Note (07/04/2019):
Went to dealer for service yesterday, found this little comment:
Quote:
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SI B01 12 18 (DC 11 15 90 01 00) FOR THIS VEHICLE, THE ENGINE CRANKCASE VENTILATION LINES WARRANTY FOR DEFECTS IN MATERIALS OR WORKMANSHIP HAS BEEN EXTENDED TO 10 YEARS/120,000 MILE AS DETERMINED FROM ORIGINAL IN-SERVICE DATE.
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So there you have it, if you are within 10 years or 120,000 mi go to the dealer for a replacement. Don’t waste your hard earned monies doing this DIY.
F15 N63TU Crankcase Ventilation Assembly Replacement Guide
After reading about the problem with our ventilation hoses and mine had a small crack, I decided to replace mine and document the process. There is a DIY - 50i Spark Plugs guide by Maverik259 that you may want to follow if you wish to do your spark plugs service as well since both involve removing common parts.
I created this one to address some issues I encountered and to help future DIY fixers.
If you wish to only fix the commonly broken connection hose, stop at step #4.
Parts needed:
11-15-8-647-962 "Vent Pipe" (It's a big contraption with valves and everything)
11-15-8-647-298 "Connecting Line" (The part that commonly breaks first)
Tools needed:
3/8" Socket wrench
Torx T30 socket
8mm Hex Socket
Short socket wrench extension
Needlenose pliers
Safely precautions:
Safety glasses
Work gloves
Adequate lighting
Warning:
Because you are working inside the engine bay please ensure that your engine block is cooled down. Because many of the plastic parts used by BMW have become brittle (the reason we are replacing these hoses), it is very likely for the parts to break into small sharp pieces during removal process therefore use of eye protection and gloves are highly suggested.
Note:
In all directions of left and right are relative to you as you work from front of the car facing the engine. All screws are Torx T30 except when indicated.
Step 1:
Remove the rear engine cover.
Step 2:
First we start with the commonly broken connecting hose. As the left side expansion tank is covering the connecting hose plug, you need to move it out of the way. Start with left side and remove the screws shown. After the hex screw is removed you can lift up the expansion tank and move it out of the way as its hoses are all flexible.
Step 3:
Remove remaining screw holding the expansion tank bracket and lift the expansion tank adapter out of the way. You should now be able to see the connecting hose to the engine.
Step 4:
Follow this hose to see the engine side. The hose is held to the engine with two clips and looks the same on both ends. According to the design of the connector you are suppose to depress the two sides that are grooved to force the clips to move away so you can pull the connector off. I have found this is impossible because (1) the plastic is brittle (2) there isn’t much room to work with. For optional instruction, please go to Step X below.
Step 5:
Now we work on the ventilation valve assembly.
Step 6:
We now go the right side of the engine. We start by removing the screws.
Step 7:
To remove the valve assembly, first lift up the wire holder assembly and rotate the right side valve clock-wise approximately 30º; then lift up to remove. It is keyed so you need to rotate it and the holder is in the way. It will be very easy to remove when the key is in the notch in the engine. Do not forcibly remove; you do not want to try to retrieve broken plastic in your engine.
Step 8:
On the left side the steps are the same, except you need to rotate the connector approximately 30º counter-clockwise before you can pull the connector out.
Step 9:
Remove the connectors to the intake hoses. These are the same connectors as the connecting hose just bigger in size.
Step 10:
You have now removed the valve assembly and ready to installation of the replacement part. Follow this guide in the reverse.
Step X:
If you cannot remove these types of connector locks, you may need to employ the destructive method. WARNING: You cannot reuse the connector if you do this.
Before:
After:
