Suspension components 90k miles

[Johanian]

So I’m hearing weird noises inside the cabin when going through uneven surfaces and bumps sometimes. Nothing too loud. I have to turn of the radio to really hear it. I’m pretty sure is some suspension components whored out since my X5 is 90k miles. Now my question is, what component should be failing at this millage? I guess all depends on how you drive your car etc. But anything I should start with? Thanks

[Vivek.]

This would be a good place to start: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-31126864821kt

[tlow98]

Agree with what vivek posted. Although, more than likely you don’t need the top ball joints. I don’t think those wear out too much.

I’d also say you’re due for shocks all around. Most cars shocks give up the meaningful part of their abilities around 75k miles.

If you do those lower control arms and shocks you’ll have a very fresh feeling car again. You’ll be astounded the difference it makes in handling. You think you’re just hearing a few creaks but the amount of precision and comdfort you’re missing is huge.

[kendallc24]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Agree with what vivek posted. Although, more than likely you don’t need the top ball joints. I don’t think those wear out too much.

I’d also say you’re due for shocks all around. Most cars shocks give up the meaningful part of their abilities around 75k miles.

If you do those lower control arms and shocks you’ll have a very fresh feeling car again. You’ll be astounded the difference it makes in handling. You think you’re just hearing a few creaks but the amount of precision and comdfort you’re missing is huge.

Which shocks do you recommend? I'm having similar issues.

[Clifton]

If you are just chasing a noise, another option to try before going with suspension component refresh, is to start with swaybar bushings and end links. Both are cheap and DYI.

Not saying the others are wrong, especially considering the miles. Just depends what you are trying to achieve and how much do you want to invest. At that mileage most stock suspension and components are due some love.

[Vivek.]

Originally Posted by kendallc24

Which shocks do you recommend? I'm having similar issues.

For an all-around combination of price, performance and comfort I'd recommend Koni special active: http://findershop.koni.com/nl/en/cat...cl.-x5m-m-50-d

I've not personally used these but heard good things about them. I have used the Bilsteins available for the F15 on other platforms and I wouldn't recommend (ride too stiff). If only Koni made the yellow adjustables for our cars...

[Clifton]

Originally Posted by Vivek.

I have used the Bilsteins available for the F15 on other platforms

For my future planning, which Bilsteins did you us on the F15, B4s or B6s?

I've used the B6s on an E36-M3 and they were definitely firm, but much more compliant than coilovers.

[M302_imola]

Originally Posted by Clifton

If you are just chasing a noise, another option to try before going with suspension component refresh, is to start swaybar bushings and end links. Both are Cheap and DYI.

Not saying the others are wrong, especially considering the miles. Just depends what you are trying to achieve and how much do you want to invest. At that mileage most stock suspension and components are due some love.

I concur. I had a creaking sound coming from my front passenger side about 10K miles ago. Tried guessing at which control arm it was instead of the complete refresh. Did the upper wishbone on both sides, then replaced two of the 3 front control arms (passenger side). Wouldn't you know this didn't fix the issue. It was the other control arm (tensioner strut arm) I believe is what it's called. Fast forward to today I'm starting to hear some new suspension noises. It's become alittle more pronounced lately. At slow speeds on rigid services, like entering the parking garage at work, it sounds like metal on metal. I'm going to replace the sway bar end links on both front and rear and hope this takes care of it.

[Vivek.]

Originally Posted by Clifton

For my future planning, which Bilsteins did you us on the F15, B4s or B6s?

I've used the B6s on an E36-M3 and they were definitely firm, but much more compliant than coilovers.

I believe they are either B6 or B8--they're yellow and B4's should be black. This is on an e30 with H&R springs (not sport or race--the 'touring' or whatever comfort one they offer). Compared side by side to my other e30 on ground control coilovers with Koni SA yellows...it's hard to explain. There is MUCH more suspension travel with the H&R springs, but until you hit the bumpstops the Koni/Eibach combo (these are very stiff linear coilover springs, not progressive springs like a standard lowering spring) is somehow more comfy than the Bilstein/H&R. For example you feel the painted lines more in the Bilstein car. You feel a pothole more in the car on coilovers.

[JamesInSJ]

Originally Posted by Vivek.

This would be a good place to start: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-31126864821kt

+1 to this.

I have a 2015 X5d just over 100k miles, and have the same sound you do. I'm replacing all of this, plus the struts, when I find myself a weekend to do it. Also, you can save about $200 if you "downgrade" the LEM-3896001 and matching part for the other side with the Meyle HD versions. I've heard from people who had both in their hands that the Meyle's were more robust and appeared/felt closer to OE than the Lemforder for whatever reason, even though Lemforder should be the OEM.

[Vivek.]

Originally Posted by JamesInSJ

+1 to this.

I have a 2015 X5d just over 100k miles, and have the same sound you do. I'm replacing all of this, plus the struts, when I find myself a weekend to do it. Also, you can save about $200 if you "downgrade" the LEM-3896001 and matching part for the other side with the Meyle HD versions. I've heard from people who had both in their hands that the Meyle's were more robust and appeared/felt closer to OE than the Lemforder for whatever reason, even though Lemforder should be the OEM.

I've noticed that the Lemforder are aluminum while Meyle HD appear to be steel. The ones on my car are steel, and I'd generally prefer to stay with steel on a SUV like this since it's not really a performance car and steel is tougher...

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by Vivek.

I've noticed that the Lemforder are aluminum while Meyle HD appear to be steel. The ones on my car are steel, and I'd generally prefer to stay with steel on a SUV like this since it's not really a performance car and steel is tougher...

The metal is not what wears on these things, never seen one bent that didn't hit a curb or something. It's the bushings and ball joints. I'd stick with aluminum for the weight savings unless the cost was 2x or something crazy. Even our E70 had aluminum.

Every BMW, but especially the SUVs (the added weight), are due for a front suspension rebuild every 80-110k miles. Depending on the roads being driven on. Our F15 @ 103k is starting to show signs of thrust arm bushing wear and I'd bet other bushings/bearings are on the way out as well. I'll bite the bullet (like I always do) and do everything at one time for ~$1000 and not have to worry about it again for another 100k. The FCP kits are great for the lifetime warranty if you keep your cars for a long time. I've used it many times on suspension components.

[M302_imola]

Originally Posted by JamesInSJ

Also, you can save about $200 if you "downgrade" the LEM-3896001 and matching part for the other side with the Meyle HD versions. I've heard from people who had both in their hands that the Meyle's were more robust and appeared/felt closer to OE than the Lemforder for whatever reason, even though Lemforder should be the OEM.

I used the Mehle HD upper wishbones. No complaints.



OP, not sure if you're happy with your ride height, but you could go with a set of BC Racing coilovers for prob close to what you pay for the Bilstein's. Seems like a paid right at $1K for the coilovers.

[Smonkbmw]

Why not take it to a independent or dealer and have them do a under car once over instead of asking random people on the internet what to throw money at?

You have almost 100k on a performance vehicle. Preventative maintenance would be to replace all bushings along with the struts due to mileage. Probably should do it sooner than later as the next thing after noises is usually tire wear.

This is as bad as having a “powertrain malfunction” and asking what it could be.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by kendallc24

Which shocks do you recommend? I'm having similar issues.

I used the bilstein b4’s. They’re just ok. Some uncontrolled damping going on. They don’t seem to know whether they are a sport of comfort shock and in the end they feel like they’re neither.

I would go straight to the Koni Reds (actives) that Vivek mentions above. I’ve never been steered wrong with a Koni.

Bilstein HDs yellows used to be good. Back in the e30 days. These days they ride like dump trucks, to me.

If and when Koni makes a yellow for the X5 I’ll be first in line…

I’ve had all the ones mentioned above. Custom bilstein HDs are great if you have the coin ($3k+), but Koni yellows are 90% as good for a fraction of the cost. Koni Reds are very good for most applications.

That’s my order of operations when I make a purchase. I’ll bet stock replacements are also good, but they’re double the cost for same-ish performance. Not my cup of tea.

[ciscorob]

Originally Posted by Vivek.

This would be a good place to start: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-31126864821kt

This right here, you'll be happy you did it.

[Variante Alta]

I have a 2015 F15 35d with 100,000 miles. A few months back I started to hear a light clunk from the front driver’s side suspension over small bumps. The car was in yesterday for the 2nd EGR Cooler recall so I had the dealership look into that as well. It’s the control arm (Tension Strut P/N 31126851691/2). Ordered left and right ones from FCP and will install when the weather warms a little. The quote BMW provided includes the P/Ns for replacement nuts, collars and screws (see below, CDN $). FCP has a great video DIY for this repair - nice of them!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTe9ZtM-Weo

[tlow98]

$600 for those cheap ass arms that sometimes fail within 30k miles. BMW should be ashamed of themselves.

The value a new MacBook for this 20 yr old design made of 50 yr old materials. Laughable.

[Vivek.]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

The metal is not what wears on these things, never seen one bent that didn't hit a curb or something. It's the bushings and ball joints. I'd stick with aluminum for the weight savings unless the cost was 2x or something crazy. Even our E70 had aluminum.

Every BMW, but especially the SUVs (the added weight), are due for a front suspension rebuild every 80-110k miles. Depending on the roads being driven on. Our F15 @ 103k is starting to show signs of thrust arm bushing wear and I'd bet other bushings/bearings are on the way out as well. I'll bite the bullet (like I always do) and do everything at one time for ~$1000 and not have to worry about it again for another 100k. The FCP kits are great for the lifetime warranty if you keep your cars for a long time. I've used it many times on suspension components.

I do suppose that the lifetime warranty would alleviate a lot of my concern but FCP doesn't have the arms that are specific to Active Steering, unless you buy the Genuine BMW brand for 3x the cost. I'll message them to see if they can get Lemforeder, my CABs are starting to make noise.

BTW I understand that the metal itself doesn't wear lol, I was more referring to hitting potholes, crawling over curbs, extra strap point if I'm stuck in snow/mud/etc. This is a truck to me, it's my ski/inclement weather car and I've had tow drivers do stupid shit like refuse to tow my e39 from the TOW HOOK and insisted on strapping to an aluminum control arm that has a big yellow sticker saying DO NOT TOW OR LASH...we couldn't reach an agreement and AAA had to send another driver. That's the kinda shit I just don't want to deal with on a vehicle that I see no specific benefit of aluminum arms.

Variante Alta $600 is an insane price for those parts, holy shit. I would also do it myself if I got a quote like that; I'd bet an indy shop would do it for less than 50%.

[F15_SGM]

Originally Posted by Vivek.

I do suppose that the lifetime warranty would alleviate a lot of my concern but FCP doesn't have the arms that are specific to Active Steering, unless you buy the Genuine BMW brand for 3x the cost. I'll message them to see if they can get Lemforeder, my CABs are starting to make noise.

BTW I understand that the metal itself doesn't wear lol, I was more referring to hitting potholes, crawling over curbs, extra strap point if I'm stuck in snow/mud/etc. This is a truck to me, it's my ski/inclement weather car and I've had tow drivers do stupid shit like refuse to tow my e39 from the TOW HOOK and insisted on strapping to an aluminum control arm that has a big yellow sticker saying DO NOT TOW OR LASH...we couldn't reach an agreement and AAA had to send another driver. That's the kinda shit I just don't want to deal with on a vehicle that I see no specific benefit of aluminum arms.

Variante Alta $600 is an insane price for those parts, holy shit. I would also do it myself if I got a quote like that; I'd bet an indy shop would do it for less than 50%.

No wonder suspension is all out. If you think this is a truck. Too me this thing is fragile and more a of a tuned performance suv that drive like a small car and beats mustangs

I drove over a curb slow with back tire accidently. Next day later air suspension was out on that side.

[ciscorob]

Originally Posted by osmansiddiqui95

No wonder suspension is all out. If you think this is a truck. Too me this thing is fragile and more a of a tuned performance suv that drive like a small car and beats mustangs

I drove over a curb slow with back tire accidently. Next day later air suspension was out on that side.

Right here, this is NOT a truck by my definition, I have a ram 2500 turbo diesel for real "truck" activities.

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by Vivek.

I do suppose that the lifetime warranty would alleviate a lot of my concern but FCP doesn't have the arms that are specific to Active Steering, unless you buy the Genuine BMW brand for 3x the cost. I'll message them to see if they can get Lemforeder, my CABs are starting to make noise.

BTW I understand that the metal itself doesn't wear lol, I was more referring to hitting potholes, crawling over curbs, extra strap point if I'm stuck in snow/mud/etc. This is a truck to me, it's my ski/inclement weather car and I've had tow drivers do stupid shit like refuse to tow my e39 from the TOW HOOK and insisted on strapping to an aluminum control arm that has a big yellow sticker saying DO NOT TOW OR LASH...we couldn't reach an agreement and AAA had to send another driver. That's the kinda shit I just don't want to deal with on a vehicle that I see no specific benefit of aluminum arms..

Gotcha. Makes sense. LOL... I use my e61 wagon for truck duties. Just got back from Lowes with 6 2x4x10 and 4 2x6x10. It's always hilarious the looks I get when I go out and load. Nobody can believe it will hold it.

My X5's, while not really "sports cars" are more of a family hauler vehicle that only really sees smooth pavement so the aluminum parts it came with are what I throw back on. But I don't seem to have the same problem with tow driver's you've had either.

Now that you mention the problem with active steering arms being different, I'll have to see what ours requires by VIN. It's pretty well equipped but don't think it actively steers. Has adaptive suspension...