Front end clunk sound.

[kodpkd]

My daughters 2017 X5 has a distinct front end clunk sound. Sounds like it's coming from the front left side. It happens when going over bumps. Not associated with turning or wheel spin or drive line turning.

Has anybody had good luck with Bison Performance Parts?

[Edwardsc1]

Mine has this as well, I believe it has to do with control arms, tie rods, or bushings. Maybe a combo haha I would just get your suspension checked and see if anything is worn out. I need to do the same.

[kodpkd]

Thank you.
All I hear is horror stories when you go to the dealer. My daughter will never go back to her dealer. I can do the work, I just don't want to start throwing parts at it. I wouldn't think it's a tie rod. Maybe the strut rod or the two lower control arms.

[Edwardsc1]

Yeah I would definitely avoid the dealership unless you've got one near you with a great reputation. Otherwise any Euro shop should be able to diagnose it for you relatively easily. Bonus points if you can do the labor yourself, that'll save you hundreds

[m4forum]

The items that most wear on front suspension are the sway bar links and ball joints. Normally they are the source of clunk noise.
Specifically on X5 follow below the pictures for the components I am referring too.
Suggest them to be visually inspected and replaced if necessary.

[kodpkd]

The sway bar link would be the easiest and cheapest to change. I just have to figure out if the car has assisted steering.

[kodpkd]

SO! I tried to find what was making the clunk. I checked all the control arms on both sides, the steering links, the strut rods. Nothing seemed loose. I lubed the stabilizer bar bushings. I even tightened the hood. I heard the hood can be loose and cause a noise,,, nope. Nothing on either side seemed to be loose. I used a pry bar on all the parts.

[m4forum]

Initially I used a pry bar also with the car lifted to check for any play on the ball joints ... didnt work as everything is torqued ... the only way I was able to find the issue was by disconnecting the parts so the ball join would be completely free ... guess what found the issue on sway bar links and lower control arm ... the ones I pointed out on pictures before.

[kodpkd]

Thank you, that's what I read. I guess I just need to start replacing parts. ..... I have a sway bar link coming. I think that would be easiest to change first.

[tlow98]

How many miles are on the car?

With BMWs at or over 100k miles you can safely assume all the parts (save for the upper ball joint) are nearing the point where they no longer are in top shape. To save time and frustration I just normally replace them all and start over. It’s like $1k with quality parts and the car will drive like new. Use bilstein b4 shocks to save money. The rest buy lemforder parts as they’re OE and reasonably priced.

[tlow98]

Once you’re in there it’s basically two bolts per part and you save all the time of re-doing it.

If it’s lower mileage, I’d consider taking to to a BMW specialist Indy shop, but likely you’ll end up paying close to that $1k mark with labor anyway.

That’s normally why I just shot-gun all at the same time with all new and then I don’t have to worry about it for another 100k.

[tlow98]

The sway bar mounts I would not do as they’re very reliable and require dropping the subframe which I’m not interested in.

[kodpkd]

It's the sway bar link that I am replacing. The car only has about 60,000 miles.
Last time my daughter took her car to the BMW dealer, they tripled the cost, They are crooks, a total screw job. NEVER again.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by kodpkd

It's the sway bar link that I am replacing. The car only has about 60,000 miles.
Last time my daughter took her car to the BMW dealer, they tripled the cost, They are crooks, a total screw job. NEVER again.

Yeah, pretty low mileage. I’ve also been screwed by the dealer so I feel your pain.

[kodpkd]

DONE! The new sway bar link stopped the CLUNK! Hallelujah!

A side note: When installing the link, have both front wheels off the ground. The only problem I had was with the right side on the ground and the left side jacked up, I had to use a big bar to bend the sway bar so the link would match the holes.