buying a used 2017 x5m

[kangfu84]

Originally Posted by Chilled

I guess the question is how long to you plan on keeping it. With parts I doubt you will get much change from $5K.

But if you do grenade the engine, I haven't seen to many shops up here(Bris) that do these things regularly. You maybe be more lucky in Syd, but most I've found when pressed have only ever built 1 or so as a test. Not a regular thing.

Just FYI.
If you spin a bearing and need a new crank, thats $7k AUD, or a new long block is $59K

Plan on keeping it for a while, I'd keep it as a toy/second car and get a new car if me or my wife got sick of it.

I've got these guys near me in Sydney, just flicked them an email for a quote on the work.
https://www.advanperformance.com.au/.

Since the car is my daily, perhaps I'll try and arrange to get this done next I'm away on a holiday or something so I don't need/miss the car.

Edit: Got recommended these guys who apparently do S65s and S85s all the time so will see what they quote.

Brintech Customs
(02) 9624 4259
https://maps.app.goo.gl/46S1qBXX7DvQK77v7

Edit2: Quoted 4.8K from the above inc parts (ACL Race bearings). 2-3 days. Just working out when I want to get it done now I guess but good to know I have options in Sydney

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by kangfu84

Brintech Customs
(02) 9624 4259
https://maps.app.goo.gl/46S1qBXX7DvQK77v7

Edit2: Quoted 4.8K from the above inc parts (ACL Race bearings). 2-3 days. Just working out when I want to get it done now I guess but good to know I have options in Sydney

Just make sure they replace all the stupid front diff/drive shaft O-rings and gaskets. On top of the oil pump o-ring's.

[stoqnski]

To what others have added, I would also advise to buy your own oil and original filter and have an reputable indy shop change if you can't do it yourself. Do not change your oil at a dealership. Too many horror stories on here and other forums with folks that have done that. For oil I recommend Motul LL-01 FE 5W-30.

[Northernx5m]

Originally Posted by stoqnski

To what others have added, I would also advise to buy your own oil and original filter and have an reputable indy shop change if you can't do it yourself. Do not change your oil at a dealership. Too many horror stories on here and other forums with folks that have done that. For oil I recommend Motul LL-01 FE 5W-30.

Where I live in northern bc, Canada, I’m just below Alaska and it can get to -45/-50 in the winter months, is that oil good for cold temps?

[suitedcboy]

If you start and drive at those frigid temps then you need an over wintertime oil change to 0W20 to be safe. Heat tape wrapped around the lower sump would be an alternate if plugging it in if it is ever going to be off 6 or more hours is possible. If there was a dipstick you could use a dipstick oil heater but.....................

[Ad20058]

Glad to see there aren’t really too many things that are concerning on this. I’m thinking about getting on this platform coming from a e92 which is riddled with things to watch out for.

[stoqnski]

Originally Posted by Northernx5m

Where I live in northern bc, Canada, I’m just below Alaska and it can get to -45/-50 in the winter months, is that oil good for cold temps?

For cold temp environments, switch to their 0W-30. Thats what I do. Every 3000 miles oil change if its winter 0W-30. If its summer, 5W-30.

[CryptoHeff]

If I had my time again, I wouldn't get anything with an S63.

Bought a F85 with about 45k KMs, always serviced by the dealer until I bought it (three year warranty had ended).

I've really looked after the car (always good oil, never more than 7.5k between oil changes, heaps of proactive maintenance) and it's had a pretty easy life.

Engine is seized at 87k KMs. I suspect it's spun a rod bearing but won't know until it's torn down.

Currently at Brintech in Sydney. Been trying to get it in since mid October. Dropped it off in early Jan and was told they'll touch base in two weeks because I'll need to tow the car home while they rebuild the engine. Monday was two weeks and haven't heard anything yet.

Seem like good blokes in person, seem to really know their stuff, but their communication hasn't been great - fingers crossed with summer nearly over things pick up and we make some progress.

This is going to be a long and expensive exercise.

Edit: and just to add, I'm aware of some people who have had failures with front driveshafts, transfer cases and front diffs. So no doubt, once I sort the engine, something like that will happen.