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      01-25-2022, 04:53 AM   #38
Chilled
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Drives: F85 X5M
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hmm, based on that logic. BMW should be paying us to buy their cars.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpecBC View Post
Thank you! That isn't as bad of a price as I'd expect but my concern is the heads are also damaged. There is someone on car-part claiming to get full long blocks from BMW for 5500. I'll see if that is true but for ease of install I think getting a full complete used engine would be easiest.

I was trying to search but I'm really curious how much force would bend a rod vs. stall an engine. What I mean is if didn't get damaged when it originally stalled from water, I have a hard time believing a starter motor would cause it to bend since it didn't seem like it ever would rotate when I was trying to start it.
I would put a $20 on saying that it's seized based on corrosion/ sediment between the pistons and walls and or the crank and the bearings. If the engine was running when it went through the water, sure, they could be bent. But if it was flooded, whilst standing still. I would put money on that its just rusted/sediment.


Just FYI, not sure on the compatibility between a regular 550, and ours. Ours upper sump has an opening for the front drive shaft. You will need to get the xDrive upper pan.



The cheaper and simplest option seems to be a used engine. Just get one from a reliable source with some warranty/guaranty that it runs (so not fleabay.).

The next would be a new long block.

As far as fitment. I would say gauge your skill realistically. If you haven't done swaps or pulls before, this is probably not the one to practice on. Not been a downer, but there is allot going on under that hood.



As far as saving the engine, well, that depends on how badly it seized, rusted and the damage that was done to it. At the very least you will need to do rings, rod pins, bearings, and probably allot of other smaller stuff. ie control/check springs/valves, vanos solenoids, ect. Depends on the type of corrosion additive or subtractive, and the damage done. You may be able to save the block, crank, pistons, and rods.

You will need to tear the entire engine apart, to check and clean every single water and oil passage way.



If you are planning on pulling this engine yourself and gettig someone else to install the new/used engine. Check with them first if they will accept the car in this state as some builders will say no.



Oh, and now. Don't forget to check all the other things that have a breather hose, or a seal. ie the diffs, transfer case, gearbox. Just drop oil, and check it for dirt.

Last edited by Chilled; 01-25-2022 at 06:33 AM..
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