N55 Oil Filter Housing Gasket Change

[pwrdbym]

Here’s a quick write up on the oil filter housing gasket change to show some specifics on the F15. A leaking oil filter housing gasket is a common issue on BMW inline 6’s and the N55 is no exception. It is however much more difficult to change starting with the N54. This write-up is not intended to be a DIY as there are numerous detailed N54/N55 write-ups & vids on the webs, however if you have questions I’m happy to answer. My 2016 X5 35x just rolled over 100k miles and there was a burning oil smell upon shut down. Examinations of the engine bay revealed no leaks from the valve cover gasket (you’ll need to remove the plastic engine cover and the undertray to get a look at this area). The oil filter housing gasket leak is notoriously hard to visualize top or bottom depending on the severity of the leak. The main issue with the leak is oil leaking onto the belt causing it to walk and possibly throw off. If this happens there is a risk of belt shards being sucked into the engine via the crank pulley. If you observe oil on your belts this repair is more time critical. My leak wasn’t severe (no oil on belts) however I took the opportunity to address it over the slower holiday break.

I’ve detailed the purchase of this X5 here: https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1632254

And previous maintenance here:
https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1639922

The only mandatory parts for this repair are the 2 filter housing gaskets, however most kits include new bolts and some include a new switch.
I purchased these parts from FCP:
Oil Filter Housing Gasket Kit (11428637821KT3) $30.13
Accessory Drive Belt Kit (11288604266KT) $110.46
Throttle Body Gasket (13547582931) $2.46
Intake Manifold Gasket Set (11617547242) $17.10
Intake Manifold Gasket (11617588624) $15.15
Total: $175.30
Note for N55’s with the older oil cooler style lines you will need two o-rings (17227613656). I’m not sure if any F15’s came with this style cooler but my 2016 has the newer coolant style with reusable clamps.

I chose to replace the belt, idler and tensioner pulleys at the same time given you gain access during the repair. I also chose to remove the intake manifold and throttle body entirely to ensure all parts were cleaned and gaskets replaced. You can simply unbolt the manifold and move it out of the way slightly to gain access to the rear bolt on the filter housing, it doesn’t have to be removed entirely.

I also did an oil and filter change at the same time with Liquimoly 5w40 (please don’t make this an oil discussion thread; I’m using this due to higher miles and climate).
You’ll also need some BMW coolant on hand to top up the system as some will run out of the filter housing lines. Be sure to do a proper bleed procedure on the cooling system (detailed on the webs).

Various parts need to be removed for access; airbox and ducting, engine cover, cowl covers, etc.


The intake manifold had lots of dirt and debris around it so use care when removing to keep debris out of the engine.


Lots of oil residue in the intake manifold, a good opportunity to clean.


There are multiple ways to remove the intake manifold. Some disconnect the DME harnesses and leave the DME attached to the manifold. I was not crazy about disconnecting 6 plastic harnesses without breaking something so I unscrewed the DME and left it in the car. Disconnect your battery, if not use caution it doesn’t short on the starter. As mentioned above the complete removal is optional.


Took the opportunity to let the oil drain overnight for my change. Not normal to get that thorough of a drain.


This is the point of leakage at the filter housing. You can see where a failed gasket will cause oil to run down the front of the engine. This pic also shows why it is difficult to detect visually with everything installed.


This is the culprit gasket. Mine was very flattened out and obviously leaking.


This gasket divides the chambers of the filter housing and is also a source of leakage. You’re crazy if you don’t also change this while it’s out.


Both chambers in the parts cleaner. (Remove the switch if you’re going to do this)


Engine bay cleaned and all gasket mating surfaces scuffed with scotch pad.


This is the drive belt tensioner; hard to see in the pic but a lot of oil had run inside the spring housing.


New gasket installed on filter housing.


Old belt looked really good at 100k miles, but changed it anyway.

[menelaos]

Top notch post, once again.
Had similar issues and noticed it quite late, at which point major degreasing was required.

[ComasF15]

Thank you for the write up. I concur with the idler and tensioner replacement, that's my practice, too.

[jmiseo2008]

Curious if you “primed” the engine prior to startup? I’ve read horror stories online of the engine seizing if you don’t. Spoke with a tech at the dealership during a BMWCCA meetup and they don’t prime, either.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by jmiseo2008

Curious if you “primed” the engine prior to startup? I’ve read horror stories online of the engine seizing if you don’t. Spoke with a tech at the dealership during a BMWCCA meetup and they don’t prime, either.

There was a tech bulletin on it wasn't there? Something along the lines of pulling the fuel pump fuse then crank for 10 seconds, wait 30, then crank for 10 seconds if memory serves.

[jmiseo2008]

Yes! I think SIB # 11 09 15

[jmiseo2008]

Also, did you lubricate the new gasket with oil/coolant?

[pwrdbym]

Originally Posted by jmiseo2008

Curious if you “primed” the engine prior to startup? I’ve read horror stories online of the engine seizing if you don’t. Spoke with a tech at the dealership during a BMWCCA meetup and they don’t prime, either.

I didn’t prime as mentioned in the SIB; I filled the oil filter housing with oil and completed the electronic bleed procedure twice before engine start.

I lubricate any gasket prior to install.

[jmiseo2008]

Thanks again for the feedback!

[kriya]

very good resource and a detailed video of replacement.

[Chicane_S54]

Great job, great write up.

[chadingram11]

I noticed a leak and took my 2015 X5 to the dealer. They said I had a leak coming from the oil filter housing. I thought I could repair it myself. So I bought the OEM gasket for both the oil and coolant side of the housing. I found a really helpful video on how to change it.

So I changed them and noticed a couple of days later that it is still leaking!

I will admit that I forgot to lube the gaskets... is this causing the leak? worse leak than before my attempted repair?

Also, I heard in the video that if there are any dimpling marks on the face of the housing that the housing part will need to be replaced. Is this true? I notices some very small and minor dimples.

I'd really love some help! Do I crack it open and repair it?

[beyondm3]

I recently changed the oil in the X5 but this issue is rearing it face.... is it possible to do this without draining the oil? I imagine it could be slightly messier but shouldn't be that big of a problem right?

[cfm56d7b]

Great thread started by OP.

What is the likely mileage when Oil Filter Housing Gasket may fail? My X5 has 30K miles after 6 years of driving.

[MH20jy]

Originally Posted by beyondm3

I recently changed the oil in the X5 but this issue is rearing it face.... is it possible to do this without draining the oil? I imagine it could be slightly messier but shouldn't be that big of a problem right?

You do not need oil change before this. The gasket is on top of the engine.

[pwrdbym]

Originally Posted by cfm56d7b

Great thread started by OP.

What is the likely mileage when Oil Filter Housing Gasket may fail? My X5 has 30K miles after 6 years of driving.

Probably nothing to worry about at 30k. Mine was at about 100k.

[ming786]

Great write up. Got dreaded oil spots on the driveway and have been told its coming from housing and cooler. Unclear if just gaskets or the parts themselves as yet.

How long a job do you think this is (leaving aside belt replacement etc)? Couple of hours?

[Florida-X3]

Ours went out at 83k miles, had the gasket fixed and battery replaced by dealer (a bit too much of a DIY for me) for $1720. Have a decent indy shop near me, he's a MB specialist but his prices rival the dealership and he offers no coupons. I always seem to get a coupon in the mail just around the time I need something.