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      03-01-2022, 11:34 AM   #65
X Mon™
Reads books at a 4th grade level; I'm an enabler
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Drives: X5 35d, 335i Msport, X3, 325iX
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Southeastern Penna.

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Most importantly M20 or M50?


Quote:
Originally Posted by E34_BMW_525i View Post

A few questions, as I mentioned:

1- I believe I need both the trailer light controller and the wiring harness. I am planning to go OEM for both. How can I confirm whether I have the controller in the fuse panel area?
Pull the curb side cover in the rear of the cargo area and give it a visual inspection. It's the black box with 4 connector ports as shown in the lower left of this photo.


Quote:
Originally Posted by E34_BMW_525i View Post
2- How much ground clearance is lost with the Curt setup? I am assuming people will say it is the amount that the receiver hangs down below the rear bumper. I guess what I am really asking is, for anyone who uses their X5 for light off-road use, is it a loss of clearance that has any practical impact?
For the curt, it literally is the outside of the tube, and that's it. So ~2.5 inches or something like that, only on the center line of the vehicle. With the short overhang, I would consider it negligible impact. For off road use I'd rather have access to the hitch as a tow point anyway.


Quote:
Originally Posted by E34_BMW_525i View Post
3- Is it reasonable to assume that a local collision center / body shop can handle installing the trailer light controller and wiring harness? I know plenty of people tackle this as a DIY, but that doesn't necessarily mean it is easy. Just want to know if I need to be super particular about choosing a shop for this.
The wiring itself is relatively negligible in effort however you are inserting loose pins into connector housings as part of the process. I'd at least stick to a shop who's used to dealing with European stuff. Instructions, as you've likely seen are here: F15 Hitch Retrofit. Note that the wiring diagram at the end is incorrect.


Quote:
Originally Posted by E34_BMW_525i View Post
4- If I go with all OEM wiring, will I still need coding once things are hooked up?
Yes. The AHM/AAG module will need to be coded. You can either add the H-wort K235 or or VO Code 3AC. If a US dealer does it, they use ISTA+ to add K235, I prefer the 3AC coding and then changing the settings in the CAFD file for the powered (European) hitch.

I get through Pittsburg every month to month and half. If you'd like someone to help with coding send me a PM.
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