New owner, F15 XDrive35i ‘Build’

[tlow98]

Ok, valve cover is leaking.

Not looking forward to this, but hey, the OE kit is only $55 so there's that.

[tlow98]

Ok, accomplished the VC job. It wasn’t hard, but is annoying with all the little bits and bobs

Also, managed to break the vent hose attached to the intake tube. The one I bought from Amazon earlier in the thread. It’s definitely garbage. It probably would have lasted longer than the ~15k if I wouldn’t have removed it.

The dealer had one in stock. $62 with taxes. We’ll see how long this one lasts!

Replaced:
VC gasket
Valvetronic gasket
Vent hose

Pleasant surprise - the previous owners really kept up on the oil changes. Next to zero varnish @ 88k miles.

View post on imgur.com

[tlow98]

Update on the rattle that was annoying while in gear at a stop:

- Somehow it has disappeared. Shocked. Happy.

Maybe the new motor mounts "broke in" and no longer provide the same level of vibration transmission? Who knows... Whatever it is I'm just happy it's gone.

[simonc1]

Love the maintenance on this. I'm looking at picking up an F15 35i or 35d and am keeping tabs on what things I'd want to tackle. Nice job and I'm in the Bay Area as well. Just a little uneasy of the mpg's for city driving on a 35i so any thoughts on that since you're local?

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by simonc1

Love the maintenance on this. I'm looking at picking up an F15 35i or 35d and am keeping tabs on what things I'd want to tackle. Nice job and I'm in the Bay Area as well. Just a little uneasy of the mpg's for city driving on a 35i so any thoughts on that since you're local?

Hey local!

Yeah, it’s not great from an mpg perspective around town. 18-20ish which is normal. Highway can easily get 25-26 mpg. I also was looking at the diesel, but if you’re doing lots of short runs with a diesel it won’t be a happy car. Many people that don’t exercise the diesels have emissions related issues that can be rather costly.

If we were using ours for a lot of highway I’d have absolutely gone for the diesel.

At the end of the day I chose to pay more at the pump and less in repairs. I’ve even towed 5k lbs with it over 8 hours. Did great. With the being said, I’m sure the diesel would have been better!

I was really after reliability with this purchase as it’s the wife’s car mostly.

[tlow98]

I am posting this here for anyone that finds it. I solved my cold start stumble very easily.

2014 XDrive 35i

I unplugged the MAF on a cold engine and gave it one complete warm-up and drive cycle with the MAF unplugged (it ran fine and no check engine light came on). Then I plugged the MAF back in and allowed the motor to go back to completely cold before turning it on again.

The issue has not returned for 1 month of daily starts. Previously, it was stumbling and running rough on every single cold start for 5 months. I was dreading the injector replacement or taking it back to the dealer for coding. Neither was necessary.

I can't explain it, but I saw it posted a couple of other places and it also worked for me. I'm assuming it resets some adaptions.

Anyway, hope this helps someone!

[poldt600]

Congrats!

[lonestar22]

Originally Posted by Ascotgrun

I got my 2017 S35i in March with 51K on it and I had tensioner wobble. I did belt, tensioner and idler ( plus all filters and engine oil) and still have some wobble, can't really determine if it's the same as before though.

I was pressed for time and Rock Auto was the most reasonable for priority shipping so I bought from them, which means my tensioner is a Gates branded item. Kind of on the fence about buying an OEM part to see if that cures the wobble....or I might just put that money towards a Kies crankseal protector thingy and just let the belt do whatever it's going to do.

Good luck with the new ride and hopefully you don't have a stripped oil drain plug like I did. I have rear springs,so can't help with the bag issue.

I wouldn't put alot of effort into finding an oem part for bmws. Since usually the oem parts are the ones that necessitate replacement in the first place?

[tlow98]

Update:

New 105 Amp Hour battery. The odd part was the BMW parts department had the best deal available locally. $248 without the core.

Registered with Carly. Easy job!

[tlow98]

Ok, updates.

- Brake bleed all four corners. Easy peasy and needed to be done.
- New rear shocks - this time Koni Reds. They’re much, much, better than the B4s. Makes me want to swap out the fronts for Koni reds.
- transfer case fluid swap. Approx 30k miles on the old fluid.

Bad news:
- found out my radiator has a super slow leak. Glad to have finally found it. I’ll use the opportunity to replace the water pump, thermo, and radiator.

[tlow98]

Ok, more updates.

I had taken the car apart to preventatively replace the water pump and thermostat about a month ago. While doing that I discovered a small leak in the radiator. So, buttoned it back up, ordered the radiator, and decided to go deeper.

After two OE BMW radiators showed up damaged I finally threw in the towel and ordered a Nissens. Cheap and showed up in great shape. Also, it's full aluminum construction just like OE. Heads-up, it is slightly thicker than the OE radiator (~5mm), but there are two removable clips on the radiator support that can be taken out and then it fits perfectly.

At 105k miles the cooling system was showing signs of needing help. The Mickey Mouse house was also starting to fail and fell apart when I removed it. Glad I replaced it on a hunch!

Replaced:
- Water Pump (OE) + steel ground line bolt (replacing the aluminum one)
- Thermostat (OE)
- Mickey Mouse coolant line (OE)
- Radiator (Nissens)


Leak in this area... not completely sure where. I had to add about 3 cups of coolant over two years. Glad I finally found out why.



Shiny new radiator.



Failing Mickey Mouse hose.



Shiny new pump and thermostat.

[redpit107]

Great writeup and glad to see you doing your own work. Keep it up. I just picked up a 17 35ix M Sport with 51k miles. I has good maintenance records and the spark plugs and secondary air pump were done about 5k miles ago. Thinking of doing all drivetrain fluids soon.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by redpit107

Great writeup and glad to see you doing your own work. Keep it up. I just picked up a 17 35ix M Sport with 51k miles. I has good maintenance records and the spark plugs and secondary air pump were done about 5k miles ago. Thinking of doing all drivetrain fluids soon.

Sounds like a minty ‘17 you have. I like it!

I didn’t do my drive fluids until well after your mileage, so I’m assuming your prolly ok with the exception of the transfer case and the front diff. Those were both a bit worn when I did them.

Enjoy that machine!

[redpit107]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Sounds like a minty ‘17 you have. I like it!

I didn’t do my drive fluids until well after your mileage, so I’m assuming your prolly ok with the exception of the transfer case and the front diff. Those were both a bit worn when I did them.

Enjoy that machine!

I agree. Just looking at it this way. I am starting with the car and I know how all the fluids are and when they were done. Looking at upgrading the brakes now. Several options out there. And I get to change the brake fluid while I am at it. LOL

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by redpit107

I agree. Just looking at it this way. I am starting with the car and I know how all the fluids are and when they were done. Looking at upgrading the brakes now. Several options out there. And I get to change the brake fluid while I am at it. LOL

Yep, that makes sense. Get a baseline for the fluids that way you have no surprises.

[NYAWE60]

Wow thats fantastic. This solution should live in its on sticky for other 35i owners.

Originally Posted by tlow98

I am posting this here for anyone that finds it. I solved my cold start stumble very easily.

2014 XDrive 35i

I unplugged the MAF on a cold engine and gave it one complete warm-up and drive cycle with the MAF unplugged (it ran fine and no check engine light came on). Then I plugged the MAF back in and allowed the motor to go back to completely cold before turning it on again.

The issue has not returned for 1 month of daily starts. Previously, it was stumbling and running rough on every single cold start for 5 months. I was dreading the injector replacement or taking it back to the dealer for coding. Neither was necessary.

I can't explain it, but I saw it posted a couple of other places and it also worked for me. I'm assuming it resets some adaptions.

Anyway, hope this helps someone!

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by NYAWE60

Wow thats fantastic. This solution should live in its on sticky for other 35i owners.

I cross posted in all the threads I could find related to this issue. I figure it’s in the forum god’s hands now :-)

But srsly I could not be happier with this resolution.

[bimmami]

Yeah...I've been putting this off for too long myself. Should've taken care of it last year, but life. :-/ Glad to see it wasn't hard. I think I can get away with using my BF's garage instead of paying $2200 at the dealership.

Anyway, really appreciate this thread!

Originally Posted by tlow98

Ok, accomplished the VC job. It wasn’t hard, but is annoying with all the little bits and bobs

Also, managed to break the vent hose attached to the intake tube. The one I bought from Amazon earlier in the thread. It’s definitely garbage. It probably would have lasted longer than the ~15k if I wouldn’t have removed it.

The dealer had one in stock. $62 with taxes. We’ll see how long this one lasts!

Replaced:
VC gasket
Valvetronic gasket
Vent hose

Pleasant surprise - the previous owners really kept up on the oil changes. Next to zero varnish @ 88k miles.

View post on imgur.com

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by bimmami

Yeah...I've been putting this off for too long myself. Should've taken care of it last year, but life. :-/ Glad to see it wasn't hard. I think I can get away with using my BF's garage instead of paying $2200 at the dealership.

Anyway, really appreciate this thread!

Yeah, the bulk of the pain is just removing the stuff on top of the rear three cylinders. Time consuming, but not hard.

I did not put a new valve cover on, just the gasket. I hope that was the right move! Been fine for 20k this far.