[beerglass007]

I've got a automatic E90 LCI 330D sport 2010 which has a weird fault.

When driving slowly over a speed bump or approaching a round about or junction I take my foot of the throttle as I slow up. Then feather the throttle and start to press the throttle down slowly.

Normally the car would start to pickup speed and revs, but sometime nothing happens. As I keep slowly pressing the throttle down more and more until it kicks down and flys off.

Its like there is some sort of lag or the car doesn't know what gear it should use and in the end kicks down and flys off

BMW have checked the gearbox oil levels, upgraded the gearbox firmware, replaced a stuck swirl flap and now re-programming the whole car

They just don't know what is causing this issue

Has anyone else had this type of problem

I really don't rate these BMW automatic gearboxes

[MEGA]

Clutch Delay Valve and/or torque converter

I wouldn't worry about it

[beerglass007]

Originally Posted by MEGA

Clutch Delay Valve and/or torque converter

I wouldn't worry about it

Why wouldn't you worry about it ?

It makes the driving horrible. Sometimes you go to move forward off a junction and nothing happens, as I press the throttle harder it kicks down and lights the rear wheels up

The other day I had the car going sideways coming off a main road into a side street where the car didn't responded to the gentle throttle tap, i kept pressing and pressing the throttle until it kicked in and down launching the car forward lighting the rear end up

Not a nice drive

[m20b25]

I get te same, although maybe not as aggressive. Like you, I push the throttle to a point that would usually move the car/accelerate at a steady point but nothing happens... so push harder then bam, were off. However if I keep my foot at the same position for another second or so, it sorts itself out and moves off. That second seems a lot longer than a second though.

I'm probably getting the gearbox refresh kit that I came across when searching for gearbox issues here

[beerglass007]

Yeah sounds like mine. Rubbish for a 3 year old car and 60K miles. The main dealer doesn't know how to fix it

[m20b25]

It's disappointing. Made worse by the fact I was in a VW caddy type taxi the other day and the gear changes were completely seamless. Pissed me off a bit.

[beerglass007]

yes....Looking at a Golf GTD or GTI manual without the silly run flats and gearbox.

[Jase 320d]

My other halfs golf mk5 gt tsi manual has a screwed 5th gear synchro.

So don't go thinking another marque is without its issues either


My leon fr tdi had a whine on coasting and fabia vrs i popped the main shaft out the end of the gearbox

[beerglass007]

Thanks for cheering me up guys hehehehehe


I have an old VW T4 with 198K on the clock. Still drives like new and on the road more than my 40K BMW hahahahaha

[Len_Beach]

Is it DSC related? I've just moved to a 330d LCI from an E92 M3 and I can't believe the level of intrusion from the DSC in comparison to the M3.

My cruise control will deactivate on the motorway when accelerating as it thinks the wheels are spinning.

The winters don't help at all.

[m20b25]

That's odd, maybe you need something resetting.

To me it feels like a software / computer issue as in the computer isn't sure what to do. As though its gets itself into a quandary, weighs up the options, then makes a decision and acts on it.

I believe the 335 and 330 have the same ZF box. Mines on 80k so it will need an oil refresh.

[Robin330i]

Exactly the same issue I have and it's worse when I am towing my trailer.

Mines a 330i with the 6 speed ZF box - I have been looking at ways to find out what the fault is but never got round to it.

I have tried clearing the adaptions on the box and also checking for fault codes without success.

[Jules59]

Originally Posted by beerglass007

I've got a automatic E90 LCI 330D sport 2010 which has a weird fault.

When driving slowly over a speed bump or approaching a round about or junction I take my foot of the throttle as I slow up. Then feather the throttle and start to press the throttle down slowly.

Normally the car would start to pickup speed and revs, but sometime nothing happens. As I keep slowly pressing the throttle down more and more until it kicks down and flys off.

Its like there is some sort of lag or the car doesn't know what gear it should use and in the end kicks down and flys off

BMW have checked the gearbox oil levels, upgraded the gearbox firmware, replaced a stuck swirl flap and now re-programming the whole car

They just don't know what is causing this issue

Has anyone else had this type of problem

I really don't rate these BMW automatic gearboxes

Whats it like if you flick the gear selector to sport mode and manually select M2 for starting ?

Ive found that the smoothest "fast " start I can get is to select M2 to start and then select M3 at 3000rpm ish - only one gear change to get to 60mph.
Mine is remapped and 1st is too low and tends to be really jerking as you run out of revs almost immediately and the traction control dumps the power following wheelspin unless you have the "safeties" part or full off.

[ndj]

The DCT gearbox has a similar characteristic, improved but not totally cured by software upgrades.

I'm no expert but I'm also guessing it's a software/firmware issue or perhaps an intermittent throttle position sensor problem?

[Robin330i]

On mine i can replicate the problem everytime by putting it into manual mode and going full throttle at less than 1500rpm.

[330d xdrive Scotty]

I had a similar issue - pressing the accelerator pedal and the car felt like it had lean combustion, leave the accelerator in the same position or press down harder would make it rear up and shoot off.

I found it was made worse with the map - similar comment as previous - the computer thinking about what to do and then making a decision. There are probably numerous fault that could cause this, but i renewed the turbo pressure temp sensor - part number 13627792203 which resolved the problem for me.

My fuel economy has started to improve and the general response of the car is spot on.

Car is 56 plate on 70k.

[old grey steve]

We're now seeing a good few auto's and diesels as well as petroleum with various issues from thumping through the gears on down chage and especially when the car comes to a halt to elasticity when coming on/off throttle where there's a perceptible lag when applying the throttle after say coasting or using a light trailing throttle. And it could be a number of things.

On the engine front various units are talking to each other so if the gearbox is registering a fault then the ECU will take the appropriate steps hence the various issues re drivability.

On the engine side boost pressure switch as described earlier and on the vacuum side the pressure regulator valve called many things but sits under the inlet manifold can all create problems, they break down over time and we've replaced shed loads the Perth about £73.00 but it does make a difference and can create drive ability issues poor economy etc. if we have an issue here then plug in boxes and occasionally re maps can add to engine woes but not all the time but the worse offenders will be tuning boxes as a rule.

The other thing as I said we see are gearbox problems and this is basically what we do. We'd drive the car to get an idea what's going in then look to see diagnostic wise what's going on if we see a gearbox related issues here's what we do.

The first thing we generally look at is the cars underside to see if we've got a leaking/sweating sump because if we have the box won't work efficiently use to loss of fluid and these sumps as they are made of plastic are sadly prone to leaks.

If there's a leak it'll get worse and it needs attending to (sump comes complete with a filter & gasket) and then there's the matter of around 6.5 litres of fluid(sadly not just any old ATF fluid or Dexton fluid) but it needs to be the correct stuff. We have to recommend this as the first port of call as to be fair if it's leaking it needs attending too. If you see feel a difference in D or DS as some people do then the fluids usually the right move. If the sumps not leaking I for instance replaced my fluid at 69000 mikes and trust me when it came out in no way resembled the new fluid in colour smell and thickness that came out. Really makes a mockery of sealed off life.

Replacing it takes around 1.5 hours and this includes running the car up putting fluid in while some one above runs the car through the gears to get the stuff flowing then you'll see it over flowing once this is done plug her up leave the car to idle for a while then run the car though gears again opening up the filler cap adding fluid once again it's seen to be flowing out then you know the sumps at the right level.

Then we'll run the car on the road allowing the gearbox to work under load.... Usually 80% of the cars reported issues disappear once this is done, the other steps worth doing after you've checked for leakage and confirmed that it was/wasn't leaking is to clear the boxes adaptations then take the car for a controlled drive(procedure for doing this to ensure everything goes according to plan is fairly robust but requires carefully getting the gearbox to carry out all it's tasks and as the driver over time introducing it to increased loads) I done mine myself and now in D, S and DS as well as M modes the gearbox is so much better(I previously had the gearbox sump and fluid changed and re set the adaptations) to do this correctly though diagnostic software such as the Autologic we use at work is required to do this.

The other option that I done last year on my car was to carryover a software update which we checked via CIP(software updates available to each chassis)and this again can make a real difference.

Combine everything together you Autobox will feel totally different, plus you get usually a small benefit re fuel economy too.

Hope this kinda helps