Something Every X5M owner should check every 80-100k miles.

[musa]

I asked twice if $600 is for labor and parts, they clarified labor only and parts extra. The SA even called in the shop foreman to understand what I wanted to be done, and he confirmed he knows there's a screw to turn to adjust the oil pump chain tension, however he observed that he's never seen a vehicle with chain issues. I played dumb and quietly walked away. In any case, I just wanted to get a feel of how much it would take to have it done at the dealer and give myself a double high five, since I'm going to check in my next oil change in a couple of weeks . All parts have arrived from FCP Euro.

[Franktea1$]

Was wondering have others looked into this and found the same result? My 2016 X5m has about 83k on it.
Thanks,
Frank

[Blue By You]

Originally Posted by Franktea1$

Was wondering have others looked into this and found the same result? My 2016 X5m has about 83k on it.
Thanks,
Frank

Had mine tightened for $0 as part of another warrantied oil-related item (gaskets) at my 50K service.

[Franktea1$]

Good to know, wondering if there is a list of what maintenance should be done at what mileage.

[Blue By You]

Originally Posted by Franktea1$

Good to know, wondering if there is a list of what maintenance should be done at what mileage.

Here you go...

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...uqc/edit#gid=0

[Franktea1$]

Good maintenance list, probably should add the oil pump chain.

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by Franktea1$

Good maintenance list, probably should add the oil pump chain.

Can that be done without removing the front of the engine? I haven't looked up the steps, just curios.

[Blue By You]

Originally Posted by Franktea1$

Good maintenance list, probably should add the oil pump chain.

Not my list but good idea

[Cbozz]

Originally Posted by Chilled

Can that be done without removing the front of the engine? I haven't looked up the steps, just curios.

you have to drain the oil, take off the belly shield, take off the oil pan and one bolt securing oil pump... super easy and takes about 20 min plus oil change time...

[CryptoHeff]

I have a late 2017 built F85, will the parts and procedure be the same as FCP is saying some of the parts might not fit? Cheers

[bad///Mechanic]

Great post. I just bought my '13 X5 M at 107k miles and planned to change the oil first thing. Luckily I saw this and decided to hold off for a week so I could order the gasket and do this too. Glad I did- wayyy out of spec, and not too difficult to correct.

I will say that I had a non-extended length 8mm male hex socket and that still had the reach to adjust the chain tension. Had to use a socket extension of course but luckily did not have to buy another tool.

B///M

[Deen435d]

Great write up! This is on my list of things to do this weekend hopefully. Currently on 83k miles.

Never done any sort of mechanical mods, so will be the first time doing these. However, BMW dealers here in Dubai are awful, and the BMW "specialists" don't have any clue what they're doing.

In terms of tightening the tensioner, is there a specific torque setting? I know it was mentioned to leave about 5-6mm of play in the chain (but just to cover my own base).

Also, any idea on the size of the Oil Filter Wrench? I'm sure I read (somewhere) that it was 16 flutes 86mm, but just wanted to confirm before buying.

Many thanks!

[Chilled]

Originally Posted by Deen435d

Great write up! This is on my list of things to do this weekend hopefully. Currently on 83k miles.

Never done any sort of mechanical mods, so will be the first time doing these. However, BMW dealers here in Dubai are awful, and the BMW "specialists" don't have any clue what they're doing.

In terms of tightening the tensioner, is there a specific torque setting? I know it was mentioned to leave about 5-6mm of play in the chain (but just to cover my own base).

Also, any idea on the size of the Oil Filter Wrench? I'm sure I read (somewhere) that it was 16 flutes 86mm, but just wanted to confirm before buying.

Many thanks!

Yep, 86mm 16Flute.
I have both,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and would recommend the cheaper JDMON because it is easier to clean up and there is no play in the socket section unlike in the Motivx. The red section has a circlip and can come out

There is not torque spec for the pump tension bolt, its based on the side to side movement of the chain.

[musa]

Per TIS, the T45 oil pump nut should be replaced (part #07129905691 for $2). I guess since we're removing only one of the 3 pump nuts, we're safe, no?

[musa]

Guys, the worst imaginable disaster for me happened last night while doing this procedure. I overtightened the oil pump T45 torx bolt until it snapped . I don't know what became of me (I guess because I was working late into the night), but I kept turning the torque wrench because it wasn't clicking, I suspect the bolt was stretching. I've been wrenching for years as a hobby and I should have known better. I feel terrible. May be I jinxed myself by asking about that bolt in the previous thread .

I've found a great video on techniques of extracting a broken bolt without damaging the thread. But now I'm wondering, other than not being able to retighten the chain in the future, the pump will still work fine because the remaining piece is holding things up? What are the risks of leaving things as is? I can tackle the extraction later.

[Chilled]

ouch, that suxs.

I would look at getting all of the old bolt out and putting in a new. Given the $$$ at stake, I would not be contemplating running this as is.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by musa

Guys, the worst imaginable disaster for me happened last night while doing this procedure. I overtightened the oil pump T45 torx bolt until it snapped . I don't know what became of me (I guess because I was working late into the night), but I kept turning the torque wrench because it wasn't clicking, I suspect the bolt was stretching. I've been wrenching for years as a hobby and I should have known better. I feel terrible. May be I jinxed myself by asking about that bolt in the previous thread .

I've found a great video on techniques of extracting a broken bolt without damaging the thread. But now I'm wondering, other than not being able to retighten the chain in the future, the pump will still work fine because the remaining piece is holding things up? What are the risks of leaving things as is? I can tackle the extraction later.

Should be a pretty easy fix, the oil pump chain tension adjustment bolt screws into a special main cap bolt (Part # 11117568243) so all you have to do is replace this main bearing cap bolt and your good to go. You will need to remove the oil pump to replace but not a bad job to do. If you don't have access to TIS for instructions on how to remove the oil pump, PM me.

As Chilled mentioned, I would not run it until you get this fixed, the oil pump will not be properly secured and the adjustment spacer can turn freely, allowing the pump chain to become loose enough to eventually fall off.

[musa]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

Should be a pretty easy fix, the oil pump chain tension adjustment bolt screws into a special main cap bolt (Part # 11117568243) so all you have to do is replace this main bearing cap bolt and your good to go. You will need to remove the oil pump to replace but not a bad job to do. If you don't have access to TIS for instructions on how to remove the oil pump, PM me.

As Chilled mentioned, I would not run it until you get this fixed, the oil pump will not be properly secured and the adjustment spacer can turn freely, allowing the pump chain to become loose enough to eventually fall off.

Thank you sophisticated Redneck. I've got access to TIS, and this video of S63 engine teardown helped a lot too (at 26:53), which incidentally also nicely demonstrates a loose chain condition .

My silly mistake offers a cautionary tale to any DIY'er - fatigue and overconfidence are one of your worst enemies .

At 62k miles, the chain was quite loose! This vehicle is mainly driven by my wife and she's mostly gentle with it. We've had it since 23k miles as CPO.

I installed new reinforcement plate bolts and tightened them with the front wheels on the ground sitting on 3 pieces of 1 inch 4x4 wood pieces on both sides (wow, I can feel the difference in handling). Please use 8mm long reach hex socket - a short socket used with extensions will get stuck and has to be wiggled out with the potential to break something. Long hex sockets are available at HarborFrieght at $15 for a set of 3mm-10mm sockets. Cbozz's trick of using zip ties to keep the gasket in place is a brilliant idea! Thank you Cbozz - made the job so easy. I used new oil pan bolts.

I can say that a chattering noise I used to hear on cold starts has disappeared. I'd add that if you can do an oil change yourself, this is well within your skill level - it's pretty straight forward but just do it when you're fresh and alert. The lower oil pan was already leaking, so for those still under warranty, I'd suggest to have that checked and presumably have the chain adjusted at the same time.


Before chain adjustment:

After chain adjustment:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/PVsqODzZErM

[Chilled]

It good to hear you got it sorted.

Interesting point on the reinforcement plate and handling. I would of though that things was a glorified bash plate.

[bmwx5er]

Originally Posted by Chilled

It good to hear you got it sorted.

Interesting point on the reinforcement plate and handling. I would of though that things was a glorified bash plate.

I'm curious about improved handling due to tightening the reinforcement plate after loading the suspension. musa can you share more details? Thanks!

[musa]

Originally Posted by bmwx5er

I'm curious about improved handling due to tightening the reinforcement plate after loading the suspension. musa can you share more details? Thanks!

There was definitely a huge improvement in handling, even my wife asked how come the vehicle feels much better as she thought all I was doing was changing the oil . I was surprised how easy it was to remove the reinforcement plate bolts - not much effort. They were obviously out of spec. Remember that the reinforcement plate is an integral part of the front suspension. I bought the new bolts from FCP EURO, so the next time I replace them will essentially be for free as they have a lifetime replacement guarantee (buy new ones, send the old ones in and get reimbursed).

Here's how I installed the bolts. First, I installed the reinforcement plate and tightened the bolts, but not yet to the required torque, just a little bit tight, like may be 30nm. Lowered the front wheels to the ground but sitting on 3 pieces of 4x4 wood 1 inch thick (I've never trusted rumps). You can buy these from Home Depot and they'll cut them for you. I then bounced the car real hard several times to settle the front suspension. I then finally tightened the bolts to the full torque specs - 56nm and then used a 1/2 inch regular wrench to add another 90 degrees swing (a quarter turn). That is the official BMW spec. Tighten them in a crisscross pattern. A breaker bar would have been better - my arms and shoulders are still aching .

The vehicle now feels so much tighter and together, felt right through the steering. Those bolts are stretch bolts so they should not be reused. If you're going to reuse them, I'd apply higher torque and stretch degrees, but again, you risk snapping them, or worse, they snap when the suspension is stressed .

[willzpatron]

Originally Posted by Oliver Queen

Anyone know a good shop in/near NY that is also aware of this? Would rather have them do it than my butter hands lol

If you're in the nyc area my dad owns a mechanic shop we specially on German vehicles angels auto mechanic 1755 Jerome ave Bronx ny 10453