Time for new battery? X5 2014

[M302_imola]

Originally Posted by jtfields

I just dropped my 2014 X6 off at the dealer today to get the battery replaced and registered. I was planning to do it myself (I own BimmerCode but not BimmerLink.) After thinking about it, I figured the last battery lasted 7 years so I just decided not to worry about saving a couple of hundred bucks for something that only has to be done every 7 years or so. This way I know I'll get the right battery and it'll be properly registered.

Agree as long as you plan on keeping the car for awhile.

[cfm56d7b]

Joining this thread. Our family car is 2015 F15 X5, 7 years old and only 32K miles. The main battery is finally asking for a retirement package.

I bought OEM equivalent DieHard 8H battery. Plan to install and register shortly using Foxwell NT510.

After installation ...

- Any common error codes which can be avoided?
- How to charge the battery? Idle the car for N minutes?

All suggestions appreciated!

[bmwx5er]

Originally Posted by cfm56d7b

Joining this thread. Our family car is 2015 F15 X5, 7 years old and only 32K miles. The main battery is finally asking for a retirement package.

I bought OEM equivalent DieHard 8H battery. Plan to install and register shortly using Foxwell NT510.

After installation ...

- Any common error codes which can be avoided?
- How to charge the battery? Idle the car for N minutes?

All suggestions appreciated!

After installing and registering, clear all error codes (ones presumably set due to the outgoing dying battery). A new battery should be more than 50% charged (probably more), so you can start driving right away.

[cfm56d7b]

Originally Posted by bmwx5er

After installing and registering, clear all error codes (ones presumably set due to the outgoing dying battery). A new battery should be more than 50% charged (probably more), so you can start driving right away.

Thanks! I will clear all codes - there are at least 3 that Foxwell NT510 identified.

[cfm56d7b]

The battery was replaced. Now I need to register it.

Old battery: 105 Ah / 950 A.

New battery: 95Ah / 900A.

I am using Foxwell NT510 to register the new battery but it's asking for a supplier code.

Any suggestions?

[bmwx5er]

Originally Posted by cfm56d7b

The battery was replaced. Now I need to register it.

Old battery: 105 Ah / 950 A.

New battery: 95Ah / 900A.

I am using Foxwell NT510 to register the new battery but it's asking for a supplier code.

Any suggestions?

I registered using ISTA, and it only required a code if you choose the option as a BMW-branded battery. Of course, the replacement battery was 105ah as well (Same as the original). If yours is a bmw battery, then you'll have to look at the code stamped on top of the battery. Or you can simply register it as an aftermarket one, I don't think it makes a difference.

Edit: here's a thread about the same topic. https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/d...ttery.1415395/

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by cfm56d7b

The battery was replaced. Now I need to register it.

Old battery: 105 Ah / 950 A.

New battery: 95Ah / 900A.

I am using Foxwell NT510 to register the new battery but it's asking for a supplier code.

Any suggestions?

You may have fallen into one of the fundamental traps on battery registration and coding. Registration and Coding are TWO different things.

When you swap in a new battery...you have to register it.

If you swap in a new battery that has different specs than the old battery...then you need to CODE the new specs of the battery...then REGISTER the new battery.

You need to CODE your charging system to change from a 105AH battery to a 95 AH battery.

Once you've done that...then you can register the new battery.

You can see two screen shots below...the 1st is the Bimmercode app where you CODE a new battery that has different specs than the one that was replaced. The 2nd pic is the Bimmerlink app where you register a new battery when it has been replaced (and coded if specs are different).

If your scanner has the capability to CODE your new battery...and you don't see 95AH listed...then select the AH rating that is closest to the battery that was installed (in the scenario of the pics below...you would select 90AH instead of 105AH).

[M302_imola]

Originally Posted by cfm56d7b

Thanks! I will clear all codes - there are at least 3 that Foxwell NT510 identified.

I'm assuming you didn't unlock the doors and pop the trunk and then wait to let the car go into sleep mode before disconnecting the old battery? I've heard not doing so will cause the 3 fault codes.

[13Ghost]

I have a 2018 X5 with 44k on it. All of a sudden I’m getting the following warnings:
“Battery discharged.Start engine” and
“Charge by driving for longer periods or use external charger. Functions requiring battery will be switched off.”

After ignoring it for a day or two I also got a warning regarding the parking brake.

I suspect that it’s the battery when I connected the battery charger to the jump start points under the hood, the charger shows 14.7 V with the car off and it wouldn’t charge the battery as it says it’s 100% full.

I then discovered that I have the 2 battery setup in the trunk.
I looked at the battery voltage at the terminals with the car off and got between 12.1 and 12.3 with the Auxiliary battery and
Near 14.7 on the Main.

Up to this point, the car started strong and only had a couple of weird things with the comfort access working/not working.

I put the Auxiliary on a battery charger and then went for 2 half hour drives. When I went to start it, the car nearly did not start…

I suspect the Auxiliary battery is going bad, but now am unsure…

I also now have Bimmerlink, but there is no option to register the Auxiliary in case i buy a replacement Auxiliary.

Any thoughts?

[13Ghost]

Just to add:
The sensor values from Bimmerlink screencapture are with the vehicle running.

I’ve read all the posts regarding batteries and the battery discharged warning and still have the following questions…

Which of the 2 batteries is responsible for the warnings… and starting (posts seems split as to what battery does what)
And there should be no way that the large battery has 14.7V at the posts/terminals while off and at rest…

Could the small Aux battery that is depleting be charging the big battery at rest??? Maybe both are shot but don’t want to replace both if one isn’t broke…

[stocktree]

The main battery is reading too high when off. Why? Not sure. Either it's getting overcharged, or maybe a fault with the battery to cause it to read so high.
Is there a date stamped on the battery posts? If they are original, I'd start out by replacing both batteries.

[tlow98]

Yeah you need to load test those batteries. See which one is wonky. Could be both.

These cars do weird things when the batteries start to go. The main battery was pretty reasonable, even at the dealer when I did mine. $250 and I installed it.

Not sure what the aux will run you.

[13Ghost]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Yeah you need to load test those batteries. See which one is wonky. Could be both.

These cars do weird things when the batteries start to go. The main battery was pretty reasonable, even at the dealer when I did mine. $250 and I installed it.

Not sure what the aux will run you.

Will see if I can get them load tested…
Dealer wanted $330 (part) + 220 to register the main Battery when I called
… didn’t mention anything about the Auxiliary battery… which is difficult to source here but did find a couple 3rd party sources for $300-330 CDN 😬. Getting both replaced at the Stealer is going to run me over 1k.
That’s why I’m trying to be selective…

[stocktree]

Originally Posted by 13Ghost

Will see if I can get them load tested…
Dealer wanted $330 (part) + 220 to register the main Battery when I called
… didn’t mention anything about the Auxiliary battery… which is difficult to source here but did find a couple 3rd party sources for $300-330 CDN 😬. Getting both replaced at the Stealer is going to run me over 1k.
That’s why I’m trying to be selective…

There's aftermarket batteries available for both sizes.
See this thread.
https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1699570

[13Ghost]

Originally Posted by stocktree

There's aftermarket batteries available for both sizes.
See this thread.
https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1699570

Yes, It was very helpful to start with.
As far as sourcing
Here in Vancouver, Canada, sources are more limited. Rock Auto won’t ship here.
I spent hours calling various sources for that hard to find LN1 battery. Just not sure if that’s the problem battery.
I have confirmed both are original to the vehicle. With the Neg posts removed, they both read 12.5V after having charged the batteries… will try and drive it around for a bit then re check…

[Qsilver7]

If you're in a country other than the US market...AC Delco makes/sells the LN1 AGM battery...which probably means that you may be able to source one from a GM dealership. If you can't get one from Rock Auto...try your local GM dealership's parts department and inquire if they sell the LN1 AGM 50AH battery.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by 13Ghost

Will see if I can get them load tested…
Dealer wanted $330 (part) + 220 to register the main Battery when I called
… didn’t mention anything about the Auxiliary battery… which is difficult to source here but did find a couple 3rd party sources for $300-330 CDN 😬. Getting both replaced at the Stealer is going to run me over 1k.
That’s why I’m trying to be selective…

Yep, totally get it. Well, there are many a code readers that will register batteries and if you own this car you need it anyway. Foxwell, Carly, and the list goes on. $150 at most and you’ll have it forever and will cut this repair cost by %30+ sounds like.

If you have the time to save the $300 then go down the diagnosis path. If not, buy code reader, both batteries, and ride on for the foreseeable future. I’m surprised it failed this early. My OE battery went 90k miles and 9 years.

Have you tried an independent. that would also save you the %30 or more I suspect

[13Ghost]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Yep, totally get it. Well, there are many a code readers that will register batteries and if you own this car you need it anyway. Foxwell, Carly, and the list goes on. $150 at most and you’ll have it forever and will cut this repair cost by %30+ sounds like.

If you have the time to save the $300 then go down the diagnosis path. If not, buy code reader, both batteries, and ride on for the foreseeable future. I’m surprised it failed this early. My OE battery went 90k miles and 9 years.

Have you tried an independent. that would also save you the %30 or more I suspect

I went and rechecked the battery voltage after having them disconnected overnight. Main 11.6v and Aux 12.6
I had it booked for service tomorrow as I have the extended warranty just to make sure all was well with the charging system et al but batteries are not covered. I spoke to them just now… and this Stealership says the batteries through the parts dep are:
$412 main
$650 Aux
What a joke… I’m going out to buy the 3rd party batteries now..

[13Ghost]

Wound up going to the Dealership to get a new main battery as the price was the same there as anywhere else (although the Auxiliary battery would have been 2-3X the price). Service guy was really nice and load tested the batteries for me and confirmed it was the main battery that needed replacement.

Replaced the battery myself and registered it. 2 days of driving later, no warning and no issues.

[13Ghost]

These are all the warning I got… and it was the main battery… not auxiliary

Hope it helps to diagnose a battery problem for someone…

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by 13Ghost

Wound up going to the Dealership to get a new main battery as the price was the same there as anywhere else (although the Auxiliary battery would have been 2-3X the price). Service guy was really nice and load tested the batteries for me and confirmed it was the main battery that needed replacement.

Replaced the battery myself and registered it. 2 days of driving later, no warning and no issues.

Yep, glad to see you got it sorted. I found basically the same scenario. I was really surprised the aftermarket wasn’t much cheaper than the dealer for the actual battery. In most cases it was more expensive to go aftermarket.