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      11-22-2014, 10:54 AM   #45
BillK
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I just changed the oil in mine today and it definitely needed it! The oil looked and felt like black water. I can't imagine this stuff lasting until 10 k miles, let alone the old interval of 15k miles. I'm glad I read this thread because 7 quarts is the correct amount
42pilot, you mentioned using rotella oil in the future, but is it rated LL04? I'm going to stick with BMW oil until the warranty expires and continue 5k intermediate oil changes but when the warranty expires, I was thinking about either Pentosin 5w40 or Motul x-clean5w40 as they are both LL04 rated. I'll go with 5w40 because I don't like how this oil felt too much like water. Whenever I change my oil, even with dark oil, it still feels like oil between my fingers, but this stuff was like water. I don't like it.
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      11-22-2014, 02:14 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillK View Post
I just changed the oil in mine today and it definitely needed it! The oil looked and felt like black water. I can't imagine this stuff lasting until 10 k miles, let alone the old interval of 15k miles. I'm glad I read this thread because 7 quarts is the correct amount
42pilot, you mentioned using rotella oil in the future, but is it rated LL04? I'm going to stick with BMW oil until the warranty expires and continue 5k intermediate oil changes but when the warranty expires, I was thinking about either Pentosin 5w40 or Motul x-clean5w40 as they are both LL04 rated. I'll go with 5w40 because I don't like how this oil felt too much like water. Whenever I change my oil, even with dark oil, it still feels like oil between my fingers, but this stuff was like water. I don't like it.
Thats why i use LL01 instead LL04 , same feelings - water VS oil
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      11-22-2014, 07:08 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillK View Post
I just changed the oil in mine today and it definitely needed it! The oil looked and felt like black water. I can't imagine this stuff lasting until 10 k miles, let alone the old interval of 15k miles. I'm glad I read this thread because 7 quarts is the correct amount
42pilot, you mentioned using rotella oil in the future, but is it rated LL04? I'm going to stick with BMW oil until the warranty expires and continue 5k intermediate oil changes but when the warranty expires, I was thinking about either Pentosin 5w40 or Motul x-clean5w40 as they are both LL04 rated. I'll go with 5w40 because I don't like how this oil felt too much like water. Whenever I change my oil, even with dark oil, it still feels like oil between my fingers, but this stuff was like water. I don't like it.
LL04 simply means its a good extended-change oil. You stated you wouldn't wait the 10k miles, like me, between changes so why worry about using an oil approved for extended oil changes. In addition, Rotella T6, if filtered correctly, can last as long if not longer than any of the other quality diesel oils and this brand has hundreds of millions of miles of proof behind it's performance. But performance (lubricity, shear strength, viscosity, cleaning, etc) is not the issue here - filtering is.

Diesel fuel burned in an engine creates soot. Soot, larger than 4 microns becomes an abrasive. If you burn 200 gallons of fuel, you will roughly introduce an ounce of soot into your oil. You need to filter that out as this is the primary reason for engine wear in diesels.

No doubt lubricity, shear strength, detergents and so on are very important to the engine and the complicated exhaust system we need to run. But the whole reason I change my oil every 5000 miles is because of the soot issue.

In addition, I use the lightest weight oil I can. I cannot measure an oil's lubricity and shear strength using my fingers. These two issues tell you when the oil is worn out. Most high performance engines and race teams (including Formula 1, NASCAR, top fuel engines, etc) use 0 weight oil because it works and works really well without robbing horsepower from the engine-driven oil pump. It cools better than heavier weight oil, shear strength is equal to heavy weight oils, it removes crap from the cylinder walls left by combustion and it has very high heat capabilities. To top it off, a lighter weight oil will fill all the oil galleys in the engine on start-up much faster than a heavy weight oil. This will increase the life and performance of any engine.

The old school of thought, and I mean old school, felt as if heavy weight oil lubricated better, and it stood up to heat better. Older guys also thought heavy weight oil kept your oil pressure higher, which it did, but at the cost of horsepower, inefficient cooling, slow cranking in cold weather, etc. When I built Porsche motors, I used to shim the pressure relief valves to increase oil pressure so the owner wouldn't freak seeing an idle pressure of 10 or 15 psi. As long as there was a film of oil between the rotating or reciprocating parts (no metal to metal contact), you're golden. Higher RPM and higher pressure nearly ensures no metal to metal contact since fluids are not compressible. Anyway, today's engine tolerances are built for lighter weight oils too.

With all this being said, use the oil you are comfortable with. You own the car and are responsible for it.
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      11-22-2014, 09:42 PM   #48
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As I understand, LL01 and LL04 are both long life oils to meet BMWs extended oil change intervals The real difference is LL01 is for spark ignition engines in the U.S. and the LL04 is a low SAP (sulphur, ash, phosphorus) oil used in order to prevent damage (clogging) of the diesel particulate filter these newer diesels come with.
That's my understanding. Chime in, anyone, if correction is required
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      02-05-2015, 12:19 PM   #49
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Trying

I guess not so many here have experience with oil change on the 25D. It just looks not so straightforward as the bigger engines.
I have already bought everything, the best and recommended Castrol LL04 Titanium oil as well as filters, and was planning to actually suck up the oil via the oil stick hole.
We have some equipment for that at my job.

BUT...the filter on the 25D is located very awkwardly. I guess it's like that because the small/short engine block.
Here, you can see a glimpse of the oil filter cap, but its buried under covers (not only the top plastic airfilter/decoration cover) as well as some electrical cables.


I just don't want to dismount half the car myself to change the oil - when it's absolutely not necessary after all.
Further, I guess I could also change the oil...and skip the filter, but again, that feels not right either.
Ohh..these new cars

Thanks for looking
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      06-06-2016, 12:03 PM   #50
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Just changed the oil on our 2016 X5d at 1522 miles. I echo all of the comments here: (1) easy to do on this engine, (2) wow it was black and dirty.

I did catch a sample for Blackstone and will be mailing it to them tomorrow. Will post results. The other BMW engines in our fleet have rod bearing issues and Blackstone is my usual practice anyway.

Pics of the oil change here: http://x5nut.blogspot.com/
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      06-06-2016, 04:26 PM   #51
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25d Oil Change vs. 35d

BXDriver,
Your 25d picture looks not much different from my 35d. The plastic cover is held onto the top of the engine by four connectors. It can be lifted straight up and then gives you access to the filter and the oil fill cap. The plastic air duct snaps into place and can be moved out of the way if needed. I changed my X-5 35d's oil for the first time over the weekend at 5,900 miles. The filter removal and replacement took maybe 10 minutes. I used 42Pilot's instructions from this Forum.
I went to Harbor Freight tools, of all places and bought a Central Pneumatic Oil Extractor Model 46149. With the coupons I cut out of my latest NRA magazine, I saved 20% off the posted sales price, and got a free multi-tester to give to my son-in-law. We save up any item we get for free and exchange them at Christmas just for fun, and to see the looks on the faces when they open the Chia-head or doggie bone. I think I have $130 tax and all in the oil extractor. As noted on the many internet posts about this vacuum pot, the quick connect is made to place a naked rubber hose onto a barbed fitting, so I used an old 1/2" quick-connect to attach it to my air compressor. It comes with a set of metal wands and tubing wands, one of which worked perfectly to vacuum the oil. Since I am only doing this as an in-between before the Maintenance Agreement's oil changes, I didn't feel the least bit guilty about changing the oil and not having to get the X-5 on a lift or a set of ramps. First time I ever did an oil & filter change without getting dirty or making a slight oil mess. Take your time getting the cover off the engine, and you will find plenty of room to change the filter and the oil. I didn't replace the cover until the job was completed. Just be careful and do not overfill with fresh oil. I measured the amount that the Extractor pulled out from my hot engine, and replaced with same amount. The extractor has a sight-glass, but the measurement markings were useless until I measured the amount and marked the quarts using a metal marker. Turned out to be an easy, clean task, and now I am going to drive another 4,000 miles and get BMW to change the oil & filter per the on-board computer. The oil filter was the dirtiest I have ever seen, so I feel better halving the change interval and using Mobil-1 0w-40 European car synthetic oil.
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      06-06-2016, 08:05 PM   #52
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As an update, I sent in a sample to blackstone labs and here it is. I'm not so sure if waiting 10k miles per oil change is a good idea


Last edited by BillK; 06-08-2016 at 09:41 AM.. Reason: fix link
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      06-06-2016, 08:50 PM   #53
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We can't see your image.
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      06-07-2016, 10:40 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillK View Post
As an update, I sent in a sample to blackstone labs and here it is. I'm not so sure if waiting 10k miles per oil change is a good idea
As stated earlier we can't see your image.

But with all the emissions controls, and the small paper (not even fleece) filter, there is no way I would have let my motor go more than 5,000 miles between changes. But this was also because I owned it - no lease. Diesel soot is carbon and enough carbon will score bearings, cylinder walls and other fairly important parts in your engine. Real extended oil changes in commercial engines use centrifugal filters that remove most of the contaminants so they can actually go longer - up to 25,000 miles. Since your engine has a fairly crappy filtering system, why not change the oil (low volume) more frequently? Cheap insurance.
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      06-07-2016, 10:53 AM   #55
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Great write up, thanks for sharing. I've got one more "free" oil change/service to go and then I'll be into my own maintenance.
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      06-07-2016, 11:02 AM   #56
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As a result of the oil change, the other maintenance item I intend to accelerate/improve is diesel fuel filter changes. These are both cheap costs to bear over the life of a purchased car.
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      06-08-2016, 09:41 AM   #57
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ok, link fixed, sorry
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      06-21-2016, 07:51 PM   #58
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Here is my first Blackstone Oil Analysis report. Nothing unusual but not a lot of confidence until I can see a few more for this particular engine.
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      06-21-2016, 08:58 PM   #59
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Since y'all posting yours, here's my last one. I'm due for service again at 19k right now, will probably wait until I'm closer to 20k.



Did a couple road trips, so weird intervals, but my goal is 5k-ish per change.
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      08-03-2016, 12:23 AM   #60
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Hi all,
New to this forum, but been looking at it to do research before buying my X5d. I just changed my oil for the first time at ~5K miles (LL04). I normally change my oil every 10K miles using Mobil 1 (all gas engines) - never had an oil related failure. This is my first diesel, so I'm being cautious.

Reviewing the Used Oil Analysis on LL04 both here and at "Bob is the oil guy", it seams like the oil is black at 5K but the insolubles are well below the 0.6% limit, the metallic contaminants are very low and the TBNs are between 4 & 5. It seam that this oil is well capable of going 10K miles. Does anyone have a UOA on LL04 after 10K miles?

I did send in a sample for a UOA. Looking towards the future, I will get a oil change at ~10K (BMW) but thinking of doing a UOA at 15K and if it looks good, let it go the full distance.

Comments?
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      08-03-2016, 02:56 AM   #61
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72Phil.

I'm cautious with my 35d, too. I'm sticking with a change interval of 5k. I wouldn't exceed 7.5k let alone go to 10k, it's just cheap insurance.
If I think the oil temp is high I will confirm it using the "hidden dashboard" which shows realtime values. Even with higher than normal coolant temps the oil temp hasn't exceeded 120C. The BMW synthetic oil as well as SHELL ROTELLA T6 easily can handle these temperatures. Wouldn't surprise me one bit if the factory fill as well as the bottle you buy in the dealer parts department are T6.
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      08-03-2016, 10:21 AM   #62
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Now that I'm done with the "free" oil changes, I too will be tightening up the oil change intervals, most likely to 8K. For the low cost of an oil change, you're right...its cheap insurance. Its also a good time to give the vehicle a once over while you're under there.
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      08-03-2016, 12:21 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F15GorDe View Post
72Phil.

If I think the oil temp is high I will confirm it using the "hidden dashboard" which shows realtime values.
What is this "hidden dashboard?" I would love to keep an eye on oil temps in my 50i.

- Patrick
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      08-03-2016, 01:12 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newtlicious View Post
What is this "hidden dashboard?" I would love to keep an eye on oil temps in my 50i.

- Patrick
Try this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2v78Nj9QOoM
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      08-03-2016, 02:07 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stewy604 View Post
Thanks, Stewy. Cool trick! I just got into that menu but I don't see any options for viewing oil temps.

- Patrick
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      08-03-2016, 03:38 PM   #66
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Stewy604 pointed to one of the menus available.

In this video at about the 5:30 mark he gets into the temperature selection:



There are other functions for exploring.

Have fun.
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