Transmission Oil Change

[Franktea1$]

Anyone done this? any link for a DIY?
Thanks,
Frank

[DgjoX6M2016]

Originally Posted by Franktea1$

Anyone done this? any link for a DIY?
Thanks,
Frank

Not 'recommended' by BMW. Which is BS. Mercedes (at least our GL) builds that into maintenance schedule! 60k.

I'm getting mine flushed after warranty runs out.

I wonder if Lambo, Dodge, Alfa, Bentley and the other ZF8HP vehicles have fluid flush/change in maintenance schedule. Might be worth looking into for some guidance.

[Franktea1$]

I figured not recommended, bad policy.

[///MCollection]

BMW say sealed for life but ZF say 40k oil and filter changes. As far as I am aware there is no flush machine approved for ZF auto's apart from the ones at factory. In my opinion and from advise I've got you are better to just change the 5-6 litres in the sump and do that every 40k. Also flush machines can add additives and cleaners to the flush this is not a good idea.

Also at around 100k if it's not been done probably best left as the additives in fresh oil can sometimes cause issues

[///MCollection]

FYI

[KLR X5M]

ZF in other applications are "sealed for life", however that has always seemed suspect to me.

[sly1types]

just look on youtube for ZF8 fluid change it can be done at a shop, but it needs to be ran in gear at a certain temp.

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-serv...p-transmission

https://aftermarket.zf.com/remotemed...p-50130-en.pdf

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by Franktea1$

I figured not recommended, bad policy.

BMW Lifetime oil = Marekting BS

ZF themselves recommends themselves will tell you lifetime is a lie if you email them and 60 to 80K at the latest in performance vehicles like the F85

Another member above posted the actual PDF from ZF, follow it to the T. The previous owner of my X5 didn't and under-filled the transmission, not a problem with it until I was coming down from the mountains the got a Drivetrain error and the transmission shifted into neutral. Not a good time trying to find a place to pull over on a twisty downhill 3 mile stretch of mountain road and not overheat the brakes on a 5300lb vehicle that is stuck in neutral. The transmission lost oil pressure from the combination from the steep decline and being under-filled with oil.

Most people don't know that you must complete the fill procedure after you have revved the engine to 2000rpm for 30 seconds in P & N and then let idle for 30 seconds in R, D, 1 & 2 AND then leave in Park with engine running while you top it off while your under it with a 400 degree pipe next to you and its leaking oil in your face...Fun stuff but hey it saves BMW 5 dollars on a 120,000 dollar vehicle not to put in a dipstick and thus the "lifetime" lie....

Below is the cliff notes version on doing it:

The procedure to refill is:

1 - Car must be completely level (double check your drain plug on new pan and make sure it is tight, 8nm if memory serves, its printed on the oil pan)

2 - Add oil until it spills out the fill hole (usually around 3 - 4 liters), start engine and rev to 2K for 30 seconds in park, shift to reverse and idle for 30 seconds, then D for 30 seconds, then 1st for 30 seconds, then 2nd for 30 seconds, put back in park and leave engine running and quickly run back under and stuff another liter or so in until it starts to trickle out the fill hole. Transmission temp needs to between 86 to 122f so you must be fast if its already warm out.

3 - Total fill will be 4 to 4.5 liters give or take a little depending on the temp with the standard plastic oil pan. If you put in any less then 4 you are in danger of the transmission losing pressure on steep declines which will give you a drivetrain error and force you into neutral.

PROTIP: Pickup a cheap welding blanket from harbor freight to wrap your exhaust in next to the fill port to keep your flesh on your arms...

PROTIP 2 - Loosening the valve body (dont remove, just loosen) allows nearly 2 more quarts to drain from the transmission for around 6.5 total, allowing for a more complete oil change (total oil capacity is approx 9 liters, 3 which cannot be reached as it is in Torque converter and transmission cooler/lines). If anyone cares to do this let me know and I will scan in the page from the rebuild manual on the valve body tighting torque and sequence.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Oh and BUY THIS: https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Produc.../dp/B0119DHX7O

It is a lifesaver when you are topping it off while underneath and the engine is running, trying to get that last liter in before the transmission temp is out of range.

[///MCollection]

Again a bit more information

[Silververtu]

When OEM means lifetime oil, it actually means no changes needed within the warranty period.

There is no true "lifetime" oil for transmission/gear/diff, etc.

[KLR X5M]

Is there a filter to change? Has anyone looked at the higher capacity pans from other zf applications or an upgraded external cooler?

[///MCollection]

There is on the f85 as unlike the normal zf8hp the sump is metal so it's old school and has a filter and gasket. BMW has a repair kit and ZF will too, ZF kits usually come with oil which bmw don't. Both kits usually have a new pan (in f85 case filter and gasket), new fixing bolts, new fill plug and a drain plug.

Double check but I think the bmw service kit is part no 24 00 7855263

[Franktea1$]

My car has 77k on it. I need to do this soon.
Thanks all
Frank

[musa]

I had the dealer do this (simple drain and refill) after factory warranty expired at 50k miles. Trans had no issues but after the service, she doesn't shift as smooth as before. I feel a slight jerk in the lower gears. Taking it back to make sure they didn't over or under fill. Next time I'll just DIY.

[///MCollection]

I wouldn't have thought a jerk would be felt due to over or under filling the box but they may have cleared the adaptions and it may smooth out, may be worth a call to,ask

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by musa

I had the dealer do this (simple drain and refill) after factory warranty expired at 50k miles. Trans had no issues but after the service, she doesn't shift as smooth as before. I feel a slight jerk in the lower gears. Taking it back to make sure they didn't over or under fill. Next time I'll just DIY.

As some other members pointed out, most likely the adaptations were reset. If you have a scanner you can check to see what the fill counter is for them to confirm.

FYI: The official procedure from ZF for adaptions relearn is: Long stretch of flat level road, 20-30% throttle to 55mph, then take foot off throttle and allow car to downshift through gears as it coasts to a near stop. Come to full stop and Repeat this at least 3 times (more the better) in each of the driving modes.

If you don't have the time or road space to do this, it will learn on its own as you drive it, it might take a week or two depending on how often you drive and its conditions.

[musa]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

As some other members pointed out, most likely the adaptations were reset. If you have a scanner you can check to see what the fill counter is for them to confirm.

FYI: The official procedure from ZF for adaptions relearn is: Long stretch of flat level road, 20-30% throttle to 55mph, then take foot off throttle and allow car to downshift through gears as it coasts to a near stop. Come to full stop and Repeat this at least 3 times (more the better) in each of the driving modes.

If you don't have the time or road space to do this, it will learn on its own as you drive it, it might take a week or two depending on how often you drive and its conditions.

The service was done in January this year. Granted I don't drive much during the Covid lockdown but I've done several 200 miles road trips and driving around to the store and such. Pardon my ignorance, but how come new cars shift smooth?

[turboawd]

Originally Posted by musa

The service was done in January this year. Granted I don't drive much during the Covid lockdown but I've done several 200 miles road trips and driving around to the store and such. Pardon my ignorance, but how come new cars shift smooth?

Have you changed the transfer case fluid? I'd do that. It can cause jerking at lower speeds and turns.

But as for your trans, fluid level shouldn't effect shifting, unless you're really low. Being high wouldn't change feel.

[musa]

Originally Posted by turboawd

Have you changed the transfer case fluid? I'd do that. It can cause jerking at lower speeds and turns.

But as for your trans, fluid level shouldn't effect shifting, unless you're really low. Being high wouldn't change feel.

I requested them to change all fluids - trans, front and rear differential, brake fluid and coolant. I wanted all fluid refresh at 50k miles. Transfer case fluid? That wasn't done .

[turboawd]

Originally Posted by musa

I requested them to change all fluids - trans, front and rear differential, brake fluid and coolant. I wanted all fluid refresh at 50k miles. Transfer case fluid? That wasn't done .

The transfer case fluid is the one that gets beat the most and should be changed more often.

[musa]

Originally Posted by turboawd

The transfer case fluid is the one that gets beat the most and should be changed more often.

I'll change it myself - it seems pretty straight forward. I've done it before on my old first gen X5 4.4 E53.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...box/1VnYaUIz2g