and then it fired up after a long crank. No problems since then. I'll check and see if my Foxwell is on the latest revision of the software...

[Exclusivs]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

Just keep trying. Long crank is 10+ seconds when I did our fuel filter.

The non crank sound hurts! Feels like eternity- def haven’t done 10 seconds

Are others finding similar?

How long was your “long crank?” After install

Thanks in advance

[Clifton]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

When I used my NT530 it froze up during the bleed procedure and ran the pump for a long time, don't remember how long, but long enough that I was concerned.

Funny you mention that....I think I read your post prior to doing the work and was bummed to read that NT530 might not be up to the challenge.

Before heading out to the garage, I did a quick software check and there was an update. I can't swear by it, but I recall reading a release note that Foxwell updated the diesel fuel pump primer option.

When I executed the prime command, I was prepared to let it run for several minutes. The pump whirred to life for about 20-30 seconds and I heard gurgling and bubbling equal to that of turning on main water line in a house. While happy the NT530 didn't freeze, I assumed it didn't run to full completion and just moved on.

I then crossed my fingers and it started right up without any hiccups.

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by Clifton

Funny you mention that....I think I read your post prior to doing the work and was bummed to read that NT530 might not be up to the challenge.

Before heading out to the garage, I did a quick software check and there was an update. I can't swear by it, but I recall reading a release note that Foxwell updated the diesel fuel pump primer option.

When I executed the prime command, I was prepared to let it run for several minutes. The pump whirred to life for about 20-30 seconds and I heard gurgling and bubbling equal to that of turning on main water line in a house. While happy the NT530 didn't freeze, I assumed it didn't run to full completion and just moved on.

I then crossed my fingers and it started right up without any hiccups.

Good to know! I'll hook up my Foxwell to the PC and see if there is an update. If so... I'll be sure to report back. It ran my pump for MUCH longer than that. At least a minute-maybe longer. It was a real "pucker up" moment.

[Clifton]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

Good to know! I'll hook up my Foxwell to the PC and see if there is an update. If so... I'll be sure to report back. It ran my pump for MUCH longer than that. At least a minute-maybe longer. It was a real "pucker up" moment.

I know of this "pucker up" moment. lol When fuel pump fired up, I thought OH SH!T, what have I done now.... Hope the software update works for you/others the next time you swap filters.

I'm still shocked by how much sand and deposits came out of the filter. Going forward, I plan on reducing my interval to 15K or less.

One other observation I noted in the week after the filter change - on several occasions where I fired up and idled before driving away, the rpms stumbled ever so slightly. It was just enough to catch my attention, but then once I focused, it didn't repeat. I recall this happening 2-3 times shortly after a cold start. I worried the pump was damaged, but months later and silky smooth, I wonder if there were small traces of air working their way out.

[LateParty2018X535d]

Thanks all for this excellent post and hands on additions!

Question: does the heating element attached to the filter also need to be changed at same time as the filter? What is recommended service interval for the filter heater? If not what indications are there that the heater needs replacing prior to or upon failure?

The $32 mahle filter is a great price but can only find the bmw filter plus heater part which is $275ish BIG difference in service cost. Much appreciated!

[Clifton]

Originally Posted by LateParty2018X535d

Thanks all for this excellent post and hands on additions!

Question: does the heating element attached to the filter also need to be changed at same time as the filter? What is recommended service interval for the filter heater? If not what indications are there that the heater needs replacing prior to or upon failure?

The $32 mahle filter is a great price but can only find the bmw filter plus heater part which is $275ish BIG difference in service cost. Much appreciated!

I've not heard of changing the heating element on a frequent service interval. BMW branded filters can be purchased without the heating element as well.

I'd recommend short intervals for the fuel filter i.e. Annually or <20Kmiles. Factory interval is 40K which is too long IMHO. See my images above with the amount of sediment entering the filter.