'15 35d Family Daily Driver Mod/Maintenance Thread

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by Ascotgrun

Completely changed the look of the car. The cost of buying and painting fender flares etc made me reject a few cars when I was looking. I ultimately wound up finding a sport model, but I actually prefer the front bumper of the non-sports especially when they have a splitter added.

I'm the same. I'm sure we're in the minority, but on the F15 specifically, I prefer the X line body kit to the msport. Haven't looked into splitters, but will now that you mention it.

[Ascotgrun]

There is a Canadian x/lux line owner that got front splitter and rear diffuser and that car looks great. Best aesthetic feature of the sport is the lack of those sidesteps. The sport front bumper with those two large gaping faux grills needs help. The 50d grill trims look much better but $250+ for 2 thin pieces of silver plastic is crazy.

[hockey21]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

04/06/2021

- Nothing big to report, been busy with our E70. Repaired the driver's side floor mat that had lost the loop portion of the hook and loop system to hold it in place. It was sliding under the gas pedal if not careful and was a real hazard if you weren't careful. I glued some black speaker box carpet to the bottom (almost looks factory) and installed the "grabbers" that were missing. Had those on hand from previous OE carpet purchases. $0

Amazing . I need to do this . Any more info on this ?

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by hockey21

Amazing . I need to do this . Any more info on this ?

Sure. The fabric I used is speaker box covering style carpet. Most use a grey but I have black here from when I used to do custom audio. Worked as well as the factory loop fabric on the mat. Like this stuff: Amazon Speaker box carpet.

The round hook parts that go into the car's carpet were from previous OE floor mat purchases on other Bimmers. Not sure if you can buy those separately or not.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

Sure. The fabric I used is speaker box covering style carpet. Most use a grey but I have black here from when I used to do custom audio. Worked as well as the factory loop fabric on the mat. Like this stuff: Amazon Speaker box carpet.

The round hook parts that go into the car's carpet were from previous OE floor mat purchases on other Bimmers. Not sure if you can buy those separately or not.

If you swing by a dealer they’ll probably give you the Velcro bits for free. They have tons of them that eventually get thrown out.

Nice work on the mat! I need to work on my passenger side one. Fixed the driver side for the same reason you did.

[blue dragon]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

I'm the same. I'm sure we're in the minority, but on the F15 specifically, I prefer the X line body kit to the msport. Haven't looked into splitters, but will now that you mention it.

Definitely in the minority

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by blue dragon

Definitely in the minority

I'm aware.

09/04/2021

- Had 4 new Toyo Proxes STIII installed at the local Discount Tire. $1029.99

10/06/2021

- Oil change time. Went a bit longer than I like to on this change, almost 9,000 miles. Typically like to do 7-7.5k miles but what are you going to do. Used FCP Liqui Moly kit. KIT-11428507683KT3 $69.86





- Replaced fuel filter with a Hengst from FCP. Note: X5 will stumble for the first few starts and throw a code for low fuel rail pressure. I tried to use the Foxwell NT530 to do the bleed procedure but it froze on me during the process. Scared the hell out of me as the pump just kept running. I tried to start the X5 after disconnecting the Foxwell and it wouldn't start. Just cranked. Cycled ignition, and this time it fired right up. Cleared the low rail pressure code and moved on. Mahle is the OES for BMW in case anyone was curious and wants the original filter. 13327811227 $31.79

- Installed 3 new jack pads as 2 were missing and 1 was in poor shape. These are Rein branded from FCP and work fine. Side note, you can also see my metal pucks that I use for putting my BMWs on stands (or jacking from the jack pad). They are metal Potauto pucks from Amazon. Used them for years and love them. 51717189259 $26.07





- Changed the transfer case fluid. I salute those who do this without taking the shields down and dropping the crossmember. My gorilla hands would not fit in there to get the plug back on so down everything came. Used S-Tec (Shell) trans fluid. 83222409710 $42.59





Notes on dropping the crossmember.

Because I was doing the fuel filter I had to remove the 3 splash pans anyway so dropping the Xmember was not much additional work. I looked at it as a plus anyway as I like to inspect the guibos, u-joints on the front driveshaft, and the trans mount bushing on a "new to me" BMW. These were all in pretty good condition ~92000 miles.

- First remove the 2 splash pans from the left side of the vehicle and the center trans splash pan. Some push pins, 10mm plastic nuts, and a whack ton of 8mm screws.

- Then undo the 1 small torx bolt holding the NOX sensor bracket.

- Next unscrew the NOX sensor from the exhaust on the right hand side of the vehicle with a 14mm open ended wrench. Or better yet, o2 sensor style socket. Undo from the 3 cable clamps and let the sensor hang.

- Now support the transmission with a jack and wide piece of wood, or a trans jack. Lift it slightly to take the load off the transfer case/transmission mount bushing.

- Undo the long bolt that goes through the mount. It's an 18mm bolt and an 18mm nut. You can fit an 18mm open ended wrench in there to hold the nut. The bolt is very long and doesn't need to come all the way out, just enough to clear the rubber bushing/mount.

- Then remove 6 16mm bolts to drop the crossmember from the body. You don't need to get it all the way off. It will be wedged by the exhaust and transfer case but it will swing down plenty enough to give you the access you need for the plug on the Xfer case.

- Use a level on your trans pan (or the piece of wood supporting it like I did) and adjust it until level. Now you can service your transfer case as normal. Easy right.

Torque specs:

Transfer case fill plug (x1 14mm allen) - 60Nm or ~45ft lbs

Crossmember to body (x6 16mm) - 38Nm or ~28ft lbs

Transfer case mount (x1 18mm bolt + nut) - 68Nm or ~51ft lbs

[Clifton]

More of a data point tied to your mention of the 9.2K service interval. Blackstone Oil recommended that I extend my oil changes to 8.5k. I was surprised given the shorter trips and duty cycles I use my 3.5d for.

[milkyway]

Nice writeup for this new DIY, crystalworks. Can you share the link of metal potato pucks from Amazon so to make sure right one is ordered. Thank you!

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by milkyway

Nice writeup for this new DIY, crystalworks. Can you share the link of metal potato pucks from Amazon so to make sure right one is ordered. Thank you!

No problem. I need to correct the post, lol, they are "Potauto Pucks" not potato pucks. You're not the first to ask about that.

POTAUTO PUCKS on AMAZON

[JamesInSJ]

Love the write-up throughout. I was in a similar boat a couple years ago when I picked up my 2015 X5d at 69k miles. Did a lot of the same things, including those stupid door seals (driver side was already messed up when I got it, now have to do passenger side).

You should look up the full procedures here for the tranny pan replacement. Initial fill is cold (duh), but then you need to bring the tranny up to a certain temperature, best measured with a scan tool or whatever you have that will get tranny temp. It takes a lot longer than 30 seconds at 2000rpm. Also make sure your car is level. The slope in my garage was enough that I needed to jack up the rear end at least an extra inch. I only got ~3L in on cold, then another 1.5L in jat the proper fill temp. I did a short easy drive, let tranny cool down back to the proper fill temperature, properly leveled it out and easily got another 1.5L+ in there. The "warm" fill is done with the engine running too.

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by JamesInSJ

You should look up the full procedures here for the tranny pan replacement. Initial fill is cold (duh), but then you need to bring the tranny up to a certain temperature, best measured with a scan tool or whatever you have that will get tranny temp. It takes a lot longer than 30 seconds at 2000rpm. Also make sure your car is level. The slope in my garage was enough that I needed to jack up the rear end at least an extra inch. I only got ~3L in on cold, then another 1.5L in jat the proper fill temp. I did a short easy drive, let tranny cool down back to the proper fill temperature, properly leveled it out and easily got another 1.5L+ in there. The "warm" fill is done with the engine running too.

Yep, looked up the full procedure and realized it differed from the 6hp26/28 that are in my other BMWs. It's mostly the same, except for filling the torque converter by rev'ing for 30 seconds @ 2000 rpm. I always put a level the trans pan (as pictured above) before doing any fluid services.

We've put 6000+ miles on it since the fluid change so I'll let it ride for now. In 15000 miles I'll do a fluid drop and use the correct fill procedure.

[Ascotgrun]

Is there a recommended scan tool that does trans temp?. Would love to have ISTA but acquiring that seems fraught with issues. Tried downloading multiple times but never with any success.

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by Ascotgrun

Is there a recommended scan tool that does trans temp?. Would love to have ISTA but acquiring that seems fraught with issues. Tried downloading multiple times but never with any success.

Yes, getting ISTA to run sucks. Took me 4 attempts over multiple weekends.

I use the Foxwell NT530 as my go to. Will give you trans temp and is very handy as it does battery registration, parking brake service position, driveline component adaptations, and many other useful service functions.

[Ascotgrun]

Thanks. Will look into the scanner.

[crystalworks]

Haven't done much to the F15 lately but have been dealing with a CEL for a couple months after the weather got cold (see extended warranty coverage thread for more info on that). Been working on the rest of the fleet (just added an E30 to it this weekend). I wonder if they have meetings for people with BMW addictions? F15 is now at ~97000 miles.

01/09/2022

- BMW dealer replaced both NOX sensors under warranty (see above referenced thread for SIB/warranty docs) 13628589844 & 13628589844 $0.00

They found code 2B6200 so replaced both sensors, programmed vehicle, and updated integration level. Since I don't plan on tuning the DDE this doesn't bother me, but I assume this means that it is now "locked" after seeing others reference such things after a dealer visit?

I should have some updates upcoming after I get the E61 wagon out of the garage. Just have to retime the valvetrain and put it together (replaced 4 broken head bolts in front causing massive oil leak). Ordered a full set of brakes, some appearance upgrades, and will do some caliper painting in preparation for a family trim coming up.

[sukhk527]

E30 you say? Tell us more!

if you got an I-Step update then it's likely your DME is locked now. If you have an ENET cable you can download the MHD app and run the unlock check.

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by sukhk527

E30 you say? Tell us more!

if you got an I-Step update then it's likely your DME is locked now. If you have an ENET cable you can download the MHD app and run the unlock check.

I'm not overly concerned with the DDE being locked as long as I can still do coding on the other modules. Don't plan on doing any tuning, especially while there is outstanding extended emissions warranties. I doubt BMW would have been so helpful with replacing my NOX sensors last weekend had it been tuned. But I'm just guessing.

Okay... here is some E30 pic whoring. It's a turd POS right now. Probably overpaid for it, but with the E30 tax increasing monthly the wife and I figured it was time to buy now rather than later. She liked that it was a sedan too. Needs a whack ton of things and I am going to pull the engine to redo the wiring as the guy who did it just wanted it running and didn't care about aesthetics. The G240 trans in it can't handle the power so it pops out of 3rd under even moderate accel. I have a 5spd ZF sitting in my shed from a 328 e36 that will replace it soon. The tires on it were dated 2012 and were all separated according to the tire shop.

91 318i 5spd w/ M52 swap







^ Those are the pics when the wife and I first saw it and I got it on the lift to inspect it. Owner had it at a shop hosting a GTG and we popped on it within 15 minutes of seeing it. Bad financial decision... but can't take any money with you right?

And here it is after a night polishing the turd and having new tires put on.

[sukhk527]

Dude, nice find! I've been itching for a 325 sedan in e30 form lately but that's a pipe dream right now.

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by sukhk527

Dude, nice find! I've been itching for a 325 sedan in e30 form lately but that's a pipe dream right now.

Thanks. I trusted the seller a little more than I should have. But it did make the trip back home... so it has that going for it. lol I sold my 4 e30s (well, one was the wife's ) when we had our kids so the wife thought I deserved having one now that they are older and E30s aren't getting any cheaper. Kind of an act now or forever hold your peace situation.

The M52 and working AC was the main seller. This will be completely restored by the time I'm done with it. Always wanted a "like new" E30.

[tlow98]

Nice e30! I like the sedans, too. I love how much of a sleeper it is.

You can easily respray that trim with Wurth’s satin black flexible trim spray. Check it out - amazing stuff. High quality finish.

I bought my e46 sedan using your similar methodology - buy now or forever hold your peace. Totally agree. All of this manual shifting small sedans are booming in value. And I don’t suspect they’ll come back down anytime soon.

[crystalworks]

Finally got the wife's F15 in for some service/modding. Didn't get everything I wanted done but a fair amount. Correcting the previous owner's body shop repair job was on the top of the list. That stuff has been triggering my OCD forever.

04/30 - 05/01/2022

- Fixed the installation of the inner fender vent duct that the body shop had installed incorrectly. $0.00

- Fixed the alignment of the PS headlight that the body shop did a shoddy job of installing after an accident from previous owner. They did not replace every part. Apparently it was hit on the RF and down the right hand side of the car. But it had bent the aluminum support bar that the headlight bolts to. $0.00

Before:





Wanted to match driver's side:



After :





Had to attach wire harnesses to their intended mounts as the shop also neglected to do so after the "repair." The "adjustment method" as per ISTA:



- Repaired headlight scratches that the dealership technician put into the top of the headlight (only part not protected by PPF) somehow. I used my typical headlight restoration method of wetsanding, polishinging, and then sealing with urethane. $0.00

Before and after:





- Replaced the front left vertical acceleration sensor. ISTA was reporting instances of implausible readings since purchased so had a stored code. Replaced the sensor and cleared codes. 37146876451 $201.11



- Installed clear fender lenses that I've had for awhile but not installed because you have to pull the inner fender liners. Well, needed to for the headlights so finally got these on too. Really like them. $25.70

- Installed some fender vent embellishments that have the Xdrive script. Debadged the Xdrive 35d door badge. Fitment on these is just okay, they don't sit flat everywhere and I wouldn't be surprised if they fell off at some point. Too bad, because I really like the look. For the price, can't complain. $32.39





- Adjusted the sunroof rear glass panel. It was out of alignment and was sitting too low. Probably causing too much resistance and tripping the "anti trap" sensors as it would never close properly without assistance from above when trying to use the vent function. Nice to have this working as it has been non-func since we bought the car. Adjusted the panel and ran through the initialization. Works a treat now. $0.00

And the list. Didn't get it all done... but the rest can wait until I have some more time. What are you gonna do.