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      11-10-2022, 10:16 PM   #23
acmurda
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chilled View Post
Just looked at the Parts for the 35, for some reason thought you guys also had the upper/lower split. Year its going to be pricy. The subframe needs to come out.

I just would be cautions about doing any sort of tapping/inserts in the of chance any metal shavings are left in the pan.
Tap it, put a valve in and forget it...making it way more difficult than it has to be. Fill and drain the oil once to clear out any shavings. No need for thread serts or heli coil or anything. M14-1.50 tap = $14
Valvomax drain = $49
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      11-10-2022, 10:38 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acmurda View Post
Tap it, put a valve in and forget it...making it way more difficult than it has to be. Fill and drain the oil once to clear out any shavings. No need for thread serts or heli coil or anything. M14-1.50 tap = $14
Valvomax drain = $49
Never having the same problem again = Priceless
I have same setup. Acura dealership retapped to m14-1.50 and put a acura bolt in. Anyways I was leaking oil from pan gasket and valve cover. I was finishing a quart every 1200K mi than when I got it fixed I was still burning but at 2800K mi. Than I discovered that the drain bolt is leaking without any detection possibly because it does it why driving. I put on a new gasket since no one was installing gaskets since it didn't fit OEM. Now I'm good. No more burning. Is there any better gaskets? Also if that valve thing come with special gaskets?
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      11-10-2022, 11:28 PM   #25
acmurda
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Quote:
Originally Posted by osmansiddiqui95 View Post
I have same setup. Acura dealership retapped to m14-1.50 and put a acura bolt in. Anyways I was leaking oil from pan gasket and valve cover. I was finishing a quart every 1200K mi than when I got it fixed I was still burning but at 2800K mi. Than I discovered that the drain bolt is leaking without any detection possibly because it does it why driving. I put on a new gasket since no one was installing gaskets since it didn't fit OEM. Now I'm good. No more burning. Is there any better gaskets? Also if that valve thing come with special gaskets?
I cut out a gasket from a bigger PTFE gasket. Its a soft teflon material and works with high temperatures and on rough and uneven surfaces. Your plug most likely leaked because the new threads probably weren't tapped dead straight. This gasket would help in such situations.
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      11-11-2022, 12:45 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acmurda View Post
Tap it, put a valve in and forget it...making it way more difficult than it has to be. Fill and drain the oil once to clear out any shavings. No need for thread serts or heli coil or anything. M14-1.50 tap = $14
Valvomax drain = $49
Never having the same problem again = Priceless
Do you mean just screw the M14 in with force and does not use other tapping tools?
M14 is much larger than M12. For size, M14>1/2>M12. So does 1/2 safe for screw in than M14?

I am afraid of cracking the lower oil pan with hard force to screw into the M14 directly.
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      11-11-2022, 01:12 AM   #27
acmurda
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E90325M View Post
Do you mean just screw the M14 in with force and does not use other tapping tools?
M14 is much larger than M12. For size, M14>1/2>M12. So does 1/2 safe for screw in than M14?

I am afraid of cracking the lower oil pan with hard force to screw into the M14 directly.
No, make new threads using the M14-1.50 tap.
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      11-12-2022, 12:09 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acmurda View Post
I cut out a gasket from a bigger PTFE gasket. Its a soft teflon material and works with high temperatures and on rough and uneven surfaces. Your plug most likely leaked because the new threads probably weren't tapped dead straight. This gasket would help in such situations.
That's good to know. Is there anyway I can fix mine instead to make it dead center?
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      11-12-2022, 07:55 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by osmansiddiqui95 View Post
That's good to know. Is there anyway I can fix mine instead to make it dead center?
softer gasket would work. I have precut gaskets for M14 plugs if anyone wants
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      11-13-2022, 12:29 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by acmurda View Post
softer gasket would work. I have precut gaskets for M14 plugs if anyone wants
Nice. How can I purchase it?
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      11-13-2022, 02:25 PM   #31
acmurda
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no need to purchase, dm me your shipping address.
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      11-14-2022, 11:47 PM   #32
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Found a local bimmer shop to do re-tapping for me tomorrow morning and I actually prefer to keep OEM spec and can use the washer which come with the oil filter. Will report back the result once my car is fixed.
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      11-17-2022, 10:53 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by acmurda View Post
no need to purchase, dm me your shipping address.
Do you torque the bolt to factory spec 25nm aswell?
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      11-19-2022, 05:44 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E90325M View Post
Found a local bimmer shop to do re-tapping for me tomorrow morning and I actually prefer to keep OEM spec and can use the washer which come with the oil filter. Will report back the result once my car is fixed.
My bimmershop fixed my lower oil pan thread with Timer sert and keep the M12 drain plug same spec except it is a 18mm than OEM 17mm.
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      01-02-2023, 09:44 PM   #35
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The copper crush-washer should be replaced every time the drain plug bolt is removed. Once torqued to the 25nm - its done. Only one cycle. It sounds almost like some of these failures may be from over tightening, attempting to get a seal with the old washer.
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      08-21-2023, 10:32 AM   #36
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I changed the oil for the first time since purchase and when I pulled the drain plug, it cross threaded and most of the threads came out with it (aluminum oil pan and over tightening). I bought a tap and new plug kit and re-tapped the pan.
Completely cover the threads of the tap with grease before cutting the new threads. The metal shavings will stick to the grease and come out with the tap. I also poured a quart of oil back thru the engine, just as a flush. Hope this helps.
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      12-27-2023, 11:46 AM   #37
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Happy holidays. E90 I wanted to know since you did the time-sert. Have you had any problems with the oil leak? I’m in the situation with the stripped oil pan bolt and was thinking about taking route. My main concern with this route is the metal shaving left in the oil pan. Thank for any information.
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      12-27-2023, 06:03 PM   #38
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When mine stripped I just tapped the drain pan for a larger bolt. I didn't use any kind of insert. I was in a bind so I just bought a stainless bolt from Home Depot that was large enough and tapped the threads to match it. I don't even remember what size/thread pitch.

It has held so far even after another oil change. I bought some plastic washers that I use with the new bolt and no leaks at all.

I poured a quart of some cheap oil I had laying around to flush out any possible metal shavings before I refilled it, but I doubt there were any. There was a slow steady drip from the drain hole as I was running the tap so that flushed the hole as I was tapping.
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      01-10-2024, 09:18 PM   #39
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Thanks for the info. Took the car to my mechanic and he wants to replace the oil pan all together. He couldn’t get the bolt. Oil bolt kept spinning. Oil wasn’t leaking thought it would have. He quote me 1500 since the job is labor intensive. I’m thinking of taking it to the dealer and see what they can do. Any shop recommendations would be great. Live in nyc in Brooklyn. Thanks
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      01-13-2024, 08:13 PM   #40
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Same! I don't work on cars but I asked my cousin who does to help me. Thing is he doesn't really work on BMW's so when we put the drain plug back on we used a torque wrench and may have went a little beyond. Fast forward to the next oil change and I tried to do it myself but the thing wasn't moving. I gave up and took it to some quick oil change place and they told me that the dang thing was just hanging there.

They told me to take it to a dealership so they could charge me a bajillion dollars to get a new oil pan.
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